Once i can get it to hold a steady RPM, or idle properly i'll bust out the timing light on it.

I was gonna just jam the IAT up the hole where the resonator on the intake plugged in, but i got lazy and wanted to see if the car would start. That might be part of my problem because without the sensor attached it's accounting for a 170* intake temp, while the actual temp was about 55. I'll put it in tomorrow and see if it makes a difference.

Quote, originally posted by spooled240 »

a lot of things feel the same as before, the tranny kinda whines but not as loud as my other one...maybe that's normal?

the thermal valve will stay open until it has had power through it long enough to shut. so once it's warm, it would die. It heats up pretty quick too. Leave it unhooked to stay open longer.

My landlord bitched at me for working on the car so much in the parkade, so i have to take it easy for a while. As a result, I still havent wired my iacv up. Alls I have to do is splice in the diode and connect the wire to the lead coming off the ms, so maybe I'll go do it in the middle of the night.

Horsepower (hp) = Torque (ft-lbs) x RPM / 5252

The fast idle thermo valve works great, car starts up and idles around 1150~1200 after a couple minutes valve shuts off and idle drops to ~800.
If it's dry enough tomorrow, i'll put the timing light on it and make sure my trigger angle is set right.

at the moment idle AFR is 13~13.5:1 so i'll have to screw with that some to get the idle straightened out before i move onto the other bins.

Thanks

Wheres your MSQ, id like to look it over and see if mines different.

uhh i'll have to find hosting again..

Quote, originally posted by MS Forums »

the simple false trigger prevention method will not allow my engine to start. It just kicked back and would never quite catch. I put my poor starter through a beating!
I ended up configuring the Advanced false trigger prevention time mask setting to 10-30%. The defualt 50% time mask would also not allow my engine to start.

Jsmcortina wrote "I need to look into this - the "simple" mode was supposed to be a copy of the built-in settings on all MS1 variants, that seems to work for everyone. I must have made an error somewhere."

There is some info on Advanced trigger options. simple mode does not allow my Nissan CAS equipped vehicle to start. I do believe others had problems with simple mode aswell.

Only MS2 has the false trigger setting so that would explain why people aren't running into it with ms1. that and megatune defaults the false trigger to simple. Try this out and let us know if it works!! if that's the solution i should be all set to install my MS2 next weekend.

Trigger angle is not working for me. I can't change it to adjust the timing... so i've actually had to subtract from across my timing table to force the timing to where it should be. i'd read something that said that could be caused by the spark output being set wrong.... so i set mine to spark output going low(normal)...DO NOT TRY THIS!!!!

I was worried it wasn't right so i kept a finger on the vb921 and as soon as i felt it getting warm i shut the car off.. but i managed to fry my blaster SS.
so now it's gonna be a couple of days before i can get another one.

then maybe i'll just load up a beta firmware and see if the trigger angle works.

well i'd read on the msefi forums where someone had it set wrong and that was the cause so that's why i tried it atleast a friend of mine had a spare coil i could use.

480, when i'd first started my car it was set at 78. But 20* at idle was really about *43. My lungs are starting to clear up so i screwed around with it for much longer today, and found with the trigger angle around 105(? i think) that my timing would match.

It almost seems that i have to cycle the power to megasquirt BEFORE the trigger angle changes.... which kinda negates the whole trigger wizard... exactly like my problem has been.

Oh and instead of subtracting from your whole table, I suggest you just change the trim angle number, which has the same net effect.

I've tried that. Timing is dead on with the trigger angle set to 0 then. But the car won't start because it tries sparking WAY to early.

Quote, originally posted by ZiG »

Oh and instead of subtracting from your whole table, I suggest you just change the trim angle number, which has the same net effect.

that's what i finally got working last night. I had a friend who came over and helped me for awhile when he dropped of his spare coil. Previously I've been on my own, which kinda makes checking the timing while tweaking stuff very difficult to do.

At the end of last night we had the timing dead on, and the idle is going fine. Car is tuned so i can rev up to 4k and everything looks fine. So i'm gonna take it for a datalog drive and just have logviewer revise my VE tables as it sees fit.

Car starts and runs fine now. I'm probably going to take it for a test drive today.

Pretty much needs some leaning across the board. Also i drove it to my friends house and let it cool down before i drove home... and realized i really need some kind of controlled fast idle for warmup. The thermo valve just isn't cutting it.

I'm in his driveway revving the engine till it warms up... kinda pathetic.

Hey man Good job on the whole thing. You 480 and zig have done well to even go the mega squirt route, because there is so little support for 240's. I have been meaning to install a MS II, but i never have the time. The biggest thing is I can't afford to be without a car. It is good to see that when I do start I will have a few people to ask ?s

What about startups? I could never get past the cold start up kick backs. Were you able to rotate your dizzy to a less advanced position, and set your trigger angle up enough to eliminate that problem? Whats your trigger angle set at i guess would answer my question too..

This works fine for me as far as a good starting spark, and my timing is dead on once the car is started.

Ok, you say 1/4 watt..

Quote, originally posted by 2projects2many »

I wired 12v to the b/w wire, have a 1/4w resistor coming from another 12v source to the white wire going to pin 24, and than I have a black wire going to ground.

but what's the resistance? Is it 1k? Did you make sure with a multimeter? It doesnt have to be exactly 1k, but fairly close..

PS. is the shield the negative wire that needs to go to ground, or the other blk wire?

Have you checked your MS with a stimulator? That might be worth doing.

Kinda simply, but did you make sure you changed the tach input setting in megasquirt?

Should be set on basic trigger, Input capture set to falling edge. It should be piccking some kind of signal up.

i'm not really familiar with ms1 extra. I'll look over the megamanual and see if i can find anything to help you though.

Alright here's what some searching found.

Quote, originally posted by DIYAUTOTUNE »

Using the MS-I PCBv3 with MSnS-E firmware * This is assuming you are starting with an ECU built up like I build my assembled MS130-C MegaSquirt-I PCB3.0 units. If you are building your unit up from a kit you can implement these changes during assembly. * Flash ECU with MSnS-E version 029v or later. (How? Click Here.) (Or Here) * Jumper IGBTOUT to IGN to send to IGBT ignition coil driver signal out of pin 36 on the DB37. * Cut out C12 and C30. (Only needed when triggering from the - terminal of the coil, which you are not) * Remove D1 and jumper it, or just install a jumper wire across it's leads. (Only needed when triggering from the - terminal of the coil, which you are not) * Cut out R57 if fitted (this won't be there on my units though). * Get a 330 ohm 1/4w resistor and cut the leads down to about 1/2" at each end. Maybe a bit less. * Tin each end of the resistor with a bit of solder. * Cut a 5" piece of hookup wire (22ga is fine) and strip just a 1/8" or so. Tin the stripped wire with solder. * Melt the tinned wire tip to one end of the tinned 330 ohm resistor tip and let it cool. * Heatshrink wrap this wire/resistor assembly. * Use this wire/resistor combo to jumper the 'top' (top as in when you facing the silkscreen side of the PCB, with the text so that you can read it normally) lead of R26 to IGBTIN on the opposite side of the PCB.

So did you do this already? because that would definitely screw up trying to get a distributor reading.

Other thing i can find is this picture of the ignition settings. I would think you need to turn distributor on, turn all the other top code settings off. then set whatever pin you've got wired for the spark output as spark output A.

Just make sure prior to setting this that you set spark output to inverted. i had it set wrong and accidentally burnt out a blaster coil last year.

Single Coil Direct Drive Output for a V3.0 PCB

These instructions are only suitable for single and twin spark outputs, for more than 2 sparks see the mutiple output section

V3.0 PCB ONLY

Very Important: Set Spark Out Inverted = YES and set the Dwell to around 6.0mS for cranking 3.5mS for Running and 0.1mS for the Minimum Time as a starting point! Also set LED17 as SparkA output in Codebase and Output Functions!! Read the Software manual for more info!!

c12,c30 removed
jumpered optin to tachselect
jumpered tsel to optout
installed 1k resistor from r26 to igbin
r57 not installed
had D1 removed and jumpered.

What I hadn't done:

Jumpered xg1 to xg2

The ms test good on stim, but still no rpm signal on car??

Anymore ideas guys?

key on not cranking = .386 vt
cranking = .386- 1.4 vt (fluctuating)

Now I'm confused- the fluctuation in the volts tells me a signal is coming to the ms, yet when in megatune- it shows no signal.

Like I said above- with stim- it shows rpms- so that makes me think that I have the board right, yet no signal.