And so it begins... first plenum pull

[Blurr]

HA

I just realized that. DOH! Thanks T.

So wait why would I need to adjust the fuel tube? I thought once its on its on?

[BigTDogg (MA)]

HA

I just realized that. DOH! Thanks T.

So wait why would I need to adjust the fuel tube? I thought once its on its on?

No prob, that's what we're here for

Not the fuel tube, the clamps. The hose shrinks in the cooler temps, causing leaks, so you need to tighten the clamps from time to time. Those two are not accessable unless you rotate them as I showed, or do both like the right side clamp (facing forward). I forgot to do this on mine and I'm kicking my self now, figured I'd save you the headache.

[awesomekasim]

Make sure you seat your injectors in properly. The o-rings need to be lube and the injector needs to be pressed in the rail FULLY by hand and then the cap tightened down on it. When you are tightening the injector cap, you dont want it to be pushing the injector into the rail. Seat by hand first, then put cap on

[awesomekasim]

And for the coolant hose above the transmission (i have never accessed it unless the trans was down), try jacking up the back of the transmission up about an inch or so. You might want to remove the trans mount so it doesnt rip. This is how i removed my EGR while the motor and trans was in the car. Just an idea. Im not sure if it will allow you enough room still

[BigTDogg (MA)]

http://s95014253.onlinehome.us/63104/155876.html

Blurr, that's another way to set your fuel clamps

[Blurr]

Thx BigT...

I need some help, and the yuckos at Nissan have no Idea what Im talking about.

I need these brackets, I bought off CZP. They dont have any currently, Was wondering if you or anyone knew the part number or what these are called.

Does anyone have these lying around they dont need? If not the part numbers and the REAL

RH Accessory Bracket
http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart ... e=300&UID=

Idle air control valve Bracket
http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart ... e=300&UID=

BigT, i see you have a different one though on your engine. Whered you get yours?

[BigTDogg (MA)]

On the passenger side, I completely eliminated that bracket. I have no EGR, AIV or OEM boost solenoids, so that bracket is of no use to me. What you see there is the Stillen engine damper brace, and the black box is my HKS stepper motor.

I definitely have the second part, and may even have the first bracket as well. I can check this weekend.

[Blurr]

Dude that would be awesome if you had em. Please lemme know. COZ says they need cores to do mine....

Do I really need the boost solenoids? If not I wanna remove em. Whats a HKS stepper motor? If price is right I wanna get one if its something I can put to use.

I did the waterhose bypass and put everything back together on the engine, and the plenum tonight. Now just gotta fit everything back on and hook everything back up.

The black chrome looks ok on this plenum. I shoulda just kept it silver though. Kinda clashes with my Red hoses a bit, but i think it will work....

At different angles the black changes color from purplish to black, to shades of grey... Kinda cool I think. What do you guys think? I used 2coats of duplicolor clear too. I hope this pretty paint holds up.

I think it looks ok too with the Bronze Throttle cable too, but we will see once its all back together. I need to get that sticker set from TT.net though, I think maybe yellow, but not sure what will go with black and Bronze. Maybe Grey or Gunmetal color on the bronze to go with the black?

I also polished out the throttle cable thingys on the front which was a b**** with my dremel and bits. This blue metal polish stuff I got works wonders on metals, just turns your hands black.



About the gasket for the plenum to the lower plenum. How should I put it on? On the plenum first, or on the lower plenum with gasket on both sides?

Btw, if you guys are looking for powercoating, please let me know. I can get the parts for you ultrasonically cleaned for 70 bucks, and the powercoating on the plenums wont cost you a boatload, around 150 and 50 for polishing if you guys want it polished. My guy also does sandblasting, we can put something together for you.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

I have the IACV pipe, see below. I can snap a pic of my actual pipe and PM/email you with it. I cut off the part circled in red, because I didn't need it with the way I routed my harness. I didn't have the plastic cover the OEM harness comes with, so it was just dangling. I don't think Coz would accept it as a core, so I don't know if it would do you any good. Sorry dude.



The one I have for sale is painted satin black, matches my timing and fan covers. The one I have below on my car is powdercoated to match my coil pack brackets and other gunmetal parts. It does have the bracket thing on it, because my new 1995 harness had the plastic EFI guide.



For the plenum gasket, just lay it on top of the lower plenum and slowly attach the upper plenum.

If you get a boost controller, you don't need the boost solenoids. You can 100% eliminate them. Or you can run with them, allowing your ECU to retain the safety boost feature. I elected to delete for simplicity and to reduce the number of vacuum lines.

The stepper motor or solenoid is the part of my HKS boost controller which actuates the wastegate actuators. The black box is in the bottom left of this HKS Diagram, with my color coordinated hoses shown:



Black goes to wastegate actuators
Red reads compressor outlet pressure
Silver reads manifold pressure

[Blurr]

Send me pix if you can BigT of the IACV tube you have for sale. So you only have the IACV and not the other? Again if you have em, ill take em both.

Also, I broke one of the vacuum hose lines on the little box thats connected to my passenger-side firewall, Its a relay thats connected there, the top one. What are these? There is a slew of them that are connected at that junction to the balance tube. I was replacing the lines when the tab broke off even on one of them. Ill see if I can take photos tonight.

[Blurr]

Sorry for the late post guys...

BIGTDOGG, thank you for all the help!

Heres my post with pictures I have up on ProjectZ32.com

Hey everyone,

First off, thanks to everyone for the help. Without you guys helping out I don't think I could have done this myself, and although I still have minor problems, its comforting knowing that I know whats actually under the hood now, and what went in. I gained lots of knowledge doing this myself. It actually turned out better than I thought it would. This coming monday, Im putting in a call over to Greg at Speciality, and setting up a ship date for them to receive my car to resolve the problems. I just don't feel comfortable leaving it in the hands of some of the mechanics here in San Jose. My AAA will flatbed the car down to him, and Greg mentioned he would leave it at his place to work on it. I also will have them install a EVC while its down there, and check everything for me that I might have messed up on. Pretty confident I did hook everything up right though (sorta)

Note: I changed the plenum because I wasn't happy with the end result of it being black chrome. it just didn't flow right with the color scheme I wanted for the engine. So I did the work myself again and painted it with Duplicolor Nissan Pewter Bronze, and about 12-13 of clearcoat. After, I polished the plenum with rubbing compound, and wax. The end result was it being really shiny. I think this matched the red, and yellow I used.

So I finally got around to bolting everything back together, and putting the plenum back in. I replaced all the lines I could to resolve the leak problem I was facing, but still have the leak. It has to be the turbo coolant hoses on the back of the motor I wasn't able to get to. Also while I had things off, I tried to get the o2 sensors off, but they were stuck on there. I sprayed alot of blaster on and around them, so Im thinking that the smoke Im seeing at idle is due to that burning off. Alas, no matter how hard I tried, I couldn't get em off. So I left them in. Kinda disappointed. Also it idles, but its loopy. Im not completely confident that I got the wiring right, but did manage to rewrap the wiring harness.



I followed Stadsports guide for the EGR/AIV Solenoid setup, but confused. There is a hose line coming out from the firewall by the battery, this hose was interconnected to the rats nest of hoses. In front of the battery, there was another hose, So im wondering if both of these, are the AIV's. I still have both Sensors, but rerouted things.

Below is where I capped things off all dotted in Red. I couldnt find a diagram to show this after a plenum pull, and some of the writeups are a bit hard to work with if your a first timer, so I thought doing this would help those who are going to do the pull in the future to know how things are routed. Heres how I have things setup. (Stadsport I redesigned your diagram to show where things should be capped off, Hope I got it right)

One question I have is, on the drivers side where the boost sensor is at, The line was also ran along the length of the engine bay with the boost sensor, What line is this, and how does it plug into the rats nest of Vaccum lines? I marked this in the diagram with an X.

Also, since the lines for the throttle bodies are now capped, I eliminated the bracket and the excess lines, and the right hand side bracket.



Im also having trouble with boost and hesitation. I made sure I connected everything the way it should be. Via this picture where it says factory boost solenoid, I ran a yellow vacuum hose to the black Intake tube, then red hoses like how its pictured in pic 2. Before I repaired the boost sensor signal, my boost gauge was reading dead zero. after rerouting, I have boost but only when revving, When I drive, the boost is restricting, and only hits around +3 on the gauge. It hesitates alot and sputters.

Pic 1:


Pic 2:


Questions I have right now are.

How the hell do you get the EGR bolts back into the underside of the plenum? I was only able to get one in on the passenger side?

Would not bolting these back in be causing my hesitation?

Heres a bunch of photos of the progress during putting thing back together. I really wish I would have took some photos during the wireharness rewrap it took a good 4-5 hours, and Im still gonna go back in and do some more wrapping.





























Once again, big thanks to all of you who helped me and continue helping me with my Z!

[BigTDogg (MA)]

Nice dude, glad you got it back together! Sending it to Greg is a great idea, as he's one of the best. However, for future reference, Z Car Garage in San Jose is supposed to be excellent. The previous owner of my Z had a lot of work done there and had nothing but great things to say.

First, the EGR bolts on the underside of the plenum. I used a 1/4" drive universal joint and a 10mm socket to reach them. I had the compressor outlet hardpipes off, but had the holes plugged.

Second. DO NOT DRIVE YOUR CAR ANY MORE!! Your fuel filter exit hose is WAAAAAY too short. You should have a nice fat buldge in there, you need to allow for engine movement. It should look more like this:

[Blurr]

Thx dude. I found out that the loopy idle was from the Carbon Canister being hooked up still leaving a big vacuum leak. So now it idles, but its still smoking at idle. Looks like its right around where the turbo is at, but then again Im wondering if its either PB blaster, or the WD40 burning off that I sprayed on the o2 sensor I tried to remove....

I can also still hear that leak, but its intermittent, its not always dripping. Only after a few minutes of driving around hard does it begin to leak.

What could be causing no/low boost? Could a leak from the EGR bolts not being attached be it?

Stuck wastegates, or my routing?

Can someone give me a clearer picture of how things are routed for the boost lines? Just wanna make sure I got things right....

[BigTDogg (MA)]

What color smoke at idle? White, black or blue? Does it smell sweet?

I'm thinking it could be your routing, but missing the EGR bolts creates a HUGE boost leak.

Do you have test pipes? You should eliminate your AIVs, they're useless. Save you some more vacuum lines.

[Blurr]

doesnt smell sweet, which is making me think that its possibly just the wd40 or pbblaster I used to try to get those o2 sensors off. after a while the smoke dissipates.But its coming right around where the turbo is at.

What Im wondering is if I put the boost solenoid lines in right or not. Before I didnt have this problem when things were capped off, but when plugging things back in Im having boost problems.

Also, wondering if I could be somehow frying my turbo if its not hooked up right...

[BigTDogg (MA)]

doesnt smell sweet, which is making me think that its possibly just the wd40 or pbblaster I used to try to get those o2 sensors off. after a while the smoke dissipates.But its coming right around where the turbo is at.

What Im wondering is if I put the boost solenoid lines in right or not. Before I didnt have this problem when things were capped off, but when plugging things back in Im having boost problems.

Also, wondering if I could be somehow frying my turbo if its not hooked up right...

You could fry it if the oil and coolant weren't connected correctly, but not if there's waste gate connection issues.

I think wastegate pressure for stockers is 7PSI, normal boost for a stock TT is 9PSI. I think Greg would be your best bet for diagnosing this as I've never had the paitence for the stock boost controll system and have always just installed an aftermarket boost controller.

[Blurr]

You know what.....

I just realized i have a greddy profec b II in my car. DOH! Its just not installed and im missing all the hardware.

What should I buy from Greddy for this thing? Im going to drop the stock boost jets and boost solenoids, and go with the EBC install instead. There has to be some reason why things were capped off, Do wastegates ever go bad?

[BigTDogg (MA)]

You know what.....

I just realized i have a greddy profec b II in my car. DOH! Its just not installed and im missing all the hardware.

What should I buy from Greddy for this thing? Im going to drop the stock boost jets and boost solenoids, and go with the EBC install instead. There has to be some reason why things were capped off, Do wastegates ever go bad?

Very rarely, but wastegate actuators fail all the time. The actuator is what receives the vacuum signal.

What do you need for parts for your Profec? Do you have the boost solenoid? You can hook up a boost controller so that you still get safety boost if the ECU throws a code, but I'd have to look into how it's done. I like it simple, as I plumbed it in the diagram (red silver black) on the first page.

[Blurr]

Ima check around the car tonight. I just checked greddy and some of the parts are pricey. will update this after tomorrow... Ima see what hardware I have and dont have....

[Blurr]

Found a boost solenoid and I believe under the panel where the boost gauge is, is the filter and some hose fittings. Im going to trace them tonight, find out where they go.

Confused on the boost solenoid though, how come there are 3 outlets, and only 2 brass fitting outs? Do I need to cap the other one off?

Im wondering if the smoke could potentially be a turbo seal. I see some oil coming out of the tailpipe... Gonna look at it again and take some photos tonight. How hard is it to replace a Turbo oil seal?

[Blurr]

actually took her around the block and got the smoke again tonight. The idle is smooth, and doesnt jump or backfire at all, and I dont smell gas, or any coolant.

Heres what my boost solenoid setup looks like. I was attempting to return the car to stock for now, then decide on a boost controller later. Before I hooked everything back up, everything was capped off. The car was running full boost, and I never got this smoke. But when I hooked everything back up with the boost solenoids, Im getting this smoke. Someone said it could be 1 of 3 things.

The main seal
The Turbo seal on the passenger side
or stuck actuators

Heres the setup for the hoses to the boost solenoid. Is this correct? I also have the stock restrictors in, and they are in tube 2. Tube 2 is also T'd off to the wastegate.





I have everything hooked up as below.



The smoke im gettin smells like rubber. Heres a few pics I took. I reached behind there and felt coolant and oil. Its on the top of the transmission and around the middle of the block.

Heres a few videos of where the smoke is coming from. Click the pix to see em.









I also managed to get the passenger-side EGR bolts back in tonight. I still have one bolt off from my EGR tube on the drivers side.

Btw, the boost issue is still present. It seems like it builds, but wont boost past +3. Once it starts gaining momentum it feels like its being restricted by something.

[BigTDogg (MA)]

I'll take a look at this more indepth tonight but you need to change that fuel filter line ASAP, or that little pass side bit won't be the only thing smoking. Very very serious about that, it's a risk not worth taking for the cost of the tubing.

[Blurr]

Hey folks, some of you have asked how the pull went and what the end result has been since then...

This is what i started with:



So I didnt update everyone on this post from the last time when i had to tear things apart. The smoke issue I had turns out, that i overtightened the bolts on the valve covers I had powedercoated.

Note to anyone doing a plenum pull. BE SURE YOU TORQUE YOUR BOLTS TO SPEC!



After a 3rd rebuild, This is the end result I have had for the last few months. So far no more oil leaks on the driveway, no more coolant burning, and shes runs like a champ. Now just a few more tweaks and fixes, and I should be fine.





Just a quick update and big thanks to BigTDogg, and others here on Nico for all the help!

[BigTDogg (MA)]

Nicely done, was wondering how everything turned out! Are you missing the rubber for your radiator mount?

And yes, definitely always torque EVERYTHING to spec, and more isn't better. Glad you know that now

[Blurr]

Nicely done, was wondering how everything turned out! Are you missing the rubber for your radiator mount?

And yes, definitely always torque EVERYTHING to spec, and more isn't better. Glad you know that now

Most likely, but Im going to get the air guide from CZP.

Currently with the final rebuild, I have no leaks, coolant or oil anywhere. But....

Im having low boost issues. Somewhere along the way I must have mucked something up, vaccum line routed incorrectly or a boost leak somwhere I need to locate. Im working with Greg Dupree and a few others from other forums to see If I can resolve.

Last night I pulled the wastegate hoses off, and capped my TB hoses to see if I could hit 13-14+, and I could, but im bogging and its lagging during launch. Feels like a vaccum leak or something not routed right. I am able to get up there though, so It might be a faulty boost controller. Im also wondering if it could be my outlet couplers or a pinched oring since I replaced all my injectors, Im not smelling fuel though...

Gonna do another check Sunday to see If I can track down what the problem might be. Greg came up with these that might be an issue.

- It should boost more than 14/15.
- That is the common level that starts leaking bad when a hose clamp is not on one of the large boost hoses.
- Does is squeal when under boost?
- I have found on a few cars that customers brought me, that the O-rings at the bottom of the fuel rails fell and got pinched causing significant boost leaks.
- I most commonly find loose and/or missing hose clamps.
- I find hoses crossed.
- The recirc or blow off valves (what ever you have) need to have a boost signal, if they do not get a boost signal, the valve does not close and is a huge boost leak.
- I find cracked hoses from pulling the hose off and reinstalling and they crack.
- I find the small hoses on the balance tube to air regulator do not have the spring clamps slid back on or the hose is cracked.
- I find the idle air hose to turbo outlet pipe is cracked or does not have the spring clamp put back in place.
- I find people mix up the detonation sensor plug with the VTC plug and plug them in wrong causing horrible lag.

However, i did replace all my lines including all vaccum lines with silicon hoses, including all my pcv's.

Will keep everyone posted once I find out what the root cause is. Any suggestions?

[BigTDogg (MA)]

I don't think it's a pinched o-ring. I think you have a boost or vacuum leak.

[chaunceysj]

hey blurr nice work and great lookin Z good luck on hunting down the boost/vacuum leak.. your in san jose cali too?

[Blurr]

hey blurr nice work and great lookin Z good luck on hunting down the boost/vacuum leak.. your in san jose cali too?

Thanks Chaunceysj. yes, I am. South San Jose to be exact.

Cool, nice to know theres another SJ Z owner on the forums. I see DSM importers all over my neighborhood including several AE86's round my block. A few Z owners but none the worthy of posting as they look to be all rusted out.

Heres a recent one I took from my job here at Nasa a few days ago at Moffett Field.

[Blurr]

I don't think it's a pinched o-ring. I think you have a boost or vacuum leak.

Sunday, I looked around the engine bay and noticed a distinct fuel smell coming off the engine. It also has begin to sputter, which I've been told could be an indication that these injectors have seen their day.

So, Considering all the problems I found with the ride when I purchased it, Im pretty sure that the injectors are probably toast as well. Working with Greg from SpecialityZ out here, I plan on getting this kit.

Nismo 740 Injectors, and a Eprom Upgrade to match the Injectors. This will also allow me to delete the SAFC II I believe.



Im going to match Stadsports diagram of the vaccum hoses via below. Before I followed Thumpers method of hooking things up. Just need to make sure everything is routed correctly.

Also these EGAY Intake hoses im going to get rid of, cause I believe they were meant to fit bigger piping for some odd reason, and possibly not sealing like they should.

Will keep everyone posted...

[chaunceysj]

hey blurr nice work and great lookin Z good luck on hunting down the boost/vacuum leak.. your in san jose cali too?

Thanks Chaunceysj. yes, I am. South San Jose to be exact.

Cool, nice to know theres another SJ Z owner on the forums. I see DSM importers all over my neighborhood including several AE86's round my block. A few Z owners but none the worthy of posting as they look to be all rusted out.

Heres a recent one I took from my job here at Nasa a few days ago at Moffett Field.

lol i've see your Z then. my dad works their as well, ive been out there quite a few times, and hell take my car there every now and then as well. small world. and yeah its honestly a shame, there are so many trashed Z's in sj, i dont claim to have a pristine car, but ill see some that make me cringe still beats some of the other stuff i see around here tho...