Well put. If my transmission goes, I'll probably purchase a nice re-built one, but I'm not going to deal with the injector issues though since the construction will not be updated. Right now, I using NON ethanol Phillips 66 gas in my area.qship96 wrote:
I agree.....mine is gone if it develops injector or transmission problems, cant see sinking $2500-3000 for new OEM injectors that will not last as they have not improved the construction to eliminate the problem, or the value in dropping 3k into a new transmission.....and then have the injector problem rear its ugly head.....so whichever goes first{injectors or transmission} spells time for the Q retirement party
I'm glad you're still with us!AlabamaDan wrote:Well I figure I'll keep mine going. If it costs me $1k to fix this stuff then that's what 2-3 car payments on a new car, a new FORD.
Will you feel differently when you have 250,000 miles on the Q......most likely! I cant see dropping almost 3,000 for new factory injectors/labor on a car with 250,000 miles on it if the replacement injectors will face the same early death due to todays ethanol laced fuel.....time for a modern vehicle designed for todays available fuel.....now if Nissan redesigns the G50 replacement injectors to withstand the ethanol, thats a different decisionmaxnix wrote:Well, if I don't refine my onw gasoline, then hope Heath has found the injector solution. I would drop the bucks for a Nissan rebuilt in a blink if it were required.
Still can't find the G50 build quality out there for less than $70K. Not even sure I can find it at that price and the thought of insuring and feeding a $100K daily driver just down't seem right to me. Too many yahoos in beaters out there, not to mention just the condition of the highway environment. Seems like a bad risk of capital.
Probably so. But there will be no more oil by then.qship96 wrote:Will you feel differently when you have 250,000 miles on the Q......most likely!
Do the q45 in Texas get the typical rust in rear wheelwells and rear door dogleg areas? Almost every single one in Md I see has rust in these areas, including mine- only way to permanently cure it is to replace rear quarterpanels,which creates its own set of unique challenges to ensure job is done perfectly.maxnix wrote:Probably so. But there will be no more oil by then.
As long as the car has no rust, I'll keep it.
I would hope that diamond-tipped titanium laser forceps would be a standard tool in the $10,000 tool kit as well.Q45tech wrote:X-Out Extractors [<$80] are standard tools in the $10,000 tool kit.
Good Tip! SS = Stainless Steel right? Where'd ya get yours and what size?maxnix wrote:You can replace the screws with SS allen head bolts.
Well, my took kit grows little by little, but it didn't cost that much. What about this:Q45tech wrote:X-Out Extractors [<$80] are standard tools in the $10,000 tool kit.
Agreed. Besides loving the Q, that's one reason I keep it on the road, it's cheaper than a new car payment. I'm not terribly afraid of the plenum after having pulled it at the JY. Just careful. I'm also waiting on the results from that thread about how the aftermarket injectors peform.Dabizzo1 wrote:Don't be afraid to do the plenum....Any way you look at it, even replacing all 8 with brand new purple tops from Joe is STILL cheaper than a new car debt.
Fastenal, Tacoma Screw, etc.AlabamaDan wrote:
Good Tip! SS = Stainless Steel right? Where'd ya get yours and what size?
Ace Hardware. Not sure what size but bring one bolt with you to match up to a nut and you'll know.AlabamaDan wrote:Good Tip! SS = Stainless Steel right? Where'd ya get yours and what size?
I use the same screwdriver but 16" long. You can get good pressure on the screwhead with this.3Q Jay wrote:Dan- two tips on the phillips screw caps:1. use a 'fresh' #2 phillips. come to think of it, a #1 might be even better--i forget, but-----no galling on the spades!
Vise grip (locking) needle nose pliers work great also.3Q Jay wrote:2. if you still strip out the head, it is easy to put some needle nose on the periphery of the screws and 'wrench' 'em out. in fact, you might want to do this in concert with #1a anyway as a torque multiplier.
I know what you mean. I had the same issue for the longest with my #7 injector. I spotted it after my chainguides and valve covers were done. I was all out of time and couldn't take the Q the shop and have it sit for more than a day for a couple of months. I planned on getting everything done as soon as the semester was over. Miraculously, the old Hemi bounce disappeared and the car has a quiet and smooth idle that has persisted all summer. Maybe the Q-gods are affording me this chance to get my stuff together.AlabamaDan wrote:I went back to the JY last weekend and worked on that poor old Q again. I was able to drill the heads off those screws and get the little caps off, but then I couldn't get a single injector out. They were so brittle that I tore several of them up. I know that's been a problem here before. Now I'm not as worried about getting the plenum off as I am getting an injector out.
I was forced to drive my Q yesterday and it had "healed" itself. :-) I thought that perhaps I had been given some time. Alas this morning back to the same old problem.
No, time to go back to Costco or a Tier 1 Premium. Citgo, ARCO, BP, Valero are to be avoided.OnTheRoadAgain wrote:now seemingly after a tank of BP gas, the dead miss is back again.
I've otherwise been using mostly Citgo
time to make an appt I guess.
My car seems to enjoy Gulf Premium and Shell V-Power. Apparently, it's lost the taste for 92 octane. I may have to start looking around for higher than 93 soon.maxnix wrote:No, time to go back to Costco or a Tier 1 Premium. Citgo, ARCO, BP, Valero are to be avoided.
http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.htmlOnTheRoadAgain wrote:what is a "Tier 1 Premium"? and I do not have any Costcos in my area?