I'll meet you at a local get together sometime as I won't be able to attend Nopi

I would go for standard copper for performance. They don't last as long but from what I have seen they offer the best performance (from what I have heard at least). Plat spark plugs would be next. Most mechanics have told me that SplitFire plugs don't help at all.

What color/year?

http://www.maxima.org

I hope my car lasts to 200k+ miles, assuming I don't get a newer Nissan product at some point

Lets see some pictures people.

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Get your pimp gear here!

1999 I30 Limited
Autumn Bronze
Willow(ish) interior
Auto Tranny
100% stock...unless you count XM as a mod.

PEACE

I have a 1997 Pearl White SE. Black/Leather, Carbon fiber dash kit, gen2 carbon fiber tails, smoked corner lights, B&M short-throw, Exedy Stage2 clutch (going out), Injen style CAI, full 2.5'' warpspeed exhaust- 3'' y-pipe, highflow cat, 2.5'' B-pipe w/ Magnaflow resonator and OBX muffler. It's dropped with KYB struts/shocks with H&R springs. Should have 00VI installed within a few weeks, new rims before snow (even though I can't drive w/ them). This is my second Max, it is still N/A but im working on that as we speak. $$$ is the only problem right now.

Hope to see you guys around, you should come to Madison on a Friday/Saturday night if its not raining. Fridays are very good nights for the strip, alot of people. We park in front of the highschool.

I'll get some pics soon.

Modified by TurboMax67 at 4:12 PM 9/27/2005

Modified by TurboMax67 at 8:48 PM 9/27/2005

Just let us know if you need any advice or help on anything. I, as well as the other Mods for this area, have access to the FSM's for 93/94-on-models.

So what is the color of the wife's I30?

Interior?

Your driving impressions?

If you're looking for getting your stock 18's back, ebay is the place to look. I've been trying to find a cheap pair for my '93, and the dealer wants over 1200 for a set. Here you can find them a bit cheaper, though. And there are always multiple auctions, so if you miss this one, there'll be another.

Modified by MinisterofDOOM at 9:45 PM 10/2/2005

4.08 VLSD, NICO 8-way ECU, full exhaust with custom headers,
Tokico Blues with Eibach springs, Stillen FSTB, 20mm RSB

Check out my new wheels! Hey audtatious, thanks for the input on the wheel sizes and offsets. It made it a little bit easier picking out the right wheels

Thanks!

Tokico Illuminas, TEIN H-techs, Stillen Front/Rear Strut tower bars, Progress rear sway...that's what's on the wish list anyway

Monkey- that sounds like a pretty good plan. the guy who parked next to me on saturday at NOPI had tokicos and teins, and he said it rides really good. If I decide to put any money into my maxima and not sell it that's probably what I'll start with

Quote, originally posted by maxima278 »

eye30forever- my suggestion for you, five-speed swap. You can find instructions on maxima.org, I think. That would be just wickid cool.

No need to go anywhere else. Directions to that mod and others can be found in the How to's / Information Sticky at the top of this very forum.

Quote, originally posted by maxhopper97 »

No need to go anywhere else. Directions to that mod and others can be found in the How to's / Information Sticky at the top of this very forum.

even better

by the way I really do know how to spell 'wicked'. guess I had a brain fart

Link fixed.

Maybe someone else reading this can enlighten you as to what year trannys will fit your car.

Hey, Josh! I've got a bone stock 93 GXE myself...and I'm in love with it
The 93-94 is my favorite Maxima of all.

If there is a universal code, I doubt it would be published...that'd be a huge security issue. You use the code to silence the alarm (and disable the ignition lockout) and access the trunk (bad for leaving with valets if the code is known!) as well as lock/unlock the doors and roll the windows down, so it'd be foolish to make it available to the public.

There ARE, however, individual "Master" codes--one per car. I called my dealer (best dealer ever!) and they told me the only charge should be a $9.99 lookup charge, which comes straight from nissan (Nissan charges the dealer, and they pass it on to you). Maybe your dealer does that different or something, but it shouldn't cost you more than $9.99 to get the master code for your car cross-checked with your VIN. You just need the VIN, proof of ownership, and the 10 bucks and you should be good to go.

But before you go that route:

Do you have all the original documentation for the car? (leather folder, owners manual, maintenance manual, warranty booklet, any or all of that?) Look inside--in all the pockets. The car came from the dealer with two small metal plates. One is about 1/4x1 inch and has a 7 digit number on it. This is your individual car's master code. You can use this to set additional codes (that you can remember) or simply use it on it's own. The other plate is your key ID, to get replacement keys cut if yours wear out (like mine have) and it's much smaller, with a 5-character sequence.

If you do have the manual, go to section 2-4. It's got all this info. If you don't have the manual, here's the important stuff:

• Have the larger, 7-digit plate ready.
• Press "Start" (C/ST..the first button) then enter the sequence on the plate.
• A It'll beep for 6 seconds. Enter any code you want, between 4 and 7 digits.
• After you've entered the code, a series of short-interval repeated beeps will sound.

The car will not accept the following codes:
•Any number where all digits are on the same button (like 1-2-1-2, or 3-3-4-4)
•Any number requiring sequential operation of buttons (1-3-5-7 or 7-5-3-1)

In case you don't know (I wrote this assuming you had just bought the car--then realized maybe you had it and forgot your code...), here's how it all works:
To unlock the doors, press start, enter your code.
To pop the trunk, do the same as above (the doors will unlock) and then press [TRK/1|2]. For windows, same as for the trunk, but replace the [1|2] button with the [WDW/5|6] button. Lock the doors with [LCK/9|0] (the orange button).

Modified by MinisterofDOOM at 12:34 PM 10/10/2005

FIX THIS NOW!!!!!!!
This will end your transmission VERY quickly. Get a better (bigger) trans cooler installed, and have a THOROUGH flush done to free up any gunk (do thses at the same time, so the system is nice and clean and new for the new cooler). The transmission the car's biggest (and only, really) mechanical weakness. The lines get plugged, and lubrication becomes inadequate, which results in more debris plugging things up, and it goes round and round until your trans makes a nice *CRUNKCHCHHC---SLAM!* noise and suddenly you have no power anymore. What you're describing sounds exactly like what happened to my car in the week before the trans went out.

If there's a recall, make sure you try to get nissan to cover it first.

Quote, originally posted by blondjon01 »

Oh Yea And The Dealer Ship Wants 75 Dollars To Tell Me The Unlock Codes And Since YOu Have One Do Theose Things Come With Keyless Entry I Mean Like Stock....

Tell them you were quoted $10 by another dealer, and you'll go there instead then. $75 is just rediculous.

No. Just the keypads on the doors, and that's only on the GXE.