DIY: Bottom mount turbo manifold and DIY: Brake master heat shield fabrication

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idahotuner
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sideways you and i havea alot in common

and i am going to use this thread to make my own heat sheil most likely.

my MR turbo extension is at the post office now. and i all ready have the manifold.

how are they holding up for you. i wont install mine until the end of the month when i get my turbo..

and in my turbo extension is where i am going to put my sensor for my pyrometer. s o i have to weld a bung on for that.


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IanS
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They are both holding up very nicely, the extra bracing I made for the downpipe is doing its job. I will be installing my new UEGO tomorrow, I havnt decided if Im going to weld in a new bung, or run the ECU off the UEGOs output, first I have to find out what kind of signal the factory o2 puts out, Im not sure I can even configure the controller to put out that signal. Now Im off to do more research.

idahotuner
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yea my down pipe has pretty good bracing so i am not really worried about it. i didnt see any pics of the extra bracing you made. do you have pics of that.

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IanS
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idahotuner wrote:yea my down pipe has pretty good bracing so i am not really worried about it. i didnt see any pics of the extra bracing you made. do you have pics of that.
No, that was an epic failure on my part, maybe I will get some today.

idahotuner
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ok sweet thanks

codyace
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SideWays=smiles wrote:Then you would be wrong, I started tinkering on DSM rally cars when I was 16 years old, I never want to see another 4G63-T. Ive also spent a fair amount of time ruining Honda D series engines with boost.
One of the most fun cars I ever had the chance to drive was a t25 turbo d16 honda. Only made 220 hp, but what a great daily driver turbo car...
SideWays=smiles wrote:The fact stands, the benefit of those temperature changes are minimal. I have very little money to spend, that means I do everything myself, and I fabricate everything I can. Super clean, money pit cars are cool, but an ugly car with just as much power, that is built by some guy in a shed is much more impressive to me.
Home built, home bought, and home frabricated here as well :D

But FWIW: Coating does help BIG time in our experience, both on road cars and race cars...
SideWays=smiles wrote:I doubt that, many people are running completely stock engines. 200hp per liter, is racey, period.
True, but I would not consider my car anywhere near a proper build. So many things need to be done to consider it a reliable race engine (extra oiling, better crankcase ventelation, external gate, etc etc)
SideWays=smiles wrote: I'm sure swain makes a great product, but I can think of a lot better ways to spend $200.
It's a realitive expense. If the manifold is off, I would coat it. The only way to spend 200 better IMO is on brake pads/lines, and or track time :D
SideWays=smiles wrote:I have greatly enjoyed arguing with you, its such a nice change from answering the same question over and over again.
Come on now, you know youlove answering 'what is the best bov' and 'what is an sr20 swap' threads

Point taken, but again, just trying to say that any coating IMO is worthwhile for any good setup. That 200 extra dollars could be saved by waiting a week to build it....

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IanS
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codyace wrote:That 200 extra dollars could be saved by waiting a week to build it....
Im not making much money right now, and I have a lot of bills, I can only afford to spend about $100 a month building my car. I keep extra money in savings in case something breaks and for other emergencys. Every time a part fails, I replace it with somthing better, somtimes I hope the car will break, so I can make it better.

idahotuner
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have more then 100 bucks per month to spend on my car, but i want my car to be compleltely done before july . and i want it drive able by the end of march

codyace
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idahotuner wrote: have more then 100 bucks per month to spend on my car, but i want my car to be compleltely done before july . and i want it drive able by the end of march
wait, built by july, driveable in march?

Thats one LONG timeframe...

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IanS
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codyace wrote:wait, built by july, driveable in march?

Thats one LONG timeframe...
I think he meant drivable by March, completely finished by July.

idahotuner
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SideWays=smiles wrote:
I think he meant drivable by March, completely finished by July.
yea that is what i ment.

just little odds and ends that i will finish putting in. and replacing like interior crap.i will have all the engine and drive train stuff hopefully done byt the tiem the snow is gone. so i can drive it.

codyace
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idahotuner wrote:
yea that is what i ment.

just little odds and ends that i will finish putting in. and replacing like interior crap.i will have all the engine and drive train stuff hopefully done byt the tiem the snow is gone. so i can drive it.
...ahhhhhhhhhh hahaah

Yea, I was really confused by that at first lol!

idahotuner
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yep. it will be sweet. cant wait.

i still wantto see those pics sideways

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IanS
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idahotuner wrote:yep. it will be sweet. cant wait.

i still wantto see those pics sideways
I didnt get around to taking them, I was running some errands and my knock sensor decided to take a dump. Instead of installing my wideband and taking a bunch of pictures, I spent about an hour pulling the plugs and cleaning the MAFs to see if the car would run better, then I had the revalation, maybe its throwing a code, needless to say, it was throwing 34 which is knock sensor, we tested it, it failed. I spent the rest of the afternoon installing the nitrous on my buddys GSXR 1000 Turbo, I know, he is nuts. Luckily my wife has this week off, Ive been driving her car. When the new sensor comes in, and I have a few I will try and take those pictures.

idahotuner
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well i placed an order for my turbo and stuff yesterday. so i cant wait for it to get here so so i can install.

RPS13 DRIFTER
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where did you get the new exhaust manifold studs from when you broken them?

idahotuner
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i ordered the studs from enjukuracing. but i have yet to get. them. they should be here this week.

RPS13 DRIFTER
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where did you get the exhaust manifold studs and turbo line crush washers from?

idahotuner
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oh sorry i should have specified. it is a kit with nuts and everything you need. here is the link http://www.enjukuracing.com/ they are advertised o nthe home page

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IanS
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RPS13 DRIFTER wrote:where did you get the new exhaust manifold studs from when you broken them?
I had a spare KA head laying around, I just pulled the studs out of that.

As for Crush washer, I have a big bin with all differant sizes, I just grab them out of there.

goldeneye9mm
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ok i was doing mine the other day andi got to this point and got stuck. did you have these on yours?vvvvvvvvv



i cant get the freaking thing to unfold. any tips in this case? i actually just put everything back together cause i couldn't get any further. thanks in advance

codyace
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unfold? Just stick a small screwdriver between the nut and or manifold and twist it...it'll pry up then

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IanS
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goldeneye9mm wrote:ok i was doing mine the other day andi got to this point and got stuck. did you have these on yours?vvvvvvvvv

i cant get the freaking thing to unfold. any tips in this case? i actually just put everything back together cause i couldn't get any further. thanks in advance
Wow, I completely forgot about those, my turbo has been off 3 or 4 times over the last 4 years, by the time I installed the new manifold they had long since been lost. Good catch, I will have to edit the write up to include some info on the locking tabs.

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positron1
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How's that manifold holding up now because I'm thinking about buying one tommorrow?

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danstachet
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FlatBlackIan wrote: I will be installing my new UEGO tomorrow, I havnt decided if Im going to weld in a new bung, or run the ECU off the UEGOs output, first I have to find out what kind of signal the factory o2 puts out, Im not sure I can even configure the controller to put out that signal. Now Im off to do more research.
What UEGO are you gonna run? the AEM? if so, i believe the instructions say to mount it no less than 18" from the turbo or you might prematurely burn out the sensor. and as for the factory o2 on SR's im pretty sure just unplugging it causes no problems at all with how the car runs. I was having a problem with my SR at one point and spoke to someone at Enjuku about it because i thought my o2 was the culprit and he told me it couldn't be. the gentleman said that on their customer builds they generally eliminate the factory o2 because it really does nothing

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IanS
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positronone wrote:How's that manifold holding up now because I'm thinking about buying one tommorrow?
Its holding up great, no cracks as of yet, and it hasnt gotten all nasty colored either. Im happy with it.
danstachet wrote:
What UEGO are you gonna run? the AEM? if so, i believe the instructions say to mount it no less than 18" from the turbo or you might prematurely burn out the sensor. and as for the factory o2 on SR's im pretty sure just unplugging it causes no problems at all with how the car runs. I was having a problem with my SR at one point and spoke to someone at Enjuku about it because i thought my o2 was the culprit and he told me it couldn't be. the gentleman said that on their customer builds they generally eliminate the factory o2 because it really does nothing
I have a AEM gauge type wideband UEGO controller. I have it mounted in the factory o2 sensor bung, with the analog output connected to the ECU.

You have it wrong about the factory o2 sensor. It is true that the ECU does lot listen to the sensor during WOT, but during cruising and at idle, the ECU uses the o2 signal to adjust ratios on the fly. Without the sensor you lose a little drive ability and your fuel economy tends to go down.

duffman1278
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Is your exhaust manifold connected to the downpipe with a flex pipe? I'm worried about the cracking as well and was thinking about have a flex pipe welded onto my downpipe.

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IanS
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duffman1278 wrote:Is your exhaust manifold connected to the downpipe with a flex pipe? I'm worried about the cracking as well and was thinking about have a flex pipe welded onto my downpipe.
Yes I have a three inch section of flex pipe.


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