fog lights only

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Ilya
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xxNite wrote:all of you interested in not tearing-into your cars electronics too far might want to consider the following product available from KP Technologies
Infiniti/Nissan
FOG LIGHT CONTROLLER MODULE, ITEM#MX20, $49.99
This module interfaces directly with the Nissan/Infiniti cluster matrix to enable completely independent control of the fog light system, while still using the OEM fog light switch.
Key Features: 
 
• This module can also be used with any other cluster switch

http://www.kptechnologies.com/products.php#/12
Thank you!

Another option. I'm going to wait for the other poster to get back to us with how his friend does it, but this may be a viable option.


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mgokool
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SORRY TO DISAPPOINT EVERYONE....but I wasnt able to get it done...my so called "friend" decided not to answer my calls on saturday! I'm gunna look into the KP tech idea...in the mean time, i'll keep at it and see if he can do it sometime this week...IF HE DECIDES TO ANSWER...its hit and miss with him...

again, sorry I had to disappoint everyone...

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NycGMONyc
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I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on this fog light mod this weekend.

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Ilya
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Let us know.

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SteveTheTech
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Why not just rewire the switch to not require the headlights to be on to power the fog lights?

As a general rule of thumb people for people who are going to rewire things on their own, i always try to suggest sticking to the inside. A crappy connection on the outside will be exposed to far more environmental contaminants. I can tell you from experience that toasting an IPDM due to increased resistance (from a degraded connection in one of the controlled circuits) can quickly become a pricey repair.

Instead of using the city light (the little peanut bulb in the headlight) for power you could use that as a signal to energize a relay, which would be the smart/safest way to go about it if you want easy and reliable.

Typically DayTime running lights work by using the high beams at 50%.

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NycGMONyc
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SteveTheTech wrote:Why not just rewire the switch to not require the headlights to be on to power the fog lights?

As a general rule of thumb people for people who are going to rewire things on their own, i always try to suggest sticking to the inside. A crappy connection on the outside will be exposed to far more environmental contaminants. I can tell you from experience that toasting an IPDM due to increased resistance (from a degraded connection in one of the controlled circuits) can quickly become a pricey repair.

Instead of using the city light (the little peanut bulb in the headlight) for power you could use that as a signal to energize a relay, which would be the smart/safest way to go about it if you want easy and reliable.

Typically DayTime running lights work by using the high beams at 50%.

Would you be able to do a write up for me with so i can do it this weekend? ty

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Ilya
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SteveTheTech wrote:Why not just rewire the switch to not require the headlights to be on to power the fog lights?

As a general rule of thumb people for people who are going to rewire things on their own, i always try to suggest sticking to the inside. A crappy connection on the outside will be exposed to far more environmental contaminants. I can tell you from experience that toasting an IPDM due to increased resistance (from a degraded connection in one of the controlled circuits) can quickly become a pricey repair.

Instead of using the city light (the little peanut bulb in the headlight) for power you could use that as a signal to energize a relay, which would be the smart/safest way to go about it if you want easy and reliable.

Typically DayTime running lights work by using the high beams at 50%.
Valid points.

You can probably do this for us since you're ASE certified and know the cirtcuits of such cars pretty well. Can you hook us up? :bowrofl:

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NycGMONyc
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help us!!!

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fiveliterbeater
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SteveTheTech wrote:Why not just rewire the switch to not require the headlights to be on to power the fog lights?

As a general rule of thumb people for people who are going to rewire things on their own, i always try to suggest sticking to the inside. A crappy connection on the outside will be exposed to far more environmental contaminants. I can tell you from experience that toasting an IPDM due to increased resistance (from a degraded connection in one of the controlled circuits) can quickly become a pricey repair.

Instead of using the city light (the little peanut bulb in the headlight) for power you could use that as a signal to energize a relay, which would be the smart/safest way to go about it if you want easy and reliable.

Typically DayTime running lights work by using the high beams at 50%.


hey Steve, can you do a write up to show us how to have the low beams and high beams on at the same time? i replaced my high beams with 9004 LED's so they arent as bright as they are supposed to be (as to not annoy oncoming traffic) but how can i bypass the relay to have both the low and hig beams on? help! : )

p.s. i live in Socal and have no use really for high beams.

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fiveliterbeater wrote:
SteveTheTech wrote:Why not just rewire the switch to not require the headlights to be on to power the fog lights?

As a general rule of thumb people for people who are going to rewire things on their own, i always try to suggest sticking to the inside. A crappy connection on the outside will be exposed to far more environmental contaminants. I can tell you from experience that toasting an IPDM due to increased resistance (from a degraded connection in one of the controlled circuits) can quickly become a pricey repair.

Instead of using the city light (the little peanut bulb in the headlight) for power you could use that as a signal to energize a relay, which would be the smart/safest way to go about it if you want easy and reliable.

Typically DayTime running lights work by using the high beams at 50%.


hey Steve, can you do a write up to show us how to have the low beams and high beams on at the same time? i replaced my high beams with 9004 LED's so they arent as bright as they are supposed to be (as to not annoy oncoming traffic) but how can i bypass the relay to have both the low and hig beams on? help! : )

p.s. i live in Socal and have no use really for high beams.
They are on at the same time? My projector stays lit when I turn my highs on.

Do you mean that you want to run the highs while your steering wheel switch is set to regular low-beam operation (closest to you)?

The only thing I want is for my fogs to stay on when the highs go on because I have HID's in the fogs and don't want them turning off/on everytime I flash/use my highs. It's goin to kill the ballast/bulb. If it's possible to make the fogs DRL's or to be able to be turned on with the corner lights, that's just a plus.

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I can draw you all a theoretical picture but without a M to try it on it will be mere speculation until someone gets in there and does it. But here is what we are working with.

Image


Above is a wiring diagram from the FSM of what exactly is in the fog light circuit on your cars. The IPDM controls most of the high current function of things outside the cabin. The BCM controls lower current interior functions. Things like the illumination circuits and fog light signals require a serious amount of communication between systems. The switches are operated by varying resistance and as you can see everything works together so fooling this signal might actually be harder than I originally thought. The BOLD wires are CAN and cannot (under any circumstances) be touched altered or probed. They are physically thicker than others and are sheathed in gray, avoid them at all costs.

I wrote*(*rewrote and edited when I was a junior Nico staffer) an article about doing this on a Frontier and it was simple. Just about everything on the M runs through at least 2 computers, or over the LAN network. Any of you who do IT and networking can attest that if the packets are altered or incorrect there could be a weird ripple effect.

I personally think the M might need a complete overhaul when it comes to lights (even with HIDs, they fade and have a finite life span). At this point a relay might be the way to go. I'll work on a few things and try to get back here by the weekend. (Unless my big box from V-leds comes in :ohno: )

The M is a nice car but electrically it is fairly involved. Instead of T'ing off an accent light to run direct power to a light with higher current needs, let's work on a system that will use that signal to trigger a relay or set of relays to power auxiliary lighting. Tapping will work fine but as you can see in the pictures this is a very complex (aka expensive to fix) car it is not worth the risk imo.

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If you want to try something easy, just unplug or tape over the sun load sensor. If the car always thinks it is dark out it will keep the lights on whenever the ignition is in the ON position. This will keep the head lights on but it is really easy. :)

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ok im retarded.
:slap:
i meant if there is a way to keep the fogs on at the same time that i have the high beams on.

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fiveliterbeater wrote:ok im retarded.
:slap:
i meant if there is a way to keep the fogs on at the same time that i have the high beams on.
That's my primary focus too. It would be cool to have the fogs as DRL's, but my primary objective is too keep the fogs on no matter what.

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Leo2005
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I think all you guys need is to go to autozone and buy the headlight relay. Then connect that relay to the ignition wire and the battery. This way you will get DRL style for the fogs. Also if you are going to connect hid fog lights to high beam but high beam works as DRL at the same time then hid fogs will work only when high beam is on because drl is giving 50% power to the light and it will not be enough for hids. We had the subject how to do drl on nissan rogue (canadian style) but at the same time people were wondering about independent fog lights.

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Hey, just joined the forum...sorry to bring up an old thread but was anyone able to get the fogs to work?

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This looks promising, but I want to know is will I be able to turn the off while the car is still on (via the switch on the steering column).

So, during the day it would be set to auto. The headlights would be off, but the fog lights would be on. If I pull over somewhere and want to leave the car running, but turn the lights off, I just set the fog switch to off and that way all the lights are off (or set it from auto to off). Also, with the headlights on (either in auto or the bottom setting), if I go to high-beam my fog lights should stay on? This is probably the feature I want most. I don't want to burn my HID's out by having them turn on and off everytime I flash my highs or use my highs.
DoN_BLaZe34 wrote:Hey, just joined the forum...sorry to bring up an old thread but was anyone able to get the fogs to work?
See the quote above this one.

I don't think anyone has actually done it though.

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I finally went and posted info from this thread (schematic and link above) on my local forum (non-infiniti) to see if any of the guys there could figure it out as there are a few older guys on that forum who are quite good with fab work and other complex jobs. One guy is looking into it.

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On my car prior to the M I had it wired so the fogs worked independent of the low beams but that was with the use of a seperate switch...re-routing could work IN THEORY but the only issue I see is locating the damn relay...I don't think there is one that can easily be accessed...

If I ever get my fogs working, I'll probably buy that kit that was mentioned earlier that works through the stock switch..

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Replies from local forum:

Boxersix wrote:No real way to do it without getting into CAN programming. PCM controls the IPDM, which is CAN, and controls the fog "relay". You MAY be able to probe/tap the combo switch at the fog reference wire before the PCM(you'll need a PCM pinout diagrams or chart), and run a secondary wire with a diode to a separate sub harness(relayed/fused) that operates the fogs independently. There is no telling what body/chassis codes that may/may not trip when you disconnect the fogs from the system. I don't work on those cars at all. Only one way to find out. Pull the fog clips off the bulbs and run the car w/o the connected. If no codes, then tap reference wire and build a harness to power them.


If a code trip for no bulbs, you may be able get away with measuring the resistance of the standard bulb, and wiring 1/4 watt resistors into the clips as bulb simulators. I'm not sure how advanced that cars' body control module really is.
ninety1two40 wrote:Yeah your best bet IMO would be to rewire the fog lights and tap into the wires for the combo switch.

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joined the KPtech forum to inquire about whether or not that fog light module would work on our cars...stay tuned

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Ilya
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Did anyone ever make any progress on this?

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completely forgot about this...i was told that the kit on that site (kptech) would in fact work with our cars..my only "concern" was that the kit makes your fogs work independently so they won't turn off when you use your high beams..not an issue for anyone who doesn't use them..i was slightly turned off by that as I was hoping to have it work by themselves when on, but still turn off when the high beams are engaged in order to maintain the oem feel..he mentioned being able to wire them to do this but that's as far as i got..

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Ilya
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Oh, that's what I want! I had it like that on the Maxima. I want ALL my lights on when I'm near my home which is in the woods. The more light the better.

How much is this kit and is it hard to install?

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never bought it so i can't speak on how difficult it is to install...i believe it's $50 though

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Ilya
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Hmm, I'll have to look into this.

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pulled the trigger and ordered the kit

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Ilya
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Let me know how you make out.

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I'lve been gone for a while but now im back, let us know how the kit works out, and take pic while installing thanks


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