Best setup for fun street car

[S3t0_S13]

hahahaha hell yea man props to you, for being able to keep at it for soo long, if it wasnt the money problem, id have a fully built KA boosting right now, but now its sittin with low compression, ready to spit something out.hahabut yea ill be sure to not the girls find out about this, cuz if you can afford to blow thousands of dollars on your silly little engine, then you shouldnt have a problem for me! so i usually keep on the down low about these kind of things but yea, if i could invest that much into my KA, full rebuild with a port polish is coming soon, then a really nice greddy or such turbo kit, hey man, its all about quantity, and not being every other damn 240 out there with a SR swap in it blegh POWER 2 THE KA!

[jrb92se]

when i had my s14 i was gonna build a ka-t until i ran into some kid that already had one and was having alot of problems keeping it running properly, i know there are alot of people that have kats that run great but they are tuned perfectly and most likely have built internals, i already had a bunch of parts id bought for it but i just decided its not the best way to go; niether was an sr. i was saving to get the rb swap when i wrecked the s14. then i sold the wrecked car to xat and they had the s13 with rb already installed so i just bought it. it would be cool to be able to build your own turbo kit and stuff and im not hating on the ka-t i wanted one at one point also; everyone has an sr. but a 350-400 hp ka-t is not going to be nearly as reliable as a 400 hp-450 hp rb (i drive about 110 miles a day stop n go). thats just my opinion on the subject either way you go youll have a fun car to drive.

[S3t0_S13]

hmm i see, well for now im stuck, i dont have the money for a SR or RB swap, my engine is kinda old (150,000K) and im in california, so any swap is out of the question. a rebuild for now, with some racing internals sounds decent, and upgrade to a turbo later on is visual check OK, i could find a guy 2 pass me for smog, and id be good. these damn cops here now have freakin handbooks!, have pics of what your car should have in there stock enginethey have em for nissans, toyotas, hondas and stuff, never see a damn domestic car get pulled over for being so damn loud and having a superchager or a big block in it their jus hatin man haha

but yea, im leanin toward KA-T soon, as of now KA rebuild

[Suicide.Veteran]

eeeee. low trim t25 pushing 10 psi on 370cc injectors with a z32 maf KA-T, tuned. light setup, and can be done for under to around 1000. It is very streetable and has a good pull.

[ADiamond75]

when i had my s14 i was gonna build a ka-t until i ran into some kid that already had one and was having alot of problems keeping it running properly, i know there are alot of people that have kats that run great but they are tuned perfectly and most likely have built internals, i already had a bunch of parts id bought for it but i just decided its not the best way to go; niether was an sr. i was saving to get the rb swap when i wrecked the s14. then i sold the wrecked car to xat and they had the s13 with rb already installed so i just bought it. it would be cool to be able to build your own turbo kit and stuff and im not hating on the ka-t i wanted one at one point also; everyone has an sr. but a 350-400 hp ka-t is not going to be nearly as reliable as a 400 hp-450 hp rb (i drive about 110 miles a day stop n go). thats just my opinion on the subject either way you go youll have a fun car to drive.

Still got your parts?

[S3t0_S13]

eeeee. low trim t25 pushing 10 psi on 370cc injectors with a z32 maf KA-T, tuned. light setup, and can be done for under to around 1000. It is very streetable and has a good pull.

under a 1000? wat parts did u have exactly? cuz i dont think a T25 along with a Z32 MAF and all your other parts coulda been that cheap!! if so please let me know how!!!!!!!!

[wesae86240MK2]

Hey man i qould go with the ka na man i think that is the only way to go i like the sr and i like the ka-t but they have their dissadvantages and if you go with an NA motor you will not have any lag under 2500 RPMS and im sure you have heard of the KA's potential as a naturally aperated motor. so i would def go with the ka na because we need to keep the NA's strong and show what they can do.

[jrb92se]

ive got a turbo (rb20 ghey) and an oil cooler i sold alot of it to buy the rb car

[ADiamond75]

for an NA build to be streetable it would only put out about 200HP at best

[S0lid_Snake]

ok, i read most of the posts, and i realize this question was like 30 posts ago, but i will answer it anyway. compression creates heat, heat can melt an engine. 15:1 compression makes a heluva lot of heat. 8:1 creates much less, so you let the turbo compres the air outside the engine, then run it through an IC, so its close to ambient temperature, but theres "twice" as much of it compaired to stock. this way you get less heat than the high compression, but the same power. if i am wrong someone correct me, but no one would have posted if i hadnt made the attempt

[wankelTII]

thats part of it, but someone did explain also that boost of any kind adds more air than an N/A engine would be able to draw in, reguardless of CR and more air and fuel is what makes more power.

There is alot of incorrect info in this thread and i dont have the time or the patience to explain everything.

To the post starter, it sounds like you may be focusing too much on small things and trying to cut costs in the most important areas. If you want a reliable car that is finished one day, then stick to the basics, and keep everything as simple as possible. If you are going to build the engine then leave the stock compression, stroke, and bore, or leave it as close to stock as possible. Its a 2.4 liter cast iron block, why would you want anything more than 2.4 liters out of a 4 cylinder and why would you want to waste your money sleeving something that is really strong already? Use forged internals, high quality bearings, and talk to the company that you choose to buy your pistons from about coatings to reduce wear. Keep the head work mild also, and look for a turbo cam, i think HKS might make one. You said you didnt want lag, but then you said you bought a turbo off of a diesel truck? You need to sell that thing and just buy a GReddy turbo kit or something that comes with tuned fuel management. If the stock kit isnt enough for you, call up GReddy and talk to someone there that knows what they are talking about and see if you can get the kit with an intercooler and an emanage ultimate (with harness adapter) tuned or at least with a good baseline. If you dont take this route then save a BIG chunk of money for tuning because it takes like 10 hours or more for a professional to get a decient tune for the street when you are starting from scratch. Thats alot of dyno time and alot of money.

[ADiamond75]

thats part of it, but someone did explain also that boost of any kind adds more air than an N/A engine would be able to draw in, reguardless of CR and more air and fuel is what makes more power.

There is alot of incorrect info in this thread and i dont have the time or the patience to explain everything.

To the post starter, it sounds like you may be focusing too much on small things and trying to cut costs in the most important areas. If you want a reliable car that is finished one day, then stick to the basics, and keep everything as simple as possible. If you are going to build the engine then leave the stock compression, stroke, and bore, or leave it as close to stock as possible. Its a 2.4 liter cast iron block, why would you want anything more than 2.4 liters out of a 4 cylinder and why would you want to waste your money sleeving something that is really strong already? Use forged internals, high quality bearings, and talk to the company that you choose to buy your pistons from about coatings to reduce wear. Keep the head work mild also, and look for a turbo cam, i think HKS might make one. You said you didnt want lag, but then you said you bought a turbo off of a diesel truck? You need to sell that thing and just buy a GReddy turbo kit or something that comes with tuned fuel management. If the stock kit isnt enough for you, call up GReddy and talk to someone there that knows what they are talking about and see if you can get the kit with an intercooler and an emanage ultimate (with harness adapter) tuned or at least with a good baseline. If you dont take this route then save a BIG chunk of money for tuning because it takes like 10 hours or more for a professional to get a decient tune for the street when you are starting from scratch. Thats alot of dyno time and alot of money.

Thanks for the reply. I have already bought crower rods and have a set of 9:1 wiesco pistons but will prob go with some arias 8.8:1 pistons (better rings from what I have heard) and the pistons came with the rods, so i can always sell the pistons. Money is turing into not as much of an issue as far as tuning goes, its now officially a project car and if it take 3 years to get it on the road so be it. I am also looking into the FullRace manifold cause I can't find anything that will put the holset where I want it. If anyone knows of a less expensive one that will be topmount and keep the turbo away from the brake booster let me know ( the full race one is $1400).

From what I have seen from several other threads and talking with two people that have ran the holset, full boost is at 3500 rmps, which isn't bad if the motor is built to rev to 7K or beyond. I also have some other things I am currently researching to make the power band where I want it (i.e. cams with mid power curve, custom intake manifold, the fullrace exhaust manifold, good porting)

I am also looking into having the block, head, manifold, downpipe and pistons heat coated to keep heat down low and out of the engine bay, buddy of mine that builds race motors is heading up this portion of the build for me (said something about aircraft heat coatings but that is down the road so more details later).

Overall, in a few years I should have a nice little toy, maybe sooner.

But like I said, please post up more sugestions. Also, if the holset turns out to be to laggy, it could be a VERY easy part to replace considering all the other money I am planning on spending.

I will probably not sleeve the block anymore, looking into other fun ideas ... anyone know who makes an aftermarket crank out of crazy materials (light and strong)?

I am also trying to find an RB20 flywheel for under $400, its the next thing I'm buying (clutch setup) If anyone knows where to get one let me know, I may have found a stock one, but an aftermarket lightend one would be nice.

[wankelTII]

Well, there is really no reason to lower the compression. And I dont know what kind of budget you have, but again you sound like you are focusing on the wrong things. Your eyes might be bigger than your wallet, i know i have been guilty of this and i am sure everyone else has at some point or another. You would be better off to do a basic engine build with forged internals and spend your money on a really nice turbo, intercooler, fuel management, better/safer fuel delivery, radiator, LSD - help get some of that power to the ground... etc.

Best advice ever: Stick to the basics and (K.I.S.S.) Keep It Simple, Stupid (no offense)

[ADiamond75]

Well, there is really no reason to lower the compression. And I dont know what kind of budget you have, but again you sound like you are focusing on the wrong things. Your eyes might be bigger than your wallet, i know i have been guilty of this and i am sure everyone else has at some point or another. You would be better off to do a basic engine build with forged internals and spend your money on a really nice turbo, intercooler, fuel management, better/safer fuel delivery, radiator, LSD - help get some of that power to the ground... etc.

Best advice ever: Stick to the basics and (K.I.S.S.) Keep It Simple, Stupid (no offense)

NP

I already have a stock VLSD and may be buying a helica soonHere are a list of things already considered and prob gonna go with/research further1.)Looking at the AEM EMS unless i find something out there I like better ... this will be a question later on, I'm not there yet but I am expecting to spend 1000-1500 for engine managment and another $500 for fuel delivery.2.)As far as getting it to the ground, I'm looking into a RB20 flywheel and 350z clutch (ACT stage 1) and a one piece driveshaft. (again another $1500)3.)Then there is the valvetrain (another $1000)4.)The machine work (around $1000, including balancing, and assembly of the short block [I just don't trust myself with that])5.)Already have a Koyo aluminum and electric fans (although I may buy some better fans)6.) Tuning (alot of cash.)7.) Intercooler ( I dunno, I can't find anything that will fit without cutting a bunch of stuff - PLEASE RECOMMEND SOMETHING)Some other things I am thinking about and researching1.) Gauges (boost, oil pressure, volt, water temp, oil temp) Gonna look at this at the same time as enigine managment, I'm guessing I can spend another $500 here real easy2.) Boost controler (haven't even looked yet)3.) Built transmission (really nessisary with 400 HP max?)4.) Anyone know of any crazy cranks for the ka?5.) Aftermarket intake plenum (I would like to do this but it is the only place I think $500 can be better spent)6.) heat shields for the turbo, BMC and other crucial components (I think I'm gonna have to fab up all my own stuff here)

As far as the cash issue goes, yeah, I have prob bitten off more than I can chew, but at this point another 2-3k isn't gonna matter and I had planned on it costing 5k. So far I've spent $1000 and have the rods, some pistons (don't know if I'll use em yet), manifold (but I don't like it), turbo, and everything needed if changing the waterpump, timing chain and all belts.

I want it right the first time, I am patient, and determined and have a daily driver. There is no real rush to get this back on the road other than I want my toy back)

As far as lowering the compression, with 9.5:1 and 15psi boost wouldn't I start to get detonation?

[180fan]

7. you can have an intercooler that will fit your dimensions made. pick up something like a spearco core and some garrett end tanks.

2. boost controller, probably the best one on the market is the avc-r. 3. work on the transmission probably won't be necessary at 400, although you may want to consider using a z32 transmission and having the bellhousing modified to fit your application. At 400+ you should also consider looking into stronger axles.

9.5 and 15psi, depends on the octane you're using, other modifications you've got at the head and such. This is something you should consult with your tuner and depending on the work that's getting done at the head, don't assume you'll have a 9.5:1. Minor stuff like head gasket thickness, cylinder bore and work at the head can change this figure. Consult your machinist for all the final measurements before giving your tuner some info that could be off.

[wankelTII]

9.5:1 compression is fine

I would get a cusco clutch style lsd, if you think you might ever do any DE events or anything like that. I would suggest buying a small transmission cooler and pump, a small diff cooler and pump, and a small oil cooler. If you ever have any cooling problems sell that koyo and talk to Ron Davis about making you one.

[ADiamond75]

Thanks for the info, after I went to the Koyo the engine barrley ever got hot here in Texas. I think with electric fans I should be peachy, but you never know. Yeah, I am deffinatly thinking about an oil cooler.

Axles? Really? what can I use? I have ABS / five lug / VLSD stock

[180fan]

you should be able to pull the axles off a j30 or off a skyline to get some oem reliability without busting the bank that'll take a bit more of a thrashing than your stock 40 axles.

[ADiamond75]

you should be able to pull the axles off a j30 or off a skyline to get some oem reliability without busting the bank that'll take a bit more of a thrashing than your stock 40 axles.

Will the j30 axles fit without modification?

[180fan]

the j30 axles will need a j30 diff. the r32 axles will bolt right up to a 5 bolt output shaft on the diff for the s13, not too sure about the s14 though. I'd assume they would, but I'd take a measurement of the axles end to end before going out and buying stuff.

[ADiamond75]

the j30 axles will need a j30 diff. the r32 axles will bolt right up to a 5 bolt output shaft on the diff for the s13, not too sure about the s14 though. I'd assume they would, but I'd take a measurement of the axles end to end before going out and buying stuff.

good to know, I like the final gear of the j30 anyways but wsa thinking of getting a s15 Helica Diff. Will The j30 axles work with it and how do I deal with the ABS sensor?

[ADiamond75]

OK ... so I'm gonna bring this back from the dead cause I have another question that is specific ....

On a KA24de-t, which valves are gonna give better performance and can people give me feedback that have used these before

Ferrea 1mm oversized valvesSupertech .5 oversized intake and .7 oversized iconnal exhaust.

Which of the two would be better and are there any other options out there that are better than these two?

[180fan]

Might want to post this question in the KA-T section. I'm not familiar enough with the KA's anymore since it's been a while since I've needed to do some work on em. Just right off the bat though, I'd probably suggest the Ferrea's but that's something you and your machinist should talk about since I haven't seen the other things you may or may not have done to try to increase the flow of your head. Inconel's awesome and all but unless you plan on doing a major service within 40k to check over the wear on the valve guides, it's not really something I'd suggest for a daily if that's what you're planning on.

[ADiamond75]

Thanks for the reply, that was good info on the check up at 40k ... so iconal valves have a higher failure rate ... prob only a 5-7 hp gain to ... they are out

[redtop91]

There should be an option for scrap the KA and buy something else.

[180fan]

It's not the inconel has a higher failure rate. Inconel takes heat much better than steel, stainless, or other metals that you'd commonly see used for valves. Problem is that it's also alot harder. That hardness will come into play when you figure the bronze alloys that are used for valve guides is much softer than the inconel. Wear will be your enemy.

larger valves are a great idea, but depending on the materials of the valves and other parts around it, will dictate how long your service intervals will be, which is why I suggested talking to your machinist about your goals and what you're willing to sacrifice for those goals. Getting a good valve job with swirls should be enough to make you not really care about the oversize and exotic metals. I forget though, did you change your valve guides as well?

[ADiamond75]

It's not the inconel has a higher failure rate. Inconel takes heat much better than steel, stainless, or other metals that you'd commonly see used for valves. Problem is that it's also alot harder. That hardness will come into play when you figure the bronze alloys that are used for valve guides is much softer than the inconel. Wear will be your enemy.

larger valves are a great idea, but depending on the materials of the valves and other parts around it, will dictate how long your service intervals will be, which is why I suggested talking to your machinist about your goals and what you're willing to sacrifice for those goals. Getting a good valve job with swirls should be enough to make you not really care about the oversize and exotic metals. I forget though, did you change your valve guides as well?

they will be replaced at the same time ... along with everthing short of the block itself at this point .. I have gone alittle crazy.

[ADiamond75]

There should be an option for scrap the KA and buy something else.

I'm gonna drive to Tulsa just to drive circles around you if I ever stop spending money and put it back together.

[redtop91]

400 rwhp will be waiting to greet you.

[ADiamond75]

I'll make sure to put down more then that then