Car dies, won't idle

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1995240sxSE
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Ok guys I have been searching last night for 2 hrs and this am for an hour. I cant find anything! I can get it started up but if i dont gas it it dies right away at Idle. I was thinking it was safc related. I messed with air dec. setting and it didnt do anything. Now it is flodded so I gotta wait for a few so I am gonna ask for help. Why is it dying at idle?
Modified by 1995240sxSE at 4:14 PM 2/13/2007


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Chezedik
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More info please, have you ran codes?

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1995240sxSE
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no cause It had been throwin at codes proba good place to start huh thanks for a nudge in the right direction.

I blew headgasket and replaced it the other day put it back togother and got it firing but will not hold idle Fuel spark timing and cam timing is GOOD!

gaehrings13
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Sounds like you might be a tooth off on the distributor. Check it again... even though you think its right just set it one more time..!

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Chezedik
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Def, also, for that matter, can you give us compression and vacuum? Do you have any datalogging capabilities?

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1995240sxSE
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i cant gety it to fire anymore! Comp was 180 across all 4. I think timing is perfect 20 dtdc on timing light. I dont have a vac gauge my codes are all 12X codes and those are auto transmission coeds. I have no datalog capabilities. I am gettin frustrated!

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1995240sxSE
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code 21 ignition signal circuit what does that mean???, could I be throwing that code if modified my dizzy for an msd 6btm? If so no trouble codes so...... it has to be safc or vac or fuel or spark, but spark, fuel are good so vac or safc settings. Hmmm. I am gonna pull plugs and spray w/ ether and reinstall! Hopefully it will fire back up! and then find the vac leak???

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1995240sxSE
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ok cant get it to start now, the damn plugs keep gettin fouled before it fires up. I cleaned the plugs and it started, I reved it up let off and it died. Wouldnt start again. I turned it over for a while with fuel pump fuse out for a while to clear cyl's. cleaned off plugs but nothing now. I may need new plugs. these are the ones that were in before. blew hg sat for 6 mo and now tryin to reuse!

Any help 4 me???

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Chezedik
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What about the codes?

EDIT: Me = can't read good.
Modified by Chezedik at 9:59 PM 2/13/2007

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1995240sxSE
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all of the codes that I am throwing are related to the transmission, ie auto to 5spd swap except for 21. I think that is because I modded my dizzy to work with msd 6btm. I reset the timing and it is dead on! I get it to sputter but nothing. All I have changed since yesterday was mess with air dec. settings and put new seal on the oil pan and change out turbos! I would love to get this pig running. I am gonna try new spark plugs. If that dont work I am convinced that the o rings on fuel injectors are bad. I will test that tomarow as well! I have comp. I know I am getting fuel. and everytime I look at my plugs they are soaked in gas. If I remove the fuel pump relay it wont change the way the car acts, so I am really leaning towards the spark plugs

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Chezedik
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Code 21 indicates a Dizzy malfunction, coil, or transistor... typically. When did you put BTM on? Since this started? Did you use the transistor adaptor to read to the computer, to send the dizzy signal to the computer. So since this is only a code 21 and not 21 and 11. I would not say dizzy, I would say it is related to the install of the BTM. Do you have pics?

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1995240sxSE
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i can go snap some but the btm has been on since turbo and no probs. I never checked the codes b4 cause it ran well. I ASSumed that the cel was all for transmission. I am not gettin 11 just 21 and no i didnt use a transistor or anything like that. I followed the directions on jwt to the t and It worked right away. I dont think that it started to malfunction now. I could b wrong. I am really leaning to sparkplugs.

Before I blew the headgasket My idle was inconstant but I didnt have iacv hooked to anything.

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1995240sxSE
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WDRacing
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What are your AFR's at idle? Is the IACV line kinked at all? Adjust the throttle cable to hold open just to keep the car running so we can troubleshoot. Do you have a wideband?

WD

NateDogg
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What is the maf voltage with key 'on'?

Also, do plugs get wet while just priming the pump (leaky injectors)?

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1995240sxSE
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ok I cant even get it to fire up so I cant give you an afr yet but once started afr's will be here via plx m-300. When priming and trying to clear cyl's of fuel no fuel gets onto the plugs. which is why I am thinking just need to replace the plugs. Also would 6 month old gas have anything to do with probs?current plugs are the ones that were in the car when hg blew 6 months ago and sat in cyl with antifreeze and oil for 6 months.

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1995240sxSE
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as far as the voltage which spot on the afc would that be the top one on voltage check if so does .65 volts sound right (i have no multimeter)

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Chezedik
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Yeah guys, if he is throwing code 21 it is very likely he doesn't have spark. To be honest you have a snake's nest of wires there. Now, I am assuming that it ran at some point with the BTM? If that is the case I would look at a failed scotch-lock or bad connection. This really is the sort of thing you need to solder.

Check continuity on from the wires before the scotch-locks to the inputs to the MSD. Also, get that red wire away from the mani.

SloS13
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The dec-air, if set incorrectly can cause ultra-crappy idle and startup problems.

Replace your plugs with some new BKR6E-11's, turn off your dec-air and retry.

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WDRacing
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Set the decel air settings to zero, as if you never touched them. This will remove the SAFC from idling issues. The decel air isn't meant to control idle, its meant to control MAF voltgae fluctuations that cause you to run super rich upon "decel" or running a BOV vented to the atmosphere.

My BTM wiring looked like that as well, its an ugly job, although mine was wrapped in a wire loom. If it was running before, I don't think the btm is the issue. But, thats just my first opinion.

How do you know your fuel settings are correct if you don't know what they are? If they are to lean, the car won't run, if they are to rich, the car won't run, if the initial rpm correction point is to high, the car won't run...

Lots of things to check.

Slow down when you type and use clear concise thoughts and idea's. Try a capital letter here and there. Then before you post, reread it to make sure things are spelled correctly and the words atleast go together.

WD

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jmwenick
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Couldn't he set all of his fuel adjustments to 0 across the board, so that its running straight off the ecu? Then yuo could rule out the safc. Also check that your Air in/Air out is wired correctly on your SAFC, I aciddentally spliceed the two wires together and idle was all messed up. Hope that helps, if only a little

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WDRacing
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I'm assuming he's using aftermarket injectors...if he's using stock injectors then yes, the SAFC can be eliminated if not entirely removed.


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Chezedik
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I think it is still worth pointing out that the SAFC will not throw a code 21 since it is on a different circuit. Can you check to see if you have any spark at all? Many times when you throw code 21 it will not even spark, that was a major hold up for me. Also, check your grounds on the back of the head, sounds silly, but just check all of your grounds.

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I agree that spark should not be arbitrarily tossed aside as good.

Here's the best way to troubleshoot spark issues. Get a good friend to come over and assist. Have him place the plug wire directly into his mouth. Once he does this, you crank the motor over, make sure the fuel pump fuse is pulled though. You MUST do this for all 4 cylinders to be sure you have equal spark. Trust me, you'll know if you have ignition or not.

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1995240sxSE
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I am getting spark at the rotor, I saw it flash when I was bumping motor around to tdc. I just woke Up and I am off to the auto store to get brk6e-11's. I had 5's in there gapped to .028 or .28. on air dec settings screen Should I have top one at ***** and n1 and n2 setting at 0.00 and 0.00. I have 480'cc injectors and the safc II is set at -43 across the low map. It is hot wire 4 cyl with arrow from left bottom to top right. I have a q45 maf and the settings are 2 in and 6 out.

I am almost positive that the problem is that the spark plugs arent sending the spark correctly! I know the spark is getting to them.

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Chezedik
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Getting one spark doesn't indicate a lack of problem at the transistor. You need to pull a plug wire, hold it to ground, and make sure that you consistantly get spark. A code 21 malfunction doesn't indicate incorrect distributor timing either, it indicates a primary or secondary signal malfunction (I forget which, the other is 11). Get the FSM from the KA section, and go through the diagnostic procedures for code 21, and that will get you taken car of and running.

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1995240sxSE
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got it running plugs were fouled beyond help. slapped new ones in and it fired up the 1st try. Now the issue is inconsistant idle. it fires up and revs to 15 settles down at 800 then slowly drops till it dies. I am gonna hook my wideband to see the afr's and maybe that'll shed some light on idle. does it matter what o2 sensor I remove? I have the plx m-300 and it gives off a short band signal, do I just wire it into the short band wire?

NateDogg
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1995240sxSE wrote:got it running plugs were fouled beyond help. slapped new ones in and it fired up the 1st try. Now the issue is inconsistant idle. it fires up and revs to 15 settles down at 800 then slowly drops till it dies. I am gonna hook my wideband to see the afr's and maybe that'll shed some light on idle. does it matter what o2 sensor I remove? I have the plx m-300 and it gives off a short band signal, do I just wire it into the short band wire?
Yes you should hook up the PLX narrowband output to the ecu. What vacuum are you getting at idle?

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1995240sxSE
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good ? I dont have a boost gauge with vac on it. My buddy is coming over as soon as he gets of work so I can use his gauge. I will post as soon as I have a number should be in an or so. I just go straight into the ecu. Which o2 sensor the front or back or it doesnt matter. If I go to the front 1 it should keep me frum throwing a code cause the front one is nto heated, right?

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1995240sxSE
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got my wideband installed and its 14.5 at idle and when I rev its the same. So i am good for idle. setting on safc are good then 2. so It has to either be a vac or iacv problem. I am waiting till a friend of mine comes over here with a diferent gauge to see why the idle is gay!


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