CA18.5DET Build-Up

[sicj]

PARTS LIST-Wiseco 84mm pistons-Fully balanced rotating assembly. Crank balanced, stock rods match, pistons matched.-ACL Race Series rod/main bearings-New OEM oil pump-Tomei 270 8.8mm cams, pulleys, and valve springs-Port/Polished head, secondaries, and manifold-Cometic MLS headgasket-ARP headstuds-KA24E throttle body-Ajusa full gasket kit-Greddy timing belt-Fidanza SR20 ultra lightweight 9.5lb flywheel-SPEC SR20 stage 4 clutch-Maxima N60 MAF-Magnafuel fuel pressure regulator-SARD R2D2 bov

everything else will be stock for the time being: turbo, manifold, wastegate etc...

didn't take any pics before I started tearing it apart :XL: lost a valve spring seat during the tear down/wash. So I have 15 out of 16 valves in now, waiting on Nissan to get the seats in.Tried positiong the squirter in. But the counterweight and rod hit near TDC. This is two washers and reposition.One washer and reposition to the outside of the piston. I also had to trim the locating tab on the squirter to turn it to the side.

more progress

...and some eye candy

more againUnpainted. Trash bag over oil pan. easy way to mask off the bottom end.



Flat black and metallic gold. Got bored and brought out the model paint and painted the NISSAN stamp on the block.

build stops until I get my cams. The original place I ordered from screwed it all up so now I have to go else where.

[DALAZ_68]

impressive...cant wait to see more...

[themadscientist]

so the wiseco pistons have no cutout for the piston oiler? You may as well take the oilers out and plug the hole; they are doing nothing for you aimed like that.

[float_6969]

Yea, i've heard that about the wiesco's. As TMS said, those squirters aren't doing much for you like that. You should have had the piston skirt notched to clear the squirter.

[sicj]

doing nothing? mmm ok.

the skirts ARE notched, it's the webbing around the piston pin that is interfering I'm not grinding the most important structural part of the piston away, especially when the engine will see upwards of 7,000 RPM regularly.

[float_6969]

IMHO, I'd be pissed at Wiesco and demand a refund, or at least a piston that works. The CP pistons fit just fine, what is so different about that piston that it interferer's with the squirter's?

[themadscientist]

doing nothing? mmm ok.

Guy, do you understand why that oiler is there and how it does it's job?

The CP pistons fit just fine, what is so different about that piston that it interferer's with the squirter's?

the wiseco has a short pin and the part of the piston where the piin is carried is right in the way of the oiler as a result. A regular piston runs longer pins that pass through the piston closer to the edge leaving plenty of open skirt to put a notch.

[zmannz]

So, I am keeping up with this thread to determine if saving a hundred bucks on wiseco over cp or other pistons is really worth it if I am going for a 300rwhp motor with insane reliability. I guess I should go with cp's? I think I want my oilers working correctly, I am going for a pretty high redline and moderate boost (shouldn't ever be going higher than 20 psi)

[sicj]

themadscientist

WOW I'm getting attacked for making something work. nice.

It's better to have it at least squirt on the piston. But in your mind if it's not in the stock location it's doing NOTHING. how can you say that? Isn't having it squirt period, better than nothing?

yes I do know what it's purpose is. It's to cool the piston tops from the extreme combustion temps, which would cause detonation if the pistons retained too much heat. among other things...

yes it sucks they aren't "drop in" but I was already screwed. I didn't pre test fit everything before I took it to the crank shop to get it all balance/blueprinted, and I was still machining the block. So the block wasn't done and the pistons/crank/rods were getting balanced. So I got everything back, the pistons were matched better than they were out of the box and then I assembled everything. Can't give back machined pistons... so I made the best of it.

[articzap]

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003...#CA18

Everyone hearts Tomei!!!!

[themadscientist]

themadscientist

WOW I'm getting attacked for making something work. nice.

It's better to have it at least squirt on the piston. But in your mind if it's not in the stock location it's doing NOTHING. how can you say that? Isn't having it squirt period, better than nothing?

yes I do know what it's purpose is. It's to cool the piston tops from the extreme combustion temps, which would cause detonation if the pistons retained too much heat. among other things...

yes it sucks they aren't "drop in" but I was already screwed. I didn't pre test fit everything before I took it to the crank shop to get it all balance/blueprinted, and I was still machining the block. So the block wasn't done and the pistons/crank/rods were getting balanced. So I got everything back, the pistons were matched better than they were out of the box and then I assembled everything. Can't give back machined pistons... so I made the best of it.

I not trying to attack you, I am trying to help you.

The squirter is doing very little for you because it is not aimed at the center of the piston now. The opposite side of the piston is going to get nothing. I see what you are saying about the piston, the way it's designed you don't have a choice. And thank you for showing us that; saved me from buying the same pistons. To get the full benefit of the squirters they need to spray at the center of the pistons. Would it be possible to carefully and I mean super carefully heat the business ends of the squirters and twist the tips to aim them at an angle? They want to shoot at 90 degrees to the seats of the banjo but it might I emphasis might be possible to twist the tips the 15 or so dergees off center so they shoot with a bit of a gangsta lean and hit the piston crown centered without being positioned directly under it.

[bentvalves]

yeea i hear you guys and all but then you have to look at the other side of the coin.

I know of a dude that kept blowing sr20det's left and right because of a sandy valve cover. There were no more DET blocks available, so a DE block was used. He made over 400whp and tracked the car hard, and to the best of my knowledge, is still running the DE block with NO oil squirters to this day.

so in conclusion, I would say that running them period, is better than not running them at all.

However, remember that an SR is aluminum and therefore the engine block itself will do a better job wicking heat away to other parts of the motor.

I say you'll be fine bro, from the past experiences of another fellow bro.

But just rock the sh*t out of it man, our world as we know it is on the brink of dissaster anyways.
Modified by ks13 at 8:31 AM 6/30/2008

[S@nt0s]

the oil squirters are needed for extreme conditions with CAST pistons, they are not REQUIRED for forged pistons.

yes they help cool the piston as cast will retain heat unlike a forged alum. piston

[bentvalves]

interesting, I've heard of people complain of oil squirters for windage reasons also.

[sicj]

since I will be running an electric water pump I needed to do something about the stock block-mounted water pump. The company I bought the electric water pump from suggested I cut the blades off the stock pump when using the electric pump.

I had a better idea. I would turn the stock pump into a block-off plate for the block.

So I chopped the pulley end off the pump and gutted everything.

Then I made a block-off plate for the end, as well as tapped some grub screws into the pump where there were two "leak" holes.

painted and bolted up.

[themadscientist]

what pump you runnin? I was thinking of using the stock pump run off an electric motor.

[bentvalves]

yea how will that now work, Im picturing an electric motor ontop the block of plate to rotate the impeller?

Greg

[meminto]

It will be an external pump routed into the coolant lines...

If you want to see what an example looks like, search "davies craig" in google and you should come across an inline electric pump..

[themadscientist]

dam but it's goofy looking!

[float_6969]

Here is the problem with the squirters in my mind. You are now going to be cooling one extreme side of the piston and not the other. My fear will be that the pistons won't heat evenly, causing them to expand at different rates and cause sealing problems and un-even wear on the pistons and cylinders.

IMHO, I'd take them out all together...

[themadscientist]

maybe go premix?

[float_6969]

LOL, that would make for great clearing of bee's

[meminto]

heheh yeah mate, they are goofy looking..

They are functional, they can be set to keep circulating water for a predetirmined amount of time when the engine stops..

But I would still rather a mechnical pump and decent thermo setup anyday

[sicj]

float_6969 - yes a valid point but eliminating the squirters all together will screw with the oil pressure. I think by capping them off there might be too much oil press. and flood the head, leaking past the valve stem seals...?

There are two styles of electric pumps. One retrofits an electric motor/tensioner/belt on the current block mounted pump and the other is in-line, eliminating the block mounted pump.

themadscientistI don't know what pumps those are but those are weird. I have a nice slim-line pump from Meziere about the size of a small coffee can. You install it in-line with the bottom radiator hose. I'm going to have it operate with a thermo/manual switch.

Which also brings up another issue, the alternator. Just by upgrading to an E-fan already taps out the stock alt's capacity, so I'm upgrading to a 160amp alt.

[sicj]

Here's a pic

[zmannz]

Can I ask what alternator you upgraded too and how it will mount?

[sicj]

zmannz - I'm going to find the cheapest 1 wire alternator and I will make a custom bracket to mount it.

[PapaBurgundy]

dam but it's goofy looking!

Oh snap! That must be a JDM turbocharger for your coolant, at least 50 whp!

[themadscientist]

Here's a pic

That's sexy right there.

If you capped the piston oilers the pressure would be fine, DEs have no oilers and the same pump as the DET. The regulator in the pump would see to a steady pressure.

[sicj]

*UPDATES*

Decided against the cams for now since there such a pain in the *** to get. I just want to get this thing done, in, and smash it. Plus I need that cash to get my oil cooler and fuel system setup

So I threw the stockers back in and threw the head on with some ARP studs and a Cometic head gasket.

Greddy timing belt



now I need to source the correct gasket from the head to the secondaries, then I can throw the manifold on.The one in my gasket kit is totally wrong. Any suggestions?