400whp RB20 Build

[MATTs14]

DriftingisLame, arent you running a holset hx35 as well?? Or maybe im mistaken. But if so are you running stock pistons?? And ive been told that carl h can get a rock solid tune down on the 750 deatschwerks and im confident in his work

[Cjmartz2k]

Yep, he's running a HX35. I'm also running stock pistons on my HX40

[MATTs14]

That definitely gives me hope then. Ive read your stories on here lol. Can you guys think of anything else im over looking??? I talked to carl and im getting my buddies ecu shipped out and mine soon after. What should i have to monitor the car. I have fuel pressure gauge, innovate lc-1 wideband with gauge. Should i get an egt gauge?? I really dont wanna cut into my 6boost mani but will if i have to.

And thanks again to everybody who has replied in this thread. YOu guys have helped more than you know and im glad you guys see me more than some kid asking a million questions and never doing anything with his car.

Also i started lookin at suspension mods. Im not too crazy on the idea of coilovers right now and my wallet isnt either so what should i run for a daily driver. Ive got an eibach prokit right now. Im looking at getting the spl solid subframe spacer, solid diff mount, some sort of diff if not a welded open one or a vlsd, traction rods, and whatever else you guys can think of.

[DriftingisLame]

Matt I have an AEM wideband, greddy boost, egt, coolant temp, and oil temp. I think for street tuning my boost, egt, and wideband are totally necessary. I would have melted more pistons on my last setup if I hadnt seen my EGT gauge climb so fast. My AFR's were right but my timing was too retarded and the EGT shot up. Get those gauges man, they are important.

[MATTs14]

Ok thanks that helps a lot. I found a greddy egt for under 100 so im gonna grab that. I heard you place it on the 1st runner of the exhaust manifold. Is this correct??

[Coolwhip]

the 6th cylinder tends to run the leanest. I would say monitor that cylinder's exhaust runner.

[MATTs14]

Ok sounds good.

Ok is there anything else that im missing???

Stupid question, i cant even believe im asking this but since im using a wideband, will i need to retain the o2 sensor?
Modified by MATTs14 at 1:20 PM 1/11/2009

[Carl H]

unless the aem offers a narrowband output you'll have to run both the wideband and stock narrowband as the ecu likes to throw fits with anything other than the stock setup without it.

[MATTs14]

Ok thats what i figured and im running the innovate lc-1.

SO what psi should i run with the hx35 to make 400whp?? I was thinking around 18. Correct me if im wrong. Thanks

[Cjmartz2k]

That's tough to guess, but on a RB20, that might be about right'ish. You've got the smaller 8 blade HX35, right?

+1 what Driftingislame said. Ex temp and boost are the only two aftermarket guages I run, and I think they are the most necesary (at least for dragging). Also, the best place to put the egt probe is the ex housing on the turbo from what I've learned. It's where I've got mine.O yeah, and I'd run a wideband too if I could, I just spent my money on tequilla and hookers instead

[Carl H]

18-22psi depending on other mods...i know on my 30r 18psi put me close to 400 but on a friends car 18 only got him to around 330 using a t3/t4 57trim.im not terribly familar with the holset turbo's flowrates but if its comprable to a 35r like everyone says it is then most likely on the lower end of the spectrum.

[MATTs14]

Yeah im running the innovate lc-1 wideband with the db gauge. Ive got a gizzmo ms-ibc boost controller so i can do boost with that and i ordered a greddy egt gauge today. I really really really want 400 at the wheels so i guess i will run 20psi for that and probably daily with the 18. Can i just adjust my boost accordingly with the tune i will be getting carl h?? Like i wanna daily on 15 and 20 at the track can i do that??

[Cjmartz2k]

18-22psi depending on other mods...i know on my 30r 18psi put me close to 400 but on a friends car 18 only got him to around 330 using a t3/t4 57trim.im not terribly familar with the holset turbo's flowrates but if its comprable to a 35r like everyone says it is then most likely on the lower end of the spectrum.

The 6/7 blade HX40 is a bit bigger than the big GT35r, the 7 blade HX35 is a touch smaller, and the 8 blade HX35 is around a GT30r. That's all approximations based on what the DSM guys put down on dyno's though. He's got the smallest of those BTW.

I'm about mid to high 500's at the wheels with my 6 blade HX40 right now. No dyno though, so it's tough to tell. I run with S13 T88's and T51R'd aristo's though

Matts--if your asking can you change the boost setting with out having to retune or something like that, yes you can. Tune for max boost and you can always turn it down. Trust me though, you won't. I've been trying that "1.5bar for the street, 1.8 bar for the track" thing for a while now. Funny how my boost controller never changes settings

[MATTs14]

Ok well ive got a question now. Is it possible to change the wheel and compressor housing to make a 7 blade?? I know i can still make the 400whp. Is that a correct assumption or should i shoot for something bigger or the 7 blade conversion(if its possible which i believe it is).

So cjmartz2k, what psi should i set for my max psi if i want mid 4's, i know thats being greedy but im getting the deatschwerks 750's so ive got plenty of room to grow. I would say 22 psi but thats just me. Like you said i can always turn it down lol. I think 18 would get me to 400whp and 22 would get me to mid 4's no sweat. These turbos shouldnt ever run out of room for what i want. I mean dont they push well over 30 on the dodge's they come off of???

[DriftingisLame]

Most HX35's are set to 19-22psi wastegate pressure.

Dude, just put the car on the dyno, run 1 bar, then raise the boost accordingly untill you've safely hit your goal. Its going to be pretty difficult for any of us to guess what boost you'll need to run to hit what HP level. You and I are probably the only ones to have this turbo/manifold combo on this particular motor anyway, so we'll just have to find out.

[MATTs14]

Well i would love to do that but ive been told to tune for my maximum boost level so im trying to over do it per say so i wont have to be shipping out the ecu a bunch ya know lol. If this doesnt hold true then i will do as you said and gradually turn it up until i reach my goal. I was looking and im thinking about doing the same setup as you as far as intercooler piping goes. Would there be any need in running a better blow off valve?? I might just try to use the stocker on there somewhere, if not im gonna run the sard r2d2

[rbsileighty]

Quote »no comments about the wing...its factory oem nissan aero believe it or not; fully adjustable and you dont want to know how much it cost.[/quote] ...if you hadn't said that Carl... ha, good placement on the disclaimer!

I'm kind of older but I hate BOV's that are open vented... drives me nuts on the highway/daily driving, but that's my opinion and if you like it you like it....

For the rest of the post... interesting. I haven't been on the board for a while, but nice to see you're sticking with it!

For the gauges I'd add a fuel pressure gauge to the mix... I run oil press, fuel press and boost... I also have a remote gauge for my LC-1 when tuning/on track (use an old O2 to plug the hole when it's not in use). Until I run a Camp/display type gauge setup (hopefully...) I'm just running the 3 gauges for daily use...

Suspension... your budget would help. I have Kei Office XT coilovers, fresh rubber bushings (would like to go Nismo hardened rubber one day), and stock Hicas swaybars... ha, um... and a cage ...but even before the cage it was a great handling/riding car. Only replace the arms you need to in order to adj your handing to your taste... otherwise it's wasted cash!!! Start with the core (true coilovers or strut/spring) and go from there...

That leads me into some of your other questions. I'm not sure where you're physically at with your build but I'd recommend getting it running with the motor in the car in stockish form to sort out any issues you might have with the motor. The internals etc can be done up front but I'd keep stock turbo, ecu etc to get it running otherwise you might be chasing gremlins forever (seen others do this)... will save a lot of money too. If it were a new motor in a car that it came from that would be a different story, but that's not the case with RB's in S chassis...

I'd also throw cleaning the bores and new rings to the mix if you're opening the block... not very expensive since you already have it open...

Just my opinion... good luck non the less!!!

Oh... and I'd recommend these for Struts:http://www.modacar.com/product....html

That with the Eibachs is next best thing to coilovers in my opinion... decent ride with that combo in the 88 CRX I drove a few years ago too... we run Koni's in our SCCA T2 Z33 with custom valving and I really like their products. I'd recommend KW for coilovers but they only make V3's for the S-chassis and they're kinda pricey

Oh... and don't go with solid bushings if you plan on this car being a DD... collars with fresh bushings would probably be all you'd want/need
Modified by rbsileighty at 4:37 PM 1/20/2009

[yotik]

nice, i cant believe i just found this thread. will be keeping an eye on this...

[DriftingisLame]

This thread's over a year old and I believe he ditched the rb20 to get an rb25. Matt posted on here everyday when he was excited about his rb20 then dissappeared. Dont think the build will be finished.

[boosted98gst]

Thats why I have a nice scatter shield reving 10k rpm on my evo! that can get ugly!!

[Chaos the Xile]

I do believe with the poncams your gonna have to convert to solid lifters.Procams you do not.

Nice list but don't buy too much off ebay.

YOU DO NEED SOLID LIFTERS FOR PROCAMS! Pon not so much. Now there are different variations of Poncams that are not lash type so you need solid lifters

[Yellow4g63]

When I bought my Procams back in 05 you had a choice with solid or hydro.

[putang29]

should go for rb26 cams instead of rb20's from tomei, and upgrade the throttle body and maf as well.

[Yellow4g63]

should go for rb26 cams instead of rb20's from tomei, and upgrade the throttle body and maf as well.

Why would use RB26 cams vs Tomei cams?

[supersayianjim]

picks of said progress??

[240z4u]

picks of said progress??

Since I bought his 6boost manifold I imagine he is finished with the project.

[BigJuiceSr20]

L

Does America use Links over there?? Like the new G4 fricken populer in NZ or ems

LINK G4 is da bomb... VIPEC's are rebadged LINK units.