ya the general rule is you always warm any oils before changing them = but i wouldn't go over-board.Pescakl1 wrote:Quick question: Do you warm up the fluid a little (doing some errands in the neighborhood) before changing it or do change it cold?
Thanks for the DIY (even if that does not concern me ;-)) ).
my pleasure. i love saving people moneydarylzero wrote:First I'd just like to say Thanks ImStricken!! I could not of done this without your awsome write up!
thats great. the more images the better. its tough to get every angle, so the more pictures people take = the angles & idea's we cover.So I changed my differental gear oil and transfer case oil yesterday. I just wanted to add my own experience and pictures (because everyone loves pictures!) to this.
thats a great idea. i normally use this gigantic cookie sheet. its 2 feet wide, by 4feet long to capture any fluids, but a cardboard works just as well & FREE!I highly recommend lying down some cardboard and getting those blue paper towels from the auto store, they work great.
glad to see you removed the FILL bolt first. i cant express how important that is. because if someone drains their oils out, and finds out the fill bolt is stuck/stripped/seized/ etc? biiig trouble. (just this weekend my buddies racebike had a seized axle bolt done by his shop- it DOES happen)Here is my rear differential case
me too! bought those same ramps at autozone. $49.99, right? i actually ended up getting 2 sets. i have 4 ramps now to lift just about any car.This was a very easy job changing this oil. I had my car up on ramps (they were rated for 12,000 lbs, so I felt good about that) i got at autozone and on a driveway that sloped down.
your's is pretty clean i would say. mine was a tad darker & murkier.Here is the oil coming out. It really didn't look that bad.
yep, thats really important to clean. great pic to add to this thread. hopefully it will convince more people to keep an eye on their differential & transfercase fluids. thanks man.My drain plug also had a lot of metal shavings,
i never replace mine if they look fine. most shops dont. dealers do because its an extra dollar or two to tack on.Here is what the metal gasket/washer looks like just in case someone wants to replace theirs when they do this. All of mine were in good shape so I didn't need new ones. I measured it at just under 1in in diameter.
glad i could help. you can find more of my DIY's hereThis was great to learn and love doing s*** like this on my own. I don't know much about cars (never even changed my own oil!!, howerever I will be from now on ) I just wish one of you bastards lived near Chicago so we could meet up and you could show me more
75w-90 is in no way going to harm your diff. its a tad thinner but nothing that will be felt.Towncivilian wrote:Yes, 75W-90 is usable in your differential.
darylzero wrote:your oil looked just like mine, not too bad. Looks like you didn't have near as much metal shavings. I have never towed anything so I wonder if my driving is using the awd more...
that storry was hysterical. it sounded like a script from a comedy movie lol....Rogue Noob wrote:After lurking as a non-member for DIY help over the years I was compelled to sign up and give props to the OP.
This is my gf's car but I've started doing most of the work on it. Her '08 is still under warranty and gets inspections every few months at the dealer. I was shocked to find out that this fluid should be changed every 30k when her last inspection at 85k checked off the Transfer and Differential as A-OK. Anyone know if they actually check those? I will say the local Nissan dealer I went to for fluids told me the rear differential holds 3 quarts.... and that there was no new washer.... I went to Napa because Nissan Fluids are a rape job. (As an aside, do most people stick with Nissan fluids or do they use aftermarket? I have a Honda and for most stuff people stick with OEM, but prices also seem more competitive.. anyway, back to topic)
I decided it was time to do it and got all my tools ready. I should have known it was going to be a disaster when I first went under the car and the setting sun was shining directly in my eye no matter what angle I tried. In fact, it was peaking between a neighbors house and a tree. Just my Luck.
After getting under, I saw there was a spot of some orangish stuff on the refill bolt on the differential. I think they used some jb weld or something. It was damn tough to break. When it finally did the tools went flying. The allen socket actually vanished for an hour, my right arm punched the hell out of something and the rest landed on the ground. I now have a pretty sweet purple nail, very manly.
I got an oil pump device that was recommended here but I think it had a hole in the apartus. It would only squirt drops and mostly air after the first 10oz. Solution? Sqeeze all of the air out of the bottle and in frustration smash the bottle repeatedly against under carriage to get the pump action going. Success!
Where did the socket disappear to? It fell into the hollow member that I stuck the extension through. I was able to get my magnetic tool to snag it. It was like playing Operation because if I got too close to the edge it would grab the wall of the area I was searching in! Finally got it but it was tricky.
I probably should have trusted my instinct and used my slightly sloped driveway to my advantage and lifted the rear of the vehicle to even it out. But I didn't. I chose to do this is the street. Shocking how much dirtier an asphalt road is compared to a concrete Driveway. Won't make that mistake again... or will I?
Thanks again for the DIY!
Next up... Transfer case!
i wouldnt ever touch my tranny. i would only let nissan do it. they mandate their fluid be used, and void warranty claims over every little thing. i wouldnt even go near this topic on here. lol its a very known thing that anything to do with the CVT is a dealer only thing. some folks wanna risk and use nissan fluid with a private dealer = but im not one of those types. some things are just not worth toying with.Rogue Noob wrote:Thanks for the tips Stricken. In AZ we are known for extreme heat. There is actually a big issue here with the Nissan Leaf battery not holding a charge after time. Locals all know what the heat does to batteries here, if they last 2 years you are lucky. Apparently that same issue plagues electric vehicles, makes sense.
My experience was a comedy of errors... glad you got a laugh at my expense. (my gf had a good chuckle too) Since I am so behind on these fluids I'm thinking of changing them now, and then do another change in 10k just to get all of the older fluid out. Have you had any experience changing CVT fluid and if so what fluid have you used? Going to see if there is a discussion about that now. Also, on the Honda forum there is a dealer that has some sweet deals on OEM parts/fluids that sponsors the site. Anything like that around here?
What part of Jersey? I grew up in River Vale (near Paramus).
From the Rogue Factory Service Manual under the Maintenance section (MA):Rogue Noob wrote: I will say the local Nissan dealer I went to for fluids told me the rear differential holds 3 quarts.... and that there was no new washer
Ok, I was able to do this fairly easy. Did not take much effort at all and was surprised by that. Easier than an oil change. I do have one question. The hardest thing was putting the gear fluid back in. I think I may be about 1 oz short or .029 liters. Is this something I need to worry about? I thought I had enough in there but when I put the remaining fluid in the hose back in the bottle along with the little I spilled, I think I was alittle short. Is it necessary for me to get back in there and put that little amount in there???????Differential gear oil 1-1/8 pt 1 pt 0.55 | Genuine NISSAN Differential Oil Hypoid Super | GL-5 80W-90 or API GL-5, Viscosity SAE
its not a big deal, if its an 1oz . many people dont have the car 100% level when re-filling, so it will cause the fluid level to be off by an OZ or so.Nissan92 wrote:Ok, I was able to do this fairly easy. Did not take much effort at all and was surprised by that. Easier than an oil change. I do have one question. The hardest thing was putting the gear fluid back in. I think I may be about 1 oz short or .029 liters. Is this something I need to worry about? I thought I had enough in there but when I put the remaining fluid in the hose back in the bottle along with the little I spilled, I think I was alittle short. Is it necessary for me to get back in there and put that little amount in there???????Differential gear oil 1-1/8 pt 1 pt 0.55 | Genuine NISSAN Differential Oil Hypoid Super | GL-5 80W-90 or API GL-5, Viscosity SAE
thank you sir!MrRogue wrote:I bought my Rogue new in late 2011. We have put 35k miles on since then. I had the luxury of being good friends with an owner of a Valvoline oil change shop and took full advantage.
I personally did my rear and front diffs at 15k miles and 30k miles (Pretty sure it was in the owners manual under severe/premium optional maintenance).
The rear diff fluid looked good both times, but there were metal shavings. Nothing alarming, but definitely present. The front diff fluid was significantly "nastier" looking, and much harder to get to, at least in my opinion.
Nice write up though. Especially the note about getting the fill plug out before the drain plug.
your welcome. couple other guys chimed in some good pictures & facts. just wait it out for the winter to end. im going this again in the spring(and the transfer-case as well diy-nissan-rogue-transfer-case-fluid-ch ... r#p6296786 ) since i tow in the summerScooter71 wrote:Just read this write up, I know I'm a bit late on posting to it, but GREAT WRITE UP! Perfectly explained. Makes me want to go and do this right now...if it wans't for the damn snow and more to come this weekend I would have had my project for Sunday. Thanks for all that.
blaa blaa blaa, words, words, DID I JUST READ "BIKE"!!!???? lololol/jkjkjkScooter71 wrote:Makes me nervous to wait, I purchased pre-owned from a Nissan Dealer, and I have no idea what was really done to her. She's at 37,000 now, and I seriously doubt this was ever done. Soon as I got her, I changed to full synthetic oil, in cabin air filter, new plugs, PCV valve, and new air filter and cleaned the mass air flow sensor. Yanked the stock radio out, tinted the front two windows, put slightly bigger and better tires on it, got the aluminum kick plates (non illuminating), and had a rear back up camera installed.
I'm a bit anal with my things, I keep my bike the same way. I believe you get out what you put in. Plus I love projects....LOL Thanks again, I'll take pics when I do and post up any additional info (if any) after.
I was going to replace all the drain and fill plug gaskets both front and rear, couldn't hurt right?
what kinda bike?Scooter71 wrote:Yessir.....you did read bike. Can't wait for the season to open up. I have not changed the fluid in the transfer case's yet, that's why I was thinking of changing the washer in the fill/drain bolts. Already changed the oil filter plug to a magnetic and changed the crsuh washer.
That's so messed up I know I attached a picture to the last post....damn!ImStricken wrote: what kinda bike?