And so it begins... first plenum pull

[Blurr]

Its been a while since I posted here, so I thought id repost what I posted on projectz32 here too.

As some of ya know, one of the leaks is above the drivers side turbo. Its a slow leak, and hasn't acted up until now has now become a problem. Its definitely coolant, I just dont know which one of those under or around the plenum is leaking. The leak is a slow drip onto the drivers side turbo, Its enough to make steam, so when Im at a stoplight or idling or parked, it looks like its on fire.
Heres is my before pic (after pics to come!)



Earlier last week when I took it over to the shop that I been going to for years, my mechanic said it would be anywhere from 511 to about 650 for labor, not including parts. So tonight, kicked on some 80s/Classic Rock music busted out the snap on tools and got to work.



I got halfway thru the job tonight with the guide from TT.net. I have to get a set of long-nose pliers to get to some of the tubing under the throttle bodies, and yes, that EGR is a pain in the a$$.

I didnt realize the hexagon bolt on the passenger side actually bolted the thing down, and I spent a good 30 minutes going back to the guide to see what else I missed. I skipped a few steps ahead, and still have some of the hoses to disconnect, so ill get to em this week.

Im actually scared because of all the loose cables from the harness, so I did my best to label them all, what they are etc. I also noticed that as I was taking things off, the manifold had a few cracks, especially around where the balance tube was, so I got another one on order. I think the guy who owned it before me must have put bigger dowels for the balance tube which made it crack.



Another thing happened too which pissed me off, but im wondering if it was like that when I purchased her. The coil pack I labeled number 5 broke apart when I was taking it off. It looks like it was already broken cause the slightest pressure made it crumble.I didn't hear any cracking when I was taking it off, I just came apart like a set of lego blocks. Anyone have a spare coil pack they could sell me? Should I consider replacing them all at once




Thanks to BigTDogg for providing me the following and helping me out! Ive decide to do the same as his since I love the finish. Although mine will still be the bronze theme I originally went with, with new black and red hoses, maybe grey.





Some other things i wanna do is get to the O2 sensors and replace them. Is it easier with the plenum off to get to them this time around? I tried using one of those tools I got form Oriley's to get the damn things off, but there wasn't enough clearance to get to em with that tool. I found that trying to get to them while it was next to near impossible. Also the heater hoses I got from Z1, and clean up some of the excess hoses and connectors that are either broken, missing clips or corroded.

I need recommendations here, I been considering this kit on ebay for the gasket set. I still need the half moons from CZP, and ill replace the paper gasket for the IACV too. What others are missing should I get form Z1, CZP, etc?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-96-NI ... 1876wt_941

Also need a recommendation on Injectors. If its revealed that the stock injectors are there, I wanna replace them with higher ones, and was told to get 555 Nismo ones.

[vulcanrush]

Also need a recommendation on Injectors. If its revealed that the stock injectors are there, I wanna replace them with higher ones, and was told to get 555 Nismo ones.

get the nismo740cc's...there's no downside to running them, you get more/greater capacity in case you upgrade turbo's later, they're better at handling ethanol (compared to old-school 555cc's, 615cc's are cool, though), and they're actually even cheaper by a few dollars, if i'm not mistaken? really no downside.

[fyneyoungstunna]

I just did mine last week.
Do yourself a favor and do some of the deletes to make it easier. If you want to get realy indepth in deleting you should do the fuel line reroute, I just did most of them and mand i can pull my plenum off again in no time. Other than that good luck and take your time.

[Blurr]

Any writeups on the Fuelline reroute fyneyoungstunna?

[Ba11erz]

Any writeups on the Fuelline reroute fyneyoungstunna?

Can you explain in further detail your intent for re-routing the fuel line(s)?

There are a myriad of ways (e.g. kit types) to upgrade your fuel rail along with multiple configurations to route the fuel line.

No added benefit that I'm aware of for re-routing the stock fuel lines unless you want to completely remove the hard lines.
Here's a writeup that supports removing the hard lines: (http://www.twinturbo.net/net/viewmsg.as ... _id=901651)

If you have the plenum off, it's recommended you thoroughly inspect the fuel lines for any leaks if they haven't been changed and replace where necessary.

Good luck.
{splat}

[BigTDogg (MA)]

I got halfway thru the job tonight with the guide from TT.net. I have to get a set of long-nose pliers to get to some of the tubing under the throttle bodies, and yes, that EGR is a pain in the a$$.

I didnt realize the hexagon bolt on the passenger side actually bolted the thing down, and I spent a good 30 minutes going back to the guide to see what else I missed. I skipped a few steps ahead, and still have some of the hoses to disconnect, so ill get to em this week.

Im actually scared because of all the loose cables from the harness, so I did my best to label them all, what they are etc. I also noticed that as I was taking things off, the manifold had a few cracks, especially around where the balance tube was, so I got another one on order. I think the guy who owned it before me must have put bigger dowels for the balance tube which made it crack.

Another thing happened too which pissed me off, but im wondering if it was like that when I purchased her. The coil pack I labeled number 5 broke apart when I was taking it off. It looks like it was already broken cause the slightest pressure made it crumble.I didn't hear any cracking when I was taking it off, I just came apart like a set of lego blocks. Anyone have a spare coil pack they could sell me? Should I consider replacing them all at once

Thanks to BigTDogg for providing me the following and helping me out! Ive decide to do the same as his since I love the finish. Although mine will still be the bronze theme I originally went with, with new black and red hoses, maybe grey.

Some other things i wanna do is get to the O2 sensors and replace them. Is it easier with the plenum off to get to them this time around? I tried using one of those tools I got form Oriley's to get the damn things off, but there wasn't enough clearance to get to em with that tool. I found that trying to get to them while it was next to near impossible. Also the heater hoses I got from Z1, and clean up some of the excess hoses and connectors that are either broken, missing clips or corroded.

I need recommendations here, I been considering this kit on ebay for the gasket set. I still need the half moons from CZP, and ill replace the paper gasket for the IACV too. What others are missing should I get form Z1, CZP, etc?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-96-NI ... 1876wt_941

Also need a recommendation on Injectors. If its revealed that the stock injectors are there, I wanna replace them with higher ones, and was told to get 555 Nismo ones.

Getting the EGR out with the engine in is a PITA. Good luck with that if you're planning on removing it. If it works, may as well just leave it. I had my engine out when I removed mine, but it can be done with the transmission down and plenum off. Just need a stubby ratcheting 10mm wrench. A 10mm on a 1/4" universal will get the bolts under the plenum off easier next time.

VR is right, get the 740's. You can probably save some money by getting the JECS ones, they're the OEM supplier for Nissan and Nismo. The old style injectors suck. You can get the adapter kit from Z1 to run new injectors in old rails, or you can get the 300° fuel rail kit.

I'd stay away from non OEM gaskets, no sense in the risk. You don't need more than half of those gaskets there. If you're removing the lower plenum, you need to replace the lower plenum to head gaskets, and those are pricey. But you only need to do those when you remove the lower plenum, which shouldn't be for at least another 90k miles or so. You don't need head gaskets, or oil pump gaskets etc etc. Get the upper to lower plenum gasket, the IACV gasket, Throttle body gaskets (if you separate them, if not, leave them be, but probably need to separate to do the bypass).

Keep your fuel hardline. No real point in deleting it, IMHO. DO replace all the fuel lines, now is the best time to do it. You can use any SAE30R9 5/16" fuel injection hose, but I always use Nissan OEM to be safe. Be sure to orient the clamps on the hose between the rails so you can tighten them once the plenum is installed. Do like Robo does here otherwise they are impossible to reach, and they will need to be tightened. Or you can use the OEM coolant spring clamps, just use brand new ones so they have maximum spring force. These are the clamps I'm talking about


Do the water line delete for the throttle bodies, that'll probably take care of your leak. Tighten up the compressor outlet hoses and other hard to reach things while you have access.

The open end wrench for the O2s will probably work best, and they may be easier to reach underneath the car.

I have extra coil packs I can sell individually, I think I have 4. You can do them one at a time, as they're easy enough to replace if they fail. PM/Email me for pricing and shipping.

Don't forget to cover any holes you open, i.e. lower plenum, intake hoses, outlet hoses, IC tubes... don't want anything sneaking in there.

[Blurr]

Thx BigTDogg, I sent you a PM.

So today Im trying to source where the leak was coming from. I took the day off to spend to clean it up, and prepare it for my new plenum thats coming. I see two lines on the plenum that I suspect to be the culprit.

Are there any other lines I should be aware of below the PCV or EGR lines at the back of the more to replace? Im having a b**** of a time removing the rear pcv valve. Anyone have a good method of doing this? I wanna clean that up back there.

Still debating on doing the EGR pull. I see some people who have great success removing it while others have a b**** of a time and end up with a set of bloody knuckles for days.

have two questions that puzzle me right now.

I see the wastegate on the drivers side. The wastegate line is not plugged into anything, and its the same for the pass side. there is also a line coming out of the tube infront of the turbos thats not plugged into anything. Should these be connected together?



Think I figured out what that frayed cable was in the back. a ground for the engine. but there are two which kinda makes me wonder wtf.

There is also a line i would like to replace but dont know how to get to it. Its under where the EGR line runs, and its the only other coolant line I can see that could possibly be causing the leak on the drivers side. How do i get to this troublesome line? Its above the lines in the pic above.

Is there any other coolant lines that are under the PCV and EGR valve lines? I reached back there and came out with a handful of oil.

Strongly considering removing the entire motor and working on it outside the car. Kinda scared cause i never did nothing like that before but willing to give it a shot if it will make replacing some of these things easier.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

Thx BigTDogg, I sent you a PM.

So today Im trying to source where the leak was coming from. I took the day off to spend to clean it up, and prepare it for my new plenum thats coming. I see two lines on the plenum that I suspect to be the culprit.

Good, that was most likely the source of your leak. Eliminating those is a good start.

Are there any other lines I should be aware of below the PCV or EGR lines at the back of the more to replace? Im having a b**** of a time removing the rear pcv valve. Anyone have a good method of doing this? I wanna clean that up back there.

There is no rear PCV. The two PCV valves are screwed into the plenum. The hoses go around the back, but there is no valve in there. IMHO, again, leave the EGR.

I see the wastegate on the drivers side. The wastegate line is not plugged into anything, and its the same for the pass side. there is also a line coming out of the tube infront of the turbos thats not plugged into anything. Should these be connected together?

Ummmmm.... yeah, that's ghetto. Do you have a boost controller, or did you plan to install one? Now would be the time to do it. Those lines should be tied into the stock boost solenoids at the very least, or a boost controller solenoid if you have one. The hose to the left appears to be coming from the hardpipe, yes? That goes to your recirculation valve. That should be connected to the plenum on the driver's side. Was that also disconnected? Here is a vacuum line diagram:



From TT.net's FAQ section

Think I figured out what that frayed cable was in the back. a ground for the engine. but there are two which kinda makes me wonder wtf.

Yep, they're are 2 or 3 connections crimped to terminals. You can see it in the center of this pic; my grounding harness comes from the left, the OEM terminal from the right. Just strip the wire back a bit and crimp on new ring terminals and reground at the back of the plenum. IIRC, they connect at two different places, but it really doesn't matter, as long as their grounded.

There is also a line i would like to replace but dont know how to get to it. Its under where the EGR line runs, and its the only other coolant line I can see that could possibly be causing the leak on the drivers side. How do i get to this troublesome line? Its above the lines in the pic above. Is there any other coolant lines that are under the PCV and EGR valve lines? I reached back there and came out with a handful of oil.

If it's above that picture, it's probably the coolant supply line for the turbo. You will be replacing that anyway with the throttle body bypass. See below, the hardline at the back of the turbo used to face forward, but I bent it up and back.

Before


After


You can just run a rubber line from that hardline to the pipe on the back of the motor. Do you have the throttle body bypass how-to?

Strongly considering removing the entire motor and working on it outside the car. Kinda scared cause i never did nothing like that before but willing to give it a shot if it will make replacing some of these things easier.

Be careful, the laundry list gets very long at that point. And expensive. "while the engine's out I should..." The... is 1, 2, 3 grand

[Blurr]

Im lookin at replacin the upper fuel rail out with the chrome ones from ConceptZ Performance.

Does anyone know if I need to buy both?

300-17520-VP100
300-17540-CZP00

[BigTDogg (MA)]

300-17520-VP100, 300-17540-CZP00

17450 is the one before the fuel filter, going down the fender

the 17520 is the one on top of the plenum.

I just got the 520 and had the other one powdercoated.

[Blurr]

I think ill do both...

Im going to need some help with what is what when hooking things back up. entire engine bay is a mess with wires and stuff everywhere I think im a bit lost. I did my best to label what I had tho, wiring harness, etc.

I want to find a place to do this to my Intake mani coming in the mail. anyone know a place?

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5Ec7dCZSto[/youtube]

[CrazedZ32Owner]

sorry to go off topic but that was awesome

[Blurr]

Thanks Crazed...

Ya there was a place that did it here in San Jose, But the shop owner I know closed it down, Now I don't know where to get it done at.

I found one place, but I dont think they do automotive parts. Will find out and let people know if they are interested when I get mine done and prepped for powder coating.

[Blurr]

So, over the course of the last 2 days, I ended up purchasing all my parts from ConceptZ Performance. I goofed the other night when I was working around the fuel line, and ended up bending and breaking the line that goes to my FPR, so, I ordered another.

Heres my current parts list of everything bought for the rebuild

SKU: 300-17520-VP100
Item Name: Concours 300ZX Chrome Fuel Rail
Cost: $75.00
Tax: 0.00
Quantity: 1
Total Cost: $75.00

SKU: 300-92400-CZP
Item Name: CZP 300ZX Silicone Heater Core Hoses Red
Cost: $25.49
Tax: 0.00
Quantity: 1
Total Cost: $25.49

SKU: 300-14099-CZP
Item Name: CZP 300ZX Silicone Idle Hose Kit (AAC/IACV) - Twin Turbo Red
Cost: $43.99
Tax: 0.00
Quantity: 1
Total Cost: $43.99

SKU: NIS300-23785-40F
Item Name: Nissan OEM 300ZX AAC(IACV) Valve Gasket
Cost: $2.20
Tax: 0.00
Quantity: 1
Total Cost: $2.20

SKU: NIS300-11820-HKTTT-S2
Item Name: CZP 300ZX Silicone PCV Hose Kit w/ PCV Valves - Twin Turbo
Cost: $83.99
Tax: 0.00
Quantity: 1
Total Cost: $83.99

SKU: NIS300-17520
Item Name: Nissan OEM 300ZX Fuel Rails 1990-1994 Twin Turbo
Cost: $160.00
Tax: 0.00
Quantity: 1
Total Cost: $160.00

SKU: NIS300-16618-10VKT
Item Name: Nissan OEM 300ZX Fuel Injector O-ring Set 90-94TT/90-92NA(93CV)
Cost: $26.20
Tax: 0.00
Quantity: 1
Total Cost: $26.20

SKU: NIS300-85096
Item Name: Nissan OEM 300ZX Rear License Plate Grommet
Cost: $2.45
Tax: 0.00
Quantity: 2
Total Cost: $4.90

SKU: NIS300-17522-30P10
Item Name: Nissan OEM 300ZX Fuel Rail Pipe Grommet
Cost: $3.00
Tax: 0.00
Quantity: 12
Total Cost: $36.00

Total for everything: 505.95

For now, until I can save and get some newer fuel Injectors and a 300 Deg fuel line, I opted for a new replacement one and not a used one from Z1. I also believe that fuel smell had to be coming from that line as it may have already had a split or crack in it.

Need some help though. For the bypass can I just used standard hoses I can get cut to length from an auto store, or should I go ahead and get some from either ConceptZ or Z1? What Sizes do I need?

Can someone tell me after I post pics if I have all the hoses needed for the back of the motor? I dont know if I actually got all of the ones in some of the kits I got.

(BTW, Im really dissapointed in the heater hoses I got from Z1. One of them is malformed and doesnt wanna connect right.

I also need a recommendation on hose clamps, I dont wanna use the ones from an autostore and would rather upgrade the ones than use the same ones, any recommendations?

[BigTDogg (MA)]

For now, until I can save and get some newer fuel Injectors and a 300 Deg fuel line, I opted for a new replacement one and not a used one from Z1. I also believe that fuel smell had to be coming from that line as it may have already had a split or crack in it.

Need some help though. For the bypass can I just used standard hoses I can get cut to length from an auto store, or should I go ahead and get some from either ConceptZ or Z1? What Sizes do I need?

Can someone tell me after I post pics if I have all the hoses needed for the back of the motor? I dont know if I actually got all of the ones in some of the kits I got.

(BTW, Im really dissapointed in the heater hoses I got from Z1. One of them is malformed and doesnt wanna connect right.

I also need a recommendation on hose clamps, I dont wanna use the ones from an autostore and would rather upgrade the ones than use the same ones, any recommendations?

IIRC, for the throttle body bypass I just used a prepackaged length (7 or 10 feet) of 1/4 SAE30R7 fuel hose (the non-fuel injected stuff). You'll have left overs, but that's better than not enough. For the clamps, you can use stainless worm gear clamps. I don't think CZP or Z1 sell bypass hoses, it's more of a DIY thing.

My heater core hoses from Z1 were fine. I even saved a few bucks by getting the burnt orange ones, since they can't be seen once installed. I used a bit of blue silicone on each end of the hoses, along with a stainless worm gear clamp.

For the turbo feed hoses, and other coolant hoses, the same fuel hose is fine, and cheaper than the preformed OEM hoses.

For fuel hoses, use only OEM Nissan hose or a SAE30R9 5/16" hose, and only OEM fuel line clamps.

[Blurr]

So today I got the plenum back, and it looks GREAT! The ultrasonic cleaning did wonders for the old plenum. Removed all the carbon buildup, and the entire thing is shiny and ready for powder coating. He also thoroughly cleaned the throttle bodies, and they will be ready for powder coating match.

Those who are looking at prepping their plenum, lemme know. the guy who did mine cuts a great deal for us if you guys decide to use em, its like 50 bucks or something for the entire process, and they even clean the parts for you after and package it up!

I also got half my order from concept Z, the hoses and the chromed fuel rail for the top.

Ive decided to see if I can manage getting custom clamps as I dont like the black ones that were on the smaller hoses. I may use some of them, but not all. They were really difficult to remove, and if for some reason I dont get the leak the first time around, Id like to salvage what hoses I can without having to cut or buy others if it needs to come apart again.

The company I have chosen is clampco, and they create made to order clamps. I just need to measure the diameter of the current clamps I have. I dont like they way the worm ones with the riviting cuts into the hoses, so Im thinking these would be an ideal choice for me.

I figure, since this is the last car I am going to build, Ill do what i can to do things right than cut corners (for the new hoses anyways)

Heres a sample of the t-bolt clamps they have, these are the standard ones.



And the ones I wanna see if they build custom order maybe the one below.



I have some photos I can post of the plenum to show off what was done, so Ill upload them when I can so you guys can see the process of what was done.

I also will be taking a few photos of hoses I need part numbers for, since im getting lost on courtesy nissan and dont see them either on Z1 or CZP.

More to come.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

The black ones, on the smaller hoses, are honestly the best option. Unless you get a spring-loaded T-bolt clamp, anything else will be useless. The spring loaded OEM ones keep constant tension on the hose, regardless of temperature. Nissan even used them for fuel hose applications after 97. Great clamps. IMHO, and IME, just order a bunch of new OEM spring clamps and call it a day, there are better things to OCD about during a plenum pull

They come in black and silver, as shown on my wastegate hoses a few posts up.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/14056a-cla ... 82557.html

That'll work for all the water hoses shown in this diagram:



From this page:

http://www.courtesyparts.com/300zx-part ... 8_912.html

[Blurr]

Ok...

So now im weary that the one line I cannot get to may be the one thats leaking. FML

out of all the piping that I have removed from the Plenum, none from what I saw had any breaks that I could see.

There is one rubber line Im wondering If I can get to from under the car. Hoping. If not, my mechanic might be able to get to it, I just rather do the work myself.



the one with the clamp point down from the coolant pipe sits right around where it was leaking. Does this line run coolant, and to where?

[BigTDogg (MA)]

the one with the clamp point down from the coolant pipe sits right around where it was leaking. Does this line run coolant, and to where?

I can answer you, but you're not going to like the answer.

It's your driver side coolant pipe. It supplies (or returns) coolant to (or from) the turbo. I forget which it is, but it's a coolant hose, and it's the reason I decided to pull my engine. It's the 14056NK hose in the diagram above. I dropped my transmission, couldn't get it out. I'll be the first to say that many others have got it out with just a transmission drop, but with the EGR in and my limited working area, I eventually gave up, said "f*** it" and pulled the engine.

From the top, with plenum off and the EGR out, you MAY be able to get to it. You'd definitely have to have either the transmission out, or the brake master cylinder out, IMHO, to access it.

Easier to see and visualize here:

[Blurr]

FML.

Why did nissan put the coolant line back there? Looks like Ill need an engine pulling guide...

[BigTDogg (MA)]

Give it a shot while it's still in there. Might be able to get it out with the transmission down. Where are you located, might be some good Z mechanics in your area.

Otherwise the engine pull list of stuff to do/get is long...and expensive.

[Blurr]

Another question I have is how can I remove the other half of the Valve Covers? I pulled all the bolts but cant seem to crack it loose.

Since Im having the other ones Powder coated, I wanna get both sides done rather than just the one.

I wanna powdercoat both sides.



Worst comes to worst If I dont get the leak from the plenum pull, Ill have the shop do it since that line I cant reach without the engine out, plus I'm limited by space in the driveway and Im on a slope.

[Blurr]

I've decided on the color for the plenum.

I think they finish that BigT has on his is similar to extrude chrome in this picture.



Ive opted for this finish, which is called Solar Black Chrome, its a transparent chrome finish,



For all the nuts and bolts I'm probably going to have them finished in the same tone as the first pic, I got my SS bolt Kit.

Just waiting on a bigger oven so they can bake the plenum.

Question for you guys who have had your valve covers powdercoated. the plastic tabs that run on the underside of the plenum, are these ok for up to 400 degrees? dont wanna melt em in the oven.


= )

[BigTDogg (MA)]

Another question I have is how can I remove the other half of the Valve Covers? I pulled all the bolts but cant seem to crack it loose.

The intake (yellow in that pic) or exhaust side (already off in that pic)

Either one you just tap it with a rubber mallet to knock it loose. The intake side actually has a gasket, the exhaust side uses liquid gasket.

The plastic things might melt, but if they do just break them off. I'd be more concerned with thier sandblasting. YOU DO NOT WANT any sandblasting/mediablasting material to get caught in the baffles. That will cause catestrophic engine damage. Be sure the PCer masks the part correctly.

[Blurr]

Sorry I havent updated this in a while guys. Work and club promo have been taking up too much time.

So after cleaning up my lower intake plenum, I noticed that these are a bit loose. (this is not my motor btw, just a shot i found on tt for reference, sure wish it was tho)



Both left and right intake gaskets to the lower intake plenum are freely moving, and doesnt feel like a good seal is between the two. I dont know if this is after I removed the4 bolts for the lower plenum or not and if there was just no good seal between the two previously or not. Do these get loose after removing the 4 nuts for the lower plenum?

Today project Im going to tackle is the wireharness and getting it cleaned up. I may shoot some video to show you guys what im talking about...

[BigTDogg (MA)]

If you remove the lower plenum, of course the gaskets are going to move around. Even if you remove the bolts, I would expect it to move around somewhat. The clamping force is what seals the LP to the heads.

As long as there is rubber on the metal part of that gasket, they were working. IMHO, I would replace with new OEM once you remove the LP though. They'll last you another 60K + miles, but should be replaced for best sealing.

[GerryO]

Are you in San Jose?

Generally speaking, gaskets such as these are replaced whenever things are taken apart, but I also haven't read the FSM section on removing the lower intake manifold/plenum.

[Blurr]

Are you in San Jose?

Generally speakings, gaskets such as these are replaced whenever things are taken apart, but I also haven't read the FSM section on removing the lower intake manifold/plenum.

Hey Gerry0, yes are you? Still waitin on parts to get to me from my powdercoater and have powdercoating to offfer everyone here at low cost later if you like what youll see when its done... = )

[Blurr]

Hey everyone,

So I been hard at work with rebuilding, buying parts and refinishing alot of the bolts, and clips. I decided to resuse the ones I have, rather than get new ones, and just buy any new ones ill need. I may change my mind as i get closer to putting things back together, we will see as I get closer to finishing.

So after I ripped the plenum off, and stripped most of the screws on the valve cover, I attempted at getting some from CZP. If I did get them, Id be out 130 some bucks. I decided to go to my local OCH to see what I could find as a replacement, and these are what I found.

I found bolts that were the same exact diameter and length as the stock OEM ones, and these are zinc plated. The chrome ones costed more, so I just decided to go with these. I also fitted the fuel rail with these bolts as well.



The washers I got are called sealer washers, and are rubberized on the bottom. Total cost for all $15.65. Definitely a better buy than the CZP OEM bolts. These also will not scratch or mar the finish on the valve covers.



Heres what I started with:







As you can see, the plenum was covered with dirt, grime, and a greasy carbon buildup inside and around the plenum ports, fuel rail, and EGR valves that hook into the plenum. So, I went to town armed with my wet or dry sandpaper, 2 toothbrushes, rags, a shopvac, dremmel, and Simple Green.

This is what I wound up with:



I took all the parts off including the top heater hose connectors, and polished them, The method I used to was to sand them down with 800 grit wet or dry, then used plenty of mothers blue metal polish and elbow grease. I did the same thing for the entire tubing behind the lower plenum, and learned how to take it off easily (Was a B*tch to get out)



For now Im not entirely sure about the leak, and if this will remedy it, But to be safe I ordered every single piece of tubing I could to resolve it. I still think its the turbo coolant hose I cant get to unless I drop the transmission.

Heres a shot of the ultrasonically cleaned plenum. I had done a few weeks thats been sitting around for me to refinish it.



Throttle bodies & IACV I got ultrasonically cleaned.







Since Im doing the water coolant bypass, I went ahead and cut off all the metal tubing. The next step is to take the thing apart and replace all the springs. and polish out and colorize the throttle body flaps, to match valve covers. I may just keep them straight metal color and polish it out, or upgrade to the z1 throttle bodies.

For the turbo pipes, Instead of opting for the chrome hardpipes everyone got, I got hardpipes that are black. So I decided to keep the black tone for the turbo pipes,and do krinkle paint on em. This is my first attempt at working with krinkle, so it kinda came out ok. I may redo them.

Heres some other photos of the rebuild. Also for now, Im going to keep using the same injectors. If that leak is fixed with what im doing now, then ill upgrade, Ya I'll have to tear it apart again, but it will be much easier this time without having to pull all those water lines going everywhere under the plenum. Does anyone know if i need washers for the fuel injectors?

Thanks everyone for the help! Hope things are lookin ok with my rebuild.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

OK couple of things.

- First, your injectors are in backwards, the connectors need to face away from the plenum. They should be positioned like they are in your before pic. D'oh!
- Second, adjust your fuel clamps on the center hose to be like this:



This will allow you to adjust them while the plenum is still on. How you have them now, they are impossible to reach.

- Third, not sure how well the wrinkle coat will seal on the turbo outlet hoses.

- Fourth, you can reuse those washers from the valve covers with your new bolts and the washers you got. I would have gone stainless, but Zinc plated will last a while too.
IMHO, no point in painting the TB flaps, they're never seen. Ever.

Hope that helps,
T