CA18.5DET Build-Up

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
DALAZ_68
Posts: 1574
Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2007 7:01 pm
Car: 90' 240sx CA18det

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talk about sick looking....awsomeness

as far as the gasket...why not make one???


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themadscientist
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looking good keep it up!

sicj
Posts: 113
Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2008 8:12 am
Car: 1987 Nissan 200sx hatch, 1992 240sx coupe

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To do list:-Get injectors tested-Make turbo lines-Make manifold/head lines (coolant/PCV/vacuum)-Install new misc. sensors-Finish up valve covers. (weld on AN fittings to PCV ports)-Custom mount 160amp alt.-Steal P/S stuff from friends non-op CA

Then it will be done and ready to drop in my '87 200sx hatch. can't wait!

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jt15833
Posts: 984
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Car: 95' 240SX
Location: Georgia

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i made my own oil pump gasket from cork paper or something from pep boys that is oil and coolant resistant and it's held up great.

sicj
Posts: 113
Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2008 8:12 am
Car: 1987 Nissan 200sx hatch, 1992 240sx coupe

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Yeah I wound up making my own. The gasket in the gasket kit was for the 4 port head with centralized injectrors.I went to the parts store and Mr.Gasket makes a 3ft. roll of gasket material. Time consuming, but easier and cheaper than trying to source a dirct fit OEM 8 port gasket.

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themadscientist
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my choice for oil and water pump gasket making material can be swiped from any office. It's great for thin gaskets, not for oil pans or things like that but for a paper type gasket between two machined surfaces fantastic.

Ca_Silvia
Posts: 912
Joined: Fri Nov 18, 2005 10:06 am

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You went to all the trouble of rebuilding this thing and you are running the stock turbo? Why man T28 are cheap?

sicj
Posts: 113
Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2008 8:12 am
Car: 1987 Nissan 200sx hatch, 1992 240sx coupe

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I actually planned on a full stock rebuild, but those darn pistons...haha.

The turbo is the last thing I'm thinking about. Also I'm not a half-asser like most and want to do my turbo setup right. I'm not the type of guy that'll slap on a T28 and injectors and run it. When I do upgrade I'm going tubular manifold, external wastegate, 460cc jectors, 18g, and Nistune to get it all running right. So that's quite a bit more than a basic $300-$500 T28

So as far as upgrades to the motor, it currently has: 84mm pistonsTomei valve springs Greddy belt (if you call that an upgrade)KA24E TBP&P headBalanced rotating assemblyArp studsCometic head gasketFidanza ultra lightweight flywheelElectric water pump

so out of 10 "upgrades", 7 of them will affect the power/performance of the engine differently than stock. I would say that's a fair amount to start with. I'll go towards bigger power adders later once the motor's broken in and I get bored of the power LoL.

but like 99% of us money is the limiting factor for a build.

Dilema: Get a mildly upgraded engine running or look at it on the engine stand with a shiney new turbo setup...? I'd rather drive it.

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ard
Posts: 98
Joined: Sat May 31, 2008 2:19 am
Car: 1989 200sx ca18det
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dont you want to get a proper high-port head without those crappy 8port runners?8port only gives you some torque on low rpm (~3000k rpm or so), but it become a restrictor at high rpms.

my 0.02$ - drive as it is. you can always change turbo after you brake-in an engine.btw get a GT28 from s15 SR, it is ball bearing and is less laggy.imho t25 is good for stock/mild tuned car ~200-220hp, t25g (from sr20det redtop) AR .80 for ~230-250hp and t28 for ~260-270hp or more.

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float_6969
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Car: CA18DET swapped 1995 Nissan 240sx (too many mods to list)
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Gettting a 4 port head here in the US is next to impossible. You have to have someone in the UK or Europe to find you one and mail it to you. Also, finding intake manifold gaskets can be a bit of a fight as well.

ragenasian
Posts: 981
Joined: Wed Feb 16, 2005 6:09 am
Car: AE86 w/CA18DET

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float_6969 wrote:Gettting a 4 port head here in the US is next to impossible. You have to have someone in the UK or Europe to find you one and mail it to you. Also, finding intake manifold gaskets can be a bit of a fight as well.
You just have to know who to ask

sicj
Posts: 113
Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2008 8:12 am
Car: 1987 Nissan 200sx hatch, 1992 240sx coupe

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wow I didn't notice this got brought back from the dead...

I will be updating this soon and it will be going into an engine bay shortly after that.

custom mount Maxima AlternatorAN turbo linesIAC linesmodify fuel rail for external regulatorclutch/flywheel

some of the things to come

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float_6969
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What's the ampacity of the Maxima alternator? Why not the Quest, IIRC it's rated to 200A.

sicj
Posts: 113
Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2008 8:12 am
Car: 1987 Nissan 200sx hatch, 1992 240sx coupe

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this maxima is 160a, didn't know about the quest or I woulda went with that

only things running off it will be 1 e-fan and an electric water pump and the normal lights, etc... no radio or HVAC system.

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float_6969
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Oh yea, the Quest would be overkill then anyway. I just hear about it a lot with the audio crowd.

I'll be running a hydro-electric PS setup, and was going to go with the Quest route to handle the extra amps, but the Maxima should be more than enough.

sicj
Posts: 113
Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2008 8:12 am
Car: 1987 Nissan 200sx hatch, 1992 240sx coupe

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yeah I was looking into the hydro PS actually, but imma try the water pump first.

what hydro pump? MR2? Mazda 3 (or was it 5?)

the cool thing about the maxima (which I didn't plan or expect) is the pulley is smaller than the stock CA alt. SO it will put out more at idle. schweet.

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float_6969
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I bought one from an MR2. How does the rest of the Maxima alty compare? Will the bottom fit in the stock bracket, or are you going to have to fab something up?

sicj
Posts: 113
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Car: 1987 Nissan 200sx hatch, 1992 240sx coupe

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yes the maxima bolts right in onto the oil pump/block.

I will have to make the upper bracket that connects to the water pump/top alt. hole for the tension adjustment.

it's VERY much a drop in alt. due to mounting/lining up to the crank pulley. Just make a custom top bracket and your done.

I will detail this when my fab metal gets delivered in a few days.

zero_gripS13
Posts: 619
Joined: Sat Oct 16, 2004 6:15 am
Car: soon to be 95 s14 hopefully

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quest is 110 unless it a newer one its 125..

what year maxima is it from and can u take pic please!!!

sicj
Posts: 113
Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2008 8:12 am
Car: 1987 Nissan 200sx hatch, 1992 240sx coupe

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zero_gripS13 wrote:quest is 110 unless it a newer one its 125..

what year maxima is it from and can u take pic please!!!
I don't know the part#...

but it's for these cars:INFINITI I30 1998-2001 V6 3.0LNISSAN MAXIMA 1996-2001 V6 3.0L

only pic I have of it...

I'll do a comparo later on.

zero_gripS13
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thanks alot man i can see by the pic its harder to install than the quest so ill stick with the quest thanks for the help

LEE_08
Posts: 49
Joined: Sat Sep 20, 2008 3:19 am
Car: Ca18det powered N13 pulsar & Ca18det powered datsun 1200 ute

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why would you bother with head studs when you are only using stock main bolts on the bottom end? you know that u can use RB25 main stud kit on the bottom end of a ca

sicj
Posts: 113
Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2008 8:12 am
Car: 1987 Nissan 200sx hatch, 1992 240sx coupe

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I'm not shooting for 400HP so stock main bolts will be fine.

I chose ARP head studs cause I'm bolting and aluminum head to a iron block with a steel gasket between the two. That's three different metals...I wanted good clamping force. The mains are iron on iron, so I wasn't concerned too much about them.

DALAZ_68
Posts: 1574
Joined: Mon Apr 09, 2007 7:01 pm
Car: 90' 240sx CA18det

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throttle body, u said KA...which?

sicj
Posts: 113
Joined: Fri Apr 25, 2008 8:12 am
Car: 1987 Nissan 200sx hatch, 1992 240sx coupe

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24E. with CA pulley... and I chopped half the CA pulley off where the cable would never touch.

zero_gripS13
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LEE_08 wrote:why would you bother with head studs when you are only using stock main bolts on the bottom end? you know that u can use RB25 main stud kit on the bottom end of a ca
id be more interested in rod bolts than mains..i dont really think the mains need it but stronger rod bolts would be great. erics performance on ebay sells em but wont disclose the information on what part numbers they are.

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r34 gtr
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zero_gripS13 wrote:
id be more interested in rod bolts than mains..i dont really think the mains need it but stronger rod bolts would be great. erics performance on ebay sells em but wont disclose the information on what part numbers they are.
So should I buy a set of these ARP rod bolts and

1) see if they actually fit, and

2) hook you guys up with the part number?

Ive got $55 RIGHT HERE, and I will buy them if you guys want me to. I mean, I want to, so long as it seems like a good idea.

EDIT: They aren't listed in the ARP master catalog, do they actually make them?

magmonster
Posts: 16
Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2008 5:37 pm
Car: 67-PL410 (bluebird) / CA18DE-T

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I bought a set of these a couple weeks ago for my DET build. THEY ARE ARP branded, but they came w/o any part numbers, and they are not the wav-loc style fastners. They are made from 8740 alloy, and they came with some photocopied install instructions and a small ARP lube pack.
r34 gtr wrote:
So should I buy a set of these ARP rod bolts and

1) see if they actually fit, and

2) hook you guys up with the part number?

Ive got $55 RIGHT HERE, and I will buy them if you guys want me to. I mean, I want to, so long as it seems like a good idea.

EDIT: They aren't listed in the ARP master catalog, do they actually make them?

zero_gripS13
Posts: 619
Joined: Sat Oct 16, 2004 6:15 am
Car: soon to be 95 s14 hopefully

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magmonster wrote:I bought a set of these a couple weeks ago for my DET build. THEY ARE ARP branded, but they came w/o any part numbers, and they are not the wav-loc style fastners. They are made from 8740 alloy, and they came with some photocopied install instructions and a small ARP lube pack.
too bad there not wave loc fasteners, but the added strength is what im looking for.

erics had arp custom make em according to them and wont disclose the part numbers.

the factory rold bolt doesnt have washers does it?

i want a set for insurance against rev limiter hitting and high revs during drifting since that what my motor is being used for ...

magmonster
Posts: 16
Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2008 5:37 pm
Car: 67-PL410 (bluebird) / CA18DE-T

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You are correct, there are no washers on the OE Nissan fastners.But, the ARP rod bolts are way better than the stock units. Even if they aren't wav-loc, or the newer alloy. I'm pretty sure that these are a really cost effective upgrade, seing as how rods bearing/bolt stretch seem to be a common point of failure in the CA. I doubt that I could even get new Nissan rod fastners for the price I paid on my set.
zero_gripS13 wrote:
too bad there not wave loc fasteners, but the added strength is what im looking for.

erics had arp custom make em according to them and wont disclose the part numbers.

the factory rold bolt doesnt have washers does it?

i want a set for insurance against rev limiter hitting and high revs during drifting since that what my motor is being used for ...


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