DIY: Rear Differential Fluid Change

[D1dad]

Just because I still had enough fluid left and I wasn’t at all excited how the rear diff looked even after the second drain, I did it again today. Much better than the second time but still some shavings on the magnet. I’ll prbly do it again in a few K because it’s just that easy. The transfer case, not so much. I’ll probably tackle that every 20k given the stock fluid didn’t really look bad considering the factory didn’t even have it full.

[casperfun]

Wow, thought my ocd was bad. I changed my diff fluid with 80w-90 but after a few weeks I think, I wanted only the best so I changed it to synthetic 75w-90 and dumped the still new valvoline gear oil.

I understand changing the cvt fluid repetitively, but I’m not really worried about the transfer/diff as I am with the crappy Jatco cvt transmission.

If I had to chose between the two, I would go overboard with the cvt fluid.

[D1dad]

Lol I hear ya. I’m 48, been married for 26 yrs and often look for projects to get me outside. While my newer cars are under warranty I’ll let the dealer deal with the cvt so it’s documented in case it grenades. Now my 09 get changed as much as the oil...wel almost. I loaded up on eneos ns3 from napa when they had the 25%off a few months ago. Once out of warranty I’ll start working though the 24qts I’ve stocked up.

[D1dad]

Wow, thought my ocd was bad. I changed my diff fluid with 80w-90 but after a few weeks I think, I wanted only the best so I changed it to synthetic 75w-90 and dumped the still new valvoline gear oil.

I understand changing the cvt fluid repetitively, but I’m not really worried about the transfer/diff as I am with the crappy Jatco cvt transmission.

If I had to chose between the two, I would go overboard with the cvt fluid.

Any issue running synthetic? The manual calls for gl5 non synthetic so I stayed with their recommendation for whatever reason that may be. At least while I’m under 60k.

[casperfun]

I think you said it best earlier, there’s no difference, which I say is a good thing, as it drives like normal.

Normal, like when new, in the beginning, in the middle, or a decade later. I’ll take it.

They do say synthetic is better when changing motor oil, so I tend to follow that train of thought with severe gear oil changes in the diff/transfer case also.

[casperfun]

So I just changed the diff after 20k, but I used my leftover high performance valvoline 80w-90.
The magnet had substantial gunk on it.

When I have time, I'll do the transfer case with my leftover Amsoil severe gear oil.

Since I plan to change it more often than not, ill just use whatever fluid is sitting around.

[casperfun]

Forgot to say that the amsoil looked like golden honey while draining the diff case. Or as that amsoil guy always says, liquid gold. Protection, protection, protection.

They say to change this amsoil stuff normally at 100k and a severe schedule at 50k.

So presently I’m at no rush doing the transfer case. Just wanted to see how the diff is holding up.

[KoiMaxx]

I planned to do the fluid change for the transfer case when I changed the fluids for the CVT, engine, and differential over the weekend, but gave up after several attempts -- I tried a 10mm allen wrench but found it hard to orientate it where I could actually apply force to unseat the fill plug. I didn't realize there were socket bits that can be used on ratchets or breaker bars like this: https://www.amazon.ca/LEXIVON-Complete- ... B07MDLCLML
Oh well... hindsight's always 20/20

[D1dad]

Just go to Lowe’s or Home Depot and get a 3/8 hex for your ratchet. I use a piece of pipe as a breaker so I’m not busting my knuckles. Just make sure you keep the hex perfectly seated as the plug is easy to round out.

[casperfun]

+1 my floor jack handle is my goto breaker pipe for my ratchet on many occasions.

[ngzcaz]

I will say the local Nissan dealer I went to for fluids told me the rear differential holds 3 quarts.... and that there was no new washer

From the Rogue Factory Service Manual under the Maintenance section (MA):

Differential gear oil 1-1/8 pt 1 pt 0.55 | Genuine NISSAN Differential Oil Hypoid Super | GL-5 80W-90 or API GL-5, Viscosity SAE
80W-90

Transfer oil 3/4 pt 5/8 pt 0.38 | Genuine NISSAN Differential Oil Hypoid Super GL-5 80W-90 or API GL-5, Viscosity SAE
80W-90

*1: For further details, see “Engine Oil Recommendation”.
*2: Using transmission fluid other than Genuine NISSAN CVT Fluid NS-2 will damage the CVT, which is not covered by the NISSAN
new vehicle limited warranty.
*3: For hot climates, viscosity SAE 90 is suitable for ambient temperatures above 0°C (32°F).
*4: Available in mainland U.S.A. through a NISSAN dealer.

Dealers absolutely want your loyality and if you find an honest above board one by all means take your vehicle there for all services... let me share my experience when I called my dealer on a 2019 Nissan Rogue for a CVT and rear/front diff oil changes.. Having already performed these services I already knew the answers but for future reference I was curious what they would say. Two out out three gave wrong answers as to the fluids used, all three gave different answers as to the mileage to perform them and prices for the CVT changed ranging fron a tad over $ 250 to $550 and to top it off at least one recommended a flush which most dealers do not recommend.. How's that for consistency ? And I didn't even mention how inflated the prices were. Nope if you can, do it yourself. If you can't, find an honest independent. My experience with dealers has not been a stellar one. Want to hear what they said about my wifes Subaru Crosstrex and the " Lifetime " CVT oil they used ?

[VStar650CL]

Some of this is just people not understanding how the repair biz works. The guy who answers the phone isn't a tech and probably knows less about cars than you do. That's even true of most Service Managers, because most SM's started out as Service Advisors and not techs. In a perfect world, SA's would be translators, equally conversant with customer-speak and technician-speak and at least somewhat knowledgeable about repair and maintenance. In the real world that's very rarely the case. SA's are salespeople, plain and simple, and for the most part they're full of the same BS as any other salesperson. If you want prices, they can tell you that. For anything else, ditch the phone, walk around the back of the shop to the technician smokers' lounge, and ask a guy who actually knows some answers. Chances are even the lube techs know vastly more than anybody you'll ever talk to at a front desk.

[D1dad]

Or just ask on here. If I could find a dealership with a vstar I’d use them for everything. I can’t, so I do as much as humanly possible and then know it’s done right. Hell, an oil change when I do it is methodical. Drink 2 beers while it drains while most places plug the pan while it’s still draining. Take everything Nissan says in their manuals and throw it out. Cvt fluid should be changed every 20k. No oil should be left in service (especially direct injection) for 10k. The brake fluid most likely doesn’t need changed every 20k and who the hell wants tire rotations every 5k? Nissan nit picks the small stuff and ignores the big. Change differential fluid every 20k as well. They hold very little gear oil.

[V6er]

@ngzcaz is absolutely right. employees are (depending on your truthfulnes) either incompetent or just scammers. all they want is to swipe your card.
while I can understand part where they "want to earn living" - I don't understand the part where they do bad job and lie to your face.
I once did experiment - went to three dealerships to ask for a quote for replacing fine filter and strainer in cvt... all three made stupid faces trying to tell me that there are no filters in cvt(which i replaced a day earlier). one tried to tell me I can't even buy those filters etc

btw, another fun fact about dealerships - we recently moved and local dealership has two oil change options on "menu". one is "oil change", other is "GOOD oil change" (+30bucks

@VStar650CL, we, as a clients, don't have to. _you_ want us to "walk in your shoes" while you try to "keep your nose in clouds".
we, as a clients, need service. not just charity fund for "starving kids of nissan employees".

@D1dad, not sure about Vstar650CL. he seems to be helpful in some topics... in mine it seemed like we have spoken on reddit

about cvt fluid change at 20k - I disagree. my experience (~30..40kmiles per cvt fluid drain/refill) says that it is still pretty close to clean fluid. but may be your usage is harsher than mine.

back to original topic - has anybody pointed out that rear diff fluid is not used in 4x4 engaging unit?

[D1dad]

If anyone’s interested in what gear oil has worked best, at least for me. I used amsoil severe gear for around 30k. I wasn’t impressed with the way things sounded. I’m very in tune and downright anal on how any fluid, whether fluid or gear oils make my car sound. Especially the rogue. My direct injected 21 and even the new 24, I can’t gauge. Even though they’re the 2.5 they sound rattly and compressor engine like. Anyways, I ordered in some motul 80w90 “mineral” gear oil, which is heavy on esters. I can’t get over how much it smoothed out Nissans clicks and clanks in the drivetrain. I did this late spring so can’t testify to the cold flow. It was $20 a liter which is what amsoil charges for a quart at my local farm store. As much as a pita the rogue is to change, unless you have a lift, then I’ll probably ride this fluid out to 40k unless I hear it getting louder. I’m at 10k right now and it’s just as quiet as when I put it in.

[D1dad]

You can’t judge cvt fluid by color, just like you really can’t judge oil by color. I’m in the north and everything here is severe service. Starting your ride in the middle of January and driving 20 miles usually doesn’t get the oil up to temp. Every car I’ve owned has the milk shake oil cap that I clean off monthly, yet the oil itself appears spotless. I’ll run hpl or Schaefer’s in my cars from April to November. November they get a jug of clearance oil, albeit of good quality, Mobil 1, pennzoil or valvoline. The winter oil get changed sometimes twice in that time frame and definitely no more than 3k miles, the oil ends up saturated with fuel and condensation. The reason it gets clearance oil and not stuff that’s $13 a quart. When my 09 threw a cvt, the fluid was clean to the naked eye at 95k and had never been changed. I didn’t know any better and the dealer lied that it needed it. The additives were simply spent. Now, if we’re talking brake fluid the I’d 100% agree you go by color. I’ve settled on cvt spill and fills every spring and then another a month later. That gives me 60-70% new fluid for the hot summer that generally involves a trip through the Appalachians and back. I do the work and buy my cvt fluid on the cheap. So when a dealer would charge $250, that price gets me around 30 quarts of fluid and allows me around 7 changes.

[V6er]

I agree that you can't judge by the color. but there is difference if you drain black and smelling fluid or see through, original color and no smell.