that's what i heard bro.. was hoping for more of an intial setup that i could not fully run off of, but know that that setup fits and i only have to worry about fine tuning it.

so... a 240 crossmember.. and a 350 w/ a Nova II will fit after makin some mounts... yeah?

Matified, be nice for you to go Forced Induction so you can mess with the Air/Fuel lil more.

anyone else catch the youtube flicks of Team Polizia in the Gumball races driving down the train tracks in europe and laughing their azzes off?

Quote, originally posted by dblanehopr »

so... a 240 crossmember.. and a 350 w/ a Nova II will fit after makin some mounts... yeah? .

i have a question about that, Has anyone seen this done? i have heard the chevy II stuff but never seen it used on a car, everyone still ended up makeing a custom oil pan.

also one other thing to keep in mind is the stroke, 350 work's fine with chevy II stuff ( i.e. sump, and pan ) but when you stroke the motor (383) crank hit's the sump. so just another reason for me making my own

all the measurements you made for that pan was just made for the R33 crossmember then.. meh.. i'll just have to do it meself. ;] mize well.

tryin to remember... the slope of the engine should be 15 degrees right? i'll have to look that up again.

Not fabbing stuff vs drilling a hole FTMFW

Also, I didn't know you needed a new pan when you stroke the 350. That complicates the turbo 383 S14 I'd love to someday. Perhaps a simple high compression 383 will be easier...

WD

Truth is Treason in the Kingdom of Lies - Ron Paul

in a normal application the stock 350 stuff works fine, but in a 240sx with front sump you run into problems. The stroke is bigger on a 383, meaning the crankshaft is bigger. with the chevy II sump assembly the rod cap bolts hit the oil pickup tube.

let me know what you think

Modified by matafied at 3:58 AM 3/17/2009

Modified by matafied at 3:59 AM 3/17/2009

Modified by matafied at 4:01 AM 3/17/2009

thanks, the heads are cheaper pro comps with manley ss valves and comp cam springs, MLS head gaskets and ARP Head bolts

Quote, originally posted by 450SX! »

guess the 64cc heads me no longer going turbo?

haha yea well, i still want boost even if its only 7 pounds, water injection if needed

Quote, originally posted by 450SX! »

did you upgrade any of the bottom end of the motor? what kind of power you looking at, that intake should move lots of air.

yea bottom end is pretty stock it has been rebuilt and bored ( 355), not sure what this thing will put down or how long it will last.
i just wanted to get everything made and get my setup in stone for my 383 short block im working on

i just knew the tpi wouldnt flow enough for my 383

Just use some water/meth injection and e85. I'l bet at 9.0:1 with water/meth and e85 you'd still safely be able to run 18 psi... at least!!!

im anxious for updates.

I hope you do them often and frequently.

For Sale: Sr altenator 60... Greddy sr20 RAS 47

got my alt bracket, roller rokers and my valve covers in. Need a fuel regulator and ls1 throttle body and we will hear this thing fire up!! Also i have to drill the valve covers for breathers

Modified by matafied at 7:34 AM 3/23/2009

Water is free!!! Running a single nozzle will allow for another 4-5 psi easy. 10 psi with the standard BPU 350 is going to give you serious traction issues.

not sure yet, but i will look into it

Quote, originally posted by WDRacing »

Water is free!!! Running a single nozzle will allow for another 4-5 psi easy. 10 psi with the standard BPU 350 is going to give you serious traction issues.

hahah i know, i cant wait LOL

Summit sells the kits for $67 dude. You'll need some type of crankcase evac, and the header mounted kits do a pretty decent job. That and they promote really good ring seal during WOT situations.

nice, just not sure how they would work on my setup. from what i read they dont work good with back presure.

thought about just a regular catch can setup??

Modified by matafied at 10:36 AM 3/23/2009

When you say catch can, do you mean a catch mounted between the intake vacuum source and PCV/check valve?

yea kinda what i had in mind

And use a double check/pcv valve. That way under boost you're not pressurizing the crankcase. Or a single one meant for high boost. I've been researching and reading up on crankcase stuff over the last 2-3 months. Free power and clean oil is always a bonus. So is not recirculating oil into the intake, which in your case will lesson an already octane hindered motor.

Granted, it does work better then nothing. But f you use this method, I'd also tap a vacuum source from the manifold so you have evac during off boost driving.

Another thing you can do is use a GM vacuum pump. They came on tons of vehicles, from cars to trucks. They can be had for like $20 from the JY. Easy to wire up and you're not pulling fumes into the intake tract at all. This combined with a header mounted setup would be the best bet IMO. OR, have the pump triggered via Hobbs switch for on boost and use manifold vacuum for off boost. Basically any combination of the above idea's...lol.

When I finally finish a project I'll do a couple different write-ups on the different things and what works best. But you'll be done way before I will. So you're the guinea pig

....im an sr person its all I know.

His motor has none of the above. So we're discussing the best methods for making your own system. None of these steps are hard or expensive to do. Infact some of the idea's we're talking about will perform far better then the stock setup on the SR.

WD

WD

yea thats what this is for 50mm