Best setup for fun street car

[ADiamond75]

OK, the search feature actually turned up an answer for me this time, so the stock CR is 9.5 according to the thread I found a previous responces in here ... just goes to show that I can learn something new every day.

Now on to the question, why would 10:1 CR be bad if I make the motor built and don't run alot of boost?

Wouldn't it give me good low end torque that way and keep the power band pretty even?

[ADiamond75]

OK ... I have done some thinking and someone please explain this to me so that I can understand it.

From what I have searched and read you never realy wanna go over 15:1 CR with boost. So, that's why people run lower start up CR to reach 15:1 with boost later on and avoid detonation and other annoying things that make motor go BOOM.

So here is my question, what is the advantage of running a lower CR just to raise it up with boost?

Couldn't you get the same results simply by running a higher CR motor and less boost which would spool faster? Someone please explain to my nOOb a$$ why lower CR and higher boost is a better way to go. I may change my mind about what CR to use in the build. And also, can you still get good low end response with a lower CR motor.

I am really looking for a nice smooth torque and HP curve that is fun to drive in the top end but responsive at the low end also.

[Fahaka]

I am really looking for a nice smooth torque and HP curve that is fun to drive in the top end but responsive at the low end also.

Then don't get a turbo...torbo's have to spool up before they can pressurize incomming air and there are many factors to determine what turbo to use.

Find someone who has a turbo ka and then go for a fide in it, if you like it copy their setup. If you can't find a KA in your area, copy one that you think you will like. KA's have big strong exhaust pulses, so they spool a turbo pretty fast...you may like a t3/t4 with a small a/r like 45-55mm...which will make boost faster...

If you don't want any spool time a supercharger works differently, but you may not like it either. The ultimate in smooth torque curves comes from NA engines so...maybe a turbo isn't for you...LS1

[ADiamond75]

Then don't get a turbo...torbo's have to spool up before they can pressurize incomming air and there are many factors to determine what turbo to use.

Find someone who has a turbo ka and then go for a fide in it, if you like it copy their setup. If you can't find a KA in your area, copy one that you think you will like. KA's have big strong exhaust pulses, so they spool a turbo pretty fast...you may like a t3/t4 with a small a/r like 45-55mm...which will make boost faster...

If you don't want any spool time a supercharger works differently, but you may not like it either. The ultimate in smooth torque curves comes from NA engines so...maybe a turbo isn't for you...LS1

OK .. .thanks for the reply but ..... I was asking why does having a lower CR make more power when you boost with more preasure ... maybe I wasn't clear.

It is my understanding that the maximum CR with boost you can achieve safely is around 15:1 CR while running pump gas. When you run 8.5:1 or 8:1 cr this allows you to run more boost because reaching the critical 15:1 limit takes more boost, with 9.5:1 the ammount of boost you can run before you reach 15:1 is lower, yet both will have the max CR of 15:1 before detonation happens, so what is it that causes a 8:1 CR motor with 20 psi of boost to put out more HP then a 9.5 CR motor with 7psi of boost when they both end up with the same level of compression?

And yeah, supercharger is the way I would really like to go, just need to see how the Knight Kit pans out before I jump in all giddy!

And No, I do not want an LS1, sticking with Nissan stock motor, call me a purist if you want, thats just the way I'm gonna do it.

I have ridden in a number of turbo KA's and SR's, I like the pull of the KA down low, yet under 2.5k RPM's they still seem slugish to me ... maybe it's cause they were all 8:1 CR with big turbos .. I dunno
Modified by ADiamond75 at 4:59 PM 9/1/2006

[artemous]

Its all about the way its built. A formula 1 engine can produce 1100 hp from 1.6 liters but only has a power band from 16,000 to 21,000 rpm's. Yet a viper motor produces more torque before 2000 than the formula can at its peak.

It all has to do with turbo sizing and trims for turbos. Nitrous is good but to me its like saying "I'm cheap and don't know how to build a real engine" With the exception of the real tuners who add it on top of their alrealy built 500+ monsters. (1000 for big v-8's)

A t28 can give great responce if trimmed right. Or can give tremondous hp if trimmed the other way.

In either case you want a very small gain (250hp max) with a stock engine or you'll be sitting on the side of the road in very short time. Blown head gaskets seem to be prevalent with power adders.

My take build a good engine, 9.0:1 CR, total seal plasma moly rings, stainless or better valves, professional mild porting, 248 nismo cams, balancing, and a mild t28 or T3/t40e hybid. Powerband starting at about 2500, peak hp about about 275-300. If you want a real adder with that, add a methanol injection kit and run NO timing retard. It'll give you another 50 hp. But you'll be running to the store for methanol like others are for nitrous.

Methanol contains oxygen but not as much as nitrous and has an octane rating of 124.

Iwouldn't run a scraper, our not running that kind of rpm's to be of value. Have the crank knife edged, it'll make it lighter witch will help more.

As for the 15:1 CR magic number. Its hogwash. the "magic number" has to do with combustion chamber design, octane rating, cam timing, ignition timing, boost, intake temp, rpm's, etc. It varies from engine to engine. It even varies slightly from identical engine to identical engine. I've know blown engines running over 20:1 under boost. Compute 7.5:1 x 45psig?

To build what you want, you have to give specifics desired (milage, rpm range, power band, budget, altitude, temperature, etc) then maybe we can give the best ideas.

BTW, I love the hood, where did you get it. Not to agressive but nice.

[ADiamond75]

Its all about the way its built. A formula 1 engine can produce 1100 hp from 1.6 liters but only has a power band from 16,000 to 21,000 rpm's. Yet a viper motor produces more torque before 2000 than the formula can at its peak.

It all has to do with turbo sizing and trims for turbos. Nitrous is good but to me its like saying "I'm cheap and don't know how to build a real engine" With the exception of the real tuners who add it on top of their alrealy built 500+ monsters. (1000 for big v-8's)

A t28 can give great responce if trimmed right. Or can give tremondous hp if trimmed the other way.

In either case you want a very small gain (250hp max) with a stock engine or you'll be sitting on the side of the road in very short time. Blown head gaskets seem to be prevalent with power adders.

My take build a good engine, 9.0:1 CR, total seal plasma moly rings, stainless or better valves, professional mild porting, 248 nismo cams, balancing, and a mild t28 or T3/t40e hybid. Powerband starting at about 2500, peak hp about about 275-300. If you want a real adder with that, add a methanol injection kit and run NO timing retard. It'll give you another 50 hp. But you'll be running to the store for methanol like others are for nitrous.

Methanol contains oxygen but not as much as nitrous and has an octane rating of 124.

Iwouldn't run a scraper, our not running that kind of rpm's to be of value. Have the crank knife edged, it'll make it lighter witch will help more.

As for the 15:1 CR magic number. Its hogwash. the "magic number" has to do with combustion chamber design, octane rating, cam timing, ignition timing, boost, intake temp, rpm's, etc. It varies from engine to engine. It even varies slightly from identical engine to identical engine. I've know blown engines running over 20:1 under boost. Compute 7.5:1 x 45psig?

To build what you want, you have to give specifics desired (milage, rpm range, power band, budget, altitude, temperature, etc) then maybe we can give the best ideas.

BTW, I love the hood, where did you get it. Not to agressive but nice.

OK .. I'll answer your questions first ...

The Hood ... custom made, the car was wrecked on the rearend real bad and I had some customization doen while it was getting fixed, the entire car was redone on the outside and some on the inside, it is still the factory hood that came on the car, just had a few 'changes' made to it. Got the idea from the DYI hood thread here on NICO.

Budget for build - 4.5-5.5 k

altitude - Houston Texas, Austin Texas, slightly above sea level in otherwords

Milage - I put about 500-1000 miles a week on my car as a daily driver, currently I have a honda accord for this since my motor kinda died, but I hate it and want the 240 back up and running soon

RPM powerband range - 2k - 6k (or 2.5-6.5)... thats all I realy want.

Heat - it freaking hot here !!! Summers hit the triple didgets often, that was one of the reasons for the hood ... trying to let some of the heat escape, and yeah, it worked ... at idle you can see the heat vapors leaving from those to vents.

HP and torque goals - around 250 for each, but if I can get 350 of each and maintain daily driving ability, I'll do it, I just want the car to be responsive.

I have planned on having the head ported, using CP pistons, or Arias, Arias turbo rods (or crower if I find em at a good price), Crower cams and valve springs/retainers, Supertech valves, or Crower if I find em cheap enough, balanced rotating assembly, full gasket set, ARP head and rod bolts .... basically anything I can think of to make the motor bullet proof.

The end goal is to have a reliable daily that I can have some fun in and take out to the track every once in awhile.

I do not want to cut corners, I am willing to wait a few more months to build up more cash if it means a better build, that's why I started asking now, I am already shopping for the parts I listed , I have been hitting the NICO for sale section every day lurking for parts. This will not be a car that is slapped together over night, it will be done over an extended amount of time with lots of consultations from friends, experts and hopefully NICO members.

Any experiance in building the KAT is appriciated.

But the questions still remains, why does a 8.5 CR piston and higher PSI make more HP then a 9.5 CR piston and lower psi when both mathmatically produce the same CR when the engine is under a load and boosting?

[180fan]

because running an 8.5 cr and street gas with more boost will cram more air inside the cylinders. you get more power with more fuel and air. Higher compression is cool but you need to run good gas to run high boost and higher compression.

You said you want something streetable and something you can use daily. Lower the comp and keep the boost at a reasonable level.

If you expect the car to be responsive, you can build it other ways to get more response. But keep in mind everything is a give and take. You can't expect huge power with NA response from a turbo system. Just like you can't expect oodles of torque from a highly tuned NA engine unless you've got alot of displacement. But then you've got a catch 22 at that point since bigger displacement usually = more rotating mass which limits the revs. You see where this is going?

Also the more you work away from stock in your engine, the more maintainence you should expect. For example, if you get a 5 angle valve job, you'll get less total mileage you can put on the engine before the valve work needs to be freshened up again versus keeping it stock (longest life between maintainence intervals) or a 3 angle (middle of the pack). It really depends on how much power, how many miles before "freshening," etc.

[ADiamond75]

OK, that gives me a pretty good idea of what the difference is.

So if I run 9.5 and small ammounts of boost I can expect a pretty sharp responce and mild HP gains then. Maybe 9:1 I was looking at using the supertech valves ... wonder how long they would last .? anyone ever used them and if so how long ?

[artemous]

Let me expand just a touch on 180fan's post. The name of the game is oxygen and fuel. The ONLY things that matter when it comes to intake. The higher compression ratio increases effiency of the combustion but does not add oxygen or fuel. Boost does. Nitrous does. Methanol does (to a very small degree without a blower). Cams, porting, 5+angle valve jobs, headers, intakes, etc all try to increase the air into the cumbustion chamber. Problem is that most do so at the expence of drivability. Especialy, as 180 said, the valve job. A 5 angle will gain you 1-3 hp at most at the TOP side of street redline and won't last long. Stick with a 3 or possibly even a 2 degree job and take the 3 hp cut, you won't miss it.

Stainless or better valves will last longer. Especially in a turbo exhaust (they get frikin HOT!!!)

Keep stock compression ratio or lower. 8 - 8.5:1 Both very common aftermarket piston ratios. Higher compression will give a TOUCH better milage and low end torque but will limit boost capability.

Piston rings are a big consideration with turbos. Cheap rings will leak fast. Call my friend Joe Moriarity at Total Seal piston rings and tell him Packy refered you ( http://www.totalseal.com ) and have him recommend rings. They will seal better and hold the power. There is a new plasma moly steel ring thats fantastic. Sorry not trying to advertise here.

As for the turbo. T25 will give you very quick responce (almost as fast as NA) but be limited to about 225-250) T28, especialy T2871RS properly configured can be almost as quick and give nearly 300. Or as much as 450 with quite a bit of lag. Call a company that specializes and have them design the map for the engine built. I kinda like turbonetics. I'm not talking just a reseller, but the designers of the system. They have a nice custom T3/T40e.

Porting. Keep it mild. Don't thin the splitter much at all. don't gut the ports or raise the roof much. A mild port is all you want for the street. A big port job will kill responce, milage, torque and hp at your rpm range. A little smoothing and rounding.

Cams stock to 248 nismo's. You'd probably be best in the low end with a pair of the stock 232's or 240's (intake in the exhaust spot) don't run a longer exhaust duration with a turbo. Infact, many hot turbos run more intake duration and lift than exhaust.

Larger pipe (80mm) after the turbo will help with spooling (lag). Smaller pipe before and Thermal barrier coated will keep it hotter and reduce lag.Cast iron exhaust manifold is better for the street than a steel fabricated header. Will run hotter though. With your hood and (hopefully alluminum radiator and oil cooler) you won't have a prob.

As for coatings, expensive and of limited benefit for the street EXCEPT, a thermal barrier coating on the piston top and a thermal barrier coating in the exhaust port and combustion chamber. After that a skirt coating can help with longevity a bit. This should run maybe $250. Exhaust scroll on turbo maybe 100 more and will help slightly with spooling.

My preference bottom line. 8.5:1CR, Turbonetics stage 2 set at 8 psi to start, Plasma molly ductile iron or steel rings, 555 cc injectors, Walberg pump with adjustable regulator, T2827rs turbo (can't recommend sizing, not an expert in turbos) Supertech or Ferrea valves (equivalent), springs, retainers, 3 angle seat, 2 angle valve, mild port, 240 or 248 cams (not one of each like the 91 -93) reprogrammed ECU (comes with Turbonetics kits) or an add on unit. MSD ignition and coil if you can wire it into the distributor. Engine coating listed prior. Methanol injection kit. Small Nitrous kit 35-50 hp no more (mostly just to say you have it). underdrive pully, stock flywheel (yes the heavy jobbie, you'll thank me in rush hour). Stock reworked or aftermarket rods (I hear stock will hold 350hp).

On the down side, the engine rebuild alone with cylinder head porting is nearly your entire budget. Build the engine right. Add the turbo later as money allows. I've planned about the same for 95, budged$13k. I don't have it so all will have to wait.

Now to the common sence. First make it (car) safe. do your seats, suspention bearings, replace worn bushings, seatbelts if worn, etc,

Next make it stop. Do good rotors and pads, rebuild the entire hydraulic system, its probably realy old by now. Or convert to the Z brake system. Don't waste money on brembo's or the like for the street.

Upgrade the brake and clutch lines. Replace the clutch cylinders with nismo.

Next make it handle. Do your shocks, springs, sway bars, links, etc. Whatever needs to be replaced. Add camber, caster and toe adjustment front and rear. The cheapest for the front is the little cam bolt. $20 for the camber.

Next... LEARN TO DRIVE!!! take a professional driving course.

After all that is done you'll be broke, have an awesome car with no hp. Put on headers, intake, underdrive pulley, and a shiny oil cap. Spend the rest on your girlfriend.

Did I get long winded, sorry.

[ADiamond75]

Let me expand just a touch on 180fan's post. The name of the game is oxygen and fuel. The ONLY things that matter when it comes to intake. The higher compression ratio increases effiency of the combustion but does not add oxygen or fuel. Boost does. Nitrous does. Methanol does (to a very small degree without a blower). Cams, porting, 5+angle valve jobs, headers, intakes, etc all try to increase the air into the cumbustion chamber. Problem is that most do so at the expence of drivability. Especialy, as 180 said, the valve job. A 5 angle will gain you 1-3 hp at most at the TOP side of street redline and won't last long. Stick with a 3 or possibly even a 2 degree job and take the 3 hp cut, you won't miss it.

Stainless or better valves will last longer. Especially in a turbo exhaust (they get frikin HOT!!!)

Keep stock compression ratio or lower. 8 - 8.5:1 Both very common aftermarket piston ratios. Higher compression will give a TOUCH better milage and low end torque but will limit boost capability.

Piston rings are a big consideration with turbos. Cheap rings will leak fast. Call my friend Joe Moriarity at Total Seal piston rings and tell him Packy refered you ( http://www.totalseal.com ) and have him recommend rings. They will seal better and hold the power. There is a new plasma moly steel ring thats fantastic. Sorry not trying to advertise here.

As for the turbo. T25 will give you very quick responce (almost as fast as NA) but be limited to about 225-250) T28, especialy T2871RS properly configured can be almost as quick and give nearly 300. Or as much as 450 with quite a bit of lag. Call a company that specializes and have them design the map for the engine built. I kinda like turbonetics. I'm not talking just a reseller, but the designers of the system. They have a nice custom T3/T40e.

Porting. Keep it mild. Don't thin the splitter much at all. don't gut the ports or raise the roof much. A mild port is all you want for the street. A big port job will kill responce, milage, torque and hp at your rpm range. A little smoothing and rounding.

Cams stock to 248 nismo's. You'd probably be best in the low end with a pair of the stock 232's or 240's (intake in the exhaust spot) don't run a longer exhaust duration with a turbo. Infact, many hot turbos run more intake duration and lift than exhaust.

Larger pipe (80mm) after the turbo will help with spooling (lag). Smaller pipe before and Thermal barrier coated will keep it hotter and reduce lag.Cast iron exhaust manifold is better for the street than a steel fabricated header. Will run hotter though. With your hood and (hopefully alluminum radiator and oil cooler) you won't have a prob.

As for coatings, expensive and of limited benefit for the street EXCEPT, a thermal barrier coating on the piston top and a thermal barrier coating in the exhaust port and combustion chamber. After that a skirt coating can help with longevity a bit. This should run maybe $250. Exhaust scroll on turbo maybe 100 more and will help slightly with spooling.

My preference bottom line. 8.5:1CR, Turbonetics stage 2 set at 8 psi to start, Plasma molly ductile iron or steel rings, 555 cc injectors, Walberg pump with adjustable regulator, T2827rs turbo (can't recommend sizing, not an expert in turbos) Supertech or Ferrea valves (equivalent), springs, retainers, 3 angle seat, 2 angle valve, mild port, 240 or 248 cams (not one of each like the 91 -93) reprogrammed ECU (comes with Turbonetics kits) or an add on unit. MSD ignition and coil if you can wire it into the distributor. Engine coating listed prior. Methanol injection kit. Small Nitrous kit 35-50 hp no more (mostly just to say you have it). underdrive pully, stock flywheel (yes the heavy jobbie, you'll thank me in rush hour). Stock reworked or aftermarket rods (I hear stock will hold 350hp).

On the down side, the engine rebuild alone with cylinder head porting is nearly your entire budget. Build the engine right. Add the turbo later as money allows. I've planned about the same for 95, budged$13k. I don't have it so all will have to wait.

Now to the common sence. First make it (car) safe. do your seats, suspention bearings, replace worn bushings, seatbelts if worn, etc,

Next make it stop. Do good rotors and pads, rebuild the entire hydraulic system, its probably realy old by now. Or convert to the Z brake system. Don't waste money on brembo's or the like for the street.

Upgrade the brake and clutch lines. Replace the clutch cylinders with nismo.

Next make it handle. Do your shocks, springs, sway bars, links, etc. Whatever needs to be replaced. Add camber, caster and toe adjustment front and rear. The cheapest for the front is the little cam bolt. $20 for the camber.

Next... LEARN TO DRIVE!!! take a professional driving course.

After all that is done you'll be broke, have an awesome car with no hp. Put on headers, intake, underdrive pulley, and a shiny oil cap. Spend the rest on your girlfriend.

Did I get long winded, sorry.

This is the best reply I have seen yet, I will definitely look into all the things you have recommended for the motor. As for the other stuff ... car has been completely rebuilt other than the motor and transmission.

Here is what I have done so far:

Suspension:Megan Street coiloversKazama tie rod ends, tension rods, RUCASNismo Subframe BushingsAny other bushing that was found to be warn was replacedWhiteline Sway Bars

Brakes:q45 calipers up frontcross drilled rotors all aroundSteal braided lines all aroundFactory replacements pads for frond and rearRebuilt rear calipers

Engine BayKoyo RadiatorCooling ventsCooling panel

I like the idea about the rings, I will defiantly be contacting them for pricing once I have bought the pistons. Are those rings that much better than the one’s that come with CP pistons?

As for the cams … so the 248 /248 should work well for me? Not the 260/260 crower ones? I think they are alittle bit longer duration. If I understand your response correctly I will loose low end and the car won’t be as responsive, is this what you are saying?

I’ll keep the porting recommendations in mind as well, I had planned on having the head ported and polished extensively but will probably tone it down if that will cause me to loose response from the throttle.

Next, onto questions about turbos … think I need to ponder some more and then ask some more questions, maybe make a few calls to some companies that make turbos to ask them some questions.

Thanks for the response, and yeah, driving lessons are a must …. Did Auto-X for about a year before the motor died and not only was it a blast but I learned a lot about the car, which surprised me seeing as how I had owned the car for 6 years.

[180fan]

the stuff that comes with the CP's are all you need. My SR was tested to a little past 2 bar, and the CP's rings hold just fine. You will need to adjust the ring gap according to how much boost you will be running however to ensure a good seal. That's something you need to discuss in detail with your machinist if you're not familiar with those details.

Moly coatings at the piston skirts can reduce wear at the cylinder walls, something to consider if you're planning on using forged pistons. You will need to take the composition of the pistons into account when getting the moly coatings applied (if you are) to make sure you give it enough space for expansion.

The devil is in the details. You need to find a good and trustworthy machinist and discuss all those details to make sure you know what you're giving up, the expected mileage, to ensure that your machinist will also have a run through the details so they don't forget a thing either (hey they're people too and forget stuff too) and make sure everything is within your goals/budget.

remember everything is a give and take. You can't have something without sacrifice.

[artemous]

cp's are great pistons. They have a few high tech features I love like gas groves between the two upper rings. I'm sure their rings are also top of the line for std high performance parts. Total seal are gapless, hence no blow by with that heavy boost. Still, its an added $300 for a few more hp and more miles from the engine.

The 264 cam from crower http://briancrower.com/makes/nissan/ka24de.shtml

Has a 218 duration @.050. Its a bit hot for a street turbo. Great if your going to race but will lower responce. If you also notice on this page they list stock as 256, which we all know to be either 232 or 240/248 So I think they measure differently. I do not know what the .050 rating is on a stock cam. They list "slight lope at idle" with the 264 cam. Turbos dont like to lope. Turbo power band will be 3,000 - 7000k with a stage II turbo (in my opinion.

Heres a little show I saw on the euoropean spec Subuaru WRX STI. 400 hp over there. The show was top gear. They took a stock WRX to Lamboghini's test track. Lamborghini furnished the Gsomething. Their hot v12. The WRX stayed with the Laborghini, I mean right on its *** through the entire track. Then they rented a 60 hp econobox. Drove it side by side, 25 mph in top gear for each car. Then drag raced from there staying in top gear. The 60 hp junker held off the WRX for 3/4 mile. The turbo was WAY TO BIG according to them.

Keep it in prospective. If you go to small you'll loose a bit of hp. Maybe 25 if you underbid the turbo and cam. If you go to big you'll loose at the green light!

180 said the devil is in the details. He ain't joshin here. The little crappy things you over look will bite you in the *** later. Running cheap bearings, wrong hone finsh, shotty valve job, etc. There are alot of crappy machinest out there. Contact superstreet, modified mag, import performance, etc. They may be able to give you referrals in your area. Make a new post asking for referals giving your city and state. Ask about the shops racing record.

Think about this one. Sleeving the block. You can overbore a bit more. Sleeves are better material than the block and will seal better for longer. They are also consistent thickness and will stay round better. $100 a hole? is it worth it.

Now I have a few questions. Did your Q45 brakes bolt right on? I'm looking into thoes or the Z brakes.What is RUCAS?

Did you replace the bushings in the rear spindle housing with polyurethane? I have the bushings but haven't pulled them yet. I'd like to know how the feel changes.Got pictures?

Packy

[180fan]

$100 a hole? sounds like a bargain to me! better than my ex...oh wait...nevermind.

Q45's bolt up, you'll need new rotors though.

RUCA = Rear Upper Control Arm

new bushings + your suspension = cheapest suspension mod that will have probably the greatest impact on your car's handling (depends on how bad your bushings are but if it's ~10 years or older, yeah it'll be a huge improvement). btw rsr bushings = Energy Suspension and when they say "it only takes a day!" on their website, they're lying. Little bastards took a while to get in.

[ADiamond75]

Q45 brakes bolt right up, and you can even use the stock brake lines, they are bango style lines for the Q45. Also, stock wheels are no problem and so are many more aftermarket wheels, better clearance than the 300z brakes. In my opinion the Q45 brakes are also more balanced with the stock rear callipers, all I noticed after the uipgrade was better braking and no more fade. The Bias was not altered to my knowledge.

As for the suspension, I did everything but the subframe bushings at the same time so I noticed a huge difference, and cannot say one had a bigger effect than the other. I replaced the rear toe arm bushings with the rest of the suspension upgrades. They were the only other bushings that were really worn besides the subframe bushings.

Now, when I replaced the subframe bushings I noticed a big difference in the way the car squatted into a corner and out of a corner, oh and they are a real PITA to change.

I'll try and get some close up pics for you but the car is kinda stationary in the garage right now as the motor is dead ....
Modified by ADiamond75 at 9:58 PM 9/7/2006

[artemous]

I've changed the "RUCA" with Battle version. When I pulled the original arm, the bushing was completely pushed to one side and had NO rigity. I'm sure all the bushings are like that. Lets see, 1/16" play x 16 bushings = , lets see, carry the one, add this, move the decimal place. Oh I have it, crap handling. I have whiteline's but haven't installed them yet. The toe arm does not use the same bushings so I may have to get a factory one for the spindle there.

I'm going to use nylons sub frame inserts, easy way out.

I've also heard the Q45 uses 2 piston calipers both inboard mount. as opposed to the z's 4 caliper iboard and outboard. I'm glad to see they work. Now to find a wrecked Q45.

2 calipers, 2 rotors, brake pads,anything else?

[ADiamond75]

I've changed the "RUCA" with Battle version. When I pulled the original arm, the bushing was completely pushed to one side and had NO rigity. I'm sure all the bushings are like that. Lets see, 1/16" play x 16 bushings = , lets see, carry the one, add this, move the decimal place. Oh I have it, crap handling. I have whiteline's but haven't installed them yet. The toe arm does not use the same bushings so I may have to get a factory one for the spindle there.

I'm going to use nylons sub frame inserts, easy way out.

I've also heard the Q45 uses 2 piston calipers both inboard mount. as opposed to the z's 4 caliper iboard and outboard. I'm glad to see they work. Now to find a wrecked Q45.

2 calipers, 2 rotors, brake pads,anything else?

I tried the inserts, Kazama inserts to be exact, it helped for about 3 months till the bushings completly desinegrated, then I could push on the rear wheels with the parking break on and move the subframe .... while the car was on the ground. Yeah, they were that bad and inserts helped that little. I say do the NISMO or all aluminum one's if you're gonna do it, don't wait time on inserts.

As for the breaks it's a two piston slider system with both pistons on the oposite side of the calliper from the wheel ... allows for alot of clearance. And I would recommend just going to autozone or someplace and ordering fully loaded callipers. I got mine from Autozone for $100 with pads, clips, bolt, mounts and callipers. They even took the 240sx callipers back as a core. I had to special order them and it took like 2 weeks to get them in but hey, it was cheap. I used the pads till they were gone and then bought the Infiniti OEM pads ...

Here's a couple of pics of the brakes on the front and some supspension stuff







I tried to take pics of the suspension stuff but couldn't get good shots under the car ... they all came out looking like poo. Guess I'll have to wait till I get it on a lift for those pics

[artemous]

Looks as though your getting a nice machine there. I can't believe how cheap it is to upgrade the brakes. Everybody sells these expensive kits and this just bolts on. You realy don't need thoes 13" brakes unless you race hard.

What year of Q45? or are they all the same. Does it matter abs or not?

Thx for the pics.

[ADiamond75]

Looks as though your getting a nice machine there. I can't believe how cheap it is to upgrade the brakes. Everybody sells these expensive kits and this just bolts on. You realy don't need thoes 13" brakes unless you race hard.

What year of Q45? or are they all the same. Does it matter abs or not?

Thx for the pics.

I have ABS on mine but I don't think it makes a difference. I used the callipers from a 96' q45 but I believe you can use other years. I also ordered the crossdrilled rotors from ebay for like $70 for the fronts (Q45) and $70 for the rear (240sx) if I remember the price correctly, they have lasted quite well. The callipers from autozone also came with a lifetime warantee. All and all I think I spent about $350 for all callipers, rotors, pads, stainless lines, and fluids. Not bad for almost a completly new brake system that is better than the stock set up.

I found this link awhile ago and it lays it all out pretty clear.

http://www.ka24development.com/brake_upgrades.html

The swap was as easy as changing my brake pads, the only snag was cutting the splash shield off ... it took about 10 minutes with an angle grinder. At the same time I did this I rebuilt my rear callipers, replaced my rear rotors and pads, went to all stainless lines and flushed the break system. I used synthetic brake fluid when I did this.

The main reason I did the brake swap was because of fade. During one extremly hot summer here in Houston I kept getting fade during the day on the freeway. I drive for a living and put an average of 1000 miles a week on my car. On Houston Freeways it is common to go from 70mhp trafic to a dead stop many times in a 5 mile stretch, and I generally drive faster then the rest of trafic. After 2 fast stops I wouldn't have very good braking, and on the third would get fade. Or if I was just flat out booking it at 100+ mph I would get fade instantaniously upon fast braking. After going through 3 sets of front rotors and 1 set of rear rotors I decided I needed to do something to fix my problem. The Q45 brakes did just that, I have not had fade since I put them on.

And on a side note, I have replaced the front pads once and the rear pads 3 times. The larger surface of the front pads wears down alot less than the rears. On an end note, I have put roughly 25,000 miles on the car since I did that brake swap.
Modified by ADiamond75 at 4:04 PM 9/10/2006

[ADiamond75]

Ok, I have decided the way to go and done some purchasing.

Heres what I have so far:

Holset Turbo H1C (Off Dodge turbo diesel)9:1 CR pistons

Heres: what I plan for the valve trainPorted and pollished headCrower 264 cams.Crower Springs and retainers

So my question is, what injectors should I use?

I have heard of people pushing 400+ HP with this setup, however they were also running race gas and ALOT of boost. I plan on running 10psi - maybe 15 occasionally.

[ADiamond75]

nobody have any recomendations?

[jrb92se]

you need to put an rb in that car bro its to nice for just a ka-t

[ADiamond75]

you need to put an rb in that car bro its to nice for just a ka-t

already started collecting parts for the KAT. It's the way I'm gonna go.

So, with 350-400 HP how big of injectors should I run and is there an advantage to top feed?

[180fan]

550-700cc injectors. don't matter if they're top or side.

[ADiamond75]

cool, thanks man.

So next question, who makes a good affordable wastegate that can handle .8-1 bar?

[180fan]

an internal one. lol

yeah for that one you'd have to look around. they all seem to run about the same ballpark figure for a good one.

[ADiamond75]

an internal one. lol

yeah for that one you'd have to look around. they all seem to run about the same ballpark figure for a good one.

Internal one isn't going to happen with the turbo I bought. Give me names people !?!?!

Tial?HKS?Greddy?GeneroCrap?

[S3t0_S13]

wait so ur heading toward the KA-T right?thats what i was planning, but a rebuild to make internals withstand boost, along with a decent turbo setup just seems to cost wayyyyy too much dont u agree? i mean unless your getting somethin done cheap, a rebuild along with a turbo setup is in the 5000 at least! thats the problem i have.

[MoldyOldy240]

wait so ur heading toward the KA-T right?thats what i was planning, but a rebuild to make internals withstand boost, along with a decent turbo setup just seems to cost wayyyyy too much dont u agree? i mean unless your getting somethin done cheap, a rebuild along with a turbo setup is in the 5000 at least! thats the problem i have.

Well... yes done with all the details in mind so it functions properly does cost a bit of cash. If you look at doing it all in one haul; sure you'll become discouraged.

The way I've come about my own personal plans for my KA24 are more long term. I set a goal (350 Trq) and figured out the best way to get there. I did all the math and when I'm done I'll have an engine sitting in my garage that cost me 1/2 to a whole year and about 10G's; but its done the way I want it. If its not your passion, then yes its expensive. But if infact it is something that you are passionate about; that keeps you awake at night planning and comparing (and then you girl tells you to turn the damn computer off and go to sleep), then its never too expensive. Atleast that is my thinking...~Nick

[ADiamond75]

wait so ur heading toward the KA-T right?thats what i was planning, but a rebuild to make internals withstand boost, along with a decent turbo setup just seems to cost wayyyyy too much dont u agree? i mean unless your getting somethin done cheap, a rebuild along with a turbo setup is in the 5000 at least! thats the problem i have.

5k? yeah, that's about right after fuel management and fully built bottom and top end with all the turbo parts. Of course, that's with me pulling the motor and putting it back in.

[ADiamond75]

Well... yes done with all the details in mind so it functions properly does cost a bit of cash. If you look at doing it all in one haul; sure you'll become discouraged.

The way I've come about my own personal plans for my KA24 are more long term. I set a goal (350 Trq) and figured out the best way to get there. I did all the math and when I'm done I'll have an engine sitting in my garage that cost me 1/2 to a whole year and about 10G's; but its done the way I want it. If its not your passion, then yes its expensive. But if infact it is something that you are passionate about; that keeps you awake at night planning and comparing (and then you girl tells you to turn the damn computer off and go to sleep), then its never too expensive. Atleast that is my thinking...~Nick

Never let your girl talk to my wife, they'll start a support group and get some kind of 'intervention' idea going on and then we are all doomed. My wife thinks I'm the only one this fanatical, she just doesn't even know