Engine Problems it will start but wont run. PLEASE READ HELP!!!

[1990QOwner]

Sounds to me like some sort of an electrical problem. Try re-setting the electrical system. Do this by disconnecting one of the battery terminals for 30 min.

[mexpelon83]

Sounds to me like some sort of an electrical problem. Try re-setting the electrical system. Do this by disconnecting one of the battery terminals for 30 min.

Tried it rightnow and it didnt work.

[maxnix]

Neutral switch? How did it die when you engaged D?

[elwesso]

Sorry im late to the thread. Is there any way I could get a synopsis of what's been checked so far?

[mexpelon83]

Neutral switch? How did it die when you engaged D?

I had it running on parking for 30 mins to let it warm up. When I was going to test drive it and changed gear from P to D the car just turned off no noise nothing. It just turned off. I tried to turn it on again, it will crank up but I cant get it to run again. I tried what 1990Qonwer suggested but still no run.

[Fridge]

My vote is still the maf. Mine acted just like this and would run fine I would get out at the gas station and when I got back in no startie. I bought a connector off of ebay and a maf from a member here and it has been fine ever since.

[96Qowner]

Sorry im late to the thread. Is there any way I could get a synopsis of what's been checked so far?

Let's see ...

It would crank but just not catch fire. His FPCU had a burnt prong and he replaced it with a used one. His MAF connector is "broken", but he cleaned it up and closed it as best he could. The car was sounding better, but still wouldn't actually start. His battery wouldn't hold a charge - would charge it, crank it once or twice and the battery would be dead again. The guy he bought it from said the alternator had been a problem. There used to be a Viper system installed, but it's been removed. His Positive connector on the battery sounds like it may have some extraneous junk from the viper.

This is the first time he's gotten it to start and run (after the new battery and used alternator).

[mexpelon83]

Sorry im late to the thread. Is there any way I could get a synopsis of what's been checked so far?

1. FPCU checked and replaced with a working OEM unit.

2. ECU checked with a Code "55" result.

3. MAF checked and cleaned off also the sensor connector.

4. Alternator checked failed test got an OEM one from another Q45 passed test and installed.

5. MAF checked again and replaced with a an OEM one from another Q45 just to be on the safe side.

6. Battery checked. Battery was 3 months old and was loosing the ability to charge got it replaced free thanks to warrenty.

Sunday morning I got it running for 30 mins when i changed gear to D car just turned off no noise or nothing it just turned off. Tried turning it on again but couldnt it get it past crank it wouldnt run.

On a side note... I tried doing a search for the back window replacement but couldnt find anything. Does anyone have a " How To" on the rear window replacement?

[mexpelon83]

My vote is still the maf. Mine acted just like this and would run fine I would get out at the gas station and when I got back in no startie. I bought a connector off of ebay and a maf from a member here and it has been fine ever since.

Question on the MAF on the sensor. there is a white place inside does that have to be solid white or does it have like a light gray line?

[goody90q45]

....2. ECU checked with a Code "55" result.

No Code? If it's been checked properly (only turning the screw on the ECU one time before reading the codes) then my guess is that it is a bad fuel pump or faulty FPCU. I see that the fuel pump wasn't replaced with the FPCU. Check the codes again and if there are still none I'd be grounding the fuel pump to see if it will run for more than 30 minutes.

Did you hear a swarm of bees in your trunk while the car was running?

[elwesso]

no mention of fuel pressure checked, like goody said. Check fuel pressure, and report back.

[mexpelon83]

no mention of fuel pressure checked, like goody said. Check fuel pressure, and report back.

Ok, I had someone come and check it but according to people in the forum they said that it sounds like it was not checked correct so......

Where can I buy the meter to check the pressure? Dont tell me online stores because I cant wait a week or so to get it. Could it be sold at Autozone or any Auto place?

[elwesso]

Yeah its going to be a simple gauge, autozone or advance will have one (i just saw them ... just tell them you need a fuel pressure gauge and a T and maybe 6-8in of fuel hose.. What youll want to do is undo the fuel line that goes from the fuel filter to the rail, and use the T to connect the fuel line to the fuel rail, with the gauge on the T... this way you can run the car with the gauge hooked up.

[Fridge]

Dont forget to remove the gas cap to relieve pressure in the tank

[AlabamaDan]

Too bad you can't just mount a little fuel gauge on the wheel well and have it permanent or something. Sounds easy enough.

[mexpelon83]

Sorry I havent posted anything I been jammed at work.

I havent done nothing to the car this week.

I am going to tow the car to a nissan dealership since its the closest. I called before taking it and they said that they have to Infiniti specialist there.

I will tow it today and I will post what happens.

[AlabamaDan]

Be sure to flatbed it. (See guys I pay attention!)

[maxnix]

I am going to tow the car to a nissan dealership since its the closest. I called before taking it and they said that they have to Infiniti specialist there.

Ask the tech if he was in on the original training in 1989. If not, he has probably never seen a VH45DE and will be next to useless. A lot of Nissan techs think Infinitis are G35, I30/35, QX,..... i.e. - rebadged cars with which the are faimiliar or have similar engines.

[elwesso]

Here is my honest opinion.

Unless said technician has real diagnostic experience on G50 they are going to be useless. I am always in favor of NICO + motivated member is GREATER THAN an average to slightly above average technician.

[1990QOwner]

Here is my honest opinion.

Unless said technician has real diagnostic experience on G50 they are going to be useless. I am always in favor of NICO + motivated member is GREATER THAN an average to slightly above average technician.

Well said Wes.

[mexpelon83]

Ok, so I took the car to the dealership on Friday gave them all the info and stuff like that.

I called them up today and they said that they diagnosed the car. It has an eletrical problem and 4 of the 8 cylinders dont turn on. They are going to do a deeper research to the car to determine if the eletrical problem is the one that is causing the cylinders not to turn on. So most likely I will have the car before thanks giving or this weekend ready and running.

I will keep you guys posted on it.

[mexpelon83]

Update: The car is still at the dealership. The car is not now running but its only running on 4 of the 8 cylinders. According to the tech. Its possible that the coils are bad or that harness is damaged. He will keep on working on the car and give me a detailed diagnose of what is the reason why only 4 cylinders are working.

Til next time.

[1990QOwner]

That sounds very interesting. Are they going to stoink you with a $500 bill now? Has the car ever been overheated or anything like that?

You aught to ask them if there is any way that it can be covered on warranty if it is something that is really defective. Keep us posted. Good luck.

[mexpelon83]

That sounds very interesting. Are they going to stoink you with a $500 bill now? Has the car ever been overheated or anything like that?

You aught to ask them if there is any way that it can be covered on warranty if it is something that is really defective. Keep us posted. Good luck.

As long as I had it the car has never over heated but I dont know if it did with the previous owners.

No $500 bill yet. So far the bill is only 90.20 for the diagnose. But since the tech is going to spend more time on the diagnose they are going to charge me two more hours of labor so that is 90 bucks per hour. So far the bill is 271 or so. Not bad so far considering that they have made the car run.

As long as I don't have to pay more than 1,000 at the end its all good. I'll pay.

Yes that was the very first thing that they told me that all of there work is covered under warranty for 12 months or 12,000 miles. Thats pretty good and better than what most mom and pop shops would give.

[AlabamaDan]

You might be able to talk them into applying the fees for the diagnostic toward repairs. That's one of the only things my local stealership does good.

[AlabamaDan]

Too bad you can't just mount a little fuel gauge on the wheel well and have it permanent or something. Sounds easy enough.

Remember my comment. What if we put this in the line between the fuel filter and engine?



Here it is on Ebay for $22

[Q45tech]

Unfortunately most low fuel pressures show up underload when the injectors are really open................... 4,000-7,000 rpm. Inside digital psi gauge is the proper solution.

[AlabamaDan]

Unfortunately most low fuel pressures show up underload when the injectors are really open................... 4,000-7,000 rpm. Inside digital psi gauge is the proper solution.

After I posted that I was thinking that a gauge on the interior might be more appropriate, but I've never seen anyone add extra gauges to a Q.

[96Qowner]

There are some old threads. They've been mounted on the A-pillar with some custom fab, and also in the little change tray in the console where the heater switches would be on a T, and also replacing the double DIN radio with a single DIN and locating them under that.

[mexpelon83]

Hello All,

Sorry I havent posted anything in the past two weeks.

So the car is up and running. Here is what was wrong with it......

ECM was bad... The car was running only on 4 Cylinders.

It seems that the previous onwer did some wiring on his own and he messed it up so that was causing the car to now run.

Some of the injector coils were bad and they replaced them.

The biggest contribute to the car not starting up completly was due to the eletrical problem that the bad wiring and the bad ECM.

SO with that said, I asked the dealer if they would let me take a ECM on my own and they suggested that that would be a good idea since Infiniti doesnt make those ECM's anymore. I already had gotten one from a yunk yard and I just had it laying around in the house so I took that one and it was in great working condition. Not bad since the ECM was only 20 bucks with warranty lol.......

So the car was up and running and right when the tech stepped on the gas the Service area just became foggy with smoke that was coming out of the muffler lol......

Now for a question. The car hasnt been moved or started for two months, sometimes when I turn on the car and drive it a little bit white smoke will start coming out of the front hood and from underneath the car. Is it common for that to happen since the car had not been driven or even started for two months?



Also I would like to thank all of the people who replied and helped me through this you dont know how much I appreciate each and every one of you.

P.S. All of the work that was done by a Nissan Dealer with a Certified Inifniti & Nissian Tech cost me only $317.10 NOT BAD AT ALL>>>>>>