And Mother Nature took its toll.

[Ron240sx]

So about two weeks back here in the midwest, we were on the verge of a tornado. It was humid during the day and got super cold within an hour. Next thing I know It's hailing, raining like crazy, and to top it off with 90mph winds. Sounds like im not driving to work in this. So i leave the Apt. and go to check on the car. The revine from one hill and the revine from another hill met in a middle low section.( where the car happened to be.) With no exageration my car had almost the tires covered in pure water. It even took the dumpster and drifted it off. So i thought i have to move this car and thus i did. With just one friend and about 40 people just watching i opend my door, rolled the window down got in netural. Then pushed it about a 100 feet through knee deep water as hail still came down. Its nothing to brag about by any means and its made me fall into a personal slumber on not getting to enjoy my car. So what this all came down to was ruining my DE ecu. the diagnosis LED lamps stay green and red without ever changing or blinking. i pull coil pack and spark plug number one and tried starting it. the starter engages and the engine cranks but no spark. From all the water if you can imagine almost over my tires theres still alot more work to be done but my plans remain the same. So with that in mind ive thought things out and have just about everything in mind and some fair money to spend on things. I was hoping you guys could sell me some good things for a fair price. so for the list

1 Pistons- must be done first and foremost

2 manifold and t28 with lines

3- dump and mid pipe

4- 370cc injectors

5- Harness and ecu- Dee we talked about that maybe exchange with some extra cheddar on your end

6- maf prefer ca18det

7- front mount intercooler/ piping

I have a ca18de ecu headed here from canada. Just so i can drive the car to school. Once there im hoping all goes well. and sooner or later ill get to enjoy my ca18de+T

so lets see if you guys can help a comrad out maybe put some extra paper in your pocket

[fabio240]

I have pistons but they have been sitting outside but can be cleaned I can include the rods for a little extra I have the manifold with an sr t25 and a stock sr housing and an extra set of 370cc and an auto ca18det ecu... And yes I can ship these things to you in a reasonable time.. Im just looking to get about 360 plus shipping

[fabio240]

and the turbo is clocked already for the CA so all you have to do is get the intercooler piping and you should be ready to go

[Ron240sx]

so what id need from you would be couple pictures of the pistons. if they look decent ill give you 75 for pistons and injectors. And on the account we dont go through with what happend with that alternator.
really looking into using a t28 instead.
how much for pistons manifold injectors? 100?

[fabio240]

also I can sell you sr oil and coolant lines for an extra 20 on top of that price.. they do have to be bent in order to work... And I do believe I might have an extra maf laying around... Its better to contact me on facebook my name is Fabio Martell I am very negotiable

[fabio240]

yeah I know I was just going thru some things at that point in my life with the alternator just tryna make things right I hate dealing with shady ppl and I feel like I gave you the wrong impression

[fabio240]

I can do 50 for the injectors, 30 for the manifold, 60 for pistons. Or if you would like the rods also 100 for the rods and pistons I believe that the rods between the na ca and the ca18det are different so I would recomend getting those also. I can leave the rods on them

[Ron240sx]

pictures of those pistons. and from what ive read the rods aren't any different. can anyone verify this?
pictures then we'll get to the payment

[fabio240]

Ill get to it when I get off of work

[boost_boy]

pictures of those pistons. and from what ive read the rods aren't any different. can anyone verify this?
pictures then we'll get to the payment

You don't need the rods as yours are the same.

[Ron240sx]

pictures of those pistons. and from what ive read the rods aren't any different. can anyone verify this?
pictures then we'll get to the payment

You don't need the rods as yours are the same.

Thank you. thought so. so can i have your input on DET pistons on 10lbs?
you maybe sitting on any spare stock pistons. id prefer maybe ones that havent been sittin in the elements. But we'll see how there looking.
BTW like we chatted before im still interested in that exchange of our looms and ecu.
and that setup will be for 370cc injectors? Kinda relying on you with this wiring and ecu to go through with this whole project.

[boost_boy]

I'm still around my brother. Time is my enemy and I have a crazy FWD CA project going on for one of our members that is challenging every ounce of knowledge and skill I posess. Just contact me when you're ready to shake, rattle and roll and I should be able to work some magic for you. As for pistons, just buy the ones they sell in Australia that they advertise on ebay. Or you can take your chances with fabio's slugs. As for the 10psi on stock pistons, I run 23psi on 93 octane daily or at least when I drive one of my S13s, so again 10psi is nothing. Actually, you can run 10psi on the high compression pistons, but your ecu will be the limiting factor due to the current factor tune.

[Ron240sx]

so friend i know your busy but if you can give me one last two cents for the time. say i keep the DE pistons and keep boost at 10psi. should i still go for a harness and computer exchange? or what could i do for a nice tune without having to go engine management?

[boost_boy]

You can leave your engine in it's stock form, add the turbocharger stuff and drive it like you stole it. You will need to pull back the timing about 3 degrees if you keep the stock CA18DE engine management system and get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and crank it up to or around 42psi. You will have to run 90+ octane fuel and be wary of detonation. Again, you can run 10 psi, but if something fails, you're going to have to spend some real money. I can't predict mechanical failure, but I do know it can work and you can get away with it as well. I'm going to do it on my daughter's car (DE engine with turbo) and attempt out-smart the computer. Of course hers will run up to 7psi and nothing more because she is only a child and this car will be used sparingly (S13 vert with silvia conversion and CA18DE+(T).

[Ron240sx]

Oh wow she must be something special. such a car for a girl. just gotta make sure the boyfriend isnt driving. ha

so i back the timing run everything as is. are my DE injectors going to be alright?

one more thing the ecu i got from you was code named 65. when i ordered my new ecu i got 64 as it stated it was for the manual trans. will this ecu work right for me?

[boost_boy]

Oh wow she must be something special. such a car for a girl. just gotta make sure the boyfriend isnt driving. ha

so i back the timing run everything as is. are my DE injectors going to be alright?

one more thing the ecu i got from you was code named 65. when i ordered my new ecu i got 64 as it stated it was for the manual trans. will this ecu work right for me?

It doesn't matter which ecu you use because the auto CAs used a seperate computer to operate the transmission. The pistons will be just fine. They are not as soft as people think, but detonation will pound the piss out of the most expensive pistons, so just avoid detonation. But yeah, my daughter is my princes and there won't be any "BOYFRIEND" riding in nothing. As a matter of fact, there won't be any boyfriend period and I'm not even sweating it

[Ron240sx]

So say im looking right at the cam gears. Would I be turning the left intake cam 3 teeth down? and the exhaust cam gear up 3 teeth to degree the timing right for boost?

[Ron240sx]

So i got my manifold t28 intercooler and all the piping getting shipped to my house this week. I'm pretty content on everything except two things. My turbo is water and oil cooled. On the block on cylinder 1 maybe between one and two, there is a bolt fastened and is this bolt block a water or oil supply? And the other thing is what to do about my turbos oil return line to the oil pan? Any suggestions? Basically what did you do in these aspects to anyone thats boosted a DE... input appreciated

thanks

[boost_boy]

On the exhaust side of the block, next to the a/c compressor brack under and between the #1 & #2 pistons is an oil outlet site which should be threaded with 1/8 theads. You're going to have to remove the oil pan and weld a bung for the oil to drain from your turbocharger. As for water outlet, if you look on the ehaust side below the #4 cylinder and just to the left of the CA18DET stamp and serial number, there's an outlet for the water. As for the return line, you'll have to forward one from the turbocharge to a nipple on the water pipe or you may have to add a "T" fitting for convenience. Timing is key in the fact that you will need to retartd the timing a couple of degrees. Anything, just inquire.

[Ron240sx]

right the timing stands at 15* now. and ill need to take it back to 12* correct? Other than those small things I feel pretty confident in all of this. Ironic thing is all my stuff will be here on wednesday and so will my buddys RB25 for his coupe. Should be pretty intersting weekend.. hopefully some pictures and more soon

[Ron240sx]

So i got most of the piping done now and ran into a few problems. On my boost controller i have the "T" along with it and one side goes to the wastegate actuator and the other side i believe has the ball and spring. my turbo doesnt have an outlet on the compressor where should i run this line?
Then next is the exhaust i got the mid pipe to attach to the dump.... come to find it its about a foot short of reaching my catback ....

And the other thing is i had to clock the compressor housing. problem is though my oil feed line hooks up to the bottom as my return line is on top. will this be an issue? or will it still let oil in and out properly

Ive got the whole fitting now its just time for the BOV (waiting on adaptive flange), FPR install, turbo water lines( which i think im gonna circulate it though my water pipe by the firewall exhaust side

And last thing. Can i take a brass fitting with a barbed end to run the return line from the turbo. Using the fitting, o rings, and a brass nut to secure the return line without welding it?

[boost_boy]

Man, you'll have to loosen the bolts on the exhaust housing to adjust the CHRA (center housing). I don't understand why your housing is upside down, but you're going to have to adjust it. As for the lack of pressure outlet on your turbo's front cover, you can also get pressure from the cool-side piping of the intercooler. Or you can always tap a 1/8 nipple with a 1/4 nose to duplicate what nissan does from factory of the T2 small series turbos. The answer to your last question is 'Yes'. I run that same set-up off my GT35R and it's been that way for years and works just fine. Hope the answers help you.

[Ron240sx]

Well turbo wise I'm using a GT28 from emusa. 64 trim on the exhaust side 60 on the compressor. But im not for sure why it was clocked that way, maybe made for a top mount im assuming. Any way it felt like a good choice and selection for my engine. But the better news is i got that accommplished today. The feed now sits properly on top.

I would like to know if the oil pan removal is more reccomended to remove the bolts from the sump? Or should i loosen the nuts on the bottom of my motor mounts and just drop the subframe? Which method would you recommend?

Like always thanks for nico's and your help.

[boost_boy]

If you're simply after the oil pan, you remove the mounts and get the engine to it's highest point or lower the subrame. Either way, you're still going to have to support the motor.

[Ron240sx]

well its all set and done. kinda. I got everything hooked up and it cranks for me just no start.
I need help in a direction to maybe look into why it wont start

[boost_boy]

Are you still using the same set-up you had before with the addition of the turbocharger stuff? If so, then you're going to have to go over the work that you've already done. It's very hard to offer advice in the "no start" areas with vague information and because only you know what you've done. If you've added a different ecu, then I would start there. Again, it's extremely difficult to offer advice with such little info to work with.

[Ron240sx]

Very true, lets break it down better this time.
manifold,turbo, IC, Bov,
I got an adjustable fuel pressure regualtor. I didnt get the fuel pressure set but there was fuel running through the system.
I figured even if i didnt have the pressure set it would still at least sorta start.
I'm still running your whole DE ecu and harness. the afm is still the DE also
stock injectors
everything done was just around the block for the turbo stuff.... I figured it would start maybe not run amazing but at least function. was having a hard time trying to set the fuel pressure. tried jumping the fuel pump fuse yet on the fuel pressure gauge nothing reads.

[boost_boy]

Very true, lets break it down better this time.
manifold,turbo, IC, Bov,
I got an adjustable fuel pressure regualtor. I didnt get the fuel pressure set but there was fuel running through the system.
I figured even if i didnt have the pressure set it would still at least sorta start.
I'm still running your whole DE ecu and harness. the afm is still the DE also
stock injectors
everything done was just around the block for the turbo stuff.... I figured it would start maybe not run amazing but at least function. was having a hard time trying to set the fuel pressure. tried jumping the fuel pump fuse yet on the fuel pressure gauge nothing reads.

Since there is no mentioning of electrical work, I don't see what the problem is. And seeing that you added the turbocharger equipment, should not immediately affect the car's ability to start. The AFM is just fine.

[Ron240sx]

Alright so its running. Cause of the problem was a slighty fuel leak and the rail not getting pressure. So its running now. I'm waiting on my test pipe to connect the rest of my exhaust.

I do need to know where i should tee a vacuum line for my bov and boost gauge?

[Ron240sx]

Alright so everything is almost working properly. The fuel pressure regulator was not at the right pressure. Now it runs builds 7psi ( just for warm ups) of boost at about 3k 4k but doesnt seem to want to go past 5k on rpms. I retarded the ignition timing and it runs and idles nice about 1k. So im confused on why it cant go past 5k it just starts to sputter kind of. Until till five 5k its great asides from this slight coolant leak I need to find.
Any ideas on what i can do about my rpm situation?