That isn't entirely true.I bought my fidanza with a competition clutch. My fidanza came out to $250 shipped.....Fidanza is a far superior product with it's friction plate hands down.When a clutch disc rubs against aluminum it's like wood onto sand paper, and it warps twice as fast as steel.The clutch will only use half it's life span on a warped aluminum friction plate.Fidanza is a true 11LBs by the way.....eazye2000 wrote: Fidanza cost 300 shipped and the replaceable plate is about 60-70 bux each time you replace it.
Different size shapes of the same weight have nothing to do with it.Why do people buy big brake set up's to stop earlier and to keep brake pads cooler????I think leverage comes into play.As far as fly wheels are concerned that are lighter in mass, it takes away weighted inertia which increases aspiration at higher RPM's showing a small gain in peak power. It also allows for better engine control when downshifting and braking. Whether or not the weight of the majority of the mass is placed to the center or rim of the fly wheel doesn't matter it still the same over all weight that drives a transmission which transfers inertia/power to the drive shaft that is no more than 2" in diameter last I recall. The majority of power loss/degradation from the drive train comes from the drive shaft/transmission anyways, not the fly wheel.Edub1 wrote:
Spin a 6" metal disk that weighs 2lbs and you can stop it easily with your hand. Then spin a 2lb bike wheel at the same speed and grab the tire - plan on a broken hand.
What aluminum friction plate are you talking about?Bigvinnie wrote:When a clutch disc rubs against aluminum it's like wood onto sand paper, and it warps twice as fast as steel.The clutch will only use half it's life span on a warped aluminum friction plate.
So I guess what you are telling me is that the F1 is made of steel,chromoly, not aluminum...Right????? From the pics it looks as if the entire flywheel is aluminum.If that is the case it would be bad.....eazye2000 wrote:
What aluminum friction plate are you talking about?
Your comparison to brakes is incorrect.Bigvinnie wrote:Different size shapes of the same weight have nothing to do with it.Why do people buy big brake set up's to stop earlier and to keep brake pads cooler????I think leverage comes into play.As far as fly wheels are concerned that are lighter in mass, it takes away weighted inertia which increases aspiration at higher RPM's showing a small gain in peak power. It also allows for better engine control when downshifting and braking. Whether or not the weight of the majority of the mass is placed to the center or rim of the fly wheel doesn't matter it still the same over all weight that drives a transmission which transfers inertia/power to the drive shaft that is no more than 2" in diameter last I recall. The majority of power loss/degradation from the drive train comes from the drive shaft/transmission anyways, not the fly wheel.
Yes it will search through other forums for a set up known as the "white rabbit","white bunny".280zxflywheel, with a NAPSZ clutch it's the big bang for your buck combo. Biggamehit just did it in the club240 forums.The only thing you really need to match up with on the clutch combo's is teeth and spline, then match clutch size, to plate. Most FS5W71c transmissions use the same spline. 280zx's use an FS5w71B transmission, but the spline seems to match.Reno wrote:stupid question... will a 280zx flywheel match up with our ka's? cause i seen a fidanza 280zx flywheel @ 11 lbs w00hoo 11 lbs and 240mm...
So guess I don't need big brakes to stop earlier then, Greg.Beazle wrote:
Your comparison to brakes is incorrect.
Greg
Don't need to be an expert, but the concept you are grabbing is correct in my mind.The reason why people step up to a whitebunny set up is to grab more of the torque. Basically the clutch and flywheel combo of the white bunny does less work causing probably more than likely less friction. Then again I'm not an engineer or expert, but that is what I've been told from professionals. A larger diameter clutch essentially does less work. Just as a larger diameter disc brakes do less work.Sorry to thread jack I want to stay updated on this thread.......xTearsFallForeverx wrote: a larger flywheel clutch combo will turn a bit slower, it may be able to transfer more torque though. i dont know.. im not an expert. just my $0.02
Not sure what you are talking about when you say less work. The further away from the center of the flywheel the edge of the clutch is the more leverage (cant spell) you have on it. Just like when tighting a bolt......you can push on the middle of the wrench or the end of the wrench. It is all about surface area and leverage(once agian cant spell).Bigvinnie wrote:
Don't need to be an expert, but the concept you are grabbing is correct in my mind.The reason why people step up to a whitebunny set up is to grab more of the torque. Basically the clutch and flywheel combo of the white bunny does less work causing probably more than likely less friction. Then again I'm not an engineer or expert, but that is what I've been told from professionals. A larger diameter clutch essentially does less work. Just as a larger diameter disc brakes do less work.Sorry to thread jack I want to stay updated on this thread.......
I beleive you are absolutly correct sir.sil80drifter wrote:It looks to me on the pix that yo can see a dividing line between where the friction surface stops and the rest of the flywheel surface beginssil80
TheOne wrote:hurry up and test it out!, am debatin wether or not i should buy 1 of those!.
Overall opinion: This is a decent deal. There was a dividing line between the 'friction' surface, but I couldn't tell you if it was of a different hardness, treated, or whatever. If you wanted to use a 'white bunny' special type setup, the company does offer the 280zx flywheel just like this one that you could use for the larger friction area. I'm gonna go put a few more miles on her today and get it that much closer to being broke in.eazye2000 wrote:Ok, ok. I've gotten a few e-mails on this subject, so I might as well post on it.
The car is running with the stock ECU, SAFC-II, and my AEM Wideband. I've got it down to the best I can right now, and she's still being broke in with a total of 10 miles on her. Engine was totally gone through and everything beefed up, etc etc.As far as the clutch/flywheel goes, it feels very snappy/strong. I've not been able to get on it that much, but anything over 1/3 - 1/2 throttle will break the tires loose. Same setup as before, but with lower compression and everything now. The car in general seems more responsive with the underdrive/lightened crank pulley and the flywheel along with the whole rotating assembly that got balanced.
No I'm not better than anyone else but when I start to see comments that you saved money when compared to a Fidanza flywheel that is a pretty bold comment.Not to mention it doesn't at all determine the life of the clutch.So you think you save money buying a chromoly over a aluminum flywheel?I would like to see what the results look like over a 1 year hard driving experience, guaranteed it isn't saving money in the long run.I just speculate in the best interest of the consumer, and I am entitled to that. This is why we are in the forums to show truth from BullSH$T.eazye2000 wrote:Bigvinnie, you're just better than the rest of us, that's all.
Bingo! Bigger clutches, more surface area, easier to grip added torque to the wheels.nelson8708 wrote:
It is all about surface area and leverage(once agian cant spell).
Ok, so I'm a BullSh|tter..Bigvinnie wrote:I just speculate in the best interest of the consumer, and I am entitled to that. This is why we are in the forums to show truth from BullSH$T.
I never called you a bullsh$ter, fact is you didn't care to research deep enough about there friction plate... So do you know WTF you are buying into?eazye2000 wrote:
Ok, so I'm a BullSh|tter..
Like I said before, I'm not trying to get into a pissing contest. And I'm also trying to weed out the OPINIONS of people who have NEVER dealt with the so called 'knock off' companies.
It's 5 carbons short of the density that a fidanza flywheel friction disc uses.The last 2 numbers of the 4 digit number represents it carbon make up.Your not saving any money compared to a fidanza, that also doesn't make it a better deal!!!!!!!! That is a FACT....Grip Force wrote:
Made from 4140 chrome-moly steel
F1 RACING StreetLite Chrome-Moly Flywheels are made from 100% solid one-piece billet chrome moly steel.
Modified by Bigvinnie at 4:06 PM 3/26/2007Wikipedia wrote:
The first two digits indicate the alloy group, and the last two digits indicate the carbon content in hundreths of a percent by weight.
Nope. Physics, man. Surface area only matters when you're talking about heat dissipation. "Grip", otherwise known as friction matters only to the friction coefficient of the surface materials.Bigvinnie wrote:
Bingo! Bigger clutches, more surface area, easier to grip added torque to the wheels.
Friction causes heat so whats your point.AeonTorpor wrote:
Nope. Physics, man. Surface area only matters when you're talking about heat dissipation. "Grip", otherwise known as friction matters only to the friction coefficient of the surface materials.