You are a bigger man than I. I wouldn't have kept with it this long.

If all the MS settings are okay and the board itself is okay and tested out fine on the stim.... Something has got to be wrong somewhere in the car.

I would double and triple check the shielding, power and both sensor returns on the distributor. Just to make sure everything there is good.

Slim chance, but it might be possible that the sensor got damaged if you accidentally connected wiring wrong or something. but idk....

Quote, originally posted by spooled240 »

a lot of things feel the same as before, the tranny kinda whines but not as loud as my other one...maybe that's normal?

And what you said earlier.

Quote, originally posted by 2projects2many »

OK, so I have hooked up the shield wire to ground, so I have the shield wire going to ground & the smaller black wire going to ground. I have 12v going in on blk/wht wire and another 12v (with resistor) going to the white wire going to pin 24 on ms.

That little black wire should be wrapped on the end and not connected to ANYTHING! Grounding it when it shouldn't be might be screwing with the signal.

Actually 480, I had both grounded at one point or another- are you saying that you believe the smaller wire would be the second ring output? To me that would seem odd if the the main signal is larger. I don't know, but right now my voltage is down to about 10- so I'm charging the battery because besides that being just to low and barely cranking the engine- I think that may be the problem because the the dizzy isn't getting 12 vt or better and the signal is too weak.

Horsepower (hp) = Torque (ft-lbs) x RPM / 5252

Also with as cheap as you can score a second s13 dizzy you should have a second one to make sure that your problem isnt just simply a damaged CAS.

EDIT - Zig man, its so much easier, cleaner, more reliable to just rewire your whole engine bay. You condense what was originally 2 pounds of wire down to 10-15 strands that YOU know how they were run, how to trace them if there ever is a problem.

I'm going to let it charge overnight, and tomorrow, I'll remove the little wire from ground, and connect the large one right beside the white wire, and verify my 12vt input again on the blk/wht and the see what I get. I'm also going to see if I can find anything on testing the pickup sensor to check and see if it I may have fried it.

That's what I did Zig, just cut the stock ecu harness connector off and tapped everything there. Where did you mount your ms? I'm not sure if I can squeeze all this into the factory ecu location. The glovebox was my initial thought, but after cutting a hole in that for the wiring, it would bind when opening and closing.

^ i'll have to take some pics tomorrow, i just did that over the weekend. Clean as hell. I'll also show you how much factory stuff came out.

2projects,
The ground from the CAS is black with like silver dashes down it, this wire actually is NOT with the normal CAS wiring. It ties into a shared ground with the TPS and the CLT.
The power is black with a solid white line, white line is the signal and the other small black don't connect.

If you cut and taped everything from the factory ECU i would verify that all the grounds are properly regrounded. But as was mentioned checking or swapping the CAS would probably be good.

Quote, originally posted by ZiG »

Actually the glove box works perfect if you leave a bit of slack in the wire and make sure you cut a big hole in the side.

I did cut a hole- just not that big. I have the slack- so I'll probably go back with that. Thanks for the suggestion.

What? Where did you get that from man..

Anyone with the balls to try MS and the skills to get it running is alright in my book. All i ever said was that i felt like you should have gone with MS2 i believe. I dont even think i said your setup was probably acquired through food stamp trades..

I mounted the case with zip ties up to the blower motor on the far left hand side of the passengers foot well. It was a pretty ideal spot, you could easily get to the com port and it was out of the way.

Now dat some funny $hit!

Make sure you have that right first.

So, your saying that you were able to get a cranking signal, then you changed your setup and now you cant get one.. It sounds like you might have had it right, then you messed it up. Are you sure your battery was fully charged when you got your 98 cranking rpms?

http://www.megamanual.com/index.html

This is how everyone else gets theirs to work. It gives you pretty much everything you need to know. Anything thats not KA specific has already been gone over and explained on this forum. You can also join the forum specifically for Megasquirt that has quite a few members.

http://www.msefi.com/index.php

Also, have you gone through and followed every procedure in the two part section of the mega manual for setup and tuning?

It sounds like you rotated your dizzy to far. Rotate it back the way you had it and you will probably pick a signal back up. You need to set your crank angle, so the MS knows where the engine is on its firing sequence.

480sx, I read over 2-3x, but I can't say that I have it memorized. Additionally, regardless of how I rotate the distributor- there's always should be a signal- rotating it simply tells the computer when the engine is in position to send an ignition charge (thus explains "ignition timing") I'm not new to cars, nor their systems- just new to controllable fuel inj/ignition. I appreciate the ideas and info you've given. What confuses me is that I change out a diode and nothing- I short said diode out and than it works. I get out to recheck timing (adjust distributor) to see if I can get the spark on time & than no signal. There's either a problem on the board, bad connection in the pins/wiring, or possibly a bad distributor. I get another ordered for this weekend, and check it out.

Still it makes sense to try put everything back the way you had it when you picked up a cas signal and try again.

Man can you just start another thread with a list of your problems so we can get this clutter out of this thread? This was meant to be a thread so people who had no idea about MS could come and read our stories, not listen to us try to trouble shoot random problems.

http://www.msextra.com/manuals...o.GIF

This was posted in the very first post in this thread, but the guys' car was a 91-94, and I know things changed in that generation a bit.

My god... I haven't posted in like 4 months... good to be back!

All input is appreciated by myself and of course whoever else squirts a SOHC.

sil80

So, if it's to be hooked up without the resistor/transistor circuit, it's just having the IGN OUT wire go straight to the tach? I'm kinda afraid to fry the tach if the signal's too strong without resistors...

sil80

sil80

sil80

So I'll take my positive coil wire and splice it off to the tach, but put in the resistor/transistor circuit in order for the tach to read correctly?

Or should I get the tach signal from another source, such as one of the wires that goes to the MSII? Such as pin 24 or pin 36?

sil80

Just wire it up exactly as I've shown and it'll be fine. You have to go into megatune and fine the 'tacho output pin' setting and look at it. It will say blah blah js0, blah blah make sure this pin isn't already in use, etc. Then enable it. Then open the case and find JS0 (it's on the bottom of the PCB). Now solder a wire from that spot to an unused pin on the plug for the harness. Since I bought the premade pigtail, I just soldered the wire to one of the iacv stepper motor wires since it's not in use. Then you connect that wire to the transistor circuit and to the wire leading to the tach, which you can just cut off the stock ecu plug and then it's right there.

I could technically splice off the resistor circuit off of the Negative Coil terminal and into the stock tachometer, right?
Your suggestion was mostly just so that I keep everything wired from the MS, correct?

sil80

sil80

Oh, of course if you do it this way, and use a rev limiter or launch control, etc, your tach will go nucking futs whenever the limiter engages.

Seriously, I really think you should just wire it up the proper way, with the dedicated pin on the ms and the transistor circuit.