And Mother Nature took its toll.

[boost_boy]

Either you have a nasty boost leak or your car is running out of fuel which is dangerous. Your static fuel pressure should be at 39-40psi. Make sure your fuel pump is operating correctly.

[biosehnsucht]

Static fuel pressure at 39-40? It should be 36.3 +- manifold pressure (i.e. if engine not running, set to 36.3), unless I missed something and he's running some really goofy setup ?

[float_6969]

cam timing? IIRC if you get the intake advanced a tooth, it runs fine until the revs get up. Will it go past 5K if you baby the throttle?

[Ron240sx]

The idea of running 39 40 psi of fuel pressure is to keep up with the turbo's boost pressure of my stock ecu and injectors.
Its fixed now and spins past 6k. But i have this coupler that keeps blowing off. it idles fine once it gets raced to 1.5k 2k for a sec. I had orginally tried setting the fuel pressure by the engine at idle. Then read through more carefully on adjusting your fuel pressure reg. Jumping the relay was bomb. So even though i havent got to drive it much yet im thinking of building a badass head for this ca. Plus we got xmas birthday and end of the year bonus'. Need some ideas. From what i understand my DE camshafts are great camshafts. Im thinking wide band, walbro fuel pump, new head but which version to use?, maybe poncams, supertech valves, tomei valve springs. Taking off the intake manifold to remove the butterflies. And maybe just maybe depending my lifes billing but id sure like to score my self an apexi power fc.

Any ideas to winters project?

[biosehnsucht]

Upping the fuel pressure to keep up with boost is a horrible idea. Get that ECU reprogrammed properly. Also, get bigger injectors, if you need them.

[boost_boy]

He can actually get away with it if he doesn't get stupid with the boost and timing. And as long as he has an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, he'll be just fine.

[Ron240sx]

As long as i keep it at a 7 to 10 psi level all should be good. Its gotten out a few times. Took it out built 10psi at 3k rpm and held it tell almost 7k when i released. I'm waiting on the test pipe to get here tomorrow. I'm pry going to drive it around for the time being until we start to get snow around here. Then rebuild it for spring time.
I noticed a couple weeks back my head had some small cracks in the exhaust ports and i maybe looking into buying a new a head.
I've never owned or rode in a ca18det but for anyone else i can vouch its fairly impressive as a ca18de+T

[Ron240sx]

cam timing? IIRC if you get the intake advanced a tooth, it runs fine until the revs get up. Will it go past 5K if you baby the throttle?

So after getting around to it ive got in the car today and i've took it for a spin. But reflecting back to floats comment above. if i baby the throttle and dont go full throttle it'll still build proper boost but if crack the throttle open too much it starts to hesitate after 5k. it made it to 7k while babying the throttle. So what can i infer by this? is my ecu doing this to me or TPS or something that im unaware of?

[Ron240sx]

So after driving for a while now i've seem to run across the notorious lifter tick. I'm not for sure thats what it is but it sure sounds like it. It runs and drives pretty good unless open the throttle too much after 5k rpm. Think im gonna try and take the intake cam gear back a tooth and see how it performs. Asides the lifter, sometimes not always its never constant but i see tons of whiteish grey smoke maybe leaving from the rear when i get on it or after for a while it still smokes some. I can see some faint oil from the head gasket on the head and block. I'm thinking about a rebuild at least for the head. Or maybe a new head? any one got a head in good condition? Could a failed or failing headgasket be the culprit of lots of smoke out of the exhaust?

[float_6969]

Sounds like a failing turbo, or bad rings. Bad rings are more likely. Follow the instructions in the FSM for doing a compression test and tell us what the results are.

[boost_boy]

Hmmm, ticking lifters and whiteish smoke is never a good combination; especially with the high compression thing going on. Melted head, melted piston, cracked ring lands, burned fire ring on the headgasket or maybe even a worthless turbocharger. Like float says, check the compression and let us know the damage.

[Ron240sx]

So who's ready for some compression news. s*** deal it is. number 1 cylinder had 75psi, number 2 had 60, number 3 had 75psi, and ol faithful number 4 had a whopping 120psi. So off comes the head soon. I'm gonna try and get to it today but i imagine the turbo and manifold, piping, and maybe the intake manifold will be off tonight.

Any advice/ suggestions?

[boost_boy]

So who's ready for some compression news. s*** deal it is. number 1 cylinder had 75psi, number 2 had 60, number 3 had 75psi, and ol faithful number 4 had a whopping 120psi. So off comes the head soon. I'm gonna try and get to it today but i imagine the turbo and manifold, piping, and maybe the intake manifold will be off tonight.

Any advice/ suggestions?

Dude, it's time to take that engine out and open it up. Honestly, the pistons are toast. As I stated in my previous post, the ring lands are cracked and possibly licked the fire rings on the headgasket as well. The biggest issue is the ecu in the fact that it's higher timing map creates an unsafe environment for the pistons in the name of detonation. It's hard to avoid the inevitable as it was going to happen. But I hope you enjoyed it while it lasted, but now it's time to face reality in the fact that it needs to be done correctly.

[Ron240sx]

Yeah its not the best deal in the world. But this was just a trial phase to see if this was going to be worth the time and money. Regardless of its condition it still got down for what it is. soon the head will be off be able to see some visual action on those pistons. What makes me curious about the rings and bottom end. For starters if a bearing were spun or a piston melted wouldnt it run like poop? second if the rings were fried wouldnt blue smoke be an evident that oil was getting into the combustion chamber? Because i only had a white/ish smoke from the engine bay at times and from the exhaust also. Cant wait to get this head off and see how she's lookin...
Hey dee you got a head in good condition? or anyone on here?
Last i saw mine had some small cracks in the exhaust ports.

[float_6969]

Sorry to hear about the poor compression. You can run high compression and boost, but not on pump gas. I'm running 10:1 and boost, but i'm on E85 and I have a standalone. I also have forged pistons.

Oil smoke, if hot enough, won't show up as looking blue. Infact, when my CA's rings fried after I first got it, it NEVER had any blue smoke. Just white. But it was a crop duster on decel, LOL.

I've never heard of cracks in the exhaust ports. If that's true, you COULD be spilling coolant into the exhaust.

[Ron240sx]

Well the cracks could possibly be the castings. im not for sure. pictures soon. and ill fill you guys in on the conditions when i get this intake manifold off and the head ill know more...

[Ron240sx]

Would you say if you were going to get the head off, that the intake manifold is easier to get off as one unit from the head? Or would you take the upper intake then the lower serperate? Thats next on the list. Any input on intake manifold and head removal would be awesome? I have the fsm... just curious

[float_6969]

I pull the upper and lower separately. Otherwise follow the FSM, especially the removal order of the cam bolts and head bolts.

[Ron240sx]

So everythings out. The head is in the process of being removed tomorrow asides from that its almost rebuild time. But more than that I need to get my Tuning/ Engine management worked out. I dont have a system yet and I have no set way of where i'd like to go. I need something within a decent price range and effective. But what to get? I've never worked with a EM of any sort... any two cents

[boost_boy]

So everythings out. The head is in the process of being removed tomorrow asides from that its almost rebuild time. But more than that I need to get my Tuning/ Engine management worked out. I dont have a system yet and I have no set way of where i'd like to go. I need something within a decent price range and effective. But what to get? I've never worked with a EM of any sort... any two cents

I can't stress this enough, this is not the area to cheap-out in. Spend the money, save your engine and have some fun. Scan the forum to see what folks are using and go from there. A couple of folks including myself use standalone engine management systems and some folks go with mickey mouse ROM tunes and afc magic boxes for tuning. In some cases they work, but one of those will definitely need the other.

[Ron240sx]

^ I know your a fan of sds, some other guys use greddy emanage, And mobnes ca18 uses haltech if im not mistaken. So say i went with sds. I know you use it and doubt you'd still be using it if it weren't a good system. So I get sds what kind of work am I looking into doing for it to be installed and functioning?

[float_6969]

I run SDS as well (EM4-F). It's a great system. VERY easy to tune. I've tuned AFC'S, emanage, ROM tunes, and Haltech, and the SDS wins as the easiest to setup and tune, hands down.

Most of the installation is just wiring. If you're not good at soldering, start practicing, as it's needed for all good piggyback/standalone installs. There is one hard part. The bracket for the Hall Sensor. If you don't have any fabricating facilities available, this can be a bit difficult. You also need to drill holes in the crank pulley and glue magnets into the holes, but that's actually pretty easy, SUPER easy if you have a drill press available.

If you decide to go the route of SDS, but are worried about the hall sensor bracket, lmk, and I would be willing to build you one. If I can do it before the motor goes back in, it will cost you less as it will be MUCH easier to do with the engine out of the car.

[Ron240sx]

Well Im going to have to be the area for a new crank pulley anyway. mine had some chips off the ends. I dont want the uneven balance to throw my crankshaft off anyway. So i'd be interested if i could get a pulley premade for the system. Soldering isn't a big concern to me. I have everything iron, flux, shrink, and tape, And some misc. 16g and 18g wire. Should be content on the wiring. If you could let me know on that crank pulley whenever, that'd be great. I've still got a bit of work to go yet... as the list pertains...

New bearings for the bottom end.
New rings
maybe pistons depending on there condition
Hot tank and hone
New head gasket
All new gaskets
Butterfly removal
oil pump
When i get my head off today ill soon be able to see if im going to rebuild the head. If so
New guides
Valves
Springs and retainers
Solid lifters
Then after all of that is done I've looked more into sds and I think i have found my choice of system. It seems fairly easy, seems to have won its respect in many different engines, and if all else fails I've got some good help with experience on the system right at my fingers.

So with all that in mind Hopefully when march gets around here Ill be able to see what a real ca18de T will perform like.
Best of luck to everyone else's CA's on here
I need to get my a** out to the garage

[boost_boy]

Yeah its not the best deal in the world. But this was just a trial phase to see if this was going to be worth the time and money. Regardless of its condition it still got down for what it is. soon the head will be off be able to see some visual action on those pistons. What makes me curious about the rings and bottom end. For starters if a bearing were spun or a piston melted wouldnt it run like poop? second if the rings were fried wouldnt blue smoke be an evident that oil was getting into the combustion chamber? Because i only had a white/ish smoke from the engine bay at times and from the exhaust also. Cant wait to get this head off and see how she's lookin...
Hey dee you got a head in good condition? or anyone on here?
Last i saw mine had some small cracks in the exhaust ports.

I have a head already machined and ready to go. Let me know if you still need one.

[Ron240sx]

Well i have pry some of the worst news yet... Cylinder number 3 is cracked. That or it is so horribly worn its made a huge ridge. regardless... I can afford to bore the cylinders, buy new pistons, SDS, and what ever else would come along with that. So i thought getting another engine transmission will go down. Basically get another motor set
But dee I have that CA18DE harness and computer. And the old fried ca18de auto computer if it means anything. Basically I need to get rid of this DE harness/ecu and stock DE exhaust manifold.
Maybe you have an engine with good compression and some other goods we could rap about some exchange. If you dont have an engine assembled up for grabs maybe you'd be interested in buying back The DE harness and ecu. LMK

[float_6969]

I'm REALLY hard pressed to believe there is a cracked cylinder. Where is the ridge?

[boost_boy]

I'm pretty sure he meant the piston in cylinder #3 is cracked and that is due to detonation. Listen man, I think everyone knows I don't discuss $$$s on the CA forums, but I'll entertain you via email. And to be honest, this is not the cheap route and I wouldn't disguise it to earn your business. This is an investment that pays for itself and if you're willing to spend to win, then a standalone of your choice is the way to go. I love SDS and can swear by it, but there are others out there that function just as well. I go with what I know and that is what works for me. No blown engines, no melted pistons, 30+psi on pump gas and a car that breaks traction in 3rd and 4th gears at highways speeds with a/c and p/s, so now that you've hit that cross-road, you'll have to decide if you're ready to spend some real money to satisfy your desires.

I'm a strong advocate of the CA against the SR and KA, but to be so strong-willed, you have to have experienced all 3 in every facet. I've built and tuned all 3 and the CA is my choice for my daily driving, street sweeps and drag racing needs and that's mostly due to tuning and the way I decide to set the engine up. It's all simple, but most of the guys on here are simple boosters. They like to drift, do the stop light to stop light sprinting thing, or change gears slowly to listen to their blow-off valves or just do burn-outs for the cameras (phones). For that, the stock harness and ecu as well as turbo is all they'll ever need. I over-build so if you get that extra itch, everything you need to step-up your game is already available and that I'll put my reputation on. And on my S13 that sits at or around 500+daily whp (depending on what boost setting I select) is done on a .020 over stock bottom end, a re-worked head with JUN cams, a custom manifold, a GT35R snail and of course the SDS EFI system that I stand behind. I say if you love your car, go for it. If it's just a car and your pocket is tight, stay away from this type of upgrade as it is like crack cocaine . I hope this helps with your and anyone else's thought process in deciding to upgrade. It's extremely hard to skate uphill in this game and that phrase is pertaining to engine manangement trickery (ie afc, gcc, vpc, fcd, eproms, fuel pressure risers, etc.), so plan accordingly.

[Ron240sx]

It may not be cracked but im sure there is some ridge running up the side of the cylinder wall on number 3. The ridge is closest to cylinder 4. And its not the piston. actually my pistons were in really good looking condition. Once the pistons are out im almost positive with some parts cleaning solevent they'll polish up looking nice. The 3rd cylinder does concern me. Number 2 is smooth all the way around. number 3 just has the ridge running almost half the cylinders stroke.

So like always this guy boost boy gives me the words of inpsiration. Who couldnt be inspired by 30+ psi on pump gas and breaking traction in 4th gear. Thats nuts. And thats what im talking about. My 240 is all i own that is truely prized. So with that in mind. I dont want just a simple stock boosted CA. plus i like my high compression pistons. I want to build this one right. So with all that in mind what are we looking at parts wise. If i had to bore my cylinders over is there pistons ready available for the over bore? More questions to come. I need to get this block out and on a stand

[float_6969]

If the cylinder really is cracked, you either need a new block, or you're going to have to have that block bored out and sleeved. Either way, you're looking to spend some money. You need to get that block checked about before you do anything else.

[Ron240sx]

Alright so i finally got my engine out. Its on a stand now and i got the pistons and rods out. I found out the reason the number 3 cylinder has a ridge in the side. The wrist pins C clip must have melted or broke or something. It was allowing the wrist pin to scrap the sidewall. None the less Dee was right too. The top of the number 3 cylinder piston was in fine condition. Once removed i could see almost a solid crack all around the skirt. Dissappointing. None the less my crank shaft will come out tomorrow. I got the lower cover off the block and everythings ready to go. Does the timing sprocket on the crank shaft have to be removed using a puller?

Gonna have to bore it on the account my crank shaft measures out properly.
The rod bearings looked similiar yet a little worse than the scratches Float had on his rebuild post. So were gonna pray for the best
Any input is always appreciated.