13" front rotor/300zx caliper upgrade

ONLY for ADVANCED technical discussion about the 240sx!
APEXi240
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Exar-Kun wrote:man..holly christ in a elvis outfit apex, we JUST covered THAT. it will NOT stop you any faster!...ugh.-chet


I was being sarcastic...I've understood this brake thing for a while. Although I got no clue about the physics. It is however common sense that if you're locking up your brakes...that is as fast as you can stop.

Sarcasm doesn't play through well over the internet.


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float_6969
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I think a summary would be helpful right about now. The information the has ultimatly been devined from this 3 page thread is as follows; big breaks don't make you stop in a shorter distance, they only reduce/eliminate break fade! Sooooo, unless you've ever had a problem with your brakes fading, or you just wanna look cool, the brake upgrade won't help you. Argueing this fact could possibly lead to the appearance of a lack of intellegencte. I don't know that this was neccisary, but I'm bored and getting paid right now, so what can ya do?

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Exar-Kun
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apex, yeah thats why I started putting ( /sarcasm) at the end of my psots...

god damn..Im R teh drunk....I'll post sober later...

-chet

TrueSlide
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My turn for the question, Yes I know bigger brakes do not stop faster, but is it because it takes less pedal pressure to stop that could make ppl feel like it is stopping faster? Because Bigger Brakes + bigger pads = more surface area covered = less pedal pressure to be applied to equal the amount of pedal pressue and surface area covered with the smaller brakes?

If I confused anyone please let me know :)

APEXi240
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Its not dead yet....can we keep beating this subject?

TrueSlide
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Iam not beating, just seeing If what I learned is right.

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C-Kwik
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K-Car is right about everything he posted. There is another element to consider though, but it is probably beyond any of our time contraints or our budgets. Assuming overheating is not an issue, tires are your limiting factor. This has been discussed so we won't go into detail there. But, as you get into stickier tires, the car stops faster, so you get more weight transfer. The faster you can stop, the more front bias is necessary to maximize the braking between the front and rear wheels. More braking force in the front can make for a shorter stopping distance in a case like this, but doing this would require a good bit of research and in a lot of cases, going through several calipers with varying piston sizes. And this would be quite negligible on an ABS equipped car since the ABS would help to maximize braking force at each wheel at all times.

Secondly, larger rotors do lend itself to more braking force given the same amount of clamping force and coefficient of friction between the pad and the rotor. There's more leverage. But like different pistons, in most cases, it would be hard to determine what is optimal.

Also, there is a situation where smaller brakes will definitely stop at a longer distance. Try a very high speed stop to 0 mph. Like a lot of things involving speed, the energy that has to be absorbed goes up with the square of speed. Use brakes that are too small and you will fade them during your first stop from a very high speed. If you are going fast enough and stopping hard enough, it is theoretically possible to fade them to the point the pads start to outgas and severely affect your stopping distance.

Lastly, the stock brakes may not necessarily be too small for racing. Depends on the track. Autocrossing requires very little extended braking. In most cases, you will only use your brakes to adjust your speed within a range of about 30 mph. You will typically run an entire auto-x course in 2nd gear. Track racing is a bit of a different beast and braking requirements will vary from one track to the next. High speed courses with sharp turns would require much more extended braking. Some tight windy courses are more of a high speed auto-x, and while they require more braking, the stocks may hold up.

I use 300 ZX brakes and ironically, I've felt the first hint of fade in the year and a half I've had them on. I took a 100-0 stop as fast as I could and it required slightly more pedal pressure than usual. Though it was just the contact point getting too hot as the rotor pulled the heat right out of the pads before the next stop. Pads that handle higher heat would be more beneficial in this case, but rotor size is still sufficient. And I doubt you will ever see a 100-0 stop on any normal road course. I've never felt a hint of fade at track events.

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Exar-Kun
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stainless steel lines will increase both the line pressure and the consistency of the pressure(via less bulge, and keeping the inner diamter of the line the same with the steel lines running on the chassis of the car), making it easier to lock them up because the brake response is greater, at least thats how I understand it, if Im wrong K will correct me here shortly.

so I would figure the same goes for "big brake" kits, because all the ones I know about include SS lines...

-chet

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Nils
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Brakes work in a simple way. They transform Kinetic energy into heat energy, meaning that the energy it takes to stop the car has to go somewhere.... it turns into heat energy.

A bigger rotor and caliper does not automatically promise initial biting force, but will guarantee a lower temperature in contained heat energy over time. See, it is the heat that fades brakes, making them smoochy and slow. Heat makes the brakes slippery, the hotter the worse untill complete failure. A bigger rotor will dissapate the heat quicker than a smaller rotor. A slotted rotor will do it even quicker beacuse it channels cool air more effeciently over the rotor. (btw - I do NOT recommend drilled rotors since they tend to crack)

What I am speaking of here does not really apply to street driving, rarely would you fade your brakes in street driving, if ever. On the track it is a completely different story, you can experience bad brake fade unless you have better pads, bigger rotors and bigger calipers.

This thread is boring... this has been discussed soooo many times and I wish some of you new guys would use the "search" feature of this site more often.

The 300zx brake conversion is a great way to improve breaking at a very cheap price. I have tested and proven the breakes on the track many times and with aggressive brakes pads such as the Porterfield R4's or the Carbotech XP's the car stops extremely well. I can tell you right now that on most tracks I frequent I rarely experience bad brake fade, I should mention though that I have brake ducts that channel cool air directly to the rotor and that helps alot too.

ok, I am done rambling....

n

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C-Kwik
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Actually, heat is not necessarily a bad thing. Brakes for more extreme racing applications require heat to stop effectively. While any street set-up should not be built like this, and will likely brake quite effectively when cold, it is important that you control temperature within the pad's specified range.

As far as slots, they do very little to help cooling. They really just clean the pad surface to provide fresh pad material to contact the rotor. Cross-drilling has a slightly better cooling effect, but it is not worth mentioning. The ftype of fade most of us will deal with is outgassing. Then the pad material gets so hot that the materials in it begin to vaporize, you get a layer of gas between the rotor and the pad. Pedal pressure will feel fine in this instance, but the car just won't stop as effectively. Cross-Drilling can help in this instance since it gves a place for the gasses to go. Cross-Drilling is fine if done correctly. If the rotor is cast with the holes, it tends to stay quite strong. If it is drilled, it is important that the holes be chamferred. Without Chamferring, the holes have sharp edges and like casting flashes on an engines internals, it gives a place for a crack to develop. Too many companies give cross-drilling a bad name by just taking any old rotor and drilling it out and calling it their own product.

Nils, is that your Supra btw? I remember reading about it in SCC(I believe it was SCC). I helped build a Supra with a T04R and we only boosted 1 bar. Freaking insane. I don't know what the hell I would do with 671 HP. Though it might be fun trying...heh

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Nils
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Originally posted by C-Kwik "]Actually, heat is not necessarily a bad thing. Brakes for more extreme racing applications require heat to stop effectively. While any street set-up should not be built like this, and will likely brake quite effectively when cold, it is important that you control temperature within the pad's specified range.

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This is a given ckwik..... everything in life has an operational temperature, I am talking about when it gets hotter than that... I know that a certain amount of heat is required to make brakes work more efficiently, this is one of the many reasons we do warm up laps. MY point was that usually the brakes get hotter than they are supposed to.

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As far as slots, they do very little to help cooling.

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Prove it to me..... a buddy of mine used AP brakes first with regular plain rotors for a 20 minute session, we then changed to slotted rotors, went out again for 20 minutes and when we put the heat gun to it it showed lower temps. That is real life track proven stuff, I dont know what you got.....

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Cross-Drilling is fine if done correctly. If the rotor is cast with the holes, it tends to stay quite strong. If it is drilled, it is important that the holes be chamferred. Without Chamferring, the holes have sharp edges and like casting flashes on an engines internals, it gives a place for a crack to develop. Too many companies give cross-drilling a bad name by just taking any old rotor and drilling it out and calling it their own product.

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True, but I'd still get the slotted rotors and so would 20 other of my road racing buddies.

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Nils, is that your Supra btw? I remember reading about it in SCC(I believe it was SCC). I helped build a Supra with a T04R and we only boosted 1 bar. Freaking insane. I don't know what the hell I would do with 671 HP. Though it might be fun trying...heh

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Yes, the car was in SCC... it has been featured in many magazines =)

You can never have enough HP =))

take care,nils

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Sopdadope
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In my original question I only wanted to know how many people were using the Cobra rotors and if they were adequate for regular autox'ing (meaning 2-5 visits to a roadcourse a month).

So far I only know of one person who has these 13" rotors and we only chatted briefly, it's not like I interrogated the man about brake how effective the rotors were. I figured that when upgrading to the 300ZX rotors, one would have to drill the rotors to fit anyway, why not spend a bit more for rotors that are larger, and effectively, better.

Nils, I understand what you mean. The 300ZX rotors are plenty good for roadracing and I should be more concerned about getting the good pads, SS lines and air ducting than rotor size but it doesn't hurt to ask does it? BTW, I did use the search function, not once did I see the Cobra rotors mentioned anywhere.

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Or you can do a whole hub upgrade. You then can purchase 300zx rotors with out drilling, and get a better wheel and tire. You can simply use the 300zx wheels. They are cheap and easy to find. You can get a larger width for the rear. 16x8 in the rear and 16x7 in the front from a z32. Better braking and handleing

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Two-Forty
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wow, lost to a k car you a brake mechanic or something?...I never knew there were equations for brakes on a car, I think I get what you sayin though. that brings me to this question....so it doesn't really matter what size rotors you have? or yes it does or like TrueSlide said it just looks nice.

Bob H
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So here I am browsing around while researching for a friend,(is doing a SR20 swap). And I stumble on this thread. I spend most of my time on corner-carvers.com and loved most of the replies to poor tech. Poor tech or poorly backed up tech deserves a good smack down. Assclowns abound with poor tech and it is good to see someone graciously show them the error of their ways. Humor is always a bouns. lookslikea240 was in over his head. but that's ok. however, lost-to-a-k-car, one point. first, you were dead on right up to your last post. you however, overstepped the discussion on brakes. I'll work it in your style:

2. "times line pressure"Bzzt. Sorry, Cooter. Tell him what he's won, Jim.Cooter's won an all-expense paid trip to Science Land, where he'll learn interesting facts, like- You can't measurably compress a liquid in an automotive hydraulic system!

Care to expound how this applies to the original statement? Noone said the fluid was compressed. So I fail to see what you are getting at and why it has anything to do with line pressure? I have always assumed in this discussion, that the hydraulic brake fluid is incompressible for all purposes and transmits all the applied force from the master cylinder to the brake pistons. Perhaps it is a semantics issue for you,(this is my chosen theme). I read line pressure to mean the pressure the fluid is exerting on the various surfaces it is in contact with.

- The pressure of the fluid in the system is irrelevant to the force applied to or extracted from either end of the system!

Ok then, I'm game - what is? Am I to assume that the piston will move of its own free will? Perhaps it is some of that magic you refered to earlier. Some force must move that piston and then allow it to exert force on the brake pad. Pressure is a measure of force. Or more specifically, force applied to an area. So if I put a force on one end of a hydraulic line, and nothing can move on the other end of this line,(and for this discussion, we will assume the line does not expand). Then that force applied at one end will be distributed evenly through the fluid and the fluid will extert pressure equally throughout the line. Now lets stick a movable piston on the other end. As we apply pressure on the brake pedal, increasing the pressure in the system,(line pressure), the resultant force,(the pressure distributed over an area) on the piston will cause it to move. But since we are dealing with an incompressible fluid, if we didn't continue to move the brake pedal, the piston would stop immediately. However, we move the brake pedal, which moves the fluid which moves the piston until it hits something causing it to stop. Now as we continue to increase the pressure on the brake pedal, that pressure is transmitted to the surface of the piston. If something is in the way, like say a pad and a rotor, that pressure will be transmitted into a force on the rotor. So by my take, our force on the pedal, which increased the "line pressure" is now translated into a resultant "push" on the rotor, or a force on the rotor. So break it down for me. How is the pressure in the system NOT transmitting the force we are putting on the brake pedal to a resultant proportional force on the pad? Again, a pressure is a force over an area. So we take a pressure and apply it to an area,(the piston), we now have a resultant force. Again, if you are just playing symantics to screw with lookslikea240, so be it. However, the result is misleading for the rest reading this thread.

- You don't multiply the area of the piston face by anything when calculating the force in a hydraulic system!

Ok, then what are you refering to? You DO multiply the pressure in the "system" i.e. the lines, by the surface area it acts upon,(in this case the brake caliper pistons), to calculate the force exerted on the back of the brake pads. Again, you may be playing a symantic game. But bottom line, the pressure in the system times the area it acts upon gives you the force it exerts on the surface in question. In this case, the line pressure times the piston area,(all the pistons area), equals the force applied to the back of the brake pad, and in turn to the surface of the rotor,(with another area to deal with). Now we didn't even get into rotor diameter having a greater leverage, etc.. But that was not really part of the discussion. But it was discussed earlier:Exar-Kun said...larger diamter rotors major benifit is from the increased surface area and therefore cooling/heat absorbing ability of the rotor

Correct. They will cool more efficiently, which will reduce fade. This is the benefit of larger brakes, not faster stopping.

If your brakes aren't fading, the upgrade won't do anything for you. Sopdadope's friend Dave autocrosses, so he probably already understands this and has the upgrade for the right reasons. You left out one very important issue. First, the major benefit of a bigger brake upgrade depends on the stock system. Some systems have way too little mass in the rotor and heat soak the rotor quickly. Others are just undersized and cannot exert much work on the tire to slow it down at high speeds. Sometimes a bigger brake upgrade is a larger diameter rotor with a stock caliper. So then the question is will a larger diameter rotor perform better assuming the same overall mass? (yes, unlikely, but just assume for my theoretical example) Absolutely. It is levereage. But let me clarify. Your last statement that if they aren't fading the upgrade won't do anything for you is only partially correct. With a larger diameter rotor you can effect more leverage on the rotor,(and hence the tire). This is most obvious at higher speeds where the rotaional speed,(dealing with high levels of inertia now) of the tire is high and very few stock systems can lock up any tires,(talking 100+ mph). At that point, the larger diameter the rotor, the more leverage the caliper,(pads), have on the rotor and the more work they can accomplish. This will obviously pump much more heat into the system for a give max performance stop. But I am assuming the rotor can handle it for my example. You always maintained that if it can lock up the tires, bigger brakes won't make a bit of difference. And I agree 100% since you were refering to below 60-70 mph. However, on the track, mass of the rotor is most certainly an issue, but the leverage the brakes calipers,(really the pads), can apply to the rotor directly affects how well it can stop. And Nils, one comment: Prove it to me..... a buddy of mine used AP brakes first with regular plain rotors for a 20 minute session, we then changed to slotted rotors, went out again for 20 minutes and when we put the heat gun to it it showed lower temps. That is real life track proven stuff, I dont know what you got..... First, you are missing some information to give out that kinda data. First, was the first rotor used or brand new for the 20 min session as the second slotted rotor was? Were they manafactured by the same company, i.e. brembo vs someone else? And what type of heat gun did you use? Did they follow the exact same procedure for each measurement? Was their a cool down lap or was this pulled in right after a hot lap and close to another braking zone? Did they brake easy or hard coming into the pits? Not trying to berate you, but all those have a rather significant impact on the readings and you didn't offer any of that info for us. Did you realize that a surface pyrometer gives much more accurate temperature readings than a infared pyrometer,(i.e. a gun)? This becomes and issue when you are reading temps from something that is really shinny, such as your brake rotors.... That is why I ask. Not saying you didn't see the data you said, but rather it may be inaccurate because of the measuring method/equipment. Take a look at all the serious high level road racers,(IMSA, F1, Touring car). You will not find any slotted or crossdrilled rotors. They all go with solid. All the slotted rotors do,(besides give a place for a crack to start), is accelerate your pad wear. Yes, there is some effect to "cleaning" the pads. That is precisely what accelerates the wear. However, it is possible that with the setup you had, the pads were beginning to glaze over,(on the regular rotor), and became less effective, causing the driver to need to apply more force to the system to effect the similar braking,(was likely reduced effectiveness, causing increased braking distances, and more heat being pumped into the system). With the slotted rotors, the glazing issue is really not there, so it may have corrected a weakness in your braking system,(I assume you are refering to another heavy supra...:)). And this comment:A slotted rotor will do it even quicker beacuse it channels cool air more effeciently over the rotorThat is just patently false. Can you describe the airflow over the surface of the rotor? Can you say turbulent flow? The slots, as discussed above, only serve to wipe a little more material from the pad each pass. It may correct a deficiency in the system which is causing the pads to glaze. Any inperceptible increase in cooling,(unlikely at best) is more than offset by the decrease in mass from the removed material. In either case,(cooling or removed mass), the effect is so small, you won't even notice it. Again, I refer to my above comments about the possible reasons why your readings were lower. -Bobthis ought to be fun

Bob H
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Bleary eyed? Yup. I now see where you were coming from, it wasn't clear before,(and I didn't have the luxury, or the desire to read all the other brake threads). Fair enough to say it is only a discussion about the 240sx brakes. I didn't assume that. And I will readily admit I have yet to do the calculation for the additional radius,(but I will be soon for different reasons). What I now see is that you are referencing the input force,(the pedal or Fx in your eqn), to the resultant force Fy. Where I was talking about a generalized fluid pressure system. Hence the asking for clarification. So as you said it was symantics. You are talking about caliper force. I was talking about force as a result of system pressure. It still remains that the pressure in the system is a result of some input force(your Fx) over the input piston area(Ax). That pressure created is equally distributed through the fluid. You CAN correlate the internal pressue to the force on the other end. But you wanted equations. Ok, I'll use yours. First, I reference your statements. You said:Quote »The actual measured pressure of the fluid in the line is irrelevent to the force at the caliper.[/quote] andQuote »And the pressure of the fluid in the line is *still* irrelevent to the determination of the force at the caliper. [/quote] and Quote »Nowhere do you perform a multiplication operation on the raw surface area number.[/quote]

I found the following rather simple drawing,(to explain the force/pressure issue). It is at the very bottom - the lift example:hydraulic pressure But the meat...By your equation:Fy=(Ay/Ax)FxIt is assumed that F*A=pressure(we are already in agreement there). And using your equation, Fy/Ay=Fx/Ax. Just a mere simplification. So taking that to this: Fx/Ax=system pressure,(sp). And that system pressure,(sp) is equal to Fy/Ay,(because Fy/Ay=Fx/Ax). So sp=Fy/Ay, and sp=Fx/Ax. So to solve, sp*Ay=Fy. Or in laymens terms. System pressure, multiplied by the area of the second piston,(in this case, the caliper pistons), equals....drum roll....The force at the piston! So by that equation, if you want to correlate the system pressure, multiply it by the area it is acting upon to get the resultant force. Again, in your arguement, you are correltating the input force to the output force. The others, including those idiots at that brake company are using the system pressure to find the output force. It all works, with your equation I might add. Actually, Pascal's equation. Pascal's law is dealing with a force/area translated to a different size area via fluid. Again, we are talking from two ends of the spectrum, but the same thing. And one last comment. You said:Quote »The limiting factor is always the rubber. Always.[/quote]Be careful when saying always. If the brake system is not capable of generating the maximum grip of the tire, then IT is the limiting factor. What about a 1930 Model A Ford that I drove to HS? I promise the limiting factor was most certainly not the tires, but the brake system. You measure braking in minutes, not seconds in that car. A emergency stop from 50 mph in that can be scary,(assuming you had the mile and a half to get up that fast!). But lets asssume you have a set of DOT Hoosiers, heck even a nice set of racing slicks, nice and heated up. Your brakes just became the limiting factor at the higher speeds. Once the car slows down, and that intertia of the wheel is less, the brakes are then capable of locking the tire,(a different way of saying it is exceeding the friction generating capabilities of the tires, which might be .8-.95). So if a system,(yes, talking general here, but I'm sure the 240sx qualifies as my BMW M coupe does), is not capable of creating the torque to exceed the friction limits of the tires,(generally this is only at the higher speeds mentioned before) then the brakes are the limiting factor in your stopping. This can be exagerated by something like heavy wheels and tires,(more intertia to stop). So yes, I agree that the tires are the primary limiting factor, but not the sole factor. And in deference to your comment that this is about the 240sx brakes, I contend that with good tires, above 100 mph, the brakes are your limiting factor. At the lower speeds, the tires clearly are. And yes I have been in a 240sx with a SR20det on the track at VIR. I was fortunate enough to instruct a guy who had a really nice 240. We did have brake issues at the higher speeds. He could not lock them up above about 80, and he had a well sorted system. I force my students to push the threshold and try to lock them up so they know where the limit is,(most students never even approach the limit). They would start locking up about 65 mph plus or minus a litte each time when he did push it. This was stopping from about 120-125 and he had DOT rubber. He did not have ABS. I read enough on this site to realize you generally are spot on. Unfortunatly for you, most of the target audience is a younger more inexperinced crowd than I deal with on my boards. I realize you spend most of your time smacking down idiots who really have just enough grasp of what they are talking about to be dangerous to everyone else, hence the knee jerk reaction to the pressure in the fluid arguement. I too get sick of people putting out bad info because a majority of the readers on a given board are reading because they don't know and want to learn. Nothing is worse than some idiot muddying the waters with half truths or statements like my friends car did xyz. I'll leave this discussion on 240 brakes to you 240 folks because I really don't know the details of the system. I do have a 240, but it is a 240Z with a RB26 sitting waiting to be installed. That an a 94 RX-7 suspension I just pulled last week. Lets just say those two items weren't cheap.....-Bob

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Nils
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eeehhhhhh... I reserve the right to shut up now ;)

I am not a brake expert, I only try things out and if they work for me I bless them.... but I understand now that there are too many variables involved to claim best results... that is what you "techno-hyper-babble" guys are for =)

take care,nils

btw - We did use a surface pyrometer, both sets of rotors were new... the pads could have been glazed though....

Bob H
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Damm it, I could have sworn I was on 1930-ford.org. I hate it when that happens.....Conceded, although I'd still like to hear how you plan to determine the line pressure of the system without knowing Ax and Fx. It isn't listed in my FSM. Well, you will always know Ax and Ay because that is your master cylinder diameter Ax (well, Pi*r^2 for the area), and the diameter of your pistons Ay(again, obviously the Pi*r^2 area thing, times two if you have a sliding caliper). So those are always known and are in your FSM,(unless you go crazy and start upgrading...). Now, to directly address your question, you can get away with knowing only one side of the force and area, i.e. Fx and Ax, to find the system pressure and there is a reason to calculate that. Because that will be the same no matter what the Ay or resultant Fy is. This is valuable when you are looking at upgrading to a different set of calipers with a different piston area Ay,(and lets not forget a different overall pad area). That is the only time I see that system pressure is of any value in figuring out brake force. Fx will always be some function of whatever force you put at the brake pedal times the ratio of the pedal/plunger. That will obviously not be in the FSM. You could do the math and measure how far from the pivot the plunger is and how far the pedal pad is from the pivot and calcluate what your 50lb force at the pedal is giving at the master cylinder piston,(Ax). I for one am not going to mess with that. I think it is safe to say you established your stance as well. :) Not only that, I realize most people here were well over their head as soon as we started into Pascal's law, so this is not something your average Joe will be computing, but now they know how. Anyways, I appreciate that you were 17+ feet past the end of your rope when I came along. Sorry to antagonize. :icesangel But as for keeping my 240 pure? My poor car was devirginized long ago. I have had a 3.1 stroker motor in the car since 97,(I wrote the Datsun Workshop if you are familiar with Z stuff). I set out to have a track car with 400 reliable hp this time around. That is hard to do with the original L6, and I really didn't want a V8. While I love my 240Z in "stock" form, it is an absolute handful on the track,(very much a drivers car with the stock style suspension), and the L6 has some pooling of oil in the head issues when you go through a series of linked turns,(oil won't drain back down to the pan and collects in the cylinder head). It is not comforting to see low,(near 0) oil pressure coming out of turn 9 at Summit or turn turn 8-9 at VIR. In my view, at least I am keeping it all Nissan. That is my cheap justification anyhow.... Although if I was rich, I would love to have one car I saw this past weekend at Summit Point - a Jaguar XJ220. It was supposedly the one that raced at LeMans last year,(pure hearsay). You want to talk about blowing away the competition in Super Unlimited-0. It was like the other cars weren't accelertating on the straightaway. But I don't have several hundred thousand dollars for this car.....:( It was the first time I had ever seen a XJ220, and to see it on the track was great. I am always happy when I see people with great cars take them out on the track. I love it when I see the exotics out on the track. The Ferrari's,(there was a 360 challenge car there this weekend), the Speed GT Porseche Cup cars were there,(3-4). There was a full blown GT-1 tube frame C5 corvette there to name a few. And to think, this was just a NASA event with a HPDE thrown in.-Bob<edit>added what value there is in computing system pressure,</edit>

off to search for 1930_ford_model_a.org and antagonize them about sh**ty brakes....:)

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Nils
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Bob,You race with NASA? What chapter?

take care,nils

Bob H
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NASA VA, and will likely be out in CA next summer. And I don't race, but instruct in the HPDE's. Racing may someday be on my agenda, but for now, just driving at the events and the resultant tire/brake and upgrade cost is more than enough for me. When I get ballsy I'll likely go into Spec Miata. That can be a true test of your driving abilities, because they are typically a very close field. BTW, I did drive against Andi B. in his Supra at TWS. At the time he was desperately trying to break 2 min with street tires. That weekend I was running 2:06's in my M coupe. I finally broke the 2 min barrier before I moved out here. I am fairly sure with his 600+ hp now, he has as well. The day in question he was putting out around 450 hp,(still had the twins). -Bob

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Nils
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Bob H wrote:NASA VA, and will likely be out in CA next summer. And I don't race, but instruct in the HPDE's. Racing may someday be on my agenda, but for now, just driving at the events and the resultant tire/brake and upgrade cost is more than enough for me. When I get ballsy I'll likely go into Spec Miata. That can be a true test of your driving abilities, because they are typically a very close field. BTW, I did drive against Andi B. in his Supra at TWS. At the time he was desperately trying to break 2 min with street tires. That weekend I was running 2:06's in my M coupe. I finally broke the 2 min barrier before I moved out here. I am fairly sure with his 600+ hp now, he has as well. The day in question he was putting out around 450 hp,(still had the twins). -Bob


Cool.. =)I know Andi...

I run at all the NASA Vegas events and will attend alot of the CA events aswell this coming year, currently running HPDE 4 but I already got my competition license, funds wont allow me to race though. Hopefully I will run into you in CA.... Ryan Flaherty, Ray Hampton and the rest of the West coast NASA organizers are good people.

take care,nils

Bob H
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Yea, After going through several orginizations, I really like NASA. I just like the atmosphere and people. 600+ hp on a road course. Now [that would be fun! Of course I am looking at 400 hp,(300-350 wheels), in a 2500 lbs car...-Bob

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Nils
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Bob H wrote:Yea, After going through several orginizations, I really like NASA. I just like the atmosphere and people. 600+ hp on a road course. Now [that would be fun! Of course I am looking at 400 hp,(300-350 wheels), in a 2500 lbs car...-Bob


Bob, I have only taken the Supra a couple of times to the track.. not really set up for raod racing... too much lag and over heating. I actually race my 240sx, already sorted out the suspension, rims & brakes, soon to have a sr20det in it.. it will be a fast track car =))

Email me in private if you have any questions conserning the NASA westcoast events etc... [email protected]

take care,nils

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Two-Forty
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you guys gotta re-word your technical terms in regular english for the guys that don't know what the **** you talking about, the only thing I understood was from "bob" and I guess over all. So it brings me to this question, slotted/cross drilled rotors are good for a short period of time? it will wear out your brake pads faster than a regular rotor? I plan to use whatever rotor that will save me less maintenance labor. I want quick braking but then again I am not pushing a 1000hp on my flywheel to be needing formula one braking systems, I just want something to stop me in case I need to for emergency uses. Please reply back in simple terms for me to understand.

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I'll respond from experience. If the rotors are truly cross-drilled, as in all the way through, they will not get worse as they wear down, because they will always have the vent holes, as opposed to some that are only half drilled. I went with KVR cross drilled brake rotors upfront with KVR carbon kevlar brake pads, and wow, they made a pretty damn big difference. Especially when they are hot goin through some mountain roads, they bite MUCH harder than my stock front rotors (my fronts were warped though, so I can't vouch for normal front rotors.) Get them and you'll be impressed...get em at pdm-racing.com

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Two-Forty
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haha I know that quote, the Mclaren F1 ****ed that Skyline up! hahahah TOPGEAR has the best videos!

But back to the moment at hand my question is still not answered,are rotors wid no slot better than crossdrilled/slotted in the long run?, does it make a difference?

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Did you even BOTHER reading the post I just submitted? YES, cross drilled (fully, of course) are better than cross slotted in the long run because they keep their good braking characteristics no matter how much they wear down, where as slotted rotors start losing their cooling capability as the rotors wear down. NOT to mention, fully cross drilled rotors are much more resistant to warpage, read before you make yourself seem ignorant

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Exar-Kun
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"Perhaps we should just go back to "ugh ugh, big brakes good", eh?"

hell yeah. makes it easy for me. and quit with the equasions I got statistics this semester and I'm already up to my freaking ears in math!

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With your last post, I now see why these comments were misleading to me originally:The pressure of the fluid in the system is irrelevant to the force appliedandYou don't multiply the area of the piston face by anything when calculating the force in a hydraulic system!I think it would have been much clearer to me three posts ago if you had said "The pressure of the fluid in the system is not required to determine the force applied." For it most certiainly is relevant, just not required to calculate the force. In fairness to you, you did say that in another area. And for the second sentence:" You don't have to multiply the piston face by anything when calculating the force...blah blah." You get the idea. But MarkEmark.....well...

Did you even BOTHER reading the post I just submitted?

I think he did. He originally said:So it brings me to this question, slotted/cross drilled rotors are good for a short period of time? it will wear out your brake pads faster than a regular rotor? I plan to use whatever rotor that will save me less maintenance labor. To which you responded:If the rotors are truly cross-drilled, as in all the way through, they will not get worse as they wear down, because they will always have the vent holes, as opposed to some that are only half drilled. Ok, see, this is the same problem lost_to_a_k_car and I had. You are not clear. But mainly, you only partially answered his question. You answered about the rotors, and really in a irrelevant way. I think it is safe to say he was more concerned about pads,(because of the previous discussion about pad life and cross drilled rotors), and maintence. I see what you are saying, but again, I agree with him, it really doesn't answer his questions.

YES, cross drilled (fully, of course) are better than cross slotted in the long run because they keep their good braking characteristics no matter how much they wear down, where as slotted rotors start losing their cooling capability as the rotors wear down.

Ok, you have a misconception here. First, when you get a chance, read Porsches literature as to why they cast their rotors with holes,(cross drilling if you will). You will be very suprised to learn that it is mainly for increased braking in the WET,(gives it somewhere to go/helps evacuate the water). It has nothing at all to do with better braking. Any time you reduce the mass of a rotor, you are reducing its capability to do repeated hard stops. If you have ever been to a Porsche club race,(or any race with a Porsche in it), you will see all the stock rotors crack. Yes, cast holes still crack. But I am getting off subject from what you said. It is your cooling claim and warpage claim that I take issue with. To claim cross-drilling,(or sloting or casting) has anyting at all to do with cooling is at worst just plain false and at best misleading. The single largest impact on the cooling of a hot rotor is the airflow through the internal rotor vanes from the inside to the outside,(hence the ducting you often see to the center of the wheels). The second source is surface radiaton from the rotor itself. There may be a very small gain from the increased turbulence caused by the slots or holes. And don't throw out the "more surface area" arguement. It doesn't hold water. You are reducing the available surface area of the contact surface of the rotor, so there will be less radiated heat. And with virtually no airflow through the holes themselves, they are basically unable to radiate more heat to make up for the lost surface area of the hole. However, that is insignificant in the overall scheme of things. Cross drilling and slotting is basicly for looks. Ironically, take a look at a Porsche rotor after a race,(or a serious track session). The holes are full of brake material, to the point of being clogged. I see the Porsche racers blowing out the crap in the holes all the time. The only time it will help is if you have a problem glazing the pads in stock form. Glazing usually occurs when the braking system is inadequate and you must exert a bunch of pressure to effect a good stop. This extra force on the pad overheats the material, causing it to melt/glaze reducing the friction generating capability of the pad. With slots or cross drilled holes, you introduce a angled surface to accelerate the wear on the pad, which in effect decreases the time it takes to work through the glazed portion of the pad. Net effect? Greatly reduce pad life, especially in a track environment. So, as I said to Nils, if your current system has a weakness where it causes the pads to glaze, a slotted or cross drilled rotor will return the braking back to stock levels. It WILL NOT increase the braking performance over a stock system that is working as designed. And when you switch to a race pad, they typically have a much higher coeffiecient of friction which requires less force through the braking system, leading to a less likely occurence of glazing. Interesting dicotomy isn't it?

But wait, there's more! : NOT to mention, fully cross drilled rotors are much more resistant to warpage, read before you make yourself seem ignorant Anytime you call someone ignorant,(or claim they might be), you better double check all your stuff first. Make that triple check. Fully cross drilled rotors are MORE prone to warpage. You know why? Less mass. However, the difference is minimal,(take a look at how much mass you are actually removing in relation to the 5-20lb,(that would be big honking 13-14 inch brakes) weight of the rotor) There are two ways warping can occur. The first is you are working your brakes hard, showin off your mad skillz on the street, accelerating and stopping a bunch, heating up your rotors, trying to impress the ladies. You then come to a quick stop and sit with your foot on the brake. Lets say its at a light for 1 min. So for that one min, your rotors are cooling at an uneven rate. The caliper/via the pads is acting as a big heat sink to the area of the rotors it is touching. So it is allowing the area under the pad to cool faster than the rest of the rotor just exposed to free air. That uneven cooling rate is what will warp your rotors. The second method is where you just run the piss out of the brakes exceeding the heat capacity of the rotors and then they warp from overheating. So now, lets look at your cross drilled rotors. First, you have reduced the mass of your rotors. They are now not as capable of absorbing heat as the stock rotors,(assuming same sizes). That means you will reach the overheating point sooner. How much faster? Might be one stop, might be several. It all depends on the rotor itself, the quality of the casting, etc.. You want to impress your friends? Take your killa car out to a deserted area at night and do several quick repeated stops from 80-100 mph,(might only take one or two hard stops). After the last stop, quickly jump out and look at your rotors. They will be glowing bright orange. You can't see that during the day. I can take my BMW M coupe out and accelerate up to 110 and slam on the brakes to a full stop, hop out, and see dull orange rotors. That is a lot of energy you just asked it to dissapate. Now sit for about 15 seconds then have a buddy push or move the car forward enough to rotate the tires 180 degrees. You will see the rotor is darker where it was under the pad. It is a pretty cool experiment to show what is going on. Yes, I have done it several times because my friends are easy to impress,(hey, they hang out with me, right?!).:pokeSo to answer your original question two-forty, if you want reduced maintence with good or better braking, stick with stock rotors,(meaning not cross drilled or slotted), and get a good quality brake pad. I would recommend talking to Carbotech as they have a good line of brake pads with resonable prices. I cannot recommend EBC as their pads don't last worth a damm. I have no experience, but have heard really good things about the Axxis Ultimates,(Carbotech can get them for you). They dust very little, have improved friction characteristics over a stock pad and should last a little longer. So stock rotors, improved pads and you will be very happy. ugh, ugh, big brakes are better,-Bob

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Two-Forty
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All I have to say is...

whos the ignoramus now huh?!~~

Thanks Bob I will take your advice into consideration.


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