where in SD do you live because i need to know where to go in SD to get an SR smogged and it will pass.

Thanks
Steve

Modified by dontbugme at 6:09 PM 9/6/2007

Modified by dontbugme at 6:09 PM 9/6/2007

what happens if i dont pass or cops pull me over

Im 19 living in norcal dying to get a stock SR20 already swapped, but dont know if its possible to drive it on the street, it has to be possible i mean come on.

what about the sentra? it was on that, and the G20 as well

do you mean it's not on the list of engines for the 240SX?

i wish. nope! it wont pass at all. period. calli suks

Quote, originally posted by Dr.Fate »

Man I'm out here in SD and I need A smog bad!! I wish now that I did not even do the swap and just stuck with the KA and tricked out that bad mofo. If anybody can help me please p.m. me or hell hit me up on xbox live ( dr fate )!

keep looking dude. make some friends in smog places .

If your car is supposed to be OBDII, you CAN NOT beat the system. No you can't "piggyback" your KA ecu for the OBDII port to work. OBDII is a whole new beast, not just an extra 'I' !! Do the slightest amount of research!

The way OBDII testing works is it pings the ECU for a couple status and operational checks and then looks to see if there are any stored 'check engine' codes. If it passes those tests and then sees you don't have any codes stored, then the motor must be running right, so you pass. If you were somehow able to rig up the ECU for power and find out which pins go to the OBDII port, it won't do you good, since the ECU won't pass the first couple tests without seeing every other pin doing the right things.

To do what you're all hoping to find the answer for, someone's going to have to brush off their electronics engineering skills and make a "black box" that acts as a KA24DE Simulator so the ECU thinks the engine is installed, running, and running properly. Might sound easy to the noobs or easy to pay off someone to do for them for the rich noobs but there's little things like RPM based voltages, intentionally fluctuating O2 sensor voltages, and other **** you'd be surprised about.

If you can't get your car to pass smog, your registration is defaulted to invalid in something like 30 days from the absolute last effort to get it to pass. If you just never go to the emissions center, the same thing happens.

The "registering a car out of state" thing is bull**** too, that's only for TAXES, and it's ILLEGAL, and if you're pulled over more than once in the same car in the same year, you're heavily ****ed. I haven't heard of any states without ANY form of emissions testing since the 80's. It's not like it's a choice whether you want to participate with the EPA. If there still are states that don't test, it's only a matter of time while they get their **** together and unify their regulations and testing requirements for that state. I do know some states still haven't had the budget to completely revamp the system and provide all new equipment to test centers, but you would still have to drive to the state you registered the car in to get it sniff tested on the rollers. Then what happens if you don't pass? That ****'s not worth it.

To whoever was asking about me passing in my S13, I BARELY PASSED. The testing was done at the ****ty Napa shop next to Dutchess down newtown road in danbury. They had modern testing equipment there, as does ALL emissions test centers in CT. My car was on the rollers running at 25mph for about 5 minutes, with a Completely stock setup and recirculated BOV. My Hydrocarbons were so high because S13SR's don't have an EGR system to keep the cylinder head temps down. I believe the value allotments differ from state to state as well, for what it's worth.

If you want an S14 with an SR20DET, get a '95. '96+ are all OBDII. From what I can tell, you ought to get an S14 "Notchtop" SR20DET as well, because they DO have an EGR system and you should more easily be able to pass hydrocarbons in the sniffer test. Putting an S14SR in an S13 is the tits, too. The only downside to an S14SR is that the ECU's are different enough (NO they're not OBDII either) that typical daughterboard ROM tunes are not applicable, so for any real mods you'll need a standalone setup for fuel management.

If you have a 96+ OBDII car, you can either buy a '95 wreck and swap all data plates and re-register the car, or you can go KA-T with piggy-back management and have it run like crap for the rest of your life.

Modified by Neil at 7:29 AM 6/24/2008

Modified by Neil at 7:31 AM 6/24/2008

Unfortunately don't have results to post here as I used a PIF. Fellow who did the test said the only high reading was NOX, which didn't surprise me. I was more worried about high HC's.

http://www.gamerzpost.com/Forum

I just picked the closest PIF down the street and he passed the car, I think pretty much any PIF will do it for a nominal fee.