This is an easy maintainence job which can be performed alone or with a buddy to keep you company.
Difficultly level is comparable to an oil change.
Time is 30 minutes to 2 hours depending on skill level and if you chose to waste time being angry.
Have all items ready before starting.
Eye Protection & Gloves are a good idea4" C-clamp (6" is ok also)Jack (& Stands if you gott'em)Wheel Blocks (Brick works ok)Lug-Wrench14mm sockethammer or malet may come in handyBungy Cord
PARTS:Brake Pads ($25-$35 aftermarket)Some Brake Lube (not a live or die item, but a good idea $3)Maybe brake fluid ($3)
STEPS:1:Make sure you're on a level surface
2:Block the rear wheels
3:Remove center caps from wheels
4:Before jacking up, break the lug nuts loose using a star pattern (start with any one, then go to the next one in order as if you're drawing a star)
5:Properly place jack and raise car. (If you have them place stands now, if not, once you remove the tire, place it under car, without removing jack, as a emergency catcher)
6:Completely remove lug nuts and wheel
7:Inspect and remember how this looks for replacement later. There should be a large "device" at 2 O'clock on the rotor, this is your caliper and your pads are held by this assembly.
8: Find and remove the two 14mm bolts which are accessed on the back of the caliper. You'll know you have the right ones because of their size and they should have a rubber boot connected to them. When you do the top bolt, there is a hose, attached, LEAVE IT ATTACHED, just move it gently out of your way. Once bolts are out, leave caliper for now. (Bolt removal may require a few taps with the hammer to your ratchet, to break them free)
9:Wrap the bungy cord around the springs on shocks, leave some slack, you'll use this to help hold the caliper for you while you work
10:Now remove caliper. If the caliper doesn't remove easily, tap it LIGHTLY with the hammer and then remove it.
11:Hook the bungy threw the bolt holes on calipers.
12: Open hood and loosen brake fluid lid. You will have some brake fluid over flow when you compress the pistons, this is normal. Remember to re-tighten lid before using brakes.
13:On the caliper, you'll see 2 pistons. Using the C-clamp, do one piston at a time. Place the stationary end of the C-clamp on the back of the caliper and the moving end on the end of the piston. Now compress the piston (tighten C-clamp) until it stops completely. The reason you do this is because the piston has self adjusted to compensate for the worn out pads, the new pads will be thicker and unless you re-compress the pistons, you'll never get the assembly back together.
14: Now wiggle the pads free and place them on the ground in a way which gives you a clue as to how and where they came off from. When you wiggle them free, just use common sense to not damage anything. You'll kinda tilt the outside pad and bring it out, the back pads seems to come almost straight out. remember the angles that get them out so you can reverse that to re-install the new pads.
15:Blow away any pieces of crud and excessive dust
16: Follow lube instruction if you're using it.
***DO NOT LUBE THE PAD ITSELF OR THE ROTOR!!! Brakes require friction to works--of course--and lube reduces friction.***
17: Replace pads, the back pad has the clip/tit/nipple thing but you already know that because you remembered how they came out
18: Replace caliper. If caliper doesn't go on fairly easy, something is wrong, most likely the pistons need compressed further. Once caliper is in place, bolts should thread easily and be tightened tightly, but not stripped.
19: re tighten brake fluid lid
20: Without getting in the car, open the door, turn it on, press brake peddle with your hand to do a preliminary test before replacing wheels. Pump it a few times, once it has full pressure you may notice that the peddle doesn't go down as far = thicker pads require less travel.
21: Put the wheels back on, then using the star pattern -- hand tighten the lug nuts as tight as your hand will do. You will need to wiggle the wheel a little to get it snug as you go. Once the wheel can't wiggle anymore and the lugs are very hand tight. Slowly lower the car. Once it's on the ground finish tightening the lugs with your lug wrench. Leave center caps OFF.
22:Carefully/slowly drive and test brakes. If they fail you will calmly USE YOUR E-BRAKE peddle to stop -- just as you would if your brakes failed any other time.
23: re-check the lug nuts to make sure they're all tight and replace center cap
24:Put away all your tools in order and clean up any mess. (Make this a habit )
25:Pat yourself on the back, this is when you have your beer.
Consider a few things...
Are the old pads you took off NISSAN brand? If so, this may indicate the previous owner preferred factory service and/or parts. GOOD
Did you notice how the rotor shifted in place once you stared taking this apart? Well, only 2 more bolts -- located on the back side of brake assembly and it FALLS off in your hands. Not to hard to replace rotors now that you've been in there.
Modified by Listof7 at 9:24 PM 2/9/2008