1.8s needs more power

[VMPhil]

you must really really want a fast car. im not so sure you want an RX-7 unless you have a lot of money to keep it running. Dont get me wrong the RX-7 is a sweet car but you may end up spending alot of money replacing Apex seals and filling the engine with Oil (as rotaries burn alot) . Rotaries are not overly reliable, which is why i have seen quite a few guys with RX-7's out right replace the roatary with a small block V8. Unless you got money to burn, dont do it.

[s_13_steve]

+1 on motor swap

LS1 + RX7 = Teh Sex

[NSR_s30]

you must really really want a fast car. im not so sure you want an RX-7 unless you have a lot of money to keep it running. Dont get me wrong the RX-7 is a sweet car but you may end up spending alot of money replacing Apex seals and filling the engine with Oil (as rotaries burn alot) . Rotaries are not overly reliable, which is why i have seen quite a few guys with RX-7's out right replace the roatary with a small block V8. Unless you got money to burn, dont do it.

Rotaries aren't as bad as people make them out to be. It's usually the owner that neglects what the 13b needs. I've seen a lot of high horsepower 7's make the power w/o any problems all day long. To say they're unreliable is silly, as after taking any stock car and modifying it makes it more unreliable... IMO v8's don't belong in 7's. Reliable...I can think of one rotary car that is still running and still makes the power strong. 787B. Only Japanese car to ever win Le Mans.

[VMPhil]

i agree that some cars generally get a bad rap *COUGH QR! COugh* because they require more maintainance than others, and no car line is with out its problems, but i know 1 former RX-7 owner and 2 current Rx-8 owners who aren't very happy with the over all quality of the Rotary engines (both RX-8's are unmodded). From what i read the Apex seal issue comes from people not giving their car adequate time to warm up before driving it. however i has become clear to me that a rotary engine does require more maintaining than your average import and repairs are expensive as hell for the RX-7 and Rx-8. now dont get me started on Nissan quality of the QR......

my point is i dont think an RX-7 is the car of choice for a dude who is probably in college and is fairly new to the modding scene.

[NSR_s30]

I didn't want it to seem like I was going on a rant, it's just I'm a huge fan of 7's and rotarys and I'm always defending them. You did have a good point about him owning a 7 though.

[VMPhil]

werd, no offense taken. believe me i love RX-7's, i like the RX-8's but im a little critical of them, but rotary engines are a sweet concept. I wouldn't want to own one unless i had more money for to pay for maintenance, or were a little more mechanically inclined to do it myself.

theres a little heirarchy i have for tuners: this is in no way implying just because you own a modded civic makes you a beginner, i think from a modder stand point its a good place to start.

Beginner: Civic, 240sx, Corolla, Sentra etc.

Novice: Anything Acura, Infinity, and Lexus, 02-06SE-R (anything with a QR because of the Precat and butterfly screws)

Mid level: Most things stock turbo (Evo, WRX, MSP) doing after market turbo and anything VW

Advanced: anything with a rotary and anything DSM,

not meant to catagorize anyone but i classify myself as a novice and ive been on the modding scene since 99 so.......

[Twilight sentra tuner]

new here but there are many ways to make a sentra gxe perform better. 1. CAI, speaks for itself. 2. voltage stabilizer+ grounding kit, the vs stores extra voltage in itself to act as a backup for the battery and the grounding kit recovers any electricity that has been lost throughout the electrical system. this results in better audio quality, brighter headlights, and best of all, stronger spark. which means more ponies. 3. throttle bypass kit, engine coolant runs through ur throttle body and it is really hot. this makes ur intake charge hotter and less dense. by bypassing the throttle body ur intake charge will stay relatively cool all the way to the combustion chamber where it blows up better and dies. . 4. if u can't afford a turbo (me), try an electrical supercharger. they won the best new product award according to scc. i've got one and there is a noticeable difference. they don't put out much psi (2 at tops, more if u got deep pockets), but nonetheless its better than nothing. 5. a resistor. thats right. u can get them on ebay. people say stay away from them but they work. reason being is because ( as we all know) the 00' sentra gxe has an obd2 diagnostics system. obd2 does NOT accept chip swapping like an eprom. it rejects it. this chip does not act as a chip. instead, it acts as ur IAT sensor. it lies to ur ecu saying it is 32 degrees outside. the computer then puts more fuel in the cylinders. ur computer thinks its a sensor. loopholes are awesome. 6. since its really hard to a cat back exhaust, try axle back. works great for me. and headers if u want. just make sure u reflash ur ecu. let it know whats goin on. just some food for thought.............

[nametakennow]

The resistor trick is complete BS and you're losing horsepower. Tricking the ECU into thinking it's cooler means that it's dumping more fuel in than you need, making your mixture too rich, which reduces horsepower and gas mileage all in one. Take that out and the rest of what you're talking about is about right. The axle back does nothing but make noise. Even catbacks only provide a couple of horsepower because there's still restriction in the cats, midpipe, and header.

[VMPhil]

agreed on the resistor comment. if you trick the computer into dumping more fuel in thats not good. thats why people install things like Apexi's S-AFC. it leans out the mixture creating more power. more air= more power, Hence turbo, Forced Induction.

[Twilight sentra tuner]

think of ur air/fuel ratio. factory intakes as u know are extremely restrictive. by switching to an open element or CAI the air goes straight to the manifold and is not rerouted to a deadend. the engine gets more air this way. basically the CAI compensates by getting enough air for all the parts of fuel. and remember, this car comes from the factory burning lean. i have an autometer a/f ratio gauge and the chip makes the car burn mostly stoichiometric. ( however no car can sadly achieve perfect combustion)

[VMPhil]

here is an excellent thread talking about this on resistor mod b15sentra

http://www.b15sentra.net/forum...49206

so to Twilight sentra, some one in the above linked thread said it helped with OBD1 cars not OBD2.

[Twilight sentra tuner]

i know that. obd1 easily takes to chip swapping like an eprom. obd2 doesn't. obd2 do use their sensors to get info though. replace ur IAT (intake air temperature) sensor with a resistor. its really a sensor, not a chip. and besides if it doesnt take then what will u do when a real sensor burns out. ur car can't run right if a sensor is missing. and mine runs great with a good a/f ratio.

[nametakennow]

think of ur air/fuel ratio. factory intakes as u know are extremely restrictive. by switching to an open element or CAI the air goes straight to the manifold and is not rerouted to a deadend. the engine gets more air this way. basically the CAI compensates by getting enough air for all the parts of fuel. and remember, this car comes from the factory burning lean. i have an autometer a/f ratio gauge and the chip makes the car burn mostly stoichiometric. ( however no car can sadly achieve perfect combustion)

Your A/F gauge doesn't show diddly squat about your actual ratio. Get a wideband O2 sensor and tell me what the readings are then. I guarantee they're better without your resistor mod.

Furthermore, no car in the history of ever has been sent from the factory running lean. Lean conditions lead to detonation, and detonation destroys engines. No company would purposely create an engine such that it would detonate. They want you to buy new cars, sure, but not that much. The car probably comes from the factory with settings to make it run close to the optimal 14.7:1 ratio for gas efficiency and horsepower reasons, but definitely not any higher.

The resistor mod simply tells your computer that the air is colder than it is. The computer responds by dumping in more fuel. The fact that you have a CAI doesn't make the car magically run leaner, so having the resistor isn't a method of compensation. The engine knows how much air is coming in via the MAF. The CAI's lessened restriction, mostly from the change in material of the filter element, allows more air. The MAF reads the increased intake and tells the ECU that because more air is coming in, it needs a little more fuel to continue to hit the factory A/F target, so it's the ECU that compensates for the increased intake efficiency.

Welcome to NICO, by the way. Stick around and you'll find out about all sorts of other fallacies you may have heard. Feel free to post any questions you have or email me, but make sure that advice you give is based on what actually works.

[VMPhil]

were are not trying to contradict you just be d!ck or to insult you twilight

this is stuff that gets brought up all the time here and many other forums. If i had a nickel for every "resister mod" thread i wouldnt need a job.

we just post what we know. which is to say i am by no means the definitive expert in automotive modding but i know enough about how a car works to know that the resistor mod does little to nothing, atleast on current build cars.

PS: a wide band o2 sensor + Gauge is a must for telling the True a/f ratio. any A/F ratio gauge running on a stock sensor is just pretty lights.

[Twilight sentra tuner]

tell me this then. whats the point of the gauge.

second off, a car from the factory is either gonna burn rich or lean. its not going to be perfect. the factory mechanics tune the car to handle a slightly lean or slightly rich burn. and ur wrong a/b detonation. sure detonation can be bad, however this does not mean youll blow the motor. u'd be surprised at how many cars pass on the road that deal with detonation many times each day. stock at that straight from the factory. cars nowadays can handle detonation at multiple times for thousands of miles. ur car probably has detonation. u just don't notice it. not many people do.

thirdly, i know how the ecu and MAF work. a cars computer is not going to dump in more fuel just because of temperature alone. if its 32 degrees outside i know that the computer wll not have a same set amount of fuel spray for each rpm across the powerband. it will be weighed out for top efficiency in conjuction with the MAF based on how much air enters the manifold. the cars ecu isnt that stupid. give it some credit. it wont screw itself up because of a resistor. be realistic.

and thanks for the welcome. thats cool u did that. if i need anything i'll try to find u. if u need something, i'll help u out to the best of my knowledge.

[Twilight sentra tuner]

dont worry its cool. thats what a forums about. thanks though for some input. i just know the mod works(for me at least). i'm not trying to dis anyone either. i'm just speakin from experience with it. as we all do. we are entitled to our opinion.

[nametakennow]

The gauge is for show, honestly. Gauges like that, at best, give you a general idea. Are there any numbers? Telling you it's stoich-ish doesn't say much. What is the numerical cutoff for when it says stoich, rich, or lean?

I never said the car is perfect from the factory. I said it's close to the optimal ratio and is always tuned to be on the rich side for the safety of the engine.

Detonation, over time, will kill the engine. Period. Sure, it may take awhile if it's light, but the extra wear and tear isn't something a company would purposely incur. My car was turbo and tuned very poorly for awhile because the shop that I went to for help didn't think. There was plenty of detonation at certain rpms and boost levels, but I minimized running like that and the engine is now fine. If I'd let it continue, it'd have killed it. I guarantee that, from the factory, the number of times there's detonation in a piston is minute.

The computer takes in all sorts of inputs, yes, but the resistor trick, as per all the ebay scammers that sell it, is entirely based on the idea that the ECU will be tricked into thinking the air is colder and up the fuel a bit. It will do this across the powerband based on rpm, MAF reading, etc. and the faulty IAT reading.

If the trick doesn't really do anything, why did you bother? If your ECU has to compensate for you fiddling to run properly, why bother? Let the sensors do their job and, oddly enough, you'll get the most horsepower Nissan was willing to let you have.

If you want "free" power, up the timing a couple degrees, but you'll need higher grade fuel. That's an honest and proven way.

[Twilight sentra tuner]

the whole subject seems a little testy. in reality, its just a resistor. but anyways some of the other mods i mentioned earlier do tend to show a gain. there all cheap too. hell you could make ur own grounding kit with some quality speaker wire. but check out these superchargers. to be honest, i found it hard to believe but i was curious. there is a difference. erams the leading company for them. and they work. got any other mods to improve the performance of the sentra for poor people????

[Twilight sentra tuner]

timings a good idea btw

[needtobefaster]

ok one of the main problems in my 1.8s is that my cold air is f**king with my o2 senser.

the thing is that the computer is reading the air intake 60 times a sec and adjusts, but when i turn the car for a start back up it does not reset the injectures it just keeps dumping more fule in the engine. how can i fix it.

do you think that a chip will be any good for my car or bad

[NSR_s30]

timings a good idea btw

If it were possible to time the QG...but like the newer ones (mine) included, it's a distributer-less ignition system and just has coil packs...

ok one of the main problems in my 1.8s is that my cold air is f**king with my o2 senser.

the thing is that the computer is reading the air intake 60 times a sec and adjusts, but when i turn the car for a start back up it does not reset the injectures it just keeps dumping more fule in the engine. how can i fix it.

do you think that a chip will be any good for my car or bad

What chip are you talking about? I have a CAI and have no problems with my car....?

[nametakennow]

A CAI would not cause that. I take it that on warm starts it stutters or dies? Could be a couple of things. First and foremost, make sure that the fuel pump recall is done if you're affected. Call a dealer with your VIN in hand to find out.

The "chip" they're talking about is the resistor mod, proven BS.

I forgot that the QG is coil-pack'd. That sucks.

[NSR_s30]

Also your ecm might be going bad. It was a problem with a bunch of earlier B15's 00-01.

Resister mod is straight bs, although the grounding kit does seem like a good idea. I don't know if you'd see much in a gain of power.

Yeah the QG is definitely coilpacked, cause believe me I'd be uping the timing if I could. We did it on my brothers SR in his SE. Definitely noticeable...

Just stick to basic bolt-ons and see how they feel and go from there. I have Intake, exhaust and suspension. Car seems more peppy then stock. Then again it all comes down to the point that the QG was never made to be a performance engine...

[Twilight sentra tuner]

i've got to agree with nametakennow. ur CAI shouldn't be causing problems. what exactly are its symptoms? coughing or hesitation???

[nametakennow]

Yeah, what year? I don't see it earlier in the thread. If it's an 00-01, run the VIN by the dealer for the ECU recall. That'd explain your symptoms pretty well. Make sure that if they tell you that you have to pay for it because of any mods, you tell them you'll be talking to corporate.

[VMPhil]

got any other mods to improve the performance of the sentra for poor people????

ah but thats the eternal stuggle. you gotta pay to play. Id have more mods than I/H/E Nismo 17"s right now if i could trust me. Mods arent cheap. cheapest way to improve speed? make your car lose weight. or you..(im trying to shed a few pounds myself)

[Twilight sentra tuner]

true. weight reduction does play best. u could remove ur a/c compressor and that sheds about 70 pounds i think. ur cruise control weighs a/b ten so ditch that too. cool thing a/b this is that some will remove them for free.

[Twilight sentra tuner]

a/b the grounding kit. horsepower gain isn't that much. anywhere from 5-8 on a good day but nonetheless its better than nothing. put one in conjuction with voltage stabilizer. thats what i did. works great with no malfunctions.

[needtobefaster]

ok heres the thing.

most days it take 3 trys to start the car. the 1st time the car just turns over and does not fire. 2nd time the car sputers and dies. the 3rd time the car starts.

i dont have any chips for it yet are they werth the money?

i have i/e i just nned the headers and maby a chip to be alittle more competitive. can any one tell me where to get them.

[needtobefaster]

what does CAI an QG stand for