So I have been asked to document my work in getting my megasquirted '93 KADET working.
This is an account of my recent efforts to get a Megasquirt full standalone ECU powering my KA-T. I will try my very best to make sure it is complete and accurate, but you should not blindly follow it as a comprehensive step-by-step guide.
I bought a fully assembled Megasquirt 1 version 3.0 from Matt at DIYautotune.com. I highly recommend buying from him. He has experience with squirting 240s, and was ALWAYS a great help to me as I had various troubles along the way. Some slight modifications need to be made to his fully assembled boards. You can pay an extra $20 for him to do it. See this article here, for more info on that:
http://www.diyautotune.com/tec...x.htm
I suggest you read that all the way through, as it will get you well on your way. THE INFORMATION I AM PROVIDING HERE IS MEANT AS A SUPPLEMENT TO THE INFORMATION PROVIDED IN THAT ARTICLE.
Now, on to the wiring. I suggest you get yourself a copy of the FSM and look at the foldout section.
For wiring up the idle control valve:
For idle control I am using the stock a/c FICD valve, and it seems to work just fine. You need to locate the wire going from it to the ECU. It is green with a blue stripe and it goes to pin 45. You need to connect that to a relay, and then connect the relay to ground. Ground it far, far away from everything else. Then give the + coil side of the relay 12v and connect the -ve coil side to the Fidle pin on the megasquirt. Now go to your engine harness. The plug you want is one of the ones on the front of the engine, specifically the one that is ziptied to the valvecover breather line. You can verify that you have the right one by checking where the wires go. If they go under the manifold, to the valves on the back, you have the right one. Splice the brown wire in with the blue/green wire (only the end leading to the valve). This will provide the valve with constant power when the key is on.
Guess what, the stock ecu controls the tach!
That's right folks. If you want to use your stock tach you need to wire up a little circuit. See this picture taken from the MS manual:
http://www.msextra.com/manuals...o.GIF
Where it has the 1-10k resistor, I used a 1200 ohm one and it worked for me. I also used a different transistor (one I had laying around) so it might be slightly different for others.
Ignition:
For some reason the stock coil and transistor don't seem to want to work with MS. I ended up using a MSD blaster SS coil. Note that since the VB921 in MS has current limiting capabilities, you won't need a ballast resistor. MSD states that the optimal dwell time for this coil is 3.50 ms.
Using the stock temperature sensor:
You can easily use the stock sensor, but you need to calibrate MS to read it with Easytherm. Search it up and follow their instructions. Or, if you don't/can't remove it and test it, use these numbers (what I got with mine):
-4 F 5190 ohm86 F 480 ohm210 F 207 ohm
The SCV system:
If you haven't removed those stupid butterflies from the intake manifold, you need to ground the solenoid that controls them. Grey wire, pin 25.
I think that about covers it. Do all of the stuff in that article from DIYautotune.com, then do what I have said, and you should be well on your way.
I will add more information as I go along/think of it.
Now comes the tuning. Have fun.
Modified by ZiG at 7:08 PM 9/14/2007