First Dyno Session - 420 whp

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
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HxC_Nismo
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hey darius, you should let me drive it :) ill get her into the 12's. i ran a 12.6 @110 with a 1.8 60ft with only 307rwhp. and i ran 12.0 at 114 with 1.7 60ft with only 376rwhp. and i was in the mid to low 11's with my 510rwhp setup.


Darius
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Thanks Ramius. Next time I'm out, I'll try finding that sweet spot rpm where I can dump the clutch and hopefully hook up.

danielmcn - I'm trying to keep the transmission in tact, so I don't normally power shift.

Hans - I would be happy to let you take it for a run down the track.

gawdzilla
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The rule of thumb is each tenth in the 60 is between .15 and .2 in the quarter. Probably more for horsepower oriented cars (as opposed to tq). So bench racing your 60 ft down to 1.7, is a reduction of about 6 tenths, or 1.2 seconds of your 1/4 time.

Do not power shift /speed shift your trans. Clutchless or without lifting. You will break 3rd gear easily. Trust me, been down that path. Not worth the extra tenth or less of ET if you're just having fun (not competing).

danielmcn
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If you dont want to risk your transmission for a few tenths then dont power shift. I have never blown a transmission power shifting, but have seen plenty of freinds blow theirs power shifting.

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HxC_Nismo
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gawdzilla wrote:The rule of thumb is each tenth in the 60 is between .15 and .2 in the quarter. Probably more for horsepower oriented cars (as opposed to tq). So bench racing your 60 ft down to 1.7, is a reduction of about 6 tenths, or 1.2 seconds of your 1/4 time.

Do not power shift /speed shift your trans. Clutchless or without lifting. You will break 3rd gear easily. Trust me, been down that path. Not worth the extra tenth or less of ET if you're just having fun (not competing).
lmao im on my 3rd trans right now, but my last transmission lost 4th, but the first was the 3rd gear shift fork. but hopefully my new clutch setup should get some more use out of it. but if i blow this transmission im gonna say screw it and do the awd swap to my kouki.

Ramius83
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HxC_Nismo wrote: lmao im on my 3rd trans right now, but my last transmission lost 4th, but the first was the 3rd gear shift fork. but hopefully my new clutch setup should get some more use out of it. but if i blow this transmission im gonna say screw it and do the awd swap to my kouki.
But hypothetically, that still won't cure your transmission problems as all the power still has to go through the gears/forks. You are just changing the number of drive wheels being driven by the transmission. Maybe upgraded OS Giken gear sets and billet shift forks will be easier and possibly cheaper.....

Darius
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I know this is getting way off topic from the dyno session, but since I'm upgrading the diff, I was also looking into putting in a higher ring gear as well. Does anybody have any experience or advice with this? I was looking at a 4.363 or 4.636.

Cjmartz2k
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From what? I went from 4.10's to 4.36's. Not a huge difference, but a little noticeable. For sure more wheel spin, but the pull was not night and day.

Darius
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Right now I have a 3.96 in the J30, but I'm putting the new diff in my S14 old carrier so I can still drive the car while I'm d!ck' around with the new diff setup. So while I had it open I was thinking of running a shorter gear. I don't have traction issues due to turbo lag and drag radials, so I can probably get away with shorter gearing. If not, it will give me an excuse to buy a new wheel/tire setup.

RRRRB
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how high are you revving this thing too?

Darius
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7500

ST240
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Jeeze some of you guys are posting up awful numbers :s. But Ramius and HxC_Nismo seem to have it down haha.

I could consistently run 2.0s 60' and had a best of 1.8 60' with my STOCK RB20 with 205 wide MT ET street IIs two seasons ago. Surely you can do better in your built monster :p.

If (actually not if, when, lol) I hit 400 whp with my RB30, and I can't make 11s, I will be some pissed lol.

Yellow4g63
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I say keep practicing with the drag radials your less likely to break stuff with them.

Darius
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ST240 wrote:Jeeze some of you guys are posting up awful numbers :s. But Ramius and HxC_Nismo seem to have it down haha.

I could consistently run 2.0s 60' and had a best of 1.8 60' with my STOCK RB20 with 205 wide MT ET street IIs two seasons ago. Surely you can do better in your built monster :p.

If (actually not if, when, lol) I hit 400 whp with my RB30, and I can't make 11s, I will be some pissed lol.

That being my second time at the strip, yes, I suck. LOL

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HxC_Nismo
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Ramius83 wrote:
HxC_Nismo wrote: lmao im on my 3rd trans right now, but my last transmission lost 4th, but the first was the 3rd gear shift fork. but hopefully my new clutch setup should get some more use out of it. but if i blow this transmission im gonna say screw it and do the awd swap to my kouki.
But hypothetically, that still won't cure your transmission problems as all the power still has to go through the gears/forks. You are just changing the number of drive wheels being driven by the transmission. Maybe upgraded OS Giken gear sets and billet shift forks will be easier and possibly cheaper.....
i would love to get some billet shift forks, but unfortunatly no one makes em for the rb trannys and the os giken gear set is short gears which means my top speed would only be like 140mph instead of 180mph-200mph. plus i never broke any gears ever, i lost the 4th gear SYNCHRO in my last trans(1st trans rebuilt), and broke a shift fork on my first trans. but now that i have a triple mini disc clutch it should be alot less harsh on the shift forks so i should get alot more life out of my trans now. dont worry bud i got this, ive been in the RB game since 2006. :chuckle:

RRRRB
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HxC_Nismo wrote:hey darius, you should let me drive it :) ill get her into the 12's. i ran a 12.6 @110 with a 1.8 60ft with only 307rwhp. and i ran 12.0 at 114 with 1.7 60ft with only 376rwhp. and i was in the mid to low 11's with my 510rwhp setup.
what kinda dyno? pretty conservative numbers for the trap speeds

Darius
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Super Flow. Yeah it is known to be relatively conservative.

RRRRB
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that comment was intended for HXC_Nismo.. unless you guys dynoed on the same dyno, if so pardon me :)

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HxC_Nismo
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RRRRB wrote:
HxC_Nismo wrote:hey darius, you should let me drive it :) ill get her into the 12's. i ran a 12.6 @110 with a 1.8 60ft with only 307rwhp. and i ran 12.0 at 114 with 1.7 60ft with only 376rwhp. and i was in the mid to low 11's with my 510rwhp setup.
what kinda dyno? pretty conservative numbers for the trap speeds
dyno dynamics, and the 12.0 et @ 114mph was with only 376rwhp on stock twins maxed out. with my 510rwhp setup i was trapping 122-125mph

ST240
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HxC_Nismo wrote: but now that i have a triple mini disc clutch it should be alot less harsh on the shift forks so i should get alot more life out of my trans now.
How does a multi disc clutch make it easier on the transmission? Did you have a single disc puck clutch in there before? That's what I'm running behind my RB30 on my RB20 trans. Lawl. My guess is bye bye to that thing this summer.

Booztd 3
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Havent checked in, in a while.....here's the dealio

I'd run those MT ET Street Radials at 20psi. Taking them any lower wont do you any good, as they're stiff enough you wont get any sidewall flex to aid your traction issue. Running anymore and obviously you're stiffening them up - not the way to go if traction is the goal.

I'd honestly play around with launching at higher RPM and more boost......I'm sure most of you have seen my videos....but it 'aint no thang' for me to line up....peg the 2 step at around 5500-6000 @ 20some psi and dump the clutch. Tuning your launch is definitely something that takes time.

I will say, that after being at the track on BOTH kinds of M/T's.......I'd glady run the Bias-Ply's any day over the Radials. At my levels, the Radials are just too much shock to the rear end when I dump the clutch. Running my Bias-Plys at around 13psi has proven to be the most reliable, while offering relatively good traction.

I followed the "go big or go home" policy on the radials one of the first times at the track on my BW 66mm turbo, and cut my best 60' times ever (mid 1.4's) 4 passes later I broke the god damn output shaft in the rear end.

I went back to the drawing board with the bias-plys and after breaking a few input shafts @ 11psi, I bumped pressure up to 13psi and I didnt break a single output shaft all year, last year.....with real consistent 1.50-1.55. I'll sacrifice the extra tenth on the big end to be able to drive it on the trailer at the end of the day after 10 passes....

Also, you'll wanna factor your gear ratios, and tires sizes, with how you're crossing the traps. I cross the traps around 7300rpm....ultimately I'd like to be a little higher in the R's crossing the line, but they do not offer a tire size/gear combo that would get me any closer. Now if you were crossing the line at 5000rpm ..you'd want to revisit your tire size (easiest way to manipulate the RPMs in my opinion) We have enough ways of manipulating the launch (tire pressure, RPMs, boost, etc) that we shouldnt need to worry about gear ratios in concern to only the launch

Darius
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Andy that is some solid information! I realize it took a lot of your time and parts to establish those guidelines and thank you for that. I know it gives me a lot to think about before taking another trip to the track. :dblthumb:

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ST240 wrote:
HxC_Nismo wrote: but now that i have a triple mini disc clutch it should be alot less harsh on the shift forks so i should get alot more life out of my trans now.
How does a multi disc clutch make it easier on the transmission? Did you have a single disc puck clutch in there before? That's what I'm running behind my RB30 on my RB20 trans. Lawl. My guess is bye bye to that thing this summer.
i had a single disc spec stage 3+ clutch on my last setup, but the Mini mult-disc clutches from what I hear helps reduce your chances of breaking shift forks. just google it and research it yourself.

RRRRB
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your not im compatibility view, any updates on the car? tune on more boost yet?

Darius
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RRRRB wrote:your not im compatibility view, any updates on the car? tune on more boost yet?
Thanks for the tip!

I haven't had time to do a whole lot with the car. I am hoping to get the KAAZ diff installed and broken-in before snow flies. Last year it snowed 9 inches on October 9th, so my time is limited. This week I am dedicated to at least getting it assembled.

As far as tuning goes, I'm thinking of upgrading to E85 and getting it running on the Z32 MAF. Then, replace the Z32 MAF with a big MAF and retune. I don't want to spend the money to convert from MAF to MAP after upgrading the fuel system.

RRRRB
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Darius wrote:
RRRRB wrote:your not im compatibility view, any updates on the car? tune on more boost yet?
Thanks for the tip!

I haven't had time to do a whole lot with the car. I am hoping to get the KAAZ diff installed and broken-in before snow flies. Last year it snowed 9 inches on October 9th, so my time is limited. This week I am dedicated to at least getting it assembled.

As far as tuning goes, I'm thinking of upgrading to E85 and getting it running on the Z32 MAF. Then, replace the Z32 MAF with a big MAF and retune. I don't want to spend the money to convert from MAF to MAP after upgrading the fuel system.

np my computer was doing this for a while after i downloaded a new internet explorer...only this site too... weirid

I wish i could upgrade to E85, if you have the option dooooo it... a guy here is making 850whp on a stock sleeve K series honda motor with e85... crazyness


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