But don't count on me for this writeup...but one of you other guys could head that up.

WD

Truth is Treason in the Kingdom of Lies - Ron Paul

Look at my write up I did a yr ago.

Even though its for a CA and FORD EDIS it still should explain EVERYTHING for you.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/164446

Heres a wiring diagram I made for my harness as you can see the color changes

So pretty much remove the ecu and the plug that goes with it. Leave the lower harness and tranny as that controls your speedo, reverse lights, alternator, starter etc etc. All that will connect to the main body harness.

As for the RELAY board, thats really only meant for older cars that arent as advanced as ours. The 240sx has its own relays so you tap into them which in reality is only 2 wires 1 for the fuel pump relay and 1 for the Ignition switch.

98240KAT I could probably help you in the future as I live in South Florida as well. Pembrooke Pines is like 30mins south of me.

Just wire up the knock sensor, input your parameters and off you go. Plus knock sensors are crap useless little buggers.

I am in the process of talking to DIYAutotune and starting my own MS-II conversion soon, sans the EDIS stuff, as it makes me uncomfortable and seems moot with the stock dizzy able to be utilized just as well.

I will be doing a detailed write up and hopefully this will be the start of the KA24E MS period, where people see just how easy it is to standalone their KA-Es themselves. Someone should do one for the KA24DE.

You got me fired up, WD, I don't have much time lately to write up things I do, but this seems like a great contribution to a board which has given so much to me in terms of knowledge and experience.

I'll be making a separate thread soon.

sil80

As for doing a write up if ya want sure, but not really necessary their are 2 write ups.

1 is for a KA with ITB and the other is for the CA18DET. Even though the CA18DET write up isnt KA specific its the same concept the Ford EDIS-4 doesnt care what more as long as its a 4 cylinder and that you have the crank trigger positioned correctly, so using the write for the CA is exactly the same for the KA.

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/164446

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/tune.htm

http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mtune.htm

Lambda...Gasoline...Propane...Methanol...Ethanol.......Diesel
0.70...........10.3.........11.0.........4.5...........6.3...........10.2
0.75...........11.0.........11.8.........4.9...........6.8...........10.9
0.80...........11.8.........12.5.........5.2...........7.2...........11.6
0.85...........12.5.........13.3.........5.5...........7.7...........12.3
0.90...........13.2.........14.1.........5.8...........8.1...........13.1
0.95...........14.0.........14.9.........6.1...........8.6...........13.8
1.00...........14.7.........15.7.........6.5...........9.0...........14.5
1.05...........15.4.........16.5.........6.8...........9.5...........15.2

Very good tuning writeups. MSII gets better everytime I look into it. By the time I get the motor swap half done, the MSII won't have any bugs and probably a few new options.

WD

http://www.megamanual.com/flexfuel.htm

At the moment its the only aftermarket EMS that allows you to use Flex Fuel technology. The way it works is that you use a sensor from any of the flex fuel cars and what it does is sense the frequency change from Gasoline to E85 even straight up Alcohol. What this does is megasquirt will adjust your maps accordingly when it senses the new fuel. So you dont have to constantly tune if you switch fuels.

As for bugs I havent noticed any, only problem I had was a fuel richness problem which was my own stupid fault.

Overall I'm REALLY REALLY happy with my setup.

WD

I figured when I make a separate thread, I could open it up with my progress on removing the old harness and prepping the rest up for MSing, and then go into the detail of wiring it up and seeing if it blows up when I try to crank it.

I am SO happy I won't have the damn MAFS anymore... ugh, how I hate that wire that goes to it, it's never in a good place and always in the way.
Also, that really thick wire that combined injectors and distributor that always rubs the valve cover, I'll figure out just how to make it nice and concealed and NOT RUBBING.

On the other hand I am concered about passing emissions without an air pump... Not baswed on visual, but on the smog results alone...has anyone passed them before while turbo and w/out air pump? I would think yes, but just wondering...

sil80

http://www.diyautotune.com/cat...e502f

http://www.diyautotune.com/cat...e502f

AND this:

http://www.diyautotune.com/cat...e502f

sil80

Modified by sil80drifter at 3:38 PM 3/22/2007

I like the relay board a lot, it will make it a snap to trace down any issues, and wiring to it is also very simple. Yes I could try to utilize the old fuses and relays, but WHY?
To me it's worth to have a simple solution, and if I spent an extra $100 on it, it's ok. The total coat of the MS with all the stuff is still $620 total for me, and that's under my $700 budget. I know I will be buying some connectors and etc, but again, simplicity and ease of use are important to me.

Similar to why you chose the pre-made harness instead of making your own again, I chose to buy the MS assembled and ready to go. I am comfortable with soldering, but it's just not worth my time, especially having to worry about tracking down solder issues with the Stimulator, when I could be spending that time tuning/driving/f-in my ex. Yes, someone could spend $250 less and 20-30 more hours DIYing the whole thing, instead of buying complete components.

But to me 20 hours are worth more than $250. I make more at work , and I def don't need solder practice.

sil80

Modified by sil80drifter at 6:43 AM 3/23/2007

Also the only relay you have to tap into is the Fuel Pump, which is taken care of when you splice into a Black/Pink wire thats on a 8pin brown connector near the battery. Than you give power to MS via the ignition switch on the steering wheel.

With the relay board you do the same work as if you did the regular harness but with a few steps more like wiring it to the fuel pump.

If the OEM setup is too old just replace the relays.

Additionally the injector, fuel pump and main fuses are also on the board. It's quite useful, if you ask me.

So... I don't think I threw money away on this one.

sil80

Modified by sil80drifter at 11:07 PM 3/22/2007

I'm wondering though, what all would have to be rewired if I choose to use a new harness Vs splicing into the factory wires? I realy don't think my wiring is in all that bad of shape but if it's not too much trouble new wiring might be nice.

Also, does anyone know how the MS addresses the fast idle control for the AC? I know it works with the idle control but couldn't find any mention of the accessory controler.

as for the A/C idle control, their working on it.

First of all, instead of dealing with 6-8 ground wires for each sensor, you deal with one. From that one ground wire you can run wires to the 2 major ground points on the KA, and your set.

You also eliminate relay setup for the FP, which is a pain to even get at. The wires criss cross in the cab from the FP, go to the relay, and from the relay they go up underneath the dash to the ECU.

To top it all off, the relay board makes things so easy to install, and then later, to diagnose if any problems arise. Its got 20 different connectors, each one having a place where the wire or wires go into, then you tighten down the screw and your connection is made. Like the connections on an amp for car audio, except smaller.

There are other reasons to switch to the relay board im sure, but i cant think of anything else right now.

As a side-note, i just finished installing my MS unit, and tomorrow i go to test all the sensors and that good stuff. I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND the relay board.

The IAC-FCID unit is a PWM/Stepper type motor, and MS can control those types of circuts. However no one knows how to do it yet. I just left all those idle control systems connected to the ECU, so i dont have to worry about losing any drivability.

Modified by 480sx at 9:46 AM 4/20/2007

Anyway, How does the MS relay board work with all the accessories and would it be a benefit even if my dash is out?

Also, as per the write up, do I need to buy 2, 12V relays to wire the injectors up as shown or are these found in the vehicle somewhere.

If you get the relay board it takes care of your injector problem.

The relay board wont replace your stock relays, it only controls all the engine bay wiring for MS. So, to answer your question, it would still be a benefit, however it really wouldnt matter if your dash was in or not.

Am I right in understanding that I need to cut the constant hot and add those two relays to the system for the injectors if I don't have the relay box?