Day 13: Beautiful Northern California
Day 13 started off with a bang, in the form of my aunt backing over the front of my car with her big pickup-truck before sunrise.
It doesnt look to bad but the fender was mangled in such a way that I'll have to grab a replacement from the junkyard. The hood and left headlight escaped with mostly just paint damage. Luckily everything still opens and closes and functions perfectly normal. All in all, I went into the trip prepared for the chance of severe damage or even totalling my car (you hit a moose or an elk on the freeway and you're taking the airplane back). So this didn't bother me much, its all cosmetic and easily fixable. I'm probably just going to get the whole front end of the car repainted and get all the tiny chips in my window smoothed out (damn gravel roads).
Anyways, I probably spent less time looking at it in the morning that I did just writing the above desription, I knew I had some really cool stuff ahead of me so I turned down the street from my aunt and uncles place and got back on 199. The road really starts getting great near the coast but still in the national park.
My main objective for this morning is a short 4.3 mile hike into the woods, and it is an absolutly beautiful morning to be hiking. The temperature is low enough for me to bring along a fleece pull-over so I find a place to park by the road and set out. There are TONS of maintained trails around the area, which is nice because the severe grade of the hills makes it hard to freestyle hike off in a random direction. I haven't been out here for 16 years so I was really pumped to be back out on the trail in the redwoods. You know you are in for a treat when you can hike through a tree trunk and not have to bend over at all.
These trees are definitely my favorite single piece of nature in the whole world. They are some of the most ancient living things on earth and they are really, REALLY big. Where's waldo?
A single tree can live 2500, even 3500
years. A lot of the trees are so old here they have burn marks from forest fires that occurred before this country was even founded. Among their endlessly fascinating characteristics is the ability to grow out of fallen trunks and branches without pollination. This fallen trunk spanned a little ravine about 60 feet across and had several already large trees growing out of it. With 4 or 5 feet of ground clearance you could walk right under a tree whose roots had never touched solid ground in however many years it has been growing.
I came across a gnarled old tree a little bit off the path that was really impressive to look at and climb around the base. With the tighter confines it was hard to even get the entire width of the base in the frame.
So on I continued in near complete silence and solitude, feeling rather insignificant and in awe. If any of this looks familiar, they did film a large portion of Starwars in the area (you know, they anti-grav bike chase scene and all that good stuff) Towards the back side of the trail I finally came across some other people and we chatted for a bit about the awesomeness of the forest here. After they were maybe 89-90 yards away I tried to snap yet another comparison picture, otherwise you have no sense of scale.
The very back side of the trail ends on the banks of the smith river (same one in the porch picture) and branches into a few more trails on both sides of the river. With tons of space I can finally frame a whole tree in one picture, although from this far you cant see much of the detail.
The river is just spectacular, its super clear and clean enough to drink strait out of (although bears, and other wildlife, do in fact s*** in the woods, so it doesnt mean you are drinking fiji bottled). The main reason this is possible is that the river lies almost exclusively in park area and is completely dam-free, actually the last undammed major river in California.
I wish I could spend a month just exploring here, but time presses on so I hike back out to hit the road once more.
199 ends just off the coast and my first view of a pacific is grey and overcast. Even though it was pleasant out the pictures all turned out suicide worthy. I get onto 101 heading south and the road jumps back off the coast and up into the fog shrouded forest. Because the weather is so localized and changes very frequently, fog doesn't mean it cant be sunny out at the same time. This weird mix of weather made drive through this part of the giant Redwoods down right mystical.
101 was super fun driving down during the week because traffic wasnt to bad and retired bazillionaires were out in force with cool cars. Lots of ferraries and 2 Alfa Romeo 8C Competizione's, which really blew my mind considering there are only 90 in the entire country. When the opportunity arose, I took a scenic route through yet another Redwood park and finally found a tree next to the road where I could actually park that was fairly big.
I swear off anymore park detours because it was getting on in the day and I needed to get down 101. The road fluctuates from 4-lane limited-access down to the 2-lane-barely-squeeze-through-the-trees size. When this happens they put reflective warning posts in front of the trunks, in case someone might accidentally test their crumple zones on the side of one of the giants. Word is the tree always wins.
I make it down to Ukiah by the evening to meet up with more relatives. Ukiah is definitely what you would call a hippy town, and I'm sure some of you know what goes on in Mendocino county. As a consolation prize for getting my car run into by one aunt I get to follow another up a dirt road I can only describe as like driving on logs and choking on dust. I make it about halfway before I give up and park my car on a little side area. I hop into her prius (It seems like 20% of california drives this car) and we bounce and crash the rest of the way up.
