DIY: Brake Shift Interlock Solenoid FIX!

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ImStricken06
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DIY: Brake Shift Interlock Solenoid FIX!

ok, yesterday i got the dreaded stuck shifter, that wouldnt come out of park. I was forced to pop that little tab, and stick my key in the hole to unlock the shifter. I got to work, and it worked fine. after work, it worked fine.

Today going to lunch, it got stuck at the gas station. again popped the tab, and used my key. pulled into a parking spot, and popped off the bezel. the system is really not that complex, so i came up with a very simple solution to the $600 problem.



REMOVE THE SILVER BEZEL AROUND THE SHIFT-GATE. TAKE A KNIFE SLIP IT UNDER, AND GENTLY PRY UPWARD.

Image


press the brake and this happen: the white rocker moved forward;
Image

take your key and press down. you will see that it moves this plate circled in blue(downward)
take a zip-tie, in this example i have a white zip-tie and slip it just as shown. test your shifter-button. you will see
that the zip-tie created enough space for the button to work
Image

Image


SIMPLE EXPLANATION IN THE PIC
Image


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kerrton
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Thank you so much for taking the time to post this How-To. I'm not exactly sure I understand how the zip tie solves the problem but it seems to be a shim - are you saying that after this process the gas peddle releases the shift lock as before, or have you overridden the whole process and the shifter remains permanently unlocked?

As with any of these Do-it-Yourself articles, any attempt to try to replicate this process on your own vehicle is at your own risk.

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ImStricken06
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i know its tough to picture, but let me try my best to explain this:

1. when you press your brake pedal, a white rocker tilts forward,
2. when that white rocker tilts forward, it creates space, for the rod to lower that is connected to the shifter-button.

**IF you DONT press the brake and the white rocker switch is thus not moved forward, when you try to press the shifter button the rod hits the top of the white rocker.**

so by putting the tiny piece of zip-tie in the exact place that i did (using the shift-lock manual over-ride with your car key) its basically like if you push the brake pedal and never let go, it keeps the white rocker permanently rocked forward, allowing constant free movement of the shifter. its like using the manual, over-ride with your key through that little SHIFT-LOCK port

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ImStricken06
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this might explain it a little better.

just follow the numbers to see how it works
Image

acmm
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If I understand your fix, you have basically bypassed the brake / shift interlock. This will allow removing the transission from the park position without the ignition on. Good to know in case this happens to my Rogue, but if so, everyone should be aware of this condition.
Do you happen to know where the solenoid is located that moves the white rocker arm when the brake is pressed. That seems to be the culprit here. I had a similar problem on my 90 maxima and replaced the solenoid which was located behind the passenger side kick panel. Got the part from a salvage yard for $10.

Thanks for the great post

MazinAzn
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Would not recommend this, I did it and it confused the Rogue's computer. The cvt was not changing gears correctly and would start off in a low gear :S. Had to use manual to get it going, even at stop lights and stuff.

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ImStricken06
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MazinAzn wrote:Would not recommend this, I did it and it confused the Rogue's computer. The cvt was not changing gears correctly and would start off in a low gear :S. Had to use manual to get it going, even at stop lights and stuff.
than your problem is elsewhere. i have been using this method for 10+months now without a single problem. your problem might be with the brake pedal solenoid. THIS FIX IS ONLY FOR THE SOLENOID IN THE CENTER CONSOLE.

FURTHERMORE, THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT NISSAN ORDERS YOU TO DO IF YOUR CENTER CONSOLE SHIFT LOCK SOLENOID IS BROKEN. SO AGAIN, YOUR PROBLEM IS ELSE WARE.

scottb022563
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sounds like your a genius :) I will try this fix on my wife's 06 G35 sedan. I will keep you posted.

Scott

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ImStricken06
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scottb022563 wrote:sounds like your a genius :) I will try this fix on my wife's 06 G35 sedan. I will keep you posted.

Scott
let us know how it worked out.

scottb022563
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It worked on my wife's 06 G35 sedan as well. Thanks so much!!!


Scott

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ImStricken06
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scottb022563 wrote:It worked on my wife's 06 G35 sedan as well. Thanks so much!!!


Scott
my pleasure. i myself was in this situation, and when i heard $600+ to repair this simple issue, i knew i had to come up with a cheaper DIY.
(just be careful because the shifter now can be moved even if the car is off by pressing the shifter button.)

ashram
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First of all thank you for the great post!

I got the same problem on my 2008 Rogue SL AWD.
After researching all alternatives, I decided to go with cheap DIY rather than paying $600 to dealership. From my opinion it is safe solution if you don‘t have kids on the first row.
I used the same approach while using different part of zip-tie.
I had zip-tie with screw hole and this part fits perfectly to the area/plate which is used for being pushed by shift lock button and it is very secured there.
I hope it is visible on the picture.

Image

Just a small warning to anybody trying this solution: after removing silver cover it is very tight space to work and small parts might fall inside (actually happened to me), so you have to remove whole shifter panel if you have to recover lost zip-tie.

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ImStricken06
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glad it fixed your issues. mine is still going strong. welcome to the forum! :)

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DTASFAB
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Does this override the push button entirely, or does it simply eliminate the requirement to depress the brake when shifting out of Park?

Is there any danger of accidentally shifting into reverse while cruising at 70mph?

One of the best features of my 1985 Toyota is that the brake pedal serves one function and one function only, which is to stop the vehicle while it's moving. Real novel concept there - that brakes would be used for braking! When I want to shift out of park, I press the button on the shifter. Simple is so much better than complicated.

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ImStricken06
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DTASFAB wrote:simply eliminates the requirement to depress the brake to shifting out of Park?
BINGO!
Is there any danger of accidentally shifting into reverse while cruising at 70mph?
impossible UNLESS you first pull in the shifter trigger thingy

ashram
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ImStricken wrote:glad it fixed your issues. mine is still going strong. welcome to the forum! :)
Thanks ImStricken!
I was reading this forum for long time, but first time decided to register and post.

I am happy with solution, and it is great that this solution works for you for so long.

It is probably good idea to put counter for each time that specific problem occurs and then submit it to Nissan.
This issue suppose to be recognized as a recall by Nissan.
Also, instead of selling whole shift assembly for almost $500, they just have to sell solenoid for reasonable price.

ashram
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DTASFAB wrote:Does this override the push button entirely, or does it simply eliminate the requirement to depress the brake when shifting out of Park?

Is there any danger of accidentally shifting into reverse while cruising at 70mph?

One of the best features of my 1985 Toyota is that the brake pedal serves one function and one function only, which is to stop the vehicle while it's moving. Real novel concept there - that brakes would be used for braking! When I want to shift out of park, I press the button on the shifter. Simple is so much better than complicated.
This solution is like shift unlock button (small hole close to shift stick) is always in pushed position.

There is danger to shift to reverse while driving, but this should be intentional, since as it was mentioned, you have to push on button on the top of the shift stick.

You can also shift to Reverse while driving with manual without stopping first ;)
My friend calls "R" on his manual stick - Rocket
Unfortunately never seen him flying :chuckle:

drivetrain
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Thankyou for providing the solution guys. It's got me out of trouble for 3 months. I now wish to sell my car - hence do you know the Nissan part numbers for the solenoid and any other parts required to put the car back to original?

Cheers in advance

Ash

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ImStricken06
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just sell it as is. its a $500-$600 part

MHC F150
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Wow, the part alone is $500-$600? Figured $500-$600 for part and labor.

GaryRogue
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ashram wrote:My friend calls "R" on his manual stick - Rocket
Unfortunately never seen him flying :chuckle:
Your friend is wrong: Everybody knows that the "R" is for "Racing" :naughty:

Cheers!

Gary

Reiniken
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Hey there. I just performed this quick-fix on a 2001 Nissan Maxima. The process is not quite as described. Here is how to do it very simply. (SEE PICTURE AT THE END)

1. Open the ashtray, remove the insert and take out the screw underneath it.
2. Open the armrest and take out the screw and the bottom.
3. With a flat-head screwdriver, pop up the trim around the shifter (NOT the trim with P-R-N-D-D1-D2). This is the trim that curves upward around the ashtray. DON'T pull it off. There are wires connecting the cigarette lighter and flasher button. Simply hang it to the passenger's side, which is away from where you'll be working. Remove the two screws that are connecting the center console to the thermostat trim.
4. On the drivers side, pull the side of the center console away from dash trim.
5. Put e-brake on and shift into drive. Next to the shifter there is a little plastic tab. Pop it out and place a screwdriver in there. Gently push down and keep it down. Shift out of park into D (drive). Keep the screwdriver handy but you don't have to keep pushing down.
6. Gently pull up on the shifter trim from the front until it pops up. While holding it up, try to pull up on the other end. You won't be able to pull up the other end as high because it will bump the console.You do not have to disassemble anything else from this point on.
7. Get on your knees and bend down in front of the drivers seat, looking at the side of the console. If you pull the side dash trim that you disconnected back a little and shine a light in, you will see everything. While you have the light shining in, put the screwdriver back into the slot and gently push down. You will see exactly how it functions and pushes the white, spring-loaded tab downward. All you have to do is stick something in there to keep it pushed down.
8. Will a wire tie work? Sort of. Use a 40-50mm thick wire tie, not a dinky little thing you use to hold wires behind your TV. A thick wire tie that will be stiff. Cut it 4.5" long and fold it over. Hold the two cut ends with your hand and that is the end that will go in facing the front of the car. The loop is what will get wedged in to hold the white button down. The white button needs to be pushed down at least 1/4" in order to release the shifter. This is why you make a loop so it creates that 1/4" gap. If you put the wire tie FLAT as pictured above, it will do nothing. I would recommend having a friend hold a flash light above the shifter and shine it down. It will take you several tries to get it to fit properly. Once you look at it, you will quickly realize that it doesn't take a rocket scientist to do it. You will probably think of many other things you could shove in there other than a wire tie. That's it. Now just put everything together!
Image

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Elton Noway
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ImStricken06 wrote:DIY: Brake Shift Interlock Solenoid FIX!

ok, yesterday i got the dreaded stuck shifter, that wouldnt come out of park. I was forced to pop that little tab, and stick my key in the hole to unlock the shifter. I got to work, and it worked fine. after work, it worked fine.

Today going to lunch, it got stuck at the gas station. again popped the tab, and used my key. pulled into a parking spot, and popped off the bezel. the system is really not that complex, so i came up with a very simple solution to the $600 problem.
Hi ImStricken06...
Always glad to read your posts. (You saved me a bundle on a brake job thanks to your tips, photos and videos :dblthumb: )

Anyway... my searching the forum on a reoccurring problem with my 2009 SL bought me to this thread. Just wondering if my problem could be related to this switch issue being discussed.

Here's my problem, when it occur... I can't turn the ignition key, (no starting the car) also... the steering wheel is locked... and I can't shift out of park. First time this happened a year ago or so I called the dealer and a mechanic told me to jiggle the steering wheel "with some force" left and right against the steering stops while turning the key. It worked ... while pulling on the steering wheel I was able to get the key turn turn, the car started and everything was fine. This has now happened quite a few times over the last couple years. Only now the problem is occurring more frequently.

FYI: Today... it happened again. Last night I pulled the car "straight" into the garage. The steering wheel was not cocked to the left or right. This morning, with the car still in park from the night before, and my foot on the brake, (both brake lights illuminated)... I had to aggressively jiggle the steering wheel back and forth while making multiple attempts to turn the ignition switch. Finally the key turned, the car started and all was well. Any ideas what might be causing this problem?
Thanks

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darylzero
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Elton Noway wrote:
ImStricken06 wrote:DIY: Brake Shift Interlock Solenoid FIX!

ok, yesterday i got the dreaded stuck shifter, that wouldnt come out of park. I was forced to pop that little tab, and stick my key in the hole to unlock the shifter. I got to work, and it worked fine. after work, it worked fine.

Today going to lunch, it got stuck at the gas station. again popped the tab, and used my key. pulled into a parking spot, and popped off the bezel. the system is really not that complex, so i came up with a very simple solution to the $600 problem.
Hi ImStricken06...
Always glad to read your posts. (You saved me a bundle on a brake job thanks to your tips, photos and videos :dblthumb: )

Anyway... my searching the forum on a reoccurring problem with my 2009 SL bought me to this thread. Just wondering if my problem could be related to this switch issue being discussed.

Here's my problem, when it occur... I can't turn the ignition key, (no starting the car) also... the steering wheel is locked... and I can't shift out of park. First time this happened a year ago or so I called the dealer and a mechanic told me to jiggle the steering wheel "with some force" left and right against the steering stops while turning the key. It worked ... while pulling on the steering wheel I was able to get the key turn turn, the car started and everything was fine. This has now happened quite a few times over the last couple years. Only now the problem is occurring more frequently.

FYI: Today... it happened again. Last night I pulled the car "straight" into the garage. The steering wheel was not cocked to the left or right. This morning, with the car still in park from the night before, and my foot on the brake, (both brake lights illuminated)... I had to aggressively jiggle the steering wheel back and forth while making multiple attempts to turn the ignition switch. Finally the key turned, the car started and all was well. Any ideas what might be causing this problem?
Thanks
Sounds like your steering wheel gets locked.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0tK6Ifl4mA

http://www.asap-locksmith-buffalo-ny.co ... wheel.html

are your keys bent?

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ImStricken06
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Elton Noway wrote:Hi ImStricken06...
Always glad to read your posts. (You saved me a bundle on a brake job thanks to your tips, photos and videos :dblthumb: )
thanks man :) glad to help
Anyway... my searching the forum on a reoccurring problem with my 2009 SL bought me to this thread. Just wondering if my problem could be related to this switch issue being discussed.

Here's my problem, when it occur... I can't turn the ignition key, (no starting the car) also... the steering wheel is locked... and I can't shift out of park. First time this happened a year ago or so I called the dealer and a mechanic told me to jiggle the steering wheel "with some force" left and right against the steering stops while turning the key. It worked ... while pulling on the steering wheel I was able to get the key turn turn, the car started and everything was fine. This has now happened quite a few times over the last couple years. Only now the problem is occurring more frequently.

FYI: Today... it happened again. Last night I pulled the car "straight" into the garage. The steering wheel was not cocked to the left or right. This morning, with the car still in park from the night before, and my foot on the brake, (both brake lights illuminated)... I had to aggressively jiggle the steering wheel back and forth while making multiple attempts to turn the ignition switch. Finally the key turned, the car started and all was well. Any ideas what might be causing this problem?
Thanks
this doesnt sound like a brake shift interlock solenoid. this sounds like an ignition problem. this could be the steering lock going bad, this could be a key-fob issue, this could be the module that interacts with the key fob, this could be the actual 'nub' thing that you turn to start the car, etc.

i had a weird issue in my car: the remote wouldnt work at times. none of the buttons, and the car wouldnt start, requiring me to use the physical key. after months of trial & error, i took a similar, but slightly fatter battery and put it into the remote. guess what - fixed the intermittent issue of the car not communicating with the remote

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Elton Noway wrote:Hi ImStricken06...
Always glad to read your posts. (You saved me a bundle on a brake job thanks to your tips, photos and videos :dblthumb: )

Anyway... my searching the forum on a reoccurring problem with my 2009 SL bought me to this thread. Just wondering if my problem could be related to this switch issue being discussed.

Here's my problem, when it occur... I can't turn the ignition key, (no starting the car) also... the steering wheel is locked... and I can't shift out of park. First time this happened a year ago or so I called the dealer and a mechanic told me to jiggle the steering wheel "with some force" left and right against the steering stops while turning the key. It worked ... while pulling on the steering wheel I was able to get the key turn turn, the car started and everything was fine. This has now happened quite a few times over the last couple years. Only now the problem is occurring more frequently.

FYI: Today... it happened again. Last night I pulled the car "straight" into the garage. The steering wheel was not cocked to the left or right. This morning, with the car still in park from the night before, and my foot on the brake, (both brake lights illuminated)... I had to aggressively jiggle the steering wheel back and forth while making multiple attempts to turn the ignition switch. Finally the key turned, the car started and all was well. Any ideas what might be causing this problem?
Thanks
I remember reading somewhere on this forum before about that, if you move the steering wheeling after turning the car off (like if you hold your steering wheel when exiting the car) it will lock it and the ignition. To "unlock" it, you have to turn the steering wheel hard on one side while turning the ignition.

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Elton Noway
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Elton Noway wrote:Here's my problem, when it occurs... I can't turn the ignition key, (no starting the car) also... the steering wheel is locked... and I can't shift out of park. This has now happened quite a few times over the last couple years. Only now the problem is occurring more frequently.

FYI: Today... it happened again. Last night I pulled the car "straight" into the garage. The steering wheel was not cocked to the left or right. This morning, with the car still in park from the night before, and my foot on the brake, (both brake lights illuminated)... I had to aggressively jiggle the steering wheel back and forth while making multiple attempts to turn the ignition switch. Finally the key turned, the car started and all was well. Any ideas what might be causing this problem?
Thanks
ImStricken06 wrote:this doesnt sound like a brake shift interlock solenoid. this sounds like an ignition problem. this could be the steering lock going bad, this could be a key-fob issue, this could be the module that interacts with the key fob, this could be the actual 'nub' thing that you turn to start the car, etc.

i had a weird issue in my car: the remote wouldnt work at times. none of the buttons, and the car wouldnt start, requiring me to use the physical key. after months of trial & error, i took a similar, but slightly fatter battery and put it into the remote. guess what - fixed the intermittent issue of the car not communicating with the remote
Due to all the excellent advice and information offered in this forum its only fair that I should report back with the solution to my specific problem. Thanks to the insight offered by ImStricken06 :dblthumb: ... I was able to find the solution.

Being my car was relatively new (from a mileage standpoint), I discounted the bad steering lock or ignition problem. ImStricken06's suggestion it might be the key fob and the installation of a fatter battery in the remote key fob both sounded like valid possibilities. The delay in posting this reply was because the problem was intermittent and I had to wait for the problem to occur again.

Anyway... to troubleshoot... after ImStickens suggestion I went went out and purchased two brand new fresh CR2025 batteries. But... I only installed one of them, putting it my "spare" key fob then put the fob with new battery away in our kitchen junk drawer. I did nothing to the key fob on my key ring. Finally one evening several weeks later it did it again. (i.e., couldn't turn the ignition key or start the car, the steering wheel was locked... and couldn't shift out of park. Stepping on the brake and jiggling the steering wheel was of no use) I went into the house... grabbed the spare key fob went back to the garage and the Rogue fired right up. To be double check... I took the spare key fob back into the house and with the original key fob I was again unable to start the car. Nothing worked. I then replaced the battery in my everyday key fob. The Rouge fired right up and the problem has not reoccurred since.

I've since decided the problem only occurred when the battery had reached a point where it was too weak to perform. Looking back it only makes sense... with a failing/dead battery in the key fob it would be the same as climbing into a vehicle and expecting it to start without a key fob. :facepalm:

NET: If you have a intermittent starting problem like this or something similar try the easy fix and change the key fob battery first.

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ImStricken06
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glad to be of help :)

roguewarrior12
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Hi - I had the same issue for my 2012 Nissan Rogue. I took off all of the center console assembly and replaced this $3.00 part. Nissan wanted $1,500.00 to replace the entire shifter. Thanks to this forum I was able to figure it out following the schematics to remove the center console and matching the part to the bottom right hand side of the shifter. Thank you again to this group!

It's probably the "lever in park" switch in the CVT control module. I see this switch is available in the USA from http://www.mouser.com for $2.44. The switch is a D3M-01K3-3 made by Omron. Here in New Zealand the Nissan dealers will only sell the the whole module at $1500.00. It is easy to replace once you have exposed the control module and figured out which switch it is on the right hand side off the control module. That part of the job is too detailed to explain here. There are other causes such as the switch on the brake pedal and the solenoid but both times it has happened with me it's been this switch. Good luck.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Om ... o5893I4%3D

diy-stuck-shifter-wont-come-out-of-park ... 54005.html

jedijosh
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roguewarrior12 wrote:
Thu Feb 06, 2020 7:40 am
Hi - I had the same issue for my 2012 Nissan Rogue. I took off all of the center console assembly and replaced this $3.00 part. Nissan wanted $1,500.00 to replace the entire shifter. Thanks to this forum I was able to figure it out following the schematics to remove the center console and matching the part to the bottom right hand side of the shifter. Thank you again to this group!

It's probably the "lever in park" switch in the CVT control module. I see this switch is available in the USA from http://www.mouser.com for $2.44. The switch is a D3M-01K3-3 made by Omron. Here in New Zealand the Nissan dealers will only sell the the whole module at $1500.00. It is easy to replace once you have exposed the control module and figured out which switch it is on the right hand side off the control module. That part of the job is too detailed to explain here. There are other causes such as the switch on the brake pedal and the solenoid but both times it has happened with me it's been this switch. Good luck.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Om ... o5893I4%3D

diy-stuck-shifter-wont-come-out-of-park ... 54005.html
When your "Park Position Switch" was bad, did your Driver Information Center still show that you were in Park? I'm having this problem on my 2014 Rogue. The Driver Information Center shows I'm in park but the "Connecting Lock Lever" doesn't rotate out of the way when I press the brake. The brake lights do work. In my research and this post, it seems the 2 common failure points are either the "Park Position Switch" or the "Shift Lock Solenoid".


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