Whoever's tuning need to not be so conservative if they know what they're doing. Too much boost and a poorly tuned engine melted that head. Always the #3 cylinder because the same thing happened to a customer who let someone adjust his fuel trim to lean by 30% and ran 18psi of boost.ks13 wrote:yea you need to not melt valley's in your head, and start by running the absolute least amount of boost you can while its being tuned, then turn it up in increments tuning each range of boost independently. Screw what I said about 15psi, start with 10 if you can. Who is tuning your car for you we are asking?
are you running off the wastegate spring, or using a boost controller? What psi spring is in the wastegate right now?
So, some randoms in the uk seat of the pants, sorry, first hand experience is the basis for 'your' decision that the 4 port is better?dash wrote:...and so was Nissans'. If it was ok for those 'dummys' to "waste"(?) their money (huge expense), time and effort for "no difference".... it should be "ok" for any of us mere mortals to, eh ? Reckon nissan R&D have a clue ?
For some reason it appears the JDM focus was on enhancing the weak low-end torque characteristics of the CA18DET - butterflys, 0.48 turbine housing, diff gearing
lots of first hand accounts of '4 vs 8 port' info in the early days of sxoc.I'm not talking about flow, port measurements or any of that foolishness, but the business end rather = what actually happens at the rear tires.Long story short... some replaced their tired 4 port with an 8 port motor. They preferred the performance of the 4, so they switched the head/intake only, to "regain their performance". Some tinkered with butterfly operation, others removed 'em etc.Been so long since reading feedback, a least that is the jist, from observation.
Enough 4 port combos detailed for review..... from kitten to monster. Choose one.I still don't know how their "brake hp" compares to our whp figures tho.
Luckily I got both. My interest lies only in comparing torque enhancement from butterfly tinkering... street driveability/T28(0.48)/16g etc.Once my tuning skills developed, 4 port gets the goodies/go-ahead to get wild.
On another note, I never trip over head flow numbers, like everyone praises hondas for example. Even with hi peak hp number, they get their arse waxed on the regular, any given day - so big fkn deal
Which head would be more expensive for Nissan to mill?dash wrote:I'd think the most economically feasible route would be to simply remove the plates & shaft, then cast the same mani without the holes. Retain the same intake & rail.I'm 'assuming' nissan could figure that out. Toyota 4AG, same deal..... new castings
Modified by dash at 4:09 AM 8/6/2009
I like the way you think, my friend. This is exactly my thoughts, but I have a few other facts that I found with our beloved butterfly valves that most don't know. AS I stated somewhere before on this forum, that butterfly system works better when used on the naturally aspirated engines. The butterfly is not so useful on force induced variants.mbmbmb23 wrote:I was under the impression the whole butterfly mechanism added complexity (which increases cost), 2 significant reasons for Nissan to switch to a 4 port head....then ultimately the SR.
I have been thinking the same thing for the longest time. The 4 ports here are in all years I have come across. My 89 had a 4 port, my 91 and also my 92 had a 4 port. So the 4 port has been around as long as the 8 port has. I have stripped a couple of 200sx's here and was surprised to find an 8 port. Don't know if it was original or somebody here trying to be a bit different.float_6969 wrote:AND to add to Dee's little tirade there, also keep in mind driving styles of different countries.
Think about Japan in general. It's an island. Has lots of ppl. Crowded. Taxes based on displacement. If you're building an engine for this place, it needs to be responsive, off the line (low end tq) yet have small displacement so ppl can pay the taxes on it. With these things in mind, Nissan, I would assume, would put a lot of R&D into developing a small displacement motor (CA16DE anybody?) that has a broad powerband and good low end torque. And I think Nissan did a great job. (This motor also lets you sell to the silly Americans of the 1980's who still have a love of big displacement motors and lots of low end grunt)
NOW, lets look at europe. Think autobahn. Think much more open. Think of countries that value top speed MUCH more than 0-60 or 1/4 mile times. Once again, displacement based tax. For this country I would want a small engine that makes good mid range power for sustained amounts of time. I would also be willing to give up low end torque to achieve this.
Remember, the 4 port head probably wasn't developed after the 8 port as an improvement. I believe that it was developed to cater to the different driving styles and requirement of different countries. (and I'm not sure, but I don't think Europe EVER got the 8 port head)
Just got through with a member's car that needed a head job because the timing belt snapped. So I just gave him one of my already machined heads, a composite h/g and new head bolts. In addition to this, I got his SR T25 rebuilt, added 750cc injectors, and of course he opted for a standalone to suit his needs. The stock T25 is running about 13psi of boost and the car runs really well. I can guarantee that that otherwise stock h/g will take an abusive 25+psi of boost if tuned correctly.KEMP wrote:oem/felpro? im not sure about all of that, that sounds like a ticking time bomb to me...
I said I was going to give-up if he doesn't answer questions especially about his tuner. That's oh-so important 'KEMP'. Help us help you or you may find yourself on yur own. Most people around here are struggling to get their cars to run,so it's going to be hard for them to help you.ks13 wrote:dont even answer this fool back anymore until he starts answering some of our questions. Dont answer our questions with questions, and stop being a f*cking stubborn goat.
BUUUUUUUUUUUTTTTTT, has he ever tuned a CA? If yours is the 1st, then there's plnty to learn about what this little puppy like and don't like. It loves boost and $hits on bad tuning jobs.KEMP wrote:ok, sorry, i havent been able to get on lately.
my tuner, is a very well known and reliable tuner in the cincinnati area, and has tuned countless reliable, grea, fast cars over the years, he started young with his dad on card ars around age 16, then moved on to DSM/evo cars, then to 2jzgte(is300) cars, and countless cars in between.
he is now 30yrs old, and is by no means a young gun at tuning, he knows his stuff and tunes many cars.
Way off topic, I too am running an SR T25 at 13psi, but I have stock injectors and stock ecu....I just want to know if bigger injectors/ecu upgrades are needed? I was told before (by you I believe) that this is fine but I'm having second thoughts now that I see that you installed 750cc injectors and a standalone on your friends CA.boost_boy wrote: The stock T25 is running about 13psi of boost and the car runs really well. Dee
13 psi on that turbo is the absolute max. If the performance is enough for you, then leave it be. But if you're hungry and want to see just how fun this little engine really is, an upgrade in the areas you mentioned is paramount. The problem with my friend/NICO member is the fact that he has all the goodies on the fuel and engine management side, but he too sports an SR T25 and it truly depreciates the money he spent on everything else. Once he changes the turbo, manifold and add an external wastegate, the car will be a sick one for me to tune.CakeEater wrote:
Way off topic, I too am running an SR T25 at 13psi, but I have stock injectors and stock ecu....I just want to know if bigger injectors/ecu upgrades are needed? I was told before (by you I believe) that this is fine but I'm having second thoughts now that I see that you installed 750cc injectors and a standalone on your friends CA.
Any clarification would be awesome.P.S. I have no issues with the car, just want to be safe.
I'm not too familiar with NISTUNE and the only member on here "21FOX21" has already wiped-out a motor, even though he got some good power. Once I started with standalones, I refuse to tune with anything else. The cleanliness of the installs, the amount factory garbage I get to eliminate, the fact that I have my own base programs for most injectors that makes initial start-up and driveabilty makes me not want to toy with anything else. Not trying to deter you from NISTUNE, but someone had better know what they are doing. As for your timing maps, I would love to take a look at what you're working to see how they classify timing parameters in their system. It would allow me to compare it to all my data from tuning different standalones to see if your tuner is outside of the CA timing boundaries.KEMP wrote:you are absolutly right DEE, but, one thing i do not understand, is that my car was/is on super low timing maps, he set them low to be safe since it is his first CA to tune, and the boost and afr's were fine.
im still waiting on my injectors for checking, so im putting my money on a bad injector.
Dee, how familiar are you with nistune? and do you have the software?
If you would like to be an amzing help, i could even pay you, but i would like some sort of a base map that you would consider a "ready-to-tune map" so we have a better starting point this time, if you do not have the software, i could send you my pass key and maybe work something out.
Let me know. Thanks
HAHAHA I had a rod bolt snap nothing to do with nistune.boost_boy wrote:I'm not too familiar with NISTUNE and thonly member on here "21FOX21" has already wiped-out a motor, even though he got some good power.
Dee
You get a base map and there are settings for your maf and injector size that if you change them to what you have CORRECTLY you have a good base map.KEMP wrote:
If you would like to be an amzing help, i could even pay you, but i would like some sort of a base map that you would consider a "ready-to-tune map" so we have a better starting point this time, if you do not have the software, i could send you my pass key and maybe work something out.
Let me know. Thanks
That's what you think..HAHA .Whoever told you different blew smoke up your tail to cover their behinds. You obviously made power by riding alot of timing. I know the motor well and know damn well what it takes to bend rods like that . So unless your engine drank water while under full load, your rods bending had plenty to do with the tuning of the NISTUNE system. And if you think the rods just mysteriously bent, try again .21FOX21 wrote:
HAHAHA I had a rod bolt snap nothing to do with nistune.
One rod was hella bent from an injector being stuck open and motor still ran 11's and made 400 on the dyno after that. The other rods I am assuming bent when I was at a drift event drifting and somewhere in the 7000-8000 range my heater core blew and fried my ecu thus flooding my engine.boost_boy wrote:That's what you think..HAHA .Whoever told you different blew smoke up your tail to cover their behinds. You obviously made power by riding alot of timing. I know the motor well and know damn well what it takes to bend rods like that . So unless your engine drank water while under full load, your rods bending had plenty to do with the tuning of the NISTUNE system. And if you think the rods just mysteriously bent, try again .
Dee