I'm not talking about carrier bearing. I'm talking about just the outer bracket that holds the carrier bearing. 2 plastic clips are holding top and lower brackets together. If 1 piece driveshaft breaks, it should stay in there instead of flying around. Not sure it'll work that way, but just the thought.sbird1 wrote:The carrier bearing is not necessary. That thing is annoying as piss anyway. As for all of that rubber crap, I didn't touch it. Slid the old one out and then slid the new one in.
I'm not sure even that thing will fit, but I'll give it a try. If it fits, I'll just leave it there just in case.sbird1 wrote:Sounds like preference. I just left it off because I hate that thing so much.
Yeah, I'll test fit it first and remove it if it rubs. Aluminum shaft is 3", so yeah, it might rub. One more thing. s13 dust cover/boot should be bigger than s14's, so I'll buy that one and try. I have s13 and my transmission is from s14 and I removed dust boot to replace rear seal on the transmission. s13 people, did you have to remove the dust boot just like s14 people did?Didderson wrote:IMO i wouldn't leave it on. It'll just rub against the drive shaft if it gets loose and you don't want that noise. btw i've been watching this thread for awhile, great thread +1
I've heard about that too. It'll rev faster, but at the same time RPM will drop faster too. I also got Fidanza lightened flywheel, so I want to know about this.M3SP5 wrote:DOES ANYONE HAVE A ALUMINIM DRIVE SHAFT, ALUMINUM UNDERDRIVE PULLEY, AND LIGHT FLYWHEEL HOW DOES IT FEEL ?BECAUSE I HEARD THAT FOR DAILY DAY DRIVING ITS KIND OF BAD BECAUSE THE DRIVE TRAIN IS TO LIGHT COMMENT PLEASE
How o how did you get that freakin' dust boot off the transmission. I tried pulling it off with pliers and knocking at it with a hammer and no go. I'm currently trying to remove the dust boots from my SR transmission and my KA transmission so I can swap them out. I banged the KA boot up so I might just get another one but I still need to get the one off my SR somehow?94_240sx wrote:
You don't have to cut it. You can just pry it out or use a hammer to bang it out. It'll just pop out like this.
Thanks you!!! I did some more research and I'd like to buy one with Nissan OEM u-joints. I'll keep in mind that shaftmaster is the better bang for a buck.
I already have s15 Helical internal in my open diff pumpkin, so I just need regular s13 drive shaft without ABS.
This should work. Put a wrench extension like this, and bang it out with a hammer. Don't work on one spot too long and move the extension around and hit. I'd spray PB Blaster also. Let me know how it goes.positronone wrote:How o how did you get that freakin' dust boot off the transmission. I tried pulling it off with pliers and knocking at it with a hammer and no go. I'm currently trying to remove the dust boots from my SR transmission and my KA transmission so I can swap them out. I banged the KA boot up so I might just get another one but I still need to get the one off my SR somehow?
You are very welcome. I ended up spray painting u-joints with high temp rattle can. Somehow water touched it and saw rust building up right away. (Rained, and I left it right next to garage door.) They were not treated at all. It was just bare metal.Rockwell240sx wrote:Great Posts. Thanks.Lookin to upgrade asapF the driveshaft carrier bearing
Next week!!! Pedals and clutch hardline are in, all the necessary parts purchased, arrived and ready to go.sbird1 wrote:So you still have yet to put yours in? It's not a big difference in power or response but it is noticable.
Oh, yeah. I could tell from the conversation I had with David and the quality of the product. BTW, Shaftermaster and Drive Shaft Shop both use Spicer U-Joints(Made in U.S.A.).bolenballa wrote:I got mine from shaftmasters as they are close to me. They even let me go back into their shop and check it out. (I'm a welder and wanted to see their set-up). They are a great company to work with.
yeah, using a one piece metal shaft without a loop is dangerous. If the joints or teh shaft fail the loose shaft will beat the crap out of the floor pan and if it breaks at the transmission there is a risk of the shaft stabbing into the ground and launching the vehicle into the air/flips/etc. The stock shaft, since it's two piece, would just beat the floor pan up (if the loop wasn't there or it broke at the diff). Anyone using a one piece metal shaft (steel or alum) needs to run a drive shaft loop in case of failure even if you're no where near the hp limits of the shaft. Check with NHRA or another drag race sanctioning body for guidelines/rules governing thickness and construction of loops. It'll let you pass tech (if you drag) or at least let you know how to build it right for max. safety. If you drop the $ for a carbon fiber shaft, were it to break, it would just broom (fray out in fibers) and basically "sweep" your floor pan clean and shiny.sbird1 wrote:Nice job on the dust cover!!! Looks great. I hate that carrier bearing loop sooo much. I just left it off of mine. It just holds the shaft more in place in case of a failure? Looks great man. Enjoy that extra wheel torque!!!