Am i the only one whos SR hates them?

[burntricer]

Here is the story,

Last year, around this time my sr was running like a bag, super rich, only pulling 10 vac on the gauge and sucking back gas like there was no tomorrow. I fought with it, months and months, and thousands of dollars later i got it working perfect, it was the CAS plug the whole time, i replaced the entire harness to make sure that i had nailed the problem. it was perfect. Fast forward 8 months, it started to run bad again, pulling 16 inhg on the vac gauge, and slowly, over those months, it has gotten worse and worse.

like it still idles dead on 1000 rpm, its only pulling 8 InHg, running between 13.9-15.0 afr, idles like its missing, and when your into boost it doesnt pick up till around 4500, but its in full boost at 2200

heres what ive checked so far

compression (cold) - 138 , 140, 141 , 139 (within spec)code -55fuel pressure - ~42 w/ vacboost leaks/intake leaks - couldnt really find anychanged MAFS'

Now mind you, my timing is advanced right now, significantly,I put the BC 264 cams in and i cranked it over by hand, and then i hit it with the starter, it made a wicked bang, but it ran, with a tick, so i pulled it apart again and the lifter was fine, but the rocker was broken... changed that out, changed all my intake mani gaskets and my Iacv gasket.

If i set the timing dead on with my light, it barley runs, and thats me putting it in timing mode (warm with the TPS unplugged)the mechanical timing is dead on, the Iacv is working, i can control the idle speed with the screw, im not getting any codes whatsoever. my harness is new, so im confident its not electrical, i deleted my SAFC to make sure that its not whats causing the problem

what gets me, is it was running great last year until around august this started to come in, its gotten worse and worse since ive been driving it, now when it idles, it idles at 14ish afr, 850 ish rpm, but it sounds like a drag truck and only has 8 InHg. only when it warms up tho, when it is cold it idles around 1500, and around 13/12 afr...

do you think it could be a leak between the turbo and the exhaust mani? what other things could it be, im really kinda stumped. The last time this happened it was the CAS plug, that fixed it no problem, but ive checked that, and changed CAS's....what about the alternator, ive noticed once and a while the lights seem dimmer then usual and i know its gotten salt and shiv in it alot recently, along with oil from my front main seal leak and coolant from changing throttle bodies....?

Ive verified my alternator is putting out 14+V, ive changed my plugs, they are gapped properly, i verified no vaccuum leaks, and i checked for vacuum leaks, i found one, fixed it, nothing changed. so then i figured, to eiliminate that I would induce one. No change.

Seriously im at a complete loss, this motor just hates me. any thoughts, or maybe point me in the right direction?

Im going to try to get a video tonight or tomorrow...

[jr_ss]

Did you check your MAF? Unplug the MAF and see how it runs. If it doesn't change, then it's not the MAF, if it does, you've got a bad one... I know you've changed it, but have you straight up just unplugged it?

And no, you aren't the only one that the SR hates. Mine kicked the bucket 137,133,110,125 across the board. Oh well, time to swap in the built motor and make some serious power..

Goodluck, post the results.

[burntricer]

i tried that, it seemed to pick up the idle a bit, but it didnt seem to run any better

[s13-t]

I would re torque EVERYTHING!!! on the exhaust side before and after the o2. my sr20's idle got worse and worse amongst other things... anyways I fond out that a there was a gap at nearly every exhaust gasket. everything was leaking- couldnt build boost- $hitty gas millage- $hitty idle anyways try that see if it helps.

[burntricer]

i guess its worth a shot.

[burntricer]

bump...ok, i fixed my exhaust leak at the turbo and still no fix

[burntricer]

found it

my intercooler has a hole in itgetting it welded monday

[jr_ss]

WooHoo! Sounds good. Cross fingers and hope all goes well.

[burntricer]

update, intercooler fixed.

problem not.

now i run a boost leak test and i get air coming out my breather for my catch can, and around my timing cover/cas.....

[burntricer]

no one?i love this.... like im really, really, really, really sick of the way this engine runs.

[Kansei240sx]

Check this guy......



ECT's dont throw codes when they get old and out of range.

Its a thermistor, the warmer the engine gets the lower the resistance value becomes.

76 degrees should be around 2.2 ohms of resistance, and at operating temperature it should be around .3 to .33 ohms of resistance. Check this with the connector unplugged and the car off for 76, and running at 176 or so.

If you cant get it to run that long, take the sensor out of the engine and stick it in a pot of water heated to around 170-180 degrees. If the connector is corroded which, is a very common problem, then you need to replace the connector, pins and wires from about 3 inches back, and replace the sensor if it is out of range.

[burntricer]

thanks for the input, really, any suggestion helps

i changed that sensor this time last year. it tests out fine. its still brand new

theres a couple things that im thinking, im replacing all my vacuum lines, aswell im gunna check my mafs pipe...thoughts?

[jr_ss]

Try pulling the MAF again, now that you have the hole in the IC fixed...

[burntricer]

pulling a mafs code now...changed mafs...no change, no code. i think it was cuz i tried unplugging it. I will get a video tomorrow morning. im ready to blow this car up.

[the converted]

Did the problem get worse when you put the cams in? I had heard that the BC cams could be machined somewhere in the range of 8* from where they should be. You might have to get adjustable cam gears and degree the cams if that is the situation.

[burntricer]

well yes and no. they definatley didnt help thats for certain. I was having idle issues previously...but its not much to swap the cams..maybe ill give it a shot to be on the safe side? its worth a shot..

[the converted]

I'm just wondering if the initial problem was the hole, and then the might have been an issue with the cams that hid in the problem from the hole. It's a thought, and not a bad idea to degree any aftermarket cam you put in. I had a set of buddy clubs in my Integra that I had to advance 4* on one and retard 2* on the other to get them into spec.

[burntricer]

thats definatley a possibility...and would explain alot. im gunna have to look into that, ill swap them over tomorrow.. or the next day and let you know

[redsx13]

burntricer, i am in the same boat....btw, Im in the process of swapping my harness this week (doubt that will fix it though)

I have low boost, low vacuum,and its missing at idle. also, my idle fluctuates from 700-900(does yours do this at all?)

heres what i have done...-cleaned the IACV-replaced the CAS-replaced TPS (bad)-replaced MAF (bad)-replaced injectors (370's)-replaced ecu -replaced coolant temp sensor -replaced spark plugs (ngk iridium)-replaced fuel pump (walbro)-replaced injectors (440's)-checked for boost leaks-Checked codes (only 55 [all good])-checked for vacuum leaks-checked wiring harness (pulled apart, looked good, but did not replace)-checked vacuum hoses (correct hookup locations)-checked timing-checked grounds-checked alternator-checked fuel pressure regulator (40 psi @ idle)-checked timing chain (just top two timing marks, not bottom)-checked power and grounds on ecu plug -checked Greedy Bov (closed all the way)-checked turbo (for runout/ missing teeth)-checked compression (150psi x4)-re-checked ecu (good)-re-checked maf (good)-checked coil packs-checked coil pack harness-checked ignitor-checked to make sure all cylinders are firing (yes)-checked to make sure all cylinders getting fuel (yes)-installed and tuned Apex-i Power FC L-jetro -installed Power FC D-Jetro (no more maf)

so dont feel bad, you arent the only one,

btw I have cams too hmmmm... i wonder.......

[burntricer]

woah...woah...woah...changing cams. tomorrow.

you have msn? we need to discuss

[burntricer]

what ive replaced

TurboIntercoolerAll Vac hosesHarnessCTSCASMAFSpark plugsECUFuel Injector OringsIgnitorTPSChanged IACVAll intake gasketsFuel pressure regulatorFuel pumpChecked for boost leaksChecked for vac leakschecked, checked and rechecked timingchecked coil packschecked CTSchecked tpschecked mafschecked boost gaugechecked fuel pressureMade bigger groundschecked alternator checked manifold for cracksverified all cyl's firing

[redsx13]

unfortunately i do not have msn but we can try to figure this one out on nico for now.

-change out those cams, it should run at 15* btdc, maybe the chain has jumped a tooth

-make a video!

-you said your idle was still at 1000rpms warm? what happens when you try to adjust the IACV screw, to turn the idle down?

-just curious, but try this... you said your car misses at idle right? warm the car up, then turn it off and unplug the 02 sensor. start it up again, it should run rich (around 10.6-11.4) but does it still miss???

[burntricer]

well when its idling, its around 11-10

im gunna change the cams tomorrow when i get home.i wish i could make a vid. but my cam got stolen.

i wonder if the cams are actually the problem, cuz now that i think about it, when i tdc the motor. i can see that the lobes on the 1st cyl arent pointing 100% straight opposite of eachother, but not significantly...

but yeah man, i agree, lets get this figured out so nico will have some troubleshooting info.

[redsx13]

well when its idling, its around 11-10

AFR right. do you have a wideband?

Im serious, check the o2 thing i mentoned above^^^. tell me if it still mises at idle with the o2 unplugged. (make sure you turn the off, unplug it, then restart it.)

do it!

[burntricer]

ill do it tomorrow morning...on the way to work....why tho...

if it does it, are you leaning more toward a physical issue? or are we lookin at something electrical still?

do me a favor, boost leak test tomorrow, but dont block off the iacv pipe, and tell me if air is coming out the valve cover T when you test it.

Im wondering if when i broke the rocker arm, if i did some serious damage and am getting a good amount of blowby right now. but ill find out after work tomorrow

[redsx13]

ill do it tomorrow morning...on the way to work....why tho...

if it does it, are you leaning more toward a physical issue? or are we lookin at something electrical still?

do me a favor, boost leak test tomorrow, but dont block off the iacv pipe, and tell me if air is coming out the valve cover T when you test it.

Im wondering if when i broke the rocker arm, if i did some serious damage and am getting a good amount of blowby right now. but ill find out after work tomorrow

Air is leaking out of that "T" in the valve cover when i run a boost leak test, quite a bit actually. sounds like yours is too? we need to figure out if this is normal or not.

btw, with the o2 test, I'm leaning more towards something electrical, since the problem is somewhat inconsistent.
Modified by redsx13 at 10:43 PM 2/24/2009

[burntricer]

yeah i agree it does have a bit of an inconsistencey.

ill let you know about the o2 sensor. i know i had unhooked it before,and it did nothng.. but ill try again. the weird thing is im getting code 55

[redsx13]

yeah i agree it does have a bit of an inconsistencey.

ill let you know about the o2 sensor. i know i had unhooked it before,and it did nothng.. but ill try again. the weird thing is im getting code 55

Code 55 doesn't mean s***, honestly. I had both a bad TPS and MAF on top of te problem i still have and my ecu still threw 55. (it was baaaddd, the rpms where all over the place, black smoke billowing from the exhaust, it wouldn't even drive)

[burntricer]

k man, ill let you know what i see tomorrow,

and what happens if it still misses if the 02 is unhooked?

[the converted]

Been doing some reading on the BC264 and it seems that they need to be advanced 11*-16* on just about every engine. So find someone that has a degree wheel and double check your cam timing.