Well, just came up from the garage. Still not running. Completely went thru the fsm, as well as taking your ideas (lexcrob) into consideration and still nothing. For the moment in time, I give up. I dont know if I have been looking at it for so long that I just can't see the obvious problem or what it is, gona try to get one of my friends to come over and take a look at it this weekend.
So, after that I went back to the design project. Im going to kind of photo dump here, and try to show my plan. On my red 240, I already have the PBM Max Angle Kit installed, and as with most people running it I have massive clearance issues. The most difficult to correct of those issues are the tension rod, and swaybar contact. This is going to be my attempt at it. I am going to use a panhard bar mount piece that is sold by Bicknell Race Products (
http://www.bicknellracingproducts.com/) This is where we purchased every piece for the sportsman modified i used to race. all high quality aluminum bracketry that is designed for race conditions.
this is a very quick illustator design of my plan for the front control arm, sway bar mount location, and tension rod design. As I actually order the parts in I'll post up part numbers and places to order the pieces from.
Anyways, this is the design.
Picture of where I am hitting on the red hatch.
Few pics of the space it will clear up.
Here is the bracket itself
Now, if tha all works, my next dilemma will be the sway bar. On the truck, there is slightly over 1.5" of clearance between the oilpan and the sway bar. If i move the swaybar 1.5" it should move it completely out of the contact zone. Below is a picture of the available space to slide the sway bar back.
This will mean relocating the swaybar mount location on the lca, but shouldnt be an issue, even if you are modifying an aftermarket one. as long as you have access to a welder and a way to cut metal you should be in business.
Kindof un related because i plan on changing this design on the truck, bu this is the tierod setup on the hatchback. its an example of how im going to do the hyme joints on the suspension arms.
This setup is extremely durable. I can drop the wheel off the track with no worries of bent tierods. At a track day some one clipped a corner to close and pulled a tire out onto the track and I hit it with the left front wheel mid slide. This would have undoubtedly bent a standard tierod, where as with this it didnt change the alignment at all. The downfall to this design was how far it moved the inner tierod pivot point out. it is fine for track use, but on uneven surfaces it drastically increased bumpsteer.
oh... and this is what i got accomplished last night.

yeah, lots of nothing basically.