Thanks Wes. Now that I know we're talking about the same thing there's a couple of good posts out there on checking the CAS. I'll see if I can fit it in tonight.elwesso wrote:Mike the CAS=CPS..... Cam angle sensor, crank angle sensor, cam position sensor. all the same thing....... Cam Angle Sensor is the most specific and accurate nomenclature...
Tech the only problem is he said he checkedthe no 2 cylinder and it was getting spark? Maybe not enough...?Q45tech wrote:Well you now know the CAS is working as is the ecu. Change that banks ignition control module and check the wiring harness under it. CHECK connector from ecu to ignition module.. we can assume that bank is not firing the plugs.
The ecu provides the +12 to 4 transistors [inside ignition module] and then to 4 coils.
What do plugs look like they will have to be cleaned before trying a replacement ignition module. Sure you got the ground lugs under the scews in wiring harness ?
mmm, i'm not toally convinced on the spark yet. i agree it's good that Mike can get 2/4/6 to spark to the plenum, but do we *really* know what it is doing when under running stress? perhaps the voltage to fire plugs breaks down very quickly (sneak path in ignitor circuit to groun for example). long shot maybe, but wouldn't rule out spark just yet. Mike- I don't have a spare power transistor--might try Tyrone or somebody--they prolly got one to swap out and try.elwesso wrote:Im really curious as to what (if any) insight a consult could give us... I think your on a roll though and we'd like to not do that if possible...
For my own good, here is what we know is not causing this problem.
- Lack of spark- lack of compression- ECU- CAS
You're not a nerd. Keep the ideas coming. I had already started to measure the power transistors per the FSM (EF & EC-218) when I read this post. I wasn't getting the continuity readings but when I reread the instructions it says to use an analog VOM, not a digital VOM. You are correct though, swapping sides would tell me the same thing. I'm on it after work today. I'll go buy an analog VOM also.GQ Jay wrote:good idea. might still run rough, but if the fuel went away on pass side and reappeared on driver's side that would be conclusive. I'm a nerd to know such detail about another memeber car's history.
Yeah what he wants you to do is pull the fuel rail from the manifolds and then see if they leak when you pressurize it..... Obviouly check the power transistors...goody94q45 wrote:Thanks for the suggestion. Please elaborate. Are you suggesting a fuel rail removal and pressure check?
Nope, but I run pretty heavy pop up and ad blockers. Pretty locked down, but no spyware, viruses, etc.GQ Jay wrote:huh. shows up fine on my screen. what about pict of fy33 and g50 in driveway (rims thread)? did thatone do same?
Please let me know how.maxnix wrote:Posts linked to Member's Rides work great. .
Yes. The body of the old injectors was a light tan but I'm not sure if the color had just faded compared to the light purple ones that I've gotten from Joe. The new ones were purchased based on my VIN #.GQ Jay wrote:Mike- are both of those the factory (light brown) injectors?