Ethan's Thread.

[z32pilot62]

EGR delete, welded my own plenum block-off plates: freeish
AIV delete: free
Carbon Canister delete: free
PRVR delete: free

Removing 80% of useless future vacuum leak issues: priceless

[es.biggs]

true story man.

I just got done putting the trans in with some help and also installing the driveshaft and starter and slave and finishing up the emissions crap deletes (vacuum routing and capping)

I'm so exhausted. Car will be up and running soon hopefully. I know I keep saying I'll upload pics but I jus never get around to it. I will get some in tho.

Felt good to sit in the car and pretend to drive again haha

Good night everybody

[z32pilot62]

Before you know it you will be driving it for realz again. Keep it up and I guarantee you will appreciate your Z that much more!

[es.biggs]

Used the wire brush attachment on my drill for the throttle bodies...turned out nicer than I expected. Easy alternative to paint, and cheaper than powdercoating


Thought this was a cool picture




Luk Pro Gold clutch. I ran out of monies for a really nice one :/ these have good reviews though so we will see!


Transmission is in, that's my brother's arm putting the starter on. God bless him and my other buddy Ric again for them coming out to help!

[marty1mc]

When it comes time to start that baby, you may want to prime your oil pump first. I used this little rig that was written up on TT.net. It worked well. I didn't crank the engine while I pulled vacuum, just let the vacuum do the work. Once I got oil in the hose, I pulled the rig, filled up the oil filter and then cranked for 30 sec. At least I wasn't spinning the crank while trying to pull oil from the pan...Just a thought.

http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.as ... dtSearch=3

[bartZ32tt]

Just did aiv and prvr deletes too! It's amazing how much crap is left behind. Keep up the good work!

[es.biggs]

Thanks!

Marty, I was actually just about to research on how to prime it. This looks like it will work. I think I'll so it just like that, using the vacuum rather than spinning the crank. I don't want to move it any more than I have to. I'll be sure to use an actual gauge rather than the stock OPSU for the first 20 minutes of this engine's life When you removed the rig, you cranked it without the CAS plugged in right? That was just to build pressure before you started right? Was the oil pressure up when you started the car immediately?

[LIBRILZ]

Thanks!

Marty, I was actually just about to research on how to prime it. This looks like it will work. I think I'll so it just like that, using the vacuum rather than spinning the crank. I don't want to move it any more than I have to. I'll be sure to use an actual gauge rather than the stock OPSU for the first 20 minutes of this engine's life When you removed the rig, you cranked it without the CAS plugged in right? That was just to build pressure before you started right? Was the oil pressure up when you started the car immediately?

I wanna know this too.

[marty1mc]

So put my air compressor to my bad cylinder - using the spark plug fitting from my compression tester and a tire inflator gauge from sears, with a cutoff valve to keep air from flowing back out through the air lines. I could hear air escaping from the exhaust, and it sounded like some was going through the crankcase.

I've never done this before so I'm not sure if the noise through the crankcase was normal or not.

There is definitely some exhaust valve leakage going on though. I don't know what to think about the piston/rings.

Air is leaking from this cylinder so fast that I can't even build any pressure in it. I'm applying 125 psi and it's not even holding anything.

I also found a NA motor, said compression is supposed to be about 170 in all 6 cylinders, from a wrecked 2+2 that was owned by an older guy. A seemingly trustworthy member of 3ZC is parting the car out (he knew the guy from his local Z club) and wants $800 for it. He said the 120k was done right before the car was rear ended. The reason I say this guy seems trustworthy is because he has a trader rating of 76 over there (I think that means he has bought/sold 76 items) Does this seem like a decent deal?

I still can't decide if I want to do a motor swap or put new heads on. With the condition of the piston in question, I'm leaning towards a whole swap. It's a little more though What would you guys do?

That's the going rate for a good shape motor. Do you know how many miles are on it? Mine had 150k on it when I pulled it and it had 187/cyl and didn't vary one lb. Shame I wasn't doing much posting on this forum, I sold it for $200 just to get rid of it. I had done 120k about 4yrs and 15k miles, plus it had a leaky intake cam gear (not the cam seal, but the actual gear.). It only needed that and a new timing belt since it had been 4 yrs.

If it is in good shape, I would go for it. It probably hasn't been beat, so it has good odds of lasting.

[es.biggs]

I woulda bought it but I didn't have the money at the time lol

[z32pilot62]

Whats the ETA on the first 50 mile oil change bro? Rooting for ya to not pull a daxnismo since it seems that you have done your h/w and did this right!

[es.biggs]

Right now, because of work and my lack of time to get over there, I'm shooting for Sunday

I can't get the AIV pipes off of my exhaust its ridiculous. Might have to cut them off and weld them shut, i dunno. Guess I'll have to deal with an exhaust leak until I bring it to a muffler shop!

[z32pilot62]

I had the same problem with mine, I just cut them off about 2 inches from the nut and then pounded them flat with a hammer then folded them over and repeated. They have been like this for 8 months and have not had any issues with leaks. It would not pass an inspection this way but lucky for me I dont have inspections.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

Right now, because of work and my lack of time to get over there, I'm shooting for Sunday

I can't get the AIV pipes off of my exhaust its ridiculous. Might have to cut them off and weld them shut, i dunno. Guess I'll have to deal with an exhaust leak until I bring it to a muffler shop!

PB Blaster them a few times over a couple of days, cut the end off as close to the bolt as possible, impact deep socket.

[es.biggs]

s*** that woulda worked. I probably used half a can of blaster over a few days on them, and I tried wrenching them off but they are round as the sun now. Any ideas? I'm beat. Tried a big a** monkey wrench after they rounded, no luck. It's amazing how soft the metal is on those :/

I might be able to find a deep socket bolt extractor that can fit on my impact. Might also cost me like $40 :/

I might have to try your method, z32pilot. That's a lot better than leaving them open.

[es.biggs]

ZEBA LIVES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[LIBRILZ]

Nice man! Hows she running?

[z32pilot62]

Hes still driving....

[es.biggs]

Didn't get to take it out of the garage unfortunately...I wish I woulda put on the front bumper cover and all the stupd splash guards before starting the engine. It was a very anti-climactic way to do it lol. Get if fired up and sounding great and everything is all green. THEN spend 3 hours putting the rest of the car together.

hahah

oh well. Tomorrow she goes out for a spin

The method Marty used to prime the pump worked perfectly. I had my assistant (my amazing gf) crank the starter over for about 8 seconds to prime it, then maybe another 8-10 to get oil pressure before starting.

There is one small (hopefully) problem - I noticed smoke coming from the engine bay. From the looks and smell I think it is oil. Seemed like the back of the engine and I kinda think it's the header-cat seal. I used a metal crush ring, just like what came off of it. Maybe it didn't seat right. If that's the case then I'm not even worried because I know it's going to burn oil during the break in. Anyways, I made a video of it to see if the smoke was even visible but I don't think it is. But just so you guys can hear the beautiful sound of my voice and my car lol:



It was a blackberry so the picture and SQ probably suck.

Other than the smoke, so far everything worked great during the 20 minutes it was running in the garage. Didn't find any leaks, ran smooth as butter - no strange noises after the lifters quit being stubborn...timing, oil pressure, water temps were all dead on. Guys, it feels SO good - every car guy deserves this feeling of accomplishment. I just gotta hope and pray I don't pull a daxnismo now

[Chattzx]

nice job on getting her back together and no one will EVER have worse luck than DAX hahaha

[z32pilot62]

When I put my motor in my car it smoked a little from the same area for about 2 days but then it finally went away. You put headers on and not the factory manifolds right? It could be just the protective coating burning off? If it keeps doing it I would investigate further but if it stops then your good to go bro.

[es.biggs]

I put the factory ones on :/ I just plain ran out of money man

[BigTDogg (MA)]

I put the factory ones on :/ I just plain ran out of money man

It happens eventually, that's why the car is never "done", there's always the one next thing I would do if I had extra money

Did you get the AIVs out yet? If you have enough tube left you could also crimp and roll as someone said.

No plans for testpipes? Or are they on the to-do list.

[es.biggs]

TPs are def on the to do list, along with another catback. This one sits crooked on the pass side from the back - now that I had to install it I know why. It doesn't line up with the cat pipes at all!!! To line them up it took three people and we had to loosen the three bolts holding the cat pipe on the header. One to pull the right side of the catback down, one to push the cat pipe up, and one to put the bolts in.

Ridiculous man!

I just cut the AIV pipes down, folded them over and rolled them and pounded them with my mini sledge

[red 300zx]

Mine was smoking and smelled like a** for a while after getting it all back togather, i wouldn't worry 'bout it.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

It doesn't line up with the cat pipes at all!!! To line them up it took three people and we had to loosen the three bolts holding the cat pipe on the header. One to pull the right side of the catback down, one to push the cat pipe up, and one to put the bolts in.

What kind of exhaust do you have, out of curiosity?

No cats on an NA is a VERY loud exhaust. I was mostly asking because it would be a moot point about the AIV valves if you had or were getting TPs.

[z32pilot62]

What kind of exhaust do you have, out of curiosity?

No cats on an NA is a VERY loud exhaust. I was mostly asking because it would be a moot point about the AIV valves if you had or were getting TPs.

Before I got my 2+2 I was wanting to get just the resonated TP's, non-resonated H/X pipe, and a set of hypers. Now that I have my 2+2 and it has factory cats with a Magnaflow X-flow in the place of the H-pipe and nothing else it is super loud and very droney. Especially in the 60-65 mph range, it really fatigues you when driving just how much drone there is. My plan now is to put resonated TP's, leave the X-flow, and put a single exit on the passenger side. That should get the drone down to an acceptable level and sound pretty good.

[es.biggs]

I have the older style labree, with square quad tips. Might just be the H-pipe that is out of whack...might be the cat pipes. I don't know lol

I have been driving this thing all day guys it feels amazing. Been showing it off to all my buddies hahaha. The smoking from the bay has decreased a lot...I think it was old PB blaster residue on the headers, etc. I really haven't noticed any smoke from my exhaust anymore either. Been doing a bit of engine braking to help seat the rings. I'm gonna go take it for another spin and do the 20-40 mile oil change later tonite!

Be back later with a video of pulling it out of the garage!

[LIBRILZ]

You used to ford motor mounts right? did they need any modifications done to work? oh and where'd you get them?

[z32pilot62]

You used to ford motor mounts right? did they need any modifications done to work? oh and where'd you get them?

You have to drill the mounts attached to the engine out because the bolts on the Ford mounts are 1/2" and the nissan is like 10-11mm. You also have to make the frame hole wider to accommodate this problem as well. Not too hard to do just use a drill for the motor mounts and a file/die-grinder for the frame.