I was referring to them as e-fans because I planned on connecting them to the ECU and letting that turn the fans on and off. Of course if the ECU doesn't have the capability, Ill refer to them as electric fans.VStar650CL wrote: ↑Thu Jul 21, 2022 8:00 amThere are a lot of ways to skin the electric cat once you find a fan or set of fans that fits in the hole. You probably shouldn't call them all e-fans, though. In the industry that's reserved for PWM-able variable speed units (you can do that too, there are a couple of good stand-alone PWM controllers available today). Brushless (BLDC) fans are definitely more reliable in any case, whether they're single-speed or PWM.
Holy s***, thanks for all of the info! Damn, that is a lot to go through. I really appreciate that.VStar650CL wrote: ↑Thu Jul 21, 2022 11:12 amThere's definitely no ECM output on an R50, you can see the pinout here on EC-107:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 9%2Fec.pdf
However, hooking up a separate temperature switch and relay isn't rocket science. There are lots of kits for adding a 1-speed electric, you just need to tee a spot for a sensor. On an R50 the best spot is probably the little "U" hose that connects the cylinder head to the intake manifold, that will get reliably hot even if there's a loss of coolant flow. You don't want to use an adaptor on a main radiator hose, those will go cold if the 'stat sticks or the water pump quits. Derale makes some very nice 1-speed wiring kits with sensors:
https://derale.com/product-footer/elect ... kit-detail
With a dual fan, most people run both when the coolant switch is on and just one with the A/C. That's easy too, just a relay driven by the A/C clutch circuit and another driven by the main coolant switch. I can show you how to do all that stuff.
To go PWM isn't rocket science either. You do need a controller, but if you use one of these then you can tap the existing temperature signal to the ECM and there will be no sensor to worry about. Full disclosure, I have a stake in some of WM's products, but I like their controller better anyway because it's self-learning. Lingenfelter makes a similar product, but it needs a predefined sensor and doesn't control the fan as nicely with A/C:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/143561612623
For a fan, Lincoln Mk8 and most Chevy truck fans all move a crapload of air, so a single one will do the job. SPAL also makes a full line of excellent e-fans if you want to go new instead of raiding the JY.
The big advantage to going electric is on the highway, where the fan will never push more air or use more power than what the engine temperature requires. On square-box vehicles like your Pathy, many people claim as much as a couple mpg in gas savings from going electric, whether it's 1-speed or variable.
Great information again! Ill be looking forward to your update!VStar650CL wrote: ↑Thu Jul 21, 2022 7:26 pmThere are DC fans with two speeds, Nissan actually uses some. They have a low speed coil and a high speed coil. The trouble woth using them for a retrofit is, you need a 2-speed controller. Going full variable with a PWM-able BLDC (brushless DC) uses a controller too, but it gives you the advantage of always having the exact right speed instead of powering the fan in pulses. BLDC's are very powerful, too, so generally one big one covers everything. You can drive those Rogue fans variable too, but you'll need a pair of SSR's along with a controller. However, they might already be 2-speed. Let me look it up for you tomorrow and I'll come back with what I think is your best course.
I've actually been expecting this topic to crop up, given how everybody is scrounging for fuel savings these days. You really just gave me an opportunity to run off about it. FYI, I helped WM design the $65 one and it is a nice piece.PATHFINDER99NI wrote: ↑Thu Jul 21, 2022 5:52 pmIll look into that PMW controller. It looks like a nice item for $65.
Hey thanks again for the help, this is much more than I was expecting.
Looks like a good setup. I love the electric fans, its such a huge leap over the mechanical units.Mike W. wrote: ↑Thu Jul 21, 2022 11:50 pmNot exactly what you are talking about, but I'll throw it out there anyway. I added an Aux fan to mine some years ago due to flirting with disaster with the A/C on and extreme temps (110+) in either stop and go traffic or off road climbing steep hills. Being a BMW nut I went with a BMW fan I had in the garage. At that vintage they used a resistor to effect 2 speeds which I used to go with low speed with A/C and high speed at middle of the range of the fan controller I bought. Even in those conditions it hasn't budged since. I've had cars with marginal cooling systems in the past and am head gasket paranoid, so I like a steady temp gauge.
topic616904.html
For me, a crisp cold AC system is my primary goal. I haven't had a proper working AC system in a few years, and this year is really burning my a**. So I went and bought a AC compressor kit that has pretty much everything, and I figured since I was going to get all that, I might as well help it along by getting a proper electric fan setup.VStar650CL wrote: ↑Thu Jul 21, 2022 7:30 pmI've actually been expecting this topic to crop up, given how everybody is scrounging for fuel savings these days. You really just gave me an opportunity to run off about it. FYI, I helped WM design the $65 one and it is a nice piece.PATHFINDER99NI wrote: ↑Thu Jul 21, 2022 5:52 pmIll look into that PMW controller. It looks like a nice item for $65.
Hey thanks again for the help, this is much more than I was expecting.
So if the Rogue fans fit as well as I read that they fit, your module wouldn't have a problem controlling them? It sounds like the wiring will be a bit complicated, but I spliced a '95 Suburban harness to a '04 Suburban harness, so Im sure I can wire up this harness.VStar650CL wrote: ↑Fri Jul 22, 2022 4:33 amIt looks like the gen1 Rogue fans are single speed but with 4 terminals to enable extra wiring for high-low operation. They drive the fans series for low and parallel for high. It's a pretty freaky setup with 5 control relays, I think to avoid using large, expensive relays inside the IPDM. Terminals 1~2 on each fan are power, terminals 3~4 are ground. See page EC-900 here:
https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual ... 0%2FEC.pdf
The bottom line is, the dual setup I showed earlier will work fine with them, but I recommend driving all 4 motor terminals and not just 2 so the internal motor connections share the load.
It won't be a problem if you RTV them after setup as the instructions recommend. WM uses those same DIPs in a crapload of different products. Vibration isn't really an issue but moisture is, you want to seal them up.PATHFINDER99NI wrote: ↑Fri Jul 22, 2022 7:32 amWell it looks like a nice piece, the dip switches have me a little concerned though. Will that be ok with the vibrations in a vehicle?
You can only drive the Rogue setup with PWM if you use an SSR, they aren't designed for variable speed. If you want to go that route, you'll need to measure the current through both fans to see how big an SSR you'll need. Rule of thumb is 3x to 4x the run current, so say the fans draw 15A each at top speed, you'd need either two 45A SSR's or one 90A minimum. If you want to go single-speed 2+1, the diagram I posted earlier would work fine with them. It's also possible to rig them dual speed with a series-parallel setup like the Rogue OE, but you need two switches, one at the "fans on" temperature and one at the "full speed" temperature.PATHFINDER99NI wrote: ↑Fri Jul 22, 2022 7:36 amSo if the Rogue fans fit as well as I read that they fit, your module wouldn't have a problem controlling them? It sounds like the wiring will be a bit complicated, but I spliced a '95 Suburban harness to a '04 Suburban harness, so Im sure I can wire up this harness.
Interesting, I hadn't thought of that. You could mitigate it some by installing the sensor at a lower point, but often coolant loss is the problem not lack of airflow because of it. But for my purposes, hyper extreme conditions I'm concerned about overheating due to lack of airflow, either stopped in traffic or climbing a very steep hill at 7MPH. But really, for the condition you referenced to register you would need a more modern car, say that was built in the early 80s and had a low coolant level sensor.VStar650CL wrote: ↑Sat Jul 23, 2022 3:26 pmBoth of these are decent kits but with one huge no-no, they both use sensors that mount into the radiator fins. That's a cheap work-around to ease installation being used by many aftermarket manufacturers, but as I explained above, in case of a coolant flow loss, it's taking your engine's life in its hands. You're essentially guaranteed to lose the fans just when you need them to be running flat-out.
Three or four. The key is the wire sizes, two fat and one or two skinny is what you're looking for. If you get the VIN off the JY donor before you actually buy it, I can look the car up in Identifix for you and confirm whether it's PWM.
Do you know what year they started using brushless motors? That would help narrow the already expansive field.VStar650CL wrote: ↑Sun Aug 14, 2022 7:06 amThree or four. The key is the wire sizes, two fat and one or two skinny is what you're looking for. If you get the VIN off the JY donor before you actually buy it, I can look the car up in Identifix for you and confirm whether it's PWM.