280zx drifting question

Post by **nismo 03** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 8:17 am

ok to answere a few of your many questions

added turbo did not switch the harness (did not know i needed to i added the msd boost retard si)

the distributor is what i think is holding me back and no i did not add the turbo one.

i have no idea on the wire order that may be another problem.

i had the j pipe but did not use it because i latter did the carb set up.

over all am just going to have to pay some one to take a complet look at the car get rid of the turbo and up grade to a 3 carb set up... or sell the parts i do have for the l28e and go with the rb26dett or any other engine that will fit in and get it over with he he

but dont know yet i just want to get that car on the street running again

Post by **evildky** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 10:29 am

the stock turbo electronic's do not require the MSD BTM as it's already set up fro the turbo, running N/A electronic's is a dangerous gamble, do you have the fsm? did you align the oilpump driveshaft and install it as described?

Post by **nismo 03** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 10:39 am

hell no and i have no idea of what u just said i just followed the book my friend had and like i said that was a long time ago so i have no idea what that is

Post by **nismo 03** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 11:04 am

evildky wrote:the stock turbo electronic's do not require the MSD BTM as it's already set up fro the turbo, running N/A electronic's is a dangerous gamble, do you have the fsm? did you align the oilpump driveshaft and install it as described?

o $h!t sorry about that i didnt get the question i was eating lol

ok the harness was not one of a l28et it was a stock l28e with stock l28e wiring thats why i had to get the msd BRS.

the fuel Management system was in put into place after we found out it was just about the same thing except for a few sensors

and for the last time yes the oilpump was put in the right way

Post by **evildky** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 11:20 am

the MSD 6BTM is the msd box with built in boost retard, and once the oil pump was in did the little half moon on the shaft sit in the same position as the book? might have been the haynes taht has the picture of the shaft

I have personally put the sistributor in wrong as it's kinda tricky while in the car and real easy to cause the shaft to turn a hair, one tooth is enough to make it run like crap

Post by **nismo 03** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 2:59 pm

yeah i guess that would do it

ok one question a friend of mine is telling me i can drop a chevy 350 small block into the car and being that i do have a thing for building a muscle car i feel i can hit 3 birds with 1 stone.

i have a thing for drifting, muscle cars and zx so my idea was to restore the care drop a 350 upgrade suspension, breaks add roll cage and do a few other things now the only thing setting me back is the 1 money (not the biggest of problems am looking at this as a long term project car) 2 the lack of knowledge that it would take to pull this off.

if u guys can help me find out exactly what i need before i start that would be great. also i have looked everywhere and can not find anything except for some one telling me that their is a kit but i have not found it

Post by **evildky** » Thu Jan 18, 2007 6:13 pm

JTR (Jags That Run) sells a book called something like how to put a SBC into your Datsun Z car, it's centered around the S30 chassis, but the S130 isn't too dissimilar, they also sell the basic parts for the conversion, basically you need some setback plates for the motor, a rear sump oilpan and pickup, block hugger headers, fab up some brackets for a GM radiator, make a trans crossmember out of bar stock, and have a driveshaft made, it's not hard it's been done a million times, the SEZ shootout is full of V8 s30 and s130's, the next event is coming up soon, see sticky at top of the page

oh and on the s30 chassis you add half inch spacers between the crossmsmber and the frame rails to allow for a bit of extra hood clearance, hybridz.org is a site that was started and centers around the sbc conversion, the ford and mopar swaps are a bit more difficult, I was gonna do the sbc, then I was gonna do the sbf then I decided to turbo and thats where I am today

Post by **nismo 03** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 6:55 am

thanks that really helps. i just hope i can get it up and running in no more then 2 1/2 years. house payments car payments and gas makes completing a dream really hard lol

just a few more questions???

1) what would be better a)buy the engine from a junk yard and get a complete rebuild (just block i want edelbrock parts) b)or get a long block crate engine

2)can i keep the same engine or do i have to get a new one???

3)how much do you thing this will run me???

Post by **evildky** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 9:27 pm

lots of options, summit's cheapest crate 350 is about $1500 for just the basic low compression bare longblock rated at 260chp, and junkyard or swap meet motor well that vary's greatly, a core motor coud be had for $50 at some locales and at others it could be $300! and to rebuild a V8 longblock (standard overbore, new rod and main bearings, new hypereutectic pistons, surface block, surface the heads, 3 angle valve job, new seals and gasket set) you'd be at about $1400 (at least this is what the place I go charges) so it's abotu the same either way, manifold car, headers distributor etc plan on at least another $500, or maybe you find a wrecked camaro for $500 and swap the entire stock drivetrain, or maybe just buy a complete running motor srom a junkyard, they ofter will sell complete motrors with 30 day warranty

and if you're real adventurus, you can get a used LS1 for about $3000, and they putout 330-360 chp stock, and it's injected so no carbs and it's a gen 3 block so no distributor

a donor car is usually the cheapest route, if you can find one wrecked or rusted in half and the seler just really needs it gone

Post by **nismo 03** » Mon Jan 22, 2007 5:44 am

ok ok i got it yet another question what about the tranny will the 280's tranny mount on or is it better to buy a new tranny that bolt on the the 350???

if i do go with the 350 tranny set up will the they match or will i have to cut a hole in the car????

also i found a 350 rebuilt block at auto zone for $800 do you know if these engines are any good

Post by **evildky** » Mon Jan 22, 2007 8:42 am

no the datsun trans won't bolt to the sbc, you'll likely want a camaro T-5 trans, be sure to get the bellhousing clutchfork, slave cvlinder, throwout bearing and yoke with it, and yes it fits in the car you just have to fab a simple cormmember pretty simple 3/16 x 2 barstock should do the trick

as for the autozone and similar "remanufactured" units they take shortcuts on the rebuilds, if one sylnder is ok they leave the bore and reuse the piston, if the next one is gauged up they overbore that cylinder and and install a larger piston, I would recomend a donor car, it's much cheaper and easier when you can take all the aprts off one car

Post by **nismo 03** » Mon Jan 22, 2007 10:53 am

so what would be a perfect donor for this set up??

is their more than i car i should keep an eye on ???

Post by **evildky** » Mon Jan 22, 2007 6:50 pm

if it were me, I'd look for a 5.7 tuned port T/A or camaro with a 5 speed, or maybe a C4 with the 4 speed, but I'd keep the injection, the beauty for you is that if you get one of those you can sell the tuned port injection setup for about $350 to help pay for an intake and carb

Post by **nismo 03** » Tue Jan 23, 2007 6:03 am

not a bad idea!!!

last night i talked to one ot my friends and he said he had a weber 3 carb set up for a 280 that he would let me have for $100 (yes they work)

am going to go for it and keep the v8 as a project for the future that way i can take my time to find a good donor car, save some money and collect more info.. on the build ahead. Camaro are not to hard to come around in LA the impounds always have them for about $300-$700 in running conditions so i will keep my ear to the street.

thanks for the help

Post by **evildky** » Tue Jan 23, 2007 9:23 am

got those carbs before he coms to his sences!, thos things sell for $600-800 depending on condition and size! and tuned they are like a bolt on 30whp! I've seen it on the dyno myself, what block and cylinder head are in you're car?

Post by **nismo 03** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 9:36 am

stock l28 e

Post by **evildky** » Wed Jan 24, 2007 1:37 pm

stock L28E came in a few versions, the block is either an N42 casting with dished pistons or and F54 with flat tops, and the cylinder head is either a high compressions N42 head, or a high compression N47 with sleaved exhaust runners, or a low compression P79 with sleaved exhaust runners, by mating the F54 flat top bottom end with an N42 head you get a 9.8:1 compression ratio compared to the same block with a P79 head is only 8.5:1 CR with more restriced exhaust runners, a well tuned set up can yeild 200 whp! N/A! the turbo in stock trim, only made 180 at the crank!

you can get really creative and use the smallest of the heads the E31 and fit it with oversized valves for a 10.2:1 CR! there are guys getting 240whp from L28's with 14:1 CR race gas only! and some of the strokers are well above that

Post by **nismo 03** » Thu Jan 25, 2007 6:51 am

ok ok i hate numbers.....

i was at my friends hose yesterday and i got to see the webers he was talking about they are in working condition and just need to be cleaned off.(rebuild kit and a good polish). o and he said he wants $80 for the set up so ill be picking it up this weekend.

if i keep the 3 carb set up and the turbo (with custom tom) will i have to replace the distributor to a turbo one of not????

o and do u know a place that sells steel fuel lines and fittings

Post by **evildky** » Thu Jan 25, 2007 10:49 am

if you do a custome blow through turbo set up using the tripple carbs, you'll have to use an N/A dist and an MSD6BTM or similar to retard the timing, also require a custome surgetank etc, as for fuel lines, the carbs should have t fittings so simple rubber hose betwee them is more than sufficient, the operatiion fuel pressure on the tripple is like 3-5 psi, should be sued with a mechanical fuel pump or a low pressure electric, the stock electric fuel pump will overpower the needsl valves unless you have a regulator to drop the pressure before it gets tot he carbs

Post by **nismo 03** » Thu Jan 25, 2007 11:12 am

hahahaha coooooooooooooooo

i have the MDS BOOST RETARD ALREADY ON THE CAR (best $350 ever)

The Fuel pump has already been replaced when i first added the carb set up single weber (from a 210 wagon the me and a friend had to repo lol)

o and am looking for steel braided hoses for the oil dump on the turbo and the fuel line on the car and i was also looking for the fittings

Post by **evildky** » Thu Jan 25, 2007 6:20 pm

oh if using the stock turbo with oi dsscharge tube and stock turbo oil pan you just need about 3 inches of 5/8" silicoln tubig IIRC

not too familiar with the blow through setup but pretty sure you're gona want to fuel bowl floats pressurized as well as any fuel prssure regulator and to keep up with fuel demand under boost I'm pretty sure you'll need a high flow electric unit, you didn't specify but I assume you're running electric as you don't have a fuel pump escentric on your camshaft and a P79 head does not have the hole for the mechanical fuel pump

Post by **nismo 03** » Fri Jan 26, 2007 8:50 am

ok can u break that down for me just a lil....

so i have to buy another fuel pump????

the steel braided hoses i need are for the carb set up and for the turbo there is a really long line going from the turbo to the other side of the engine because they are silicone and i cant run it where i want to because it will melt! thats why i need the steel braided ones.

what about a pressure bowl????

Post by **PacMan86** » Fri Jan 26, 2007 9:37 am

drifting is all in the control of the driver. I learned how to drift first in a 2004 Dodge Neon SXT (not SRT-4) automatic transmission, front wheel drive, and really not that fast. But I did it. It's all about getting to know your car and figuring out what it takes for you to go sidewayz. Hit me back if you want me to sending some drifting 101 information.

Post by **evildky** » Fri Jan 26, 2007 9:27 pm

the stock steel fuel line and return come up on the passanger side near the front fo the car, with a small rubber section that lead to the stock fuel rail feed and return lines, you should have a fuel pressure regulator here, a low pressure unit inteded for use with carbs, it will hook up to the feed and return lines, the outlet than hooks to the webbers, a small length of hose to rech from the regulator, rpresumably located ont aht very fenderwell across the front of the engine and intot he frotn carb's feed line which should be "T'"'d into the other carbs feed line, they are do not use a return

as fr the turbo, you should have a "T" block that goes into the oil pressure sender port, and a steel line that wraps around the back of the motor and feeds intot he top of the turbo, there should be a pipe bolted to the bottom of the turbo with a sharp bend at the bottom, the turbo oil pan has a nipple on it to recieve the discharged oil, you only need a 3" piece of silicoln tubing (heat resistand) to link the 2, I think it was about 5/8, maybe 3/4 diameter

Post by **cpt jack** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 12:14 pm

i dirft my 280zx.... ive really got no motor upgrades but i do have suspension work and some chassis mods ive done.... i welded some braces so give a little more rigitity, makin my own front sway bar, tokicko struts and springs all around.... stiffist i could find at the time, and upgraded to a 2+2 clutch and throwout bearing, and a S8t pipe.... she does the job quite well... i can do switch backs, more or less what ever i can think up just gotta have a lil more foot work, i really want ss line brakes u get brake fade like crazy, but other then that its alot easier because u have a **** load of tq on ur side.....

http://sincityz.org/gallery/2006-05-28/IMG_016.jpg

Post by **nismo 03** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 1:30 pm

evildky wrote:the stock steel fuel line and return come up on the passanger side near the front fo the car, with a small rubber section that lead to the stock fuel rail feed and return lines, you should have a fuel pressure regulator here, a low pressure unit inteded for use with carbs, it will hook up to the feed and return lines, the outlet than hooks to the webbers, a small length of hose to rech from the regulator, rpresumably located ont aht very fenderwell across the front of the engine and intot he frotn carb's feed line which should be "T'"'d into the other carbs feed line, they are do not use a return

as fr the turbo, you should have a "T" block that goes into the oil pressure sender port, and a steel line that wraps around the back of the motor and feeds intot he top of the turbo, there should be a pipe bolted to the bottom of the turbo with a sharp bend at the bottom, the turbo oil pan has a nipple on it to recieve the discharged oil, you only need a 3" piece of silicoln tubing (heat resistand) to link the 2, I think it was about 5/8, maybe 3/4 diameter

ok got that.

the lines for the turbo have all been ran, thats not the problem. i want the s/b hose to keep them from melting because they are touching the block...

the lower line is in place we drilled a hole in the oil pan and bolted the line to that (no it does not leak) .

my question now is where do i get that fpr and how much are they the weber set up i have at this moment is not using one and i am running a low pressure fuel pump for carbs.

do i need to go back and buy a new pump????

o and this is a few pics of the webers i picked up

i will get some more today i already started cleaning them up

Post by **nismo 03** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 1:35 pm

PacMan86 wrote:drifting is all in the control of the driver. I learned how to drift first in a 2004 Dodge Neon SXT (not SRT-4) automatic transmission, front wheel drive, and really not that fast. But I did it. It's all about getting to know your car and figuring out what it takes for you to go sidewayz. Hit me back if you want me to sending some drifting 101 information.

sorry about that i know how to get side ways already i learned in i think it was 03/04 cant really remember but i did it with a front wheel drive car also (1992 honda accord) the car had no balls so i would only do it on wet days at the great western... Really big Parking lot...

what i was asking is if a 280zx is a good car to use as a drift car. (and yes i know they have a lot of body roll)

Post by **cpt jack** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 1:41 pm

nismo 03 wrote:
sorry about that i know how to get side ways already i learned in i think it was 03/04 cant really remember but i did it with a front wheel drive car also (1992 honda accord) the car had no balls so i would only do it on wet days at the great western... Really big Parking lot...

what i was asking is if a 280zx is a good car to use as a drift car. (and yes i know they have a lot of body roll)

like i said do some chassis mods and ull be fine...

Post by **nismo 03** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 1:45 pm

cpt jack wrote:like i said do some chassis mods and ull be fine...

am planning on a full up grade on the suspension am thinking of getting them from arizonazcars.com the engine is still not finished and have no idea where to get some strut bars o and really dont want to make my own i think it will make the car look

Post by **cpt jack** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 2:01 pm

nismo 03 wrote:am planning on a full up grade on the suspension am thinking of getting them from arizonazcars.com the engine is still not finished and have no idea where to get some strut bars o and really dont want to make my own i think it will make the car look

If u know how to weld and have a good idea of what its doin then i would say ull be fine... but if ur just welding **** ur car would look like well rice... ill post up some pix when its all done... if ur lookin for **** thats already pre made go to zstore.com.... so yea hope ur car comes out right and not rice lol... the webbers are very finiky.... the floats are very tempermental...

280zx drifting question

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