yea logan its that damned plastic chain guide.. im taking the rest of it off when i do the valve seals this week... that was the biggest chunk, their were little bits in the bottom of the pan also but not too much. the chain and lower sproket look ok and im prety sure everything else will be okay.. good to get that crap out of their..

other than that, I'll be back at her starting tommorow and have a nother batch of pics by friday/saturday... and oddly enough I ve broken a single bolt comming off. I only broke 1 bolt due to overtighting.. As my teacher stated, tight is tight, too tight is broke.. ahh so true..

My Build Thread!!!
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/210402

I need to hurry up, my date for the body shop is right after xmas break.. what a nice present to myself... Midnight blue FTW!!!

Got the valve cover off, everthing looks good. No heat scoring or anything off. Too bad thats as far i got.

got the injector plugs off, using this nifty pick. but lost 2 of them to the great abyss(aka intake manifold)

prior to removal of the fuel rail i had to disconnect these rubber lines to what appears to be part of the EGR system. The Vavle was all gummed up with carbon and the line was ripped and filled with carbon. Do i need this, what should I do? And would this cause a rough idial when cold?

i got the fuel lines off and the rail came off easy, and people who say the injectors are hard to remove, I don't know where your comming from. Mine allmost fell out, who knows.

So tommorow will be start on the valve seals. I know theirs a write up but the pics are bad so Ill be sure to takes lots of pics for that guys write up..

Take er ez guys

http://www.a2sportcompacts.com There is an alarming lack of hamburger vehicles present in Ann Arbor, take a visit and help bring them back.

they are not hard to remove you just have to know how to do it.
i can remove all 4 in under a minute (assuming the fuel rail is off the engine) without straining or damaging anything.

this is a supplement to the DIY SOHC Valve seal replacement found here:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/203057 written by EBUD1. NOT BY ME!! IM just adding pics!! Edub I PM'ed you!
(the () are what I've added)
Quote, originally posted by Edub1 »

1) Position car on clean hard surface – IMPORTANT ( No pics here simple enough)

2) Remove valve cover (8 10mm bolts using a 6 inch extension.No pics!)

3) Remove rocker arm assemblies leaving cam in place(okay, 5 bolts a side with washers under each bolt. Use your 10mm with extension and break them all free.

I then spun them all lose by hand and removed them 1 by 1 laying the bolts and washers in removal order.

then carefully remove the arm assemblies and set them in a clean area and put a clean rag over them.)

4) Remove spark plug and screw in air hold tool(using a spark plug socket remove 1 plug.)

(then using a fitting off of a compression tester screw the hose into the spark plug hole.Then connect your air line, our shops max PSI is 130, so its seems perfect enough.)

Removing the rocker assemblies will close all the valves so there is no need to rotate motor. Compress cylinder to 140PSI as per FSM. 120PSI worked fine for me.

Thats as far as I got, we did not have a valve spring compressor that fit my motor. My instructor will be bringing one Monday, so until then that's paused.

Got the clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, on

Got the fuel rail assembly done, new orings, insulators.

and back to bushings,for the rear sub-frame.

My bolts looked nasty, so a good dousing in PB was in order. I work for a Nissan dealer and have done my share of altima/maxima sub-frame recalls and know never use a cheater bar on a sub-frame stud. I got a 18mm deepwheel, 6 inch extension and 12inch 1/2 ratchet and went to work. Suprisingly 3 out of 4 broke free with this method. The other one I used a torch to gingerly warm ONE side of the nut, not even glowing red just warm. The bushing was not even hot. be carefull, if using heat.
(sorry for the blurry pic, only 1 i have.)

When you look at your bushing you have 2 big ones and 2 small ones, the bigger go in the rear and smaller in the fronts with the washer in between the bushing and plate.

Again sorry for the pic, it will seat the whole way in, if not it just needs some "help" in form of a pry bar and swearing. Other than that torque to specs. Same for the fronts.

So this week was okay, Looking for pant after winter break, so goal next week isto get her running. Need the tranny back in exhaust finsished, engine finished and clutch bled.. hmm busy busy..
Night

when you go to put the rear control arm bushings in CUT THEM IN HALF, just like the front. when i did mine i put a hack saw in a vice pointing up and sawed each bushing in half. but if i were to do it again i would use one of those wooden miter boxes bc its almost impossible to keep the cut straight when doing it by hand. oh yea search for the 'slotted rear control arm' trick so you can get proper alignment specs since your lowered...

Wait why would I cut them in half, I didn't cut the fronts. I have access to a press and thats exactly what i did, press them out and in. How would bushings be life threathing?
thanks

no your correct.. You can even see the "L" marking for the left side caliper when it is on the right side of the car. Problem was addressed, becuase the line holder thingy was backwards.. Good eye and thanks for letting everone know howmuch i suck lol

Her just hanging around in the body shop^^

Bare metal everywhere..^^

Found a cheaply fibreglassed hole in the rear fender..

The pass side..^^ worst of the sides..

Driver side rear fender... dam SALT STATES!!!! this car will be summer only..

^biggest hole.. nasty...

^future patch... lol

well thats it for only 2 days of work... got a lot ahead of us tho.. I'll try to take pics everyday for you as a why of saying sorry... any who.. wish me luck!!!

EDIT: fixed images..

Started to get patches made and welded on...
Remember these holes..?
Before..

After..

Needs a lil bit more grinding..
And then remember this big nasty one?
Before...

After some very fancy bends and nice craftsmanship by my long time body GIRL.. you get this..

a few more hours with the body hammer and she'll be good as new!

I actually have a straight Pinch Weld!!!!!

In case I never mentioned this.. I don't do body work and tried once and sucked.. I'm having my good long time friend, who is a girl, do the majority of the body work... so yea lol

Next up is this monster of a hole..

and sadly the only actual body damage.. the rest is damned rust..

enjoy

it was "cold" so we had monday and tuesday off so here where the car is now.

drivers side rear quarter is taking shape..

the big hole finally has some metal behind it

section to be cut out due to pitting/corrosion.

the big hole is coming together

and finally i felt left out so i figured why my tank was out to clean it all up and repaint it..i love parts cleaner and a wire brush.

hey, sorry for lack of pictures my sister took my camera on a business trip so more pics should be here by wensday... but the real news is I just bought a CA motorset, and will be included in this buildup. I'm so pumped right now, and thanks to my dad for spotting me the extra cash. So it should be here in about 1 week give or take and their will be pictures.. here she is now waitng to come to me.

wish me luck boys in going boosted!

test-type00.blogspot.com/

Quote, originally posted by Chief_Suicide »

Good luck with the new motor.... looking good!

hey thanks chief for the support, btw, are you headin out to Carlie this may? It would be great to meet up and show off the 240's. much thanks

and RP hell yea I hear you, Boost is gonna be so sweet, and shops in schools rock so hard.. ps man post up some pics!!!

Quote, originally posted by MOB240 »

damn! i wish i had a shop in my hs! my hs is only like 4yrs old...they'll probably have it some day, but long after im gone lol this is my last semester as a senior!

Same here man, thats why I decided to get my *** working on my car... Hs seniors FTW!!! lol

Yea got the gas tank all clean and reundercoated.. boooring..

Okay the good stuff, here she is in the truck waiting for school.

Got it off the pallet and on the ground, so we can pull the tranny..

Got the trans off and scored a sweet Veil Side shift Nob!! which was actually in really nice shape.

Pulled the clutch and flywheel, good shape, it looks like theirs more rust than their is heat abuse, probably was sitting for a while. And Its an Exceedy and Lightened Flywheel! Double Score!!

Here you can see the clutch and its not in to bad of shape, but I'm probably gonna resurface the flywheel and use my new clutch off my old motor.

Nissan Pride FTW!!

Another sweet goodie!! APEX-i air filter!!

Money shot, the turbo feels so freaking nice, spins freely and ZERO movement/shaft play/ whatever!

Heres my next set of questions tho, I got the ecm with a sticker on it and the MAF wires spliced. Is this a bigger MAF?

another shot of it, sorry for the shotty pics, its a 4 pin set up.. any comments on what it is??

And finally the ECM, with its sticker, is their a way to see if its chipped? Anyone ever here on D-Tech working on CA's??

And my next Problem/ question, I found this plug right next to the Oil Filter and this nipple right under it, which appeared to be leaking oil, is this a removal of the dummy light and the nipple is for a oil pressure gauge???

And we had just enough time to pull 1 valve cover where my greatest joy came, the cams looks SO NICE, no scratches an no gunky in the cover!

Yea the oil was light brown, didn't smell burnt and no metal or anything, pulled all 4 plugs and they looked great, harness was in awesome shape and everything was included. So overal I say I made out allright.

Quote, originally posted by tu_bryan »

i wanna buy a civic so i can rice it out

Quote, originally posted by WDRacing »

Anything SR related automaticlly makes your 240 Queer, its like a STD WD

My page..................................

myspace.com/r3n0v4d0

Quote, originally posted by Reno »

hey where did u get the motor set from??

I got the motor set from a shop in canada, I took a risk and I think it payed off, I'll know for sure once shes in. Their website is http://www.sunrisejdmmotors.com/ which sucks. They also sell on eBay, where I bought it from http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...&rd=1
actually their selling another motor, but it looks half as good as mine. So I think I took a chance and lucked out. But I called and they were nice, they even were honest enough to show a sensor they broke, which was part of the A/C. The warenty is 30 start up with head and block covered. I won't reccomened them just yet but so far its looking awesome.
And the total was $1349 shipped to where I work, because we have a fork lift. So just be careful and ask a junk load of questions! good luck

Got the ac compressor and bracket out.
any one want to buy? and im selling my SMIC too

pulled the left valve cover, check this out..

yea THAT clean..

the spinner.

left off trying to get that damned CAS off.. Any tips please!!!

body shop pics should be here tommorow!!
peace

The drivers front wheel well hole.. FIXED.

The drivers side whole quarter panel. FIXED.

Pass. side quarter Fiberglassed.

Pass side rear wheel well. Still needs a little more work.

Not much else I'm expecting to have the project completely done in 5-6 weeks. And am planning to install the motor this weekend.
other than that, comments concerns? peace!