Anybody mention Jerry Tucker for a 'west coast T3'??
He is in So Cal- San Diego. By reputation an exceptional Q mechanic
All Import Service4855 Ruffner Street, Suite-C San Diego CA 92111-1531
I've been folowing the post, but won't venture a comment...too depressing!
Ard
92Q Overheated!
-
Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
Jwt ecu only affects WOT or after ecu senses at least 80% [3.75 volts from TPS].
No summer safety is a part of the idle and cruise program; part of the basic advance program.Removing this safety is the last thing any sane designer would do!
Summer safety [minute progressive retards] is designed to match the temperature sensitivity of conventional gasoline to knock, to avoid the knock sensor activating EVEN MORE RETARD!
What you want to do is lower the coolant temperature to reduce fuel knock sensitivity, yet keep it above 176F.By reducing AF% in summer and using new properly installed radiators.
Also make sure the ecu coolant temp sensor is not coated with insulating breakdown products of aluminum and AF components so it reacts to temperature rises as fast as new.
No one would expect maximum performance on 90F day anyway as power would already be down 2-3-4% from lower air density.Plus summer anti-ozone blends.
No summer safety is a part of the idle and cruise program; part of the basic advance program.Removing this safety is the last thing any sane designer would do!
Summer safety [minute progressive retards] is designed to match the temperature sensitivity of conventional gasoline to knock, to avoid the knock sensor activating EVEN MORE RETARD!
What you want to do is lower the coolant temperature to reduce fuel knock sensitivity, yet keep it above 176F.By reducing AF% in summer and using new properly installed radiators.
Also make sure the ecu coolant temp sensor is not coated with insulating breakdown products of aluminum and AF components so it reacts to temperature rises as fast as new.
No one would expect maximum performance on 90F day anyway as power would already be down 2-3-4% from lower air density.Plus summer anti-ozone blends.
-
elwesso
- Posts: 30810
- Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2003 4:52 pm
- Car: 94 Infiniti Q45t 5 spd
2007 BMW M Coupe
2007 Infiniti G35 S 6MT - Location: Indiana
- Contact:
AZ!! ME ME ME!!!!!
The cooant temp sensor (there are 2 on mine, you pick) is on the Tstat hosing, theres a 2 connector one and a one conector. The 2 is the ECU one, the 1 is the gauge
There is another one in the Y shaped thing under the plenum, right in the middle. IF you go to my plenum writeup, in many of the pictures you see it.....
The cooant temp sensor (there are 2 on mine, you pick) is on the Tstat hosing, theres a 2 connector one and a one conector. The 2 is the ECU one, the 1 is the gauge
There is another one in the Y shaped thing under the plenum, right in the middle. IF you go to my plenum writeup, in many of the pictures you see it.....
-
maxnix
- Posts: 22627
- Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2002 8:11 pm
- Car: 1995 Infiniti Q45
1995 Infiniti Q45t
2000 Infiniti Q45
From where the lead came, the master. Unknown if they still have the blueprints for Dennis' one off. I would judge it a worthwhile investment for AZ or TX summers.__________________Brian1995 Q45 & Q45t & 2000 Q45Q45tech wrote:My Q has had a Griffin custom rad for the last 115,000 miles, all aluminum no plastic.......holds an extra quart.
Discover the power of the button!
-
Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
T3 had a custom one made back in 1998, they needed to send a old Q rad for fine shape tuning........mine went back twice because they had a hard time understanding that there was a plastic cover immediately atop the rad so the rad filler neck and added overflow cap stuck up too much to clear. Finally just cut a big square section ur of the plastic that way, I could check without removing plastic cover.
We tried to do an accurate AB against a new oem rad but time consumming to change back and forth burp the system etc.
My best guess is that the stablized idle is 4-6F less and the on road at speed is at least 5F less in 100F ambient.
The thermostat starts to open at 170F, tries to maintain 176F, and is fully open at 195F........obviously heat transfer into coolant is fast but thermostat reacts slower so you get overshoots [spikes] in temp...........180F [as seen buy ecu is great].
What one needs to do is get engine hot on highway and data log temp [with Consult 1F accuracy] vs time say every 15 seconds after you pull off.
See how many minutes of idling in gear with AC on before the temp rises to 195F then 200 then 205, then 210F.........220F.
Might as well data log [cheap[ radioshack outside digital therometer] the rise in AC center vent temp at the same time useful later.
We tried to do an accurate AB against a new oem rad but time consumming to change back and forth burp the system etc.
My best guess is that the stablized idle is 4-6F less and the on road at speed is at least 5F less in 100F ambient.
The thermostat starts to open at 170F, tries to maintain 176F, and is fully open at 195F........obviously heat transfer into coolant is fast but thermostat reacts slower so you get overshoots [spikes] in temp...........180F [as seen buy ecu is great].
What one needs to do is get engine hot on highway and data log temp [with Consult 1F accuracy] vs time say every 15 seconds after you pull off.
See how many minutes of idling in gear with AC on before the temp rises to 195F then 200 then 205, then 210F.........220F.
Might as well data log [cheap[ radioshack outside digital therometer] the rise in AC center vent temp at the same time useful later.
-
Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
The better rad and JWT ecu and the essentially stock air box and intake horn are the keys to good summer performance.........least amount of power loss.
Still have the AC on and relying on the ecu compressor cut out and the high temp reading from ambient air temp sensor degrades hot performance more than one would expect from a 30-40F hotter ambient [3-4%].
50-80 mph hot summer accelerations goes up from 5.3 secs to 6.0- 6.2 secs.................turning off the AC so the ecu has time to reset to normal mode prior to testing cuts the increased time almost in half..........roughly what one would expect from density changes.
Really hard to compare injector time/advance between the two cases but changes are real.
The whole matter hinges on having the most ignition advance that does overly trigger the knock sensor curcuits and keeping the injector open time out of the super rich category [richer >11.5 AF].
Still have the AC on and relying on the ecu compressor cut out and the high temp reading from ambient air temp sensor degrades hot performance more than one would expect from a 30-40F hotter ambient [3-4%].
50-80 mph hot summer accelerations goes up from 5.3 secs to 6.0- 6.2 secs.................turning off the AC so the ecu has time to reset to normal mode prior to testing cuts the increased time almost in half..........roughly what one would expect from density changes.
Really hard to compare injector time/advance between the two cases but changes are real.
The whole matter hinges on having the most ignition advance that does overly trigger the knock sensor curcuits and keeping the injector open time out of the super rich category [richer >11.5 AF].
-
Q45tech
- Moderator
- Posts: 14296
- Joined: Tue Apr 30, 2002 3:19 am
- Car: 1990 Q45 342,400 miles 22 years ownership with original engine
1995 G20t 5 speed 334,000 miles 16" 2002 wheels - 205/50/16 Sr20ve vvl
The displaced volume [of the slim tube] is around 8 ounces a whopping 2.5% not even close to my 10% which is still woefully inadequate if you increase power by 10%.
Plastic end tanks are asking for a leak, but as you said the oem lasted a while. I had mine 5.5 years but I should be able to use it in other cars for the next 20 years at least..........then I can use it/sell it as a liquor still condenser or add it to my casket to keep cool.
Try to show you the way and people moan about prices.
Actually a brand new oem [with brand new foam surround] does a very good job at speed just not around town in traffic.
The Q will eventually go into thermal runaway if idled in gear long enough AC on high.
Plastic end tanks are asking for a leak, but as you said the oem lasted a while. I had mine 5.5 years but I should be able to use it in other cars for the next 20 years at least..........then I can use it/sell it as a liquor still condenser or add it to my casket to keep cool.
Try to show you the way and people moan about prices.
Actually a brand new oem [with brand new foam surround] does a very good job at speed just not around town in traffic.
The Q will eventually go into thermal runaway if idled in gear long enough AC on high.
OK, getting closer to a decsion...
I've sent an oil sample off for anaylsis to Blackstone Labs, still awaiting results. In the mean time I've spoken with a mechanic who I respect who's advised me against a head gasket. Given the legwork involved in getting a rebuilt motor into my car, I don't think I'm up for it. So, I'm wondering what to do with my car - is anyone out there interested? - As a parts car perhaps?
I've sent an oil sample off for anaylsis to Blackstone Labs, still awaiting results. In the mean time I've spoken with a mechanic who I respect who's advised me against a head gasket. Given the legwork involved in getting a rebuilt motor into my car, I don't think I'm up for it. So, I'm wondering what to do with my car - is anyone out there interested? - As a parts car perhaps?
What year/model Q45, options, condition of everything, etc?tkd_q45 wrote:OK, getting closer to a decsion...
I've sent an oil sample off for anaylsis to Blackstone Labs, still awaiting results. In the mean time I've spoken with a mechanic who I respect who's advised me against a head gasket. Given the legwork involved in getting a rebuilt motor into my car, I don't think I'm up for it. So, I'm wondering what to do with my car - is anyone out there interested? - As a parts car perhaps?
Corey