Anyone tried Hydrogen?

[drift_bucket]

ok thanx man

[ItzGenX]

A guy around here also has been messing around with it and he found that if you add 2 T spoons of baking soda in a 42oz jar it will draw 4 amps, he went from 18MPG to 24MPG with this setup So he did a 3 t spoon test and it drew 10 amps and he says he went to 53mpg. So I dunno, It seems to be working for alot of people.

I averaged this last trip 30MPG in my s-10 so I have picked up 3MPG so far.

Amperage will vary with different setups. Three T-spoons for you may be more or less amperage. It all comes down to what type of water you are using (tap, mineral/drinking, distilled), the amount of cell surface area, and the cell spacing. First off, to remedy that crud you have at the bottom of your jar, use distilled water. If it is distilled water, the crud came from the cell itself. Dirty metal can surprisingly cause a LOT of gunk. If you want to keep your cell design like that (not too great of a design if you ask me), at least have the cell plates EVENLY spaced with each other. Uneven plates cause unwanted current fluctuation and don't produce too well. That cell design alone has too much current leakage (when the electricity goes into the water and AROUND the area you want it to pass through). This does nothing, not even produce usable gas. All it will do is produce heat. You want electricity to go from one plate face to the next, not around. You can prevent this by redesigning the cell to something that has less radiating electricity or insulate the areas you do not want electrical parasites with heat shrink or something. Also, do not add salt as someone above has said. Salt combines with the oxygen (less oxygen for the motor) and becomes a toxic chlorine gas. It also forms a nice foam floating sludge at the top of the water.

On another note, go to lowes or home depot to the light switch section. There should be blank stainless wall plates (to cover unused holes in some homes and businesses). The ones from home depot are better (my lowes ones rusted in some spots, crappy SS is what it is). They are like $1.50 each. I usually buy them by the box though. In the hardware isle at the same store, there are drawers that contain SS fasteners etc. Some are on the isle itself in boxes on the shelf. In short, you can build a simple 3 cell (6 plates) that is fairly efficient and bear more fruit for under $20 that's all stainless and nylon.

[rb25drag]

Well as an update, I just got back around to fooling with the hydrogen kits again. This is my latest test design:



Made it out of SS Rod, It seems to charge alot!! Way more than any of my other designs, Here is a short test video, Im going to install it tom and test it all week.



To me it seems to have more energy producing in the container, none of my other designs have produced as much fizz.

[ItzGenX]

Uniform spacing between the entire anode/cathode are the key. That design is still very uneven, being that most of the gas is generated where the closest of the two coils almost intersect each other. Comparing yours to mine, yours would look like a party balloon to my good year blimp. If you think that is a lot, you have much to work on. I have a 1.5mm spacing between all of my plates, front and back. The amount of gas coming out between each one is evened out rather then centered. Picture your 'baby' underwater mushroom cloud you have. When mine turns on there is no mushroom cloud due to all the bubbles coming from the center only. The entire cell produces all the way across evenly to where the entire water level rises about an inch and stays there. The only way two coils would work very good is if they were wound into a uniform double helix, much like DNA illustrations without the lateral bars connecting the two.

[Kansei240sx]

You realize that SS anything isnt going to do anything. Having two coils is also not going to work because you're just producing H20 again once the gas vaporizes and condenses.

You need to use at least four cylinders and have a coil even spaced out. Three of the cylinders that have coils in them have to use a negative charge and one positive with a vent to the vacuum source on the manifold for the oxygen and then ports to the intake manifold for the hydrogen gas.

Using anything BUT titanium rod for the coils will cause electrolysis corrode the metal, reduce conductivity, and turn the water into sh1t and produce little no gains because you're adding H20 vapors not H vapors.

I have a diagram of how a good setup SHOULD work in theory. We tried guitar string for the coil in a much smaller three cylinder setup and took a sample from a bubble it produced and the flame ignited rather well.

My post is vague as hell, so ill post up a good detailed post when i finish our hydrogen cell setup.

[Sentientbydesign]

I love this thread. I can't wait until somebody posts something that works well.

I'm curious. Would both the O2 and H2 be introduced into the intake?

If they were and the issue of running lean could be addressed, some serious power and fuel economy gains could be seen.

[ItzGenX]

Mine is all stainless for years and hasn't had a corroding problem. I use SS316. For one, I do not use the coil design because it is too efficient. The problem is coils leak too much current (wasted) electricity into the water as heat since it can't find a direct path to the other coil. My cell is a series of plates with the side edges sealed along with half the top and bottom sealed. This lets the water enter from the bottom and gas escape at the top, but minimizes places for parasitic loss. It used to draw 30A raw and heat up to 190F (without pulsed DC) to 11.5A peak with max heat of 132F just from sealing the edges of my plates (insulating from water basically) and still make the same volume of gas. On pulsed current, I've ended up with a cell twice as large that is sealed in and consume only 18.6A peak 116F and almost twice the volume of gas. The idea is to give electricity a direct path to it's target plate and pass directly through the electrolyzed water without giving it any other options of taking a detour. Detours waste energy and turns it into heat and water vapor instead of gas.

I understand most will start with a very poor performing cell because the first step is always to learn the concept. Next step is understanding what you want to happen and don't want to happen. Then redesign based on wants and don't wants.

Another thing is, it isn't water vapor he is inducing into his engine. If you take H2+O right after it is split from H2O, it will NOT have enough time to recombine before it is ingested by the engine. In fact, each H+H+O will natively seek it's twin. This means they become diatomic, so if you can get a gas analyzer, you will notice much of the gas at the exit tube will be H2+O2. Over a period of time (not exactly short period), the gases will become H2O again, due to hydrogen's instability by itself. You can test this by filling a regular balloon with the gas created by your cell. Prove to yourself it isn't water vapor in there by lighting the balloon on fire (from a distance!) after a few mins. I assure you, it will still burn. In fact, grab some ear muffs because it will sound like you are in Urban Iraq.

[ItzGenX]

I love this thread. I can't wait until somebody posts something that works well.

I'm curious. Would both the O2 and H2 be introduced into the intake?

If they were and the issue of running lean could be addressed, some serious power and fuel economy gains could be seen.

Yes, normally on these home made systems, both oxygen and hydrogen enter the intake air stream together.

[yoesh1]

I am looking seriously into making one of these. The number of different designs is wonderful... I love to see such individual experimentation. It is encouraging.

For those looking into spiral based HHO generators, have you seen this? This guy uses stainless steel wire or whatever, seems to reduce costs. I wonder what insulating it in different ways would do?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DL90PDiceQ8

[carguide]

I dunno if its a scam or not just curious to if someone has actually tried it or not. As high as gas is, Im sure it will push people into buying into almost anything.

I work 64 miles 1 way from home, Which I spend close to 120$ a week just in gas on my DD to get there and back. Something as simple as this would be cool to try. But I don't know much about hydrogen and exactly how much it actually takes to work.

So does anyone have any real experience or know anyone who has? Other than just saying its a scam.

Tell you what, donate the books for the Fall Gathering raffle. We'll be sure it gets built and thoroughly tested. Actually, with those simple plans and materials, and the combined handiness of 100 or so cruiserheads, I'm sure we can get it up and running that weekend! We're a bunch of cheap...........er,...........thrifty, Yankees, so you can be sure that when it works we'll be spreading the word!

[StricNyne]

this thread is an interesting read

[AxiOn419]

this thread is an interesting read

I agree, I just read through the entire thing and did not skip a single post. Interesting stuff

[sweethe]

Has anyone tried the kit? like water4gas,runyourcaronwater etc.You can truly get better mileage : http://carwaterguide.blogspot.com

Hi guys, I recently visited your site.I'm doing a Chemistry project and was wondering if HHO is a viable source of energy? Does it waste more energy than it uses?Thanks.

[Flamereka]

I haven't really read up on this but what do you guys do int he winter when water starts to freeze? No more Hydrogen or is baking soda enough to keep it from freezing? What is also the minimum distance between plates?

[yoesh1]

Any updates, fellows?