Built KA motor. What would you want?

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IvanAtSPRacing
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I wouldnt waste my time with the stock pistons. The material are just not good for HP and the lands are just too thin. No cryo treatment will help.

Look at the difference between the Arias and the stock piston. Rings are lower, thicker, thicker ring lands. Better material and forged to boot. Notice the cracked ring lands on the stock piston. Thats what 400whp gets you.

Much more material around the wrist pin.

Tops are dished to lower compression AND valve reliefs for those with higher lift cams. Man, they were thinking of everything.



Structure240sx
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mmm you could eat off the arias

IvanAtSPRacing
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Structure240sx wrote:mmm you could eat off the arias
You could eat off the stock pistons too.... Although you might get an upset stomach after that.




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Red-KAT
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I would like the option of good rods and a full cryo.

Structure240sx
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there is that option to anyone. you can have a custom built block by most shops to your specs. Ivan is looking for what the majority of people are looking to comprimise with for performance and price. he wants to have a certian number of engines in stock already built.

turtl631
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Exactly-and I think for most people who are running off some sort of budget and building what are mostly street cars, the basic rebuild with mostly OE stuff and some forged pistons would be good. I mean, how many people are running over 400 whp compared to those in the 250-320 range?

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turtl631 wrote:Exactly-and I think for most people who are running off some sort of budget and building what are mostly street cars, the basic rebuild with mostly OE stuff and some forged pistons would be good. I mean, how many people are running over 400 whp compared to those in the 250-320 range?
BINGO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

toki
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Ivan apperntly you didn't pick up a single thing I said. 10-12 psi will never ever ever ever do that to a stock piston unless you make some very grave error. Cryo treating does help ALOT, not only with strength but heat distribution (read: predetonation.) Companies that cryo treat internals have taken two identical motors, cryo treated one, left the other stock, and attempted to ping them by running them at rediculously low afrs. The stock motor they had no problem getting to ping all over the place, but the worst they could do to thier treated motor was get it to stall out from lack of fuel.

but hey, who am I? Your target consumer or something? Nah.

IvanAtSPRacing
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toki wrote:Ivan apperntly you didn't pick up a single thing I said. 10-12 psi will never ever ever ever do that to a stock piston unless you make some very grave error. Cryo treating does help ALOT, not only with strength but heat distribution (read: predetonation.) Companies that cryo treat internals have taken two identical motors, cryo treated one, left the other stock, and attempted to ping them by running them at rediculously low afrs. The stock motor they had no problem getting to ping all over the place, but the worst they could do to thier treated motor was get it to stall out from lack of fuel.

but hey, who am I? Your target consumer or something? Nah.
I am sorry you feel that I didnt give your thoughts any weight. I am not doubting the benifits of cryo treating parts. I am sure that there would be a benifit to doing this. But what is the cost difference between stock nissan piston and ring set AND cryo treatment versus a set of forged pistons? The forged units are $499. What about compression ratio differences? Dropping from 9.5 CR to 8.8 CR will also supress preigniton. Who has tested the strength of the stock slugs that have been cryo treated? What if the difference is 5%? Your ring lands crack at 420 WHP instead of 400 WHP. I really dont think I would want to risk it.

Making power in a KA is not that hard. It has become even easier with the AEM EMS being released. With EMS, it will be easy to turn the boost up knowing that the "tune" of your car is SAFE and you wont melt a piston. It will be EASY to break a factory ring land. Wouldnt you rather know that your pistons WILL handle the power and not that they MIGHT hold the power?

The major expense in building a motor is in the machine work and the assembly work. Depending on the parts you plan on putting in the motor, your probably paying more for the labor then the parts. I wouldnt risk my investment in labor to save a few bucks on parts.

Thanks again for your help.I DO appreciate it.


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Red-KAT
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http://www.onecryo.com/onecryo...g.htm

These are the people who Cryo'd my turbo... I like them they were quick.

Willfastbackse
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Ivan, you havent mentioned anything about the head. I am sure there are options but what comes standard with the base rebuild?

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Willfastbackse wrote:Ivan, you havent mentioned anything about the head. I am sure there are options but what comes standard with the base rebuild?
Glad you asked. Here is what I have been jotting down.

KA24DE-T Built Engine

HeadChecked for straightness, cracks, journal and combustion chamber damagePressure checkedGuides and seats checked for wear and replaced when out of specDisassembled & hot tanked3 angle valve job performedNew valve seals installedDecked for Cometic MLM gasketFully shimmed with cams installed

BlockChecked for damage, disassembled, hot tanked & magnafluxedChecked for straightness and squareAll freeze plugs and oil galley plugs removedOil galleys barrel cleanedDecked for Cometic MLM gasketBored .020” over and then honed utilizing a deck plateBrass plug on block deck removed, drilled, tapped & plugged with NPT plugNew freeze plugs & oil galley plugs installedBlock fully sealed with high temp engine paint

CrankshaftChecked for physical damage, straightness & balanceHot tanked, magnafluxed & micro-polished

Connecting RodsChecked for physical damage, magnafluxed & shot-peenedRods modified for ARP BBC rod fastenersAll rod ends are resizedRod sets are weight matched*OPTION for PAUTER rods $450*

Front cover / oil pumpChecked for physical damage, disassembled & cleanedRebuilt with modifications allowing higher oil pressure and greater flow

Long Block AssemblyProfessionally reassembledAll clearances checkedArias forged pistons 8.8CR Ring end gaps measured and file fitClevite bearings installed and plastic gaugedFelpro full gasket setFelpro head gasketNew Nissan upper and lower timing chains (lower factory upgrade)New Nissan upper and lower tensioners (factory upgrade)New Nissan upper and lower chain guides and bolts (lower factory upgrade)*OPTION for ARP main studs ARP head studs $289**OPTION for COMETIC MLM gasket $100*

The motor will be shipped to you fully assembled, cams installed, sitting at TDC on compression stroke. You install your intake, turbo system, distributor, etc. We will crate the motor and ship it to you damage free

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klattr1
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Sounds awesome. But now for the bad news... (price)

edit: just checked the link, my bad

turtl631
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lol, clearly, built engines are for the big ballers!

gabossie
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Are you going to have engines sitting around waiting, or would we have to ship ours to you, and then have it shipped back?

Ubernoober
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OMG, I just had one of those "uh-DUH" moments....

Please have the oil-pan pre-drilled for the turbo drainback. Preferably with plugged fitting/passthrough already in place.This will stop me from having to pull the pan you so kindly assembled!

IvanAtSPRacing
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I will be trying to keep two motors in stock at all times. One S13 and one S14. The only time I wont have a motor ready would be when I sell one and the next motor is in process at the machine shop or at my shop being built.

I can most certainly put an oil return fitting in the pan. (great suggestion) and could even tap the oil pressure sensor hole to 1/8-27 NPT if you like also.


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turtl631 wrote:lol, clearly, built engines are for the big ballers!
if you really think about it, $3599 shipped really isn't a bad price. my rough estimate of the list that he has put the price pretty close to his.

-demetrius

turtl631
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Oh, I'm not trying to say that his engines are overpriced, just that built engines in general are really quite expensive. I'm sure all the labor adds up...the list of things he's gonna do to the engine is like 30+ items long.

IvanAtSPRacing
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I need to change a couple things on the web page. I am using 200 bucks added to the price of the motor for shipping to lower 48. So drop that off the price if you want to come pick it up.

I would also need a core or 250 bucks for replacing the motor I am using.

If you notice, adding Pauter rods will only add 450 to the price of the motor. Rebuilding the rods, installing big block chevy ARP bolts, shotpeening, match weighting all adds up to about 250 bucks. So if you dont want anything done to the rods, knock 250 off that price.

As was stated before, the motor build as it stands is about the minimum I would do to have a motor that will last for 400hp blasts.

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For my motor in my car to run at 400whp all day everyday I'd swap out the pistons and rings and thats it. Assuming my bearings are in great shape. Not much else need be changed IMO. The rods will handle 400 in stock form, the stock bearings will do just fine and the stock fasteners will hold as well. The only weak point is the pistons.

The cacth is...why not swap out all the bearings and seals and have the whole rotating assembly worked over while its apart.

I know I could do it by myself, but can everyone else. Having the motor assembled by a good mechanic and done right the first time is worth a price that can't be put on paper.

MikeMurphy
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turtl631 wrote:lol, clearly, built engines are for the big ballers!
Gotta pay to play

MarkEmark
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IvanAtSPRacing wrote:I need to change a couple things on the web page. I am using 200 bucks added to the price of the motor for shipping to lower 48. So drop that off the price if you want to come pick it up.

I would also need a core or 250 bucks for replacing the motor I am using.

If you notice, adding Pauter rods will only add 450 to the price of the motor. Rebuilding the rods, installing big block chevy ARP bolts, shotpeening, match weighting all adds up to about 250 bucks. So if you dont want anything done to the rods, knock 250 off that price.

As was stated before, the motor build as it stands is about the minimum I would do to have a motor that will last for 400hp blasts.
Any kind of warranty on the built engines?

Is your shop the one building them/machining them, or is it some other machine ship? How much experience does this shop have/what kind of reputation? I'm not doubting that your stuff is top-notch but I'd rather have it coming from a place that's been building engines for years and has favorable reviews...

If we already have more aggressive camshafts installed in our engine, if we shipped you the camshafts would you install them in the engine instead of the OEM camshafts?

IvanAtSPRacing
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Our motor are 100% guaranteed against any failure due to workmanship by us or the machine shop.

In a perfect world where there are no issues with fuel delivery, timing, installation errors, etc, it would be easy to guarantee a motor against everything. Unfortunatly, its not a perfect world. So we wouldnt be able to eat the cost of melted pistons, bent rods, bearings damaged due to lack of oil or detonation. We will however reserve the right to help customers that have bad luck in those departments.

We have been building cars for the past 15 years. My experience goes back to the early 80s when I was working at my uncle's shop Chicago Engine Rebuilders. I was bitten by the bug and have been working on cars since then. I have owned probably close to 40 cars in the past 20 years that I have worked on and modified. I have been the shop forman at Sound Performance for the past 5 years. I dont just sit behind a desk and order parts or watch others work on cars. I am actually out in the shop and working on cars, developing new parts, solving problems, etc.

I will personally build every motor that we sell (as I have been doing for the past 5 years) My experience ranges from stock rebuilds to our 1300 crank HP monster 2JZ motors. I have done VG30detts (currently building one for one of our shop cars to hit 800whp) and many other motors including the SBF motor that just made almost 1400 crank HP on an engine dyno. I have all the tools necessary to measure, mic, gauge, file rings, etc.

Our automotive machine shop has been around FOREVER and has been doing all our machine work for the past 15 years. Bill is well versed in HP engine machineing. We recently had him build a deck plate for the KA to get the most precise hone possible. He is fully capable of going as crazy as you would want to go with coatings, o-rings, knife edging, cryo, vibration, magnetic resonance, etc etc... The sky is the limit.

We also have one of the best head porting companys in the country an hour drive from here. We use this company for all our race prepared 2Js.

I know its hard to think about investing 4k+ into a motor with no guarantee other then our reputation, so please check us out ( http://www.sound-performance.com ) and let us know if we can help you build a 240 you (and we) can be confident in.

Lastly, Yes, you can send us your cams and we will install them in the motor we build for you at no additional charge assuming no lash caps are needed. If they are stock base circle cams then we will be able to adjust them with factory shims.

gabossie
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I would definatly be down for this, but the cost of shipping my core to you, and you shipping the built motor back to me adds up quickly. This is a VERY good option for anyone remotely near their shop though.

IvanAtSPRacing
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The price included shipping to you (lower 48) and if you like, add 250 bux and dont send me a core.

yelnatsch517
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So all we need after getting one of your fully build motors is to add turbo, ecu, and exhaust, and we'll be pretty much good for up to 400hp? I'm looking into getting my 240 to 300-350whp that will be reliable enough to be daily driven. Anything else that will be needed that is related to the engine missing? I just want to get an estimate of the cost of getting my car completely reborn.

Also, at that price, its about the same as an rb25. How is getting your engine more cost-effective?

IvanAtSPRacing
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yelnatsch517 wrote:So all we need after getting one of your fully build motors is to add turbo, ecu, and exhaust, and we'll be pretty much good for up to 400hp? I'm looking into getting my 240 to 300-350whp that will be reliable enough to be daily driven. Anything else that will be needed that is related to the engine missing? I just want to get an estimate of the cost of getting my car completely reborn.

Also, at that price, its about the same as an rb25. How is getting your engine more cost-effective?
Yes, the motor is built to handle boost. Hitting 400whp wont break ring lands like on the stock motor. Plus the fact that everything else in the motor is new or remanufactured back to new tolerances. No leaky gaskets, Factory Nissan upgraded timing chains, guides and tensioners. Basically your starting out with a ZERO mile motor. Everything motor releated is there and done. Put a good quality turbo kit, fuel system, intercooler, engine management system, and exhaust and your set to go. Clutch, LSD, and a set of tires and drive your way into the 11s at the track or hang next to a BPU Supra on the highway. Show the LS1s some import love.

As far as getting an RB25 for your car. I think its a stretch that you will be able to find an RB25 with ECU, wire harness, trans, ignitor, etc for 4000 bux. Even if you do, then there is shipping on that. Then there is the 1200 bux you will need to spend for the motor mounts, trans mount, and driveshaft. Of course, you will need a radiator and fan that will work with the extended length of the motor and you will also need an intercooler that will fit. After everything is done and said, you have a ??? mile motor in questionable shape. I dont think that there is any real way to compare the two.

npaulseth
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For those of you who don't know, people drive all over to get their supra's done up at SP. They make top quality stuff, and are the first shop to mate a domestic auto transmission up to a 2jz, and sell it to customers with great results. I have a freind with the SP63 kit on his MKIV, and it is top notch quality. Spools like stock twins, and made 680 whp on a very safe tune. I would be more than confident in buying a motor through them.

Noah


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