I'll try to explain as best as I can. It was my first time.

Well on my car there is 2 screws to the right and left under the steering wheel. Remove them and pull from the bottom first. It was alittle tricky to pull up but if you pull on the left side up and out, you'll see there are 4 little tabs at the top of the panel that kinda snap in.( or you can lower your steering wheel for ease of removel) Be gentle so you don't break them. There will be 2 wire harnesses you will need to pull out to remove it completely. They have tabs on them that you have to squeeze to remove them. Then on your dimmer switch there are 2 (possibly 3, mine might have been missing one.) more screws that hold the switch to the panel, you have to remove them to get the dimmer out and apart. The black back box comes off easily using a small flathead screw driver.( There are little tabs on each side that need to be pride apart. You'll see the roller tabs and the circuit board from there. Pull the roller out and bend the 2 tabs out towards the circuit board to make a solid contact once its put back in. I also did this to the pins in the wire harness end. (just slightly as not to break them or bend them too much) I sprayed them with the contact cleaner an let dry, then i reassembled it and it was good. You probably won't need the cleaner but I'm anal with this stuff.
I can get pics if you need them also. I also take notes when taking things apart so when I'm reassembling them I have a backup in case I forget something. Hope this helps.

Transmission Self Diagnostics
using AT light below your temperature gauge on the dash
1-Warm up engine
2- Shut off car and turn ignition switch to ACC position
3-Wait 5 seconds
4-Move shifter to D
5-Turn ignition switch on do not start

AT check light should come on for about 2 seconds

6-Move shifter to 3
7- step on gas fully and release
8-Move shifter to 2
9-Move shifter to 1
10-step on gas fully and release

The At Check light should start flashing 11 flashes a
slight pause and start over again. All flashes should
be the same length, any flash that is longer indicates a
trouble the following list is what the trouble circuit or part is.

A longer flash indicates

1st Flash Revolution sensor
2nd flash Speed sensor
3rd flash Throttle position sensor
4th Shift solenoid valve a
5th Shift solenoid valve b
6th overrun clutch solenoid
7th tourqe converter clutch solenoid
8th fluid temp sensor
9th engine speed signal
10th turbine revolution sensor
11th pressure solenoid valve

HICAS Diagnostic:

Turbos come standard with High Capacity Actively Controlled Suspension, a fancy way to say 4 wheel steering. There's a visual diagnostic mode to check for problems in the HICAS functions. The 90-93 TTs have hydrolic HICAS running off the power steering pump, where '94+ utilizes electric actuators to handle the rear steering chores. Their codes are a little different, but the procedure is the same. It might required a few tries to make it work. Be persistant!
Procedure:

1. Ignition switch 'off' manual tranny in neutral or A/T in 'P'

2. Start the engine

3. Within 10 seconds after turning the key to 'ON', start the engine, turn steering wheel from left to right 20 degrees from neutral 5 times or more times & pump the brakes 5 times. Then press the brake pedal again to enter the test mode.

4. Turning the steering wheel left or right past 20 degrees from neutral will cause the rear wheels to turn slightly (~1 degree) (1.).

5. Drive the car forward 15 feet under 9mph to enter the full diagnostic mode.

6. The HICAS dash light will flash a code indicating any problems. Long flash is first digit, short flash is 2nd digit.

7. Diagnostic mode is exited when: ignition is turned off, vehicle speed exceeds 9mph, or diagnostic has operated for 5 minutes.

HICAS light codes for '93:

1. HICAS solenoid R.H.
2. HICAS solenoid L.H.
3. Cut-off valve
4. Power Steering solenoid
5. Vehicle Speed sensor
6. Steering angle sensor
7. Steering Neutral positon sensor
8. A/T: Parking Brake Sensor M/T: Clutch sensor
9. A/T: Inhibitor sensor M/T: Neutral sensor

HICAS light codes for '94:

11. HICAS control unit
12. HICAS motor power supply not present
13. HICAS motor output not present
21. Vehicle speed signal not present
22. Steering angle sensor angle signal not present
23. Steering angle sensor neutral not present
24. Rear main sensor input not present
25. Rear sub sensor input not present
31. Parking brake sensor input not present
32. Inhibitor switch (A/T) or nuetral switch (M/T) input not present
33. Engine speed signal not present

You do not need to remove the radiator hoses, all the belts / screws are accessible from underneath the car. I've replaced all three belts just be loseening up the bolts w/o any other removal of parts on my 1994 J30

Where is this located and how do it replace it.....My A/T light flashs 11 times, its benn doing it for years....I assume replacing pressure solenoid valve wll correct it...The transmission shift funny from time to time but not bad.

Thanks

It's starightforward. Any competent mechanic should be able to do it.

is there anyway u could give me a step by step? because to be honest i dont even know where to start. any info or advise would be greatly appreciated.

Quote, originally posted by QCJ30 »

I DID IT! I DID IT! I CHANGED MY OWN PLUGS! THANK GOD! I DIDN'T MESS UP MY BABY! You guys are such a help, I really appreciate it. THANK YOU ALL!

Congrats!!!

Instructions prvided by J30inthe sun

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/J30/1994_J30/ec.pdf
Page 6 shows the location.

You need a spray can of Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner. CRC makes one.
http://www.crcindustries.com/h...05110

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/198122

Contains various years.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/J30/

Note: if i mash the pedal it will rev to about 4500 rpm's then take out like a bat out of hell but that kills the gas mileage...somethings wrong!

If you are having problems with the acctuator (sp?) and your driver side front door locking, you might want to try this:
Take a small cro-bar and use it to GENTLY pry open WHILE using the key (most likely the master key) to unlock the door. My family's J30 front driver side door was out of alignment and this worked. Be sure to use a cloth to reduce scratching paint. After you are able to open the door, you should lubricate the door hinges, locks, etc. REMEMBER to be gentle and patient.

Best of luck!