J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

General discussion forum for J30 and M30 owners!
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driverdriver
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Postby driverdriver » Wed Jul 08, 2009 4:46 am

from J30diy

If you are having problems with the acctuator (sp?) and your driver side front door locking, you might want to try this:Take a small cro-bar and use it to GENTLY pry open WHILE using the key (most likely the master key) to unlock the door. My family's J30 front driver side door was out of alignment and this worked. Be sure to use a cloth to reduce scratching paint. After you are able to open the door, you should lubricate the door hinges, locks, etc. REMEMBER to be gentle and patient.

Best of luck!


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lovej30
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

Postby lovej30 » Wed Nov 04, 2009 1:14 pm

Since I've had my J30 (9 months), the radio hasn't worked. It won't turn on at all, and the antenna has never popped up. Could it be a fuse? Every now and then I'll hear a speaker kinda pop, but the radio won't turn on. I really miss music, so any help would be great. Thanks! -K

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driverdriver
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Postby driverdriver » Wed Nov 04, 2009 3:48 pm

The factory stereo/head unit was a weak point on the J. Mine was replaced 8 years ago with a factory reman. If its not a fuse, then its the actual head unit

BJLUBXO
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work (hpedolzky)

Postby BJLUBXO » Tue Nov 24, 2009 2:49 pm

Maybe you can help, I know I can disconnect the headlight relay, but I don't see how I can reconnect it? My cable is too short to pull out far enough to connect.How did you get it reconnected??Thanks

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driverdriver
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work (BJLUBXO)

Postby driverdriver » Sat Nov 28, 2009 5:19 pm

Was your car originally equipped with daytime running lights?

BJLUBXO
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work (driverdriver)

Postby BJLUBXO » Sat Nov 28, 2009 5:36 pm

My 1995 J30 California car did not have daytime running lights.

Lights only on by switch.

johnofbham
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

Postby johnofbham » Fri May 28, 2010 9:41 am

What are the steps for power steering pump replacement and could it be a hose instead?
I have moderate skills and less patience due to time constraints but not afraid to get dirty if it is something I can repair in a few hours. Please respond!

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Amadauss1
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work PCV valves

Postby Amadauss1 » Wed Jun 02, 2010 8:48 pm

On my J30 1997 have two, one on either side that screw directly into the plenum. I read in this thread how to change them and it seemed the direction made it sound somewhat easy. I have to comment on my experience. It was very difficult to do this and struggled a great deal taking off the hoses. I finally got the passenger side off after a great deal of struggling with it (its a bear putting it back on because of its thick size and not bending very well)and just cut off the driver side. Believe it or not found a very similar type hose at home depot to do the replacement. Also found what looks like an inhibitor in the hose to control the mixture which I put back in the new hose. Do not start this project without a 90 degree or at least 45 needle nose pliers. You need it to get to some of the hose clamps. Passenger side was easier then the drivers and with all the stuff in the way, had to disconnect whatever I could that would not cause any issue to get at these valves. And to get any type of rachet in that small opening, especially on the drivers side with the brake fluid container in the way was very time consuming. I had all types of adjustable wrenches and had to contort myself and the wrench to get it on the PCV after the hose was off to take the thing out. So just want to state, it can be done (next time will remove everything and do some replacement parts) but you need patience and the right tools.

NY_Pito_NY
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Re: Tune-Up Questions (elan)

Postby NY_Pito_NY » Tue Jul 06, 2010 7:52 pm

Yes I do need a work up on how to remove the alternator

NY_Pito_NY
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

Postby NY_Pito_NY » Sat Jul 10, 2010 5:15 pm

Thats it my j30 took a turn for the worse..now it doesnt veven start...now i def need to replace the alternator

Cool_J30
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Trans Drain & Fill on J30

Postby Cool_J30 » Mon Jul 19, 2010 2:27 pm

Thanks to colincliff2 for the most important part: ATF quantity.

This is only to change the trans sump fluid out (not a complete system fluid flush/refresh)

Optional: warm car up, but if you do, wait for cats to cool before proceding and be careful of hot fluid! -- I do all of my vehicles cold -- and if you feel like you have to comment on that, just do yours warm or hot...

Park on level ground, or with the front passenger side raised slightly (pan's drain plug is rear drivers side).

I rolled my J up on 2x6s to get clearance to get under the car and achieve the above (1 under each tire and 2 under front passenger tire) -- this is if you are on a pretty level surface...

you'll need: most important!!: a long neck funnel to put new fluid in the trans dip-stick tube (under hood passenger side -- look at manual if not sure where) Be Sure To Check That Your Funnel Fits In The Tube Before Proceding!
drain pan, latex gloves, clean rags or paper towels, 3/4" or 19mm socket (preferably 6 point) and ratchet, 2 - 2 1/2 qts Dexron III (or an equal to it in synthetic ATF).

Once more: make sure your funnel fits in the dang dipstick tube!

Slide under car with your ratchet set to counter-clockwise rotation and your handy drain pan -- have a rag with you. Look for the rectangular pan in middle/front of driver's seat area under car and just break lose the 19mm plug (to finger tight) that's at the rear drivers side corner of the pan. Be careful here, as the hex head on the plug is shallow and easy to strip the corners if you have the socket tilted at all.

Slide your drain pan under and unscrew the plug by hand. If you are just up on 2x6s like me, there's not much room so this is sort of done blind. Clean your hand that is now covered in ATF... :) Let it drain until just a drip every several seconds or so is coming out. Clean plug area and plug -- take a look at the plug gasket (rubber washer) for cracks, etc., otherwise it's reuseable for many times. Put plug in and tighten -- do not reef on your ratchet or your WILL strip the plug threads -- just make it's good and snug, like you'd tighten your oil drain plug. If you've never changed oil an a car, you shouldn't be doing this either! :nono:

Get all your stuff out from under the car and it's a good time to take a look at the old fluid -- I dip a corner of a white paper towel in it and look at the color and smell it as well. If it is a nice pinkish red color and smells sort of sweet (open a bottle of the new ATF and compare color and smell), You are in good shape and don't need to do this often.

If the color is reddish brown, brown or :eek: black and smells burnt at all... Well let's just hope it's the reddish brown at worst and proceed, if it's darker I suggest you get a full fluid replacement/flush done and get some religion...

Make sure your funnel is nice and clean and clean around the area of your trans dipstick (not just the dipstick itself) before you pull the dipstick out. Pull the dipstick, wipe it off and put it in a clean area on towels, etc. Stick your funnel in and hold it in place while you put in 2 qts of new fluid (thanks again colincliff2). If it's winter and/or you don't drive in hot or hilly areas, or a lot of stop and go, you can go up to 2 1/2 qts. But I'd start with 2 and check it and then add the extra fluid if you decide to -- the dipstick will read in the high area if you go all the way to 2 1/2 though. Take a peak under the car to make sure the plug isn't leaking.

Put your dip-stick back in (fully) and drop the hood and start the car. With the brakes on, run the trans shifter through each gear -- not all that necessary, but just in case to be sure the trans hydraulics are fully packed.

Take a short drive and check the fluid level per the manual (hot check) and add fluid if necessary.

If your old fluid was not quite red, maybe getting a bit on the brownish side, I'd do this drain and fill a number of times over the next couple thousand miles until the fluid is fresh looking/smelling. As a reference your total transmission system capacity from bone dry is 8.75 qts.

Good luck!!

sugarsugar11
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work (hpedolzky)

Postby sugarsugar11 » Mon Jul 26, 2010 1:35 pm

BJLUBXO wrote:Maybe you can help, I know I can disconnect the headlight relay, but I don't see how I can reconnect it? My cable is too short to pull out far enough to connect.How did you get it reconnected??Thanks
I had the same problem when I replaced mine. When you unhooked the relay from the plug-ins, you probably did not get the relay completely out. You nust have reached under the relay to get to the 2 plugs, and un-plug them.Re-connecting woulr be the same, pretty much, with your fingers/hands holding the relay and at the same time, while connecting to the socket.
Thanks.

SIDUDE
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

Postby SIDUDE » Wed Aug 11, 2010 10:49 am

I need to replace my struts, it is going to cost me a small fortune, I would like to tackle this myself, I have the tools, the rear is likely to be easier. Any advice on the front Struts? How challenging is it?

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driverdriver
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

Postby driverdriver » Thu Aug 26, 2010 7:24 am

Turn Signal/Hazzards won't blink?

Courtesy of Supersnake83:

Problem:

Today when driving home, I realized that my turn signals and hazard lights won't blink if I engage them. They will just stay lit. If hit the hazard button, the two lights will stay on but not blink. Similarly, if I engage the left or right turn signal, the light will come on but not blink. All bulbs are okay.

Solution:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp ... 2697226___


Okay, so the part above that I posted from advanced auto parts is the correct part and did solve my problem.

Now, for those who really want the meat of the solution. The proper name of the part/switch/relay is called a flasher unit (a.k.a. turn signal relay or hazard relay). I called the local advanced auto parts and asked if they knew where it went and sure enough, the place they mentioned, in the engine bay, was wrong. I posted up on their website asking for the location for my car (1993J) and the reply said the flasher unit is under the steering column on the right side.

So, I took off the housing underneath the steering column and sure enough, the part is there. It is very easy to replace and it takes only about 10 minutes to take off all of the screws, replace the switch and redo the screws.

Here is what the OEM part looks like: http://www.courtesyparts.com/25710-flas ... cPath=882&

The aftermarket that I posted above is missing two things (which aren't important for a quick fix like this): the housing around the 3 pins so the clip and be OEM secured and the grooves for the unit to attach to the metal housing underneath the steering column.

Sorry for not taking any pictures, but it was getting dark out and the mosquitoes was biting my like crazy.

I hope this helps for anyone in the future.

The OEM replacement (from Infiniti of Scottsdale) is 30.00. The universal from Courtesy parts is 60.00. I purchased the aftermarket above for 12.99 + tax. No the aftermarket does not attach to the metal housing or does the clip snaps in place, but who cares for an 18 year old car that is car that keeps nickel and diming me.

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driverdriver
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

Postby driverdriver » Fri Sep 03, 2010 9:04 pm


venus18812
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

Postby venus18812 » Mon Nov 29, 2010 11:43 pm

thanks for your posting

jlagesej30y32
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

Postby jlagesej30y32 » Mon Dec 13, 2010 12:01 pm

anyone have any do.it.yourself work on replaceing the oil pan or removing one to replace a leaking one?

seandraper
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1995 j30 sunroof seal

Postby seandraper » Thu Jun 09, 2011 3:14 pm

The seal is broken on my 95 j30 sunroof and I need a replacement seal. I have seen the sunroof seal/weatherstrip replacement threads to fix, but I am having trouble finding the seal itself for sale on the internet. Can anyone point me in the right direction to find this part? Thanks.

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driverdriver
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

Postby driverdriver » Thu Jun 09, 2011 6:33 pm

Try our sponsor infinitipartsusa.com.

thomasso51
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

Postby thomasso51 » Wed Oct 19, 2011 8:10 am

Folks - I have read how daunting and time-consuming work to the sunroof is... but... I am hoping for a simpler cure to a simpler problem. In the fully closed position my the rear of my sunroof is dropped down (from being level with the rest of the roof) by about 1/4". Is there an easy way to adjust the closure height without removing the headliner, etc, etc.? It's the last movement of the sunroof to close and it simply needs to be a bit higher in the rear.

Any accurate answer would be appreciated. ('94 J30 - really nice condition)

malinda
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

Postby malinda » Sat Oct 29, 2011 11:59 am

johnofbham wrote:What are the steps for power steering pump replacement and could it be a hose instead?
I have moderate skills and less patience due to time constraints but not afraid to get dirty if it is something I can repair in a few hours. Please respond!
i wonder if you got an answer or help with your p/s problem as my j30 also needs a p/s replacement

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driverdriver
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

Postby driverdriver » Tue Nov 08, 2011 6:18 pm

thomasso51 wrote:Folks - I have read how daunting and time-consuming work to the sunroof is... but... I am hoping for a simpler cure to a simpler problem. In the fully closed position my the rear of my sunroof is dropped down (from being level with the rest of the roof) by about 1/4". Is there an easy way to adjust the closure height without removing the headliner, etc, etc.? It's the last movement of the sunroof to close and it simply needs to be a bit higher in the rear.

Any accurate answer would be appreciated. ('94 J30 - really nice condition)
Sounds like your track has bend to it. You will have to remove the headliner to properly fix it. No way around it.

97infinitij30
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

Postby 97infinitij30 » Tue Jan 03, 2012 11:20 pm

hey guys i own a 97 j30 at times the car chokes and when i hit the gas pedal the idling goes up really slow and it seems i be wasting lots of gas when this happens but the car does not turn off or anything. please help thanks!!!!

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driverdriver
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

Postby driverdriver » Wed Jan 25, 2012 6:22 pm

97infinitij30 wrote:hey guys i own a 97 j30 at times the car chokes and when i hit the gas pedal the idling goes up really slow and it seems i be wasting lots of gas when this happens but the car does not turn off or anything. please help thanks!!!!

Are you using premium gas(octane 91)? On J's, premium gas is a requirement and not a recommendation.

Is there any rough vibration under load?

Bob3D
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

Postby Bob3D » Fri Mar 30, 2012 3:43 pm

Having trouble with removing 100w fuze under the hood of my j30. Just the other day my 93 j30 just quit working, no power to anything, no sounds whatsoever, so I was checking so other forums and found one that said to check the 100w fuze because everything passes thru it. The fuze looks fine but I couldn't remove it to check with my electrical tester. There is no tab on it to depress and it won't budge. What do I need to do just use brute force?

webfoot57
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

Postby webfoot57 » Thu Apr 12, 2012 11:35 am

Am needing help removing alternator 94 J30t. Have removed fan and radiator hoses to get to primary bolt holding alternator on, but it seems to have a couple
small 10mm bolts on the back side of the alternator that do not seem to be accessible. Please reply here or email: [email protected].
thanks,

TS

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nemo44
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

Postby nemo44 » Wed Jun 06, 2012 2:41 am

my dashboard light does not turn on.... can anybody help?? thanx

Zinkman
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

Postby Zinkman » Thu Jun 21, 2012 9:18 pm

nemo44 wrote:my dashboard light does not turn on.... can anybody help?? thanx
I had this problem with my J30 I bought the other day this is what i followed to fix it

http://www.justanswer.com/nissan-infini ... ating.html

beklear
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Re: Cheap original metal key replacement for 1993 J30T

Postby beklear » Sat Jul 07, 2012 8:34 am

Hello All,

Looking for part# key00-00151. Dealer cost way to high. Please contact me asap. 678-508-6688 / [email protected]

Thanks

EriCCirE
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Car: 1993 Infiniti J30

Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

Postby EriCCirE » Mon Aug 06, 2012 9:02 am

Bob3D wrote:Having trouble with removing 100w fuze under the hood of my j30. Just the other day my 93 j30 just quit working, no power to anything, no sounds whatsoever, so I was checking so other forums and found one that said to check the 100w fuze because everything passes thru it. The fuze looks fine but I couldn't remove it to check with my electrical tester. There is no tab on it to depress and it won't budge. What do I need to do just use brute force?

The 100 amp fuse is bolted in. You need to remove plastic around the bottom and you can either slip a socket or Phillips in there ( 2 screws). Do not try brute force. You will destroy your fuse. I learned the hard way.


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