"budget water injection" diy

[fo0manchu]

thats good to know with the afr's. I thought it sounded fishy when the article i was reading said low 10's. Goes to prove not to believe everything you read on the net.

Hey Neverlift, to pressurize your tank are you just running a hose to the tank with a check valve?

hahha, never mind, that is what you did. Just read up a couple posts and saw that.. My bad.

[WDRacing]

I have the big-ole-LM1 and I love it.

[neverlift]

thats good to know with the afr's. I thought it sounded fishy when the article i was reading said low 10's. Goes to prove not to believe everything you read on the net.

Hey Neverlift, to pressurize your tank are you just running a hose to the tank with a check valve?

hahha, never mind, that is what you did. Just read up a couple posts and saw that.. My bad.

My tank is not actually pressurized, yet

The tank I have has no provisions for a lid, yet. I have a make shift lid that keeps out contaminants and what not.. Been trying to find something that will seal up enough to pre prime the system. You should be able to run off a charge pipe, I'd go as far as saying on the hot pipe or comp housing. That way you dont see as much pressure loss and the WI system can stay ahead of the pressure in the manifold. I 've already tested a 20oz bottle with 10psi fed into the top. The water went shooting well before 10psi. It was proportional. But, keep in mind that pressure will decrease as water level drops due to larger area for the boost to cover before it can create actual pressure.

no experience on the lm1 but thats the pride and joy of innovative, is it not?(well passed tense.) My main thing with their products is the fact they use analog instead of digital. The latter being much faster.

While on the subject of w/b's I am thinking about running my gauge out to my afc and reading the afr off that, but location is not ideal.

[Seishuku]

The LC-1 can have both digital and analog, it's all fully programmable. Also, the analog gauge they have is VERY fast.I love my LC-1, best buy ever.

[WDRacing]

If you're going to pressurize a container you should use a PVC type reservoir. Very easy and cheap to build. Just grab some 4" PVC pipe and 2 4" ends. Drill a few holes for the various bungs that need to be attached and your done. Something else, since you drift, would be to fill the reservoir with something that keeps the water from sloshing away from the pumps etc. Running dry for even 1 second could be bad enough to pop a piston.

I was thinking about those plastic scrubby things, similar to steel wool but made from plastic. Just fill that dude up with the scrubbies and that will keep the water from moving around.

WD

[neverlift]

Like you told me wd dont use it as a bandaid... I am not, its main purpose for me is a cooler charge, at this time.. It would take some serious bumps to make the tank I have go dry. And my car is pretty much flat no matter how hard I'm after it. But that's a great point! That I'll be investing the 3 bux on.

BTW tested again this morning the nozzle is still working.

seishuku thought the lc1 was only analog for its processing(making the sampling much slower), its been some years so I could be miss remembering ?

[WDRacing]

I mentioned it more for others. It's something I have to think about since I'll be using a large trunk mounted tank.

[240cp]

I just pretty much breezed through this, but up top i saw that you Y'ed the two pumps into one line. I was toying around with this exact thing not to long ago. Sep i was just using a standard fuel injector. Anyway i found that when you feed one pump with the other the pressure picks up greatly. I put a pressure gauge on my setup and with the two y'ed together like you got, I had something like 20-25 psi. When i fed one with the other the pressure went up to almost 40 psi and the misting was vastly improved. Just something to think about. Excellent diy build by the way.

Edit: Just to further explain the pressure jump. What was happening was one pump was over powering the other and actually back feeding into the others resovoir. Defeating the point of the other pump. Ok just wanted to explain what was happening to me. Thanks

[neverlift]

thanks, just rewording stuff that has been done a million times by many different people/cars. If it help save a ka I'm happy , that gives me one more to blow up at a later time. I was blown away when I ran the pumps together, I should video it, shoots like 10foot with nothing to increase pressure(hose diam change). The nozzle mist got better as well.

I think it is a matter of back up, the nozzle cannot flow the amount of water being produced by one pump, let alone two.

[Doya]

I should video it, shoots like 10foot

Thats what she said

[neverlift]

Thats what she said

and

edit; btw, CSI is working fine still the mmo solves the corrosion issues, IMHO take it for what you will.

[Doya]

Where did you get your hobbs pressure switch from. I was thinking about using this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...ories

[neverlift]

dont know about quality, but its usa made so it should be a go, buy 2 for less than a single hobbs. damn.

[WDRacing]

Great link dude. I'll be buying a few of those for sure.

[Doya]

So you think those are just as good as a Hobbs.

[neverlift]

made in usa... plus they are designed for this"claimed" anyways.test it a billion times on the bench

[Doya]

Alright, cool. Now I just need to find a CSI

[neverlift]

toyota/saab/bmw/volvo lots to choose from just take your pick

[Doya]

I was thinking about using the one on my '89 Supra, It's just going to sit for the winter. I might just do that

[neverlift]

see how low cost it is, you are looking at what 15 bux shipped for you setup before mmo and whatever fluid you use.

that thing should move so water though so bench test to make sure it wont be too much.

[Doya]

How much is too much.

[neverlift]

Depends on a bunch of things. You want a mist, not drops. You dont want to over cool the egt or you can unspool the turbo as I was informed. I have mine on at I think 7psi and I dont have any boost drop off from my CSI coming on. I run between 8~11psi form day to day.

[Doya]

So say I run 8psi, what should I set the pressure switch at, like 5psi.

[neverlift]

If the csi does not flow too much water I do not see a problem. WD anything on this?

[neverlift]

still working 100% guys

The MMO cleared any chance of corrosion clogs :]

[WDRacing]

If the csi does not flow too much water I do not see a problem. WD anything on this?

Sorry, didn't see this get bumped.

If it bogs you'll need to reduce pressure from the pump with a rheostat or something along those lines.

[neverlift]

also note suck through sucks blow through ftmfw

[WDRacing]

If using a tuned ecu or SAFC then you can compensate for the temperature differences between that the MAF see's when moved from pull through to push through. You have to remember that the MAF/ECU/IAT/Water Temp are all pre configured to matching maps. The MAF measures the voltage it takes to heat the sensor. So when in the standard pull through config, it's pulling in ambient temp air. Air that is far cooler then post FMIC air. So by moving the MAF to a push through config you're actually altering what maps are being used. Since it will obviously take less heat to make the element reach the required temp, it should be reducing duty cycle because the ecu now thinks it's getting less air then it actually is.

That's how I understand it to work. Maybe I'm wrong, but altering the MAF signal affects all the load maps, fuel and timing. That's one of the main reasons I don't like the SAFC.

I'll stick with pull through. The only thing that push through allows you to do is vent the BOV to the atmosphere. Hardly worth the potential problems IMHO.

But I can see why you ricers would like it

[neverlift]

I wont go into the better gas mileage and faster warm ups, beyond the drive ability is much "cleaner".

I tried it both ways on the stock afm and the n60 I am currently using. Suck through sucks IMHO. And yes I had the bov recirc wd. Even without a bov I did not care for the lower performance I was seeing, and the constant richness. I had to change my oil in less than 300 miles after going suck through. Massive fireballs all the time was cool though, but I doubt a flame from the front of my car(dp) to the rear is saving any gas or helping performance.

[fo0manchu]

Can you run a water injection nozzle before the turbo in a blow through set up??