J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

General discussion forum for J30 and M30 owners!
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gr8scott72
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Car: 1994 Infiniti J30t

Re: Help with 1995 j-30 (crossbones668)

Postby gr8scott72 » Sat Apr 19, 2008 7:54 am

crossbones668 wrote:Try replacing the fuses, and check the coils, water in the distibutor, etc.
water in the what?


coachdave
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Car: j30 1995

Re: Help with 1995 j-30 (elche1)

Postby coachdave » Tue May 20, 2008 6:07 am

elche1 wrote:I have 2 questons:

1) Does anyone know how to disconnect the alarm system or bypass the system?

2) My J-30 1995 cranks but dosn't start. The Sparks are good, and fuel pressure is good also. Where can I go from here. I think it might have something to due with the alarm . I get no siren or horn on the security system.
I have this same prob.

Here is what happened. Car would not start, tried jumping it, nothing. All electric works (as a matter of fact the radio worked for the first time in forever).

Someone told me it might be Neutral Safety Switch. So i put car in Neutral and it turned right over.

After this every once in a while it would not start, i would put it in neutral, wiggle it a little and it would start.

One time nothing i did would get it to start, so i left it overnight where it was and went back next day and thought i would try it and in neutral it turned right over. Got it home, but now it wil not start at all. Again all electric works no prob, just wont start.

At this point i am assuming it is this Neutral Safety Switch.

Is this something i can DIY?

Where can i get info on doing this work?

I see that some people are saying check fuses. Should i do that??

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks, Coach

roastduck88
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Re: Help with 1995 j-30 (coachdave)

Postby roastduck88 » Fri May 30, 2008 5:53 am

There's a orage wire underneath the Driver side dash that is attached to the Theft warning module (I beleive it's a silver box underneath the dash). Ground that orange wire and you will see your security light shut off instead of flashing. If the light continues to flash then you either didnt' ground it properly or you have the wrong wire.

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craze K
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Nice descriptions

Postby craze K » Tue Jul 22, 2008 11:52 am

This site is great. I bought my parts from everythinginfiniti.com that I needed for my fix. Now all I have to do is give all this great info to my friend so he can replace the parts. Thank you to everyone.
Modified by craze K at 12:35 PM 7/23/2008

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driverdriver
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Postby driverdriver » Tue Jul 29, 2008 9:12 am

Removing J30 shift knob:

Directions courtesy of Deathdealer

Alright, I have searched about everywhere to find out how to remove the stock shift knob on the automatic transmission so I could put a custom one on without breaking something. Now, I'm going to share my knowledge if there are any others like myself.

It's obviously very simple, but if you're a bit cautios like me then you probably don't want to attempt it without knowing for sure what to do. I have found alot of opinions from people about how to remove it, but noone that had experience doing it.

Step 1: We'll have to remove the unlock button that you have to push down to shift out of neutral and park. To do this, stick a flathead screwdriver, or something of that nature, between the button and the shifter on the side facing the back of the car. Do not try to remove the inner, plastic trim around the button. Push down ion the tool and pry the button up. You shouldn't have to apply much pressure to do this, so if you're really trying to force it then you're probably doing something wrong and should stop and have a beer.

Step 2: Once the button pops up and off, you'll see 3 screws. These aren't very important because they only hold down the plastic trim down.

Step 3: Pull off the rod cap and spring - but make sure to keep them as you will probably need them for your custom knob.

Step 4: You'll see a large bolt down in the middle of the knob. This is a bit awkward to get to, but I was able to unscrew it with needle-nose pliers. Unscrew it, pull off the knob, and there you have it! Piece of cake.

I hope this helps!

Victor
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work (rclem7) Drive belt replacement procedure

Postby Victor » Sat Aug 02, 2008 2:35 pm

One of my drive belts is making a squealing noise when I first start driving that is getting worse. Just feeling how much slack is in the belts I think it is probably the alternator belt, since it seems to have the most play in it.I am trying to decide if I should pay someone to replace the three belts (I got a quote of $111.00 parts and labor for Gates belts), or is it something I can do myself. Or maybe I should just try tightening them, but it seems like almost as much work to tighten them as replace them.I just took a quick look but I have some questions about this procedure rclm7 was kind enough to post.1. Is it really necessary to remove the radiator hoses?2. Why is it necessary to loosen the alternator belt before removing the fan? Looks like it would be easier to work if the fan was removed first, but I don't know if the fan and pulley are one unit.3. Can all the work be done from the top or is it necessary to put the car on a lift or jack stands to get to anything from underneath?4. I can't even see any of the adjustment bolts shown in the FSM, so guess all the disassembly would be needed to just tighten the belts even if not replacing.5. Is there any preferred brand of replacement belts, like Goodyear Gatorbacks, or would Auto Zone house brand be OK?

heynow775
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Postby heynow775 » Mon Aug 04, 2008 5:39 pm

i had to pull my1995 j30 with a dollie about 100 miles, it a auto trans. when i went to take it of the dollie it would go into reverse, when i got it offit only gose in drive, you can put it into nutral and its still in drive.you can put it into park and it wont rev. but it feels like its still in drive. what do you think

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gr8scott72
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Re: (heynow775)

Postby gr8scott72 » Tue Aug 05, 2008 4:33 am

heynow775 wrote:i had to pull my1995 j30 with a dollie about 100 miles, it a auto trans. when i went to take it of the dollie it would go into reverse, when i got it offit only gose in drive, you can put it into nutral and its still in drive.you can put it into park and it wont rev. but it feels like its still in drive. what do you think
I think you should have put the drive wheels on the dollie.

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graydragon
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work (Gerardjg)

Postby graydragon » Sun Aug 10, 2008 2:58 pm

did you notice an increase in your gas milage with your O2 sensors changed out? are there only 2? thanks.

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gr8scott72
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work (graydragon)

Postby gr8scott72 » Sun Aug 10, 2008 6:04 pm

graydragon wrote:did you notice an increase in your gas milage with your O2 sensors changed out? are there only 2? thanks.
OBD1 has only 2 O2 sensors (93, 94, 95). OBD2 has 4 (96, 97).

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driverdriver
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Postby driverdriver » Tue Aug 12, 2008 3:28 pm

Pulling Dimmer SwitchCourtesy of Craze K

I'll try to explain as best as I can. It was my first time.

Well on my car there is 2 screws to the right and left under the steering wheel. Remove them and pull from the bottom first. It was alittle tricky to pull up but if you pull on the left side up and out, you'll see there are 4 little tabs at the top of the panel that kinda snap in.( or you can lower your steering wheel for ease of removel) Be gentle so you don't break them. There will be 2 wire harnesses you will need to pull out to remove it completely. They have tabs on them that you have to squeeze to remove them. Then on your dimmer switch there are 2 (possibly 3, mine might have been missing one.) more screws that hold the switch to the panel, you have to remove them to get the dimmer out and apart. The black back box comes off easily using a small flathead screw driver.( There are little tabs on each side that need to be pride apart. You'll see the roller tabs and the circuit board from there. Pull the roller out and bend the 2 tabs out towards the circuit board to make a solid contact once its put back in. I also did this to the pins in the wire harness end. (just slightly as not to break them or bend them too much) I sprayed them with the contact cleaner an let dry, then i reassembled it and it was good. You probably won't need the cleaner but I'm anal with this stuff. I can get pics if you need them also. I also take notes when taking things apart so when I'm reassembling them I have a backup in case I forget something. Hope this helps.

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driverdriver
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Postby driverdriver » Sun Aug 17, 2008 4:12 pm

Transmission Self DiagnosticsCourtsey of Gerardjg

Transmission Self Diagnosticsusing AT light below your temperature gauge on the dash1-Warm up engine2- Shut off car and turn ignition switch to ACC position3-Wait 5 seconds4-Move shifter to D5-Turn ignition switch on do not start

AT check light should come on for about 2 seconds

6-Move shifter to 37- step on gas fully and release8-Move shifter to 29-Move shifter to 110-step on gas fully and release

The At Check light should start flashing 11 flashes aslight pause and start over again. All flashes should be the same length, any flash that is longer indicates a trouble the following list is what the trouble circuit or part is.

A longer flash indicates

1st Flash Revolution sensor2nd flash Speed sensor3rd flash Throttle position sensor4th Shift solenoid valve a5th Shift solenoid valve b6th overrun clutch solenoid7th tourqe converter clutch solenoid8th fluid temp sensor9th engine speed signal10th turbine revolution sensor11th pressure solenoid valve

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driverdriver
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Postby driverdriver » Tue Aug 19, 2008 6:08 pm

HICAS Diagnostics-NOTICE some information in the post is pertinent only to the 300zx. Please ignore. Both the 300zx and J30t (1993 and 1994 models came with HICAS).

HICAS Diagnostic:

Turbos come standard with High Capacity Actively Controlled Suspension, a fancy way to say 4 wheel steering. There's a visual diagnostic mode to check for problems in the HICAS functions. The 90-93 TTs have hydrolic HICAS running off the power steering pump, where '94+ utilizes electric actuators to handle the rear steering chores. Their codes are a little different, but the procedure is the same. It might required a few tries to make it work. Be persistant! Procedure:

1. Ignition switch 'off' manual tranny in neutral or A/T in 'P'

2. Start the engine

3. Within 10 seconds after turning the key to 'ON', start the engine, turn steering wheel from left to right 20 degrees from neutral 5 times or more times & pump the brakes 5 times. Then press the brake pedal again to enter the test mode.

4. Turning the steering wheel left or right past 20 degrees from neutral will cause the rear wheels to turn slightly (~1 degree) (1.).

5. Drive the car forward 15 feet under 9mph to enter the full diagnostic mode.

6. The HICAS dash light will flash a code indicating any problems. Long flash is first digit, short flash is 2nd digit.

7. Diagnostic mode is exited when: ignition is turned off, vehicle speed exceeds 9mph, or diagnostic has operated for 5 minutes.

HICAS light codes for '93:

1. HICAS solenoid R.H. 2. HICAS solenoid L.H. 3. Cut-off valve 4. Power Steering solenoid 5. Vehicle Speed sensor 6. Steering angle sensor 7. Steering Neutral positon sensor 8. A/T: Parking Brake Sensor M/T: Clutch sensor 9. A/T: Inhibitor sensor M/T: Neutral sensor

HICAS light codes for '94:

11. HICAS control unit 12. HICAS motor power supply not present 13. HICAS motor output not present 21. Vehicle speed signal not present 22. Steering angle sensor angle signal not present 23. Steering angle sensor neutral not present 24. Rear main sensor input not present 25. Rear sub sensor input not present 31. Parking brake sensor input not present 32. Inhibitor switch (A/T) or nuetral switch (M/T) input not present 33. Engine speed signal not present


roastduck88
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work (rclem7)

Postby roastduck88 » Sun Nov 23, 2008 12:14 pm

rclem7 wrote:Belt Replacement:

I will try and explain as best I can since I just did this a week ago.

You will have to start by removing the intake tubing, and the two radiator hoses. This will open up the top of the engine and allow you to work.

There are three belts on the car, and of course the one you want to replace is the hardest to get to. You will need to loosen up and remove all the belts. The compressor belt has a tension pully on it. You will need to loosen the nut on the face of that pully, then loosen the bolt pointing down, and that will loosen the compressor belt.

The power steering belt will be removed by loosening the pump itself. In similar fasion, there is a bolt on the lower side of the pump that will need to be loosened. There is a nut on the back side that locks the tension bolt that will need to be loosened, then loosen the tension bolt. You may have to loosen a bolt on the top side of the pump to get it to swivle.

Next you will do the same to the alternator. Loosen the nut on the back side of the tension bolt, then loosen the bolt. I also had to loosen a mounting bolt above the alternator to get it to swivle as well. Once you have the alternator belt loose, you can remove the fan by removing the four bolts on the face. I just was able to get it out the top and out of the way. I don't know if there is an easier way or not, but be very carefull when doing so as not to damage some wires or the timing belt housing. You might even consider loosening the alternator belt first so that you can get the fan out of the way as one of the first steps.

Replace the belts. Would be a good idea to inspect the other ones too since you will have them off. They're not that expensive. Reassemble in reverse order. Just be sure that the alternator belt is the last one you tighten since you will have to replace the fan. It took me about 2 hours to complete the job, but I went into it blindly since I just bought the car.
You do not need to remove the radiator hoses, all the belts / screws are accessible from underneath the car. I've replaced all three belts just be loseening up the bolts w/o any other removal of parts on my 1994 J30

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karlwayne1
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work (driverdriver)

Postby karlwayne1 » Mon Dec 15, 2008 7:48 pm

hello every body my j30 motor locked up on me because low on oil please if any body know any kind of way to unlock the motor before i buy another one please help

drea1aaron
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Car: 95 infinity j30

Re: Tune-Up Questions (idcp)

Postby drea1aaron » Tue Dec 23, 2008 7:46 am

How do you replace the alternator? Is it pretty hard? Where is it located on a 95 J30? thanks

leedrm
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Car: 1995 Infinti J30

Re: (driverdriver)

Postby leedrm » Wed Dec 31, 2008 12:45 pm

pressure solenoid valve

Where is this located and how do it replace it.....My A/T light flashs 11 times, its benn doing it for years....I assume replacing pressure solenoid valve wll correct it...The transmission shift funny from time to time but not bad.

Thanks

infinitirydah
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Car: 1996 Infiniti J30

p/s pump

Postby infinitirydah » Thu Jan 29, 2009 3:55 am

how difficult is it to replace the p/s pump on a 96 j30?

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driverdriver
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Re: p/s pump (infinitirydah)

Postby driverdriver » Fri Feb 06, 2009 5:57 pm

infinitirydah wrote:how difficult is it to replace the p/s pump on a 96 j30?
It's starightforward. Any competent mechanic should be able to do it.

paulwms
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Car: 1992 Infiniti M30

M30 Oilpan Removal

Postby paulwms » Sat Feb 07, 2009 8:46 am

I know this is the J30 DIY topic, but was hoping someone can help with a 1992 M30. Trying to drop the oilpan to inpect rod ends (something's knocking). The manuals say it should drop right out, but I've removed the cross member, jacked up the tranny, removed all oilpan bolts, and can't get it to fall. Its dropped down a half inch, but seems to be hung up on something at the rear - at the tranny connection. Any hints??

infinitirydah
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Re: p/s pump (driverdriver)

Postby infinitirydah » Mon Feb 09, 2009 11:58 am

driverdriver wrote:
It's starightforward. Any competent mechanic should be able to do it.
is there anyway u could give me a step by step? because to be honest i dont even know where to start. any info or advise would be greatly appreciated.

ELBeats
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Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work (driverdriver)

Postby ELBeats » Mon Feb 16, 2009 5:34 pm

hello, my heater display went out, no fan, no digitaldisplay?? any suggestions. its a 94 J30t. ty.

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QCJ30
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Re: Tune-Up Questions (elan)

Postby QCJ30 » Sat Feb 21, 2009 5:22 am

Thanks people! WOW! less than 24hrs on the site, and I'm already getting useful advice. I'm going to try to change the plugs on my 95J.

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QCJ30
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Re: Tune-Up Questions (elan)

Postby QCJ30 » Sun Mar 08, 2009 6:57 am

I DID IT! I DID IT! I CHANGED MY OWN PLUGS! THANK GOD! I DIDN'T MESS UP MY BABY! You guys are such a help, I really appreciate it. THANK YOU ALL!

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driverdriver
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Re: Tune-Up Questions (QCJ30)

Postby driverdriver » Mon Apr 13, 2009 4:11 pm

QCJ30 wrote:I DID IT! I DID IT! I CHANGED MY OWN PLUGS! THANK GOD! I DIDN'T MESS UP MY BABY! You guys are such a help, I really appreciate it. THANK YOU ALL!
Congrats!!!

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driverdriver
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Postby driverdriver » Tue Apr 21, 2009 3:51 pm

Cleaning the J30's MAF

Instructions prvided by J30inthe sun

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/J30/1994_J30/ec.pdf Page 6 shows the location.

You need a spray can of Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner. CRC makes one. http://www.crcindustries.com/h...05110

Loki2012
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Re: Help with 1995 j-30 (elche1) non start

Postby Loki2012 » Sun May 03, 2009 7:18 pm

I had the same problem. I went outside (cold out!) and reparked my car (15 seconds of driving) and the next day it would not start. I searched the forums here and found out a way to start the car (but not the problem). Under the hood, at the fuse box unplug the fuel pump fuse. Start the car - crank it over until it starts. takes a second or two. It will rev up and then start sputtering. Switch off the car at this point and replace the fuse. Car should start and run fine. I had to do this a few times.

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driverdriver
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Postby driverdriver » Sat Jun 06, 2009 4:26 pm

Link to J30 timing belt replacement procedure

zerothread/198122

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driverdriver
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Postby driverdriver » Mon Jun 15, 2009 3:59 am

Field Service Manual Location:

Contains various years.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/J30/


dbovar1
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Car: 1997 Infinti J30

Re: J30 Do-It-Yourself Work

Postby dbovar1 » Mon Jul 06, 2009 12:18 pm

I've lost power and pickup from a dead stop and in turns. Last week, I cleaned the MAF and haven't seen a difference. Fuel pump? transmission filter? Any ideas on why my '97 isnt performing in first gear?

Note: if i mash the pedal it will rev to about 4500 rpm's then take out like a bat out of hell but that kills the gas mileage...somethings wrong!


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