First Dyno Session - 420 whp

[RRRRB]

what kinda torque did it make? graph?

[RustspecS13]

I know you were there to fine tune, but did you do any pulls with out touching the tune? Why did you mess with the basics of a tune thats been at pretty high boost level on the street with good AFRs? I'm not sure I'm getting the problem. IE bad/small injectors or a incorrect tune/settings..

~Alex

[Darius]

I know you were there to fine tune, but did you do any pulls with out touching the tune? Why did you mess with the basics of a tune thats been at pretty high boost level on the street with good AFRs? I'm not sure I'm getting the problem. IE bad/small injectors or a incorrect tune/settings..

~Alex

Steve Kan is a pretty methodical guy and doesn't know what he's walking into with anybody's tune, so he goes through all the settings to check that they are reasonable before gradually adding boost, fuel, and timing. He was doing the same with my tune when he saw the strange injector settings and adjusted them back to levels that were realistic (i.e. the car could idle at an AFR=14.7 instead of 12.5). Any decent tuner will do this to cover his own a$$ and protect his reputation. I respect him for this.

I'm more apt to believe the DW injector settings are whack than what Steve was doing was wrong. Maybe conservative, but not wrong. I could throw my old tune back on there because it obviously puts down more power, but I was never comfortable with some of the random knock spikes I was getting under full boost. After thinking about this, I was probably running the ragged edge of blowing the motor and that's not a good place to be. I will get it sorted out this winter with E85 and a big-a$$ fuel pump. Come next spring I will be looking for a "big-boy" tune and be gunning for 700 hp

[RRRRB]

wish i had E85 available...

[RustspecS13]

Ah ok, I didn't know about the idle AFRs or knock spikes. Sounds like you need some IDC2200's.

~Alex

[Darius]

Here are my injector calcs based on the fuel injector calculators for 750HP, BSFC of 0.60, baseline fuel pressure of 43.5psi and 750HP crank HP = 933 cc/min x 1.47 for ethanol = 1371 cc/min injectors.

Injector Dynamics 1600cc/min makes a high-impedence top-feed injector, but a set will run nearly $1,400. Youch! Time to go look at the low-impedence resistor box thread

http://www.injectordynamics.com/ID1600.html

[RustspecS13]

Just find their source for them, I believe they just rebadge OEM injectors. Like the new Titan VK56 uses denso 550cc injectors in that new style you linked a pic of. A friend of mine just googled them and found them for like $40-50 each brand new from a non renamed supplier. The IDC2200's are just Denso injectors for natural gas. They aren't any where near $100+ per injector.

not paying middle man markup FTW!

~Alex

[Darius]

No doubt. There's no way I'm paying that much for those injectors. ID has nothing to do with the manufacturing of the injectors they sell.

Here's one of the later dyno charts as we were playing with the VTC disengagement rpm. I think we raised it up to about 5500 rpm from the stock setting of 4700 rpm.




WTF NICO?! Why aren't any images loading in these threads??

[l0nestar]

Images are loading fine..

[Darius]

I wonder if it is a setting on my work computer because most of people's avatars and signature pics are x'd out and my embedded pics are just little "thinking circles". Anybody have any ideas about this?

[meet07]

Here are my injector calcs based on the fuel injector calculators for 750HP, BSFC of 0.60, baseline fuel pressure of 43.5psi and 750HP crank HP = 933 cc/min x 1.47 for ethanol = 1371 cc/min injectors.

Injector Dynamics 1600cc/min makes a high-impedence top-feed injector, but a set will run nearly $1,400. Youch! Time to go look at the low-impedence resistor box thread

http://www.injectordynamics.com/ID1600.html

Dont know how true it is but ive heard that low impedence injectors idle better than high impedence injectors when there that large. 1600cc's are big. Ill probably be getting the same thing next year as soon as I sort out the kinks for this year.

[S14-NEO]

hey darius, did you ever reconfigure the power going to your fuel pump...im curious if it solved your issue

[Darius]

Not yet. I was going to do it but work took over life and then I went on vacation to AZ for a week. It is getting done tonight when I get home though.

[Darius]

I wired up a relay an 14 gauge wiring to the fuel pump plug. I was too lazy and too short on time to pull the pump assembly. Took a pull to about 6500 and it was running rich...10.7 AFR. Gotta tune it tomorrow.

[Yellow4g63]

That was what I did to mine too.

[S14-NEO]

10.7, nice!!....definately looks like a step in the right dircection......hehe

[Cjmartz2k]

Good s***, glad it got fixed.








Moar powa her u cum!!!!!!!!!!

[Darius]

I still want to have a talk with DW about the injector lag/latency settings. There could be more potential there if I can tweak those and still get it to idle at 14.7 AFR.

[l0nestar]

Good 2 hear.

I have a nice 30A Hella relay with pigtail just waiting to be installed.. but I absolutely detest working with the fuel lines to the pump frame. If / when I rewire my pump, I will be redoing *all* of the wiring from the main plug in the trunk.

[Darius]

I took it to the drag strip today for an event put on by a couple local drag racing forums and I didn't run the times I expected to.

First, I suck at drag racing and have only done it successfully once before so go easy on me. Second, I lined up against a C6 vette my first run and spun through 1&2 because I didn't get a good burnout on the MT DR's and my tire pressure was too high (35 psi). Anyway, I kept up with him and thought I must have at least run a 12 second quarter. Nope, 13.74 @ 114! I was shocked because I was expecting to easily get into the 12's with this setup. I came to find out later that his car was pretty beat and he had just bought it used.

By my 7th run, I was getting comfortable doing burnouts but still could not muster anything better than a 13.36 @ 112. I partially attribute it to the J30 VLSD starting to give up the ghost. My burnouts were one tire at a time. One tire would get hot and stick then the other tire would spin and it would keep oscillating back and forth. I have a KAAZ 1.5 way in the garage waiting to go back into the S14 diff housing, but I'm wondering if I should look into putting shorter gearing in it? Anybody have experience/advice with this? Booztd3?

[Yellow4g63]

What were your 60' times? did u lower the psi in the drag radials or kept them @ 35psi? prob should have started off @ 20psi and take little out each pass till you see a negative effect then go back to that Psi. How long were you holding the front brake when doing the burn out?

[Darius]

My 60's were horrible. My best was 2.28. After the first pass, I took the tires down to 16 psi and that helped but it only shaved about 0.4 off of the ET.

I have a line lock on the front brakes and the first few burnouts were not smoky. I'm wondering if it has something to do with the tires never being heat cycled like that before. After that, they smoked easier but my buds were still telling me that it was burning out one tire at a time due to the diff.

An anti-lag has been on my wish list for a while, but I still don't think that would get me into the low 12's...

[RustspecS13]

Wow, my Z31 ran a best of 13.45@104. VG30ET running 10-11psi, stock turbo. My 60ft was 1.89 best, usually 1.95ish-2.05 area. I had full traction in 1st with 225/50/15 autox slicks (kumho v700's) and a nice burnout. But also have a CLSD stock too.

Your mph seems good for deep in the 12's. Get your 60 foot down. Install that diff and make sure those tires can hook up. What boost were you running? the same when it did 420whp?

What was your reaction time? My best was a .850ish, most were .9-.95.

Any way, thats just my view, I've only been to the 1/4 once, and made 9 passes. So I'm pretty new but I know where your coming from..

~Alex

[RRRRB]

my best pass with my car (s14) was a 12.5 at 114mph this was on 275 kumo street tires

with 412whp and 19-20psi on my 3076r

[Ramius83]

I always liked using true slicks at the strip. Set tire pressures to 10-15 psi, launch at 5000 RPMs or so and go, no spinning. I was running at 375 RWHP on my RB26 and hit a best of 11.8 @ 121mph. Just keep practicing and get those 60' times down and you will be golden. Those C6s may be more powerful, but if you can get out of the box faster and quicker, you will beat them. There is no reason why you can't be in the very low 12s to high 11s with that set-up.

[Darius]

I totally agree with you guys. It should be faster, but even if I shave 0.4 seconds off of my best 60-foot and cut a 1.8, I am still only running a 13.0 ET, right? Or does a quicker 60-foot magnify itself in the overall ET? The diff played a large role in lack of traction off the line, but I still feel like it is lagging for the first 60-feet until the turbo spools.

It ran a 14.7 @ 94 mph with a stock turbo and all-season tires, so after upgrading EVERYTHING I thought it would pick up more than 1.5 seconds...

BTW, reaction time is not included in the ET.

[Ramius83]

I totally agree with you guys. It should be faster, but even if I shave 0.4 seconds off of my best 60-foot and cut a 1.8, I am still only running a 13.0 ET, right? Or does a quicker 60-foot magnify itself in the overall ET? The diff played a large role in lack of traction off the line, but I still feel like it is lagging for the first 60-feet until the turbo spools.

It ran a 14.7 @ 94 mph with a stock turbo and all-season tires, so after upgrading EVERYTHING I thought it would pick up more than 1.5 seconds...

BTW, reaction time is not included in the ET.

What diff do you have? What RPM are you launching at? What RPM are you shifting at? What are the drag radial size? Etc etc etc....

[Darius]

I totally agree with you guys. It should be faster, but even if I shave 0.4 seconds off of my best 60-foot and cut a 1.8, I am still only running a 13.0 ET, right? Or does a quicker 60-foot magnify itself in the overall ET? The diff played a large role in lack of traction off the line, but I still feel like it is lagging for the first 60-feet until the turbo spools.

It ran a 14.7 @ 94 mph with a stock turbo and all-season tires, so after upgrading EVERYTHING I thought it would pick up more than 1.5 seconds...

BTW, reaction time is not included in the ET.

What diff do you have? What RPM are you launching at? What RPM are you shifting at? What are the drag radial size? Etc etc etc....

Diff is a J30 VLSD
Launching at about 4000 rpm and feathering the clutch so it doesn't bog.
Shifting at 7400 rpm. Redline is set at 7500.
DR's are 265/40/18 (@16 psi)

[Ramius83]

Diff is a J30 VLSD
Launching at about 4000 rpm and feathering the clutch so it doesn't bog.
Shifting at 7400 rpm. Redline is set at 7500.
DR's are 265/40/18 (@16 psi)

1. Diff is/was close to mine, I am/was using a Z32 diff.
2. I was launching at 5000 RPMs to avoid having to feather the clutch and to not bog down. Having to feather the clutch to not bog down is loosing you time and acceleration. I would launch higher up in the RPMs and find that sweet spot where no clutch is needed, maximum hook-up, and no tire spinning.
3. Shift points fine.......
4. I still like using slicks. Pretty much fool-proof in our power range. You can still spin out DRs, and are much harder to use when trying to find the sweet spot with them. Slicks are pretty much launch at what-ever so you don't bog down......I was using M&H Racemaster 24.5x8.0x15 slicks on a set of Kosei 15x7 lightweight wheels at 12 psi or so.

I feel that if you can get your 60' around 1.6-1.7 or so, then yes, it will make the rest of your run better. And yes, the quicker the 60' foot with the more traction and hook-up, magnifies the rest of the run. More time in full power, more traction = faster ETs. Just keep practicing on those grudge/tune nights.

[danielmcn]

How are you shifting? Do you keep your foot pegged and power shift, or do you lift shift? If you lift shift, you could scrub off about 2-3 tenths (maybe more/less) by power shifting. If your not power shifting, be carefull if you start it can be hell on the drivetrain.