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Post Title: Headlights won't pop up... Posted by:Danrc30 at 8:22 PM 12/11/2004 1993 240SX vert, and my headlights won't pop up when I turn the switch on. They light up just fine. They will pop up only when I either hit the switch that raises them or if I flash the high beams... They work fine then! Is there some sort of relay or something that is supposed to trigger the lights to go up when I turn the headlights on?
Post Title: Re: Headlights won't pop up... (Danrc30) Posted by:s13sr20chris at 4:43 PM 12/12/2004 yeah, there are like 6 or so relays actually. its a pretty complex circuit but fixable im sure. obviously the hardware works so thats really good. i would double check the lamp switch since you can do it with the high beams and open/close switch. if that checks ok i will put up a copy of the wiring diagram.
Post Title: Re: Headlights won't pop up... (s13sr20chris) Posted by:Danrc30 at 6:57 PM 12/12/2004 How do I check the switch? Is there something specific I should check?
Post Title: Re: Headlights won't pop up... (Danrc30) Posted by:s13sr20chris at 2:05 PM 12/13/2004
Post Title: Re: Headlights won't pop up... (s13sr20chris) Posted by:s13sr20chris at 2:07 PM 12/13/2004
and now that i am not being lazy i will show you the wiring diagrams! see in the second one why i suggest starting with the switch. the switch is easier. you just pull the switch off and test for continuity at the terminals that are connected by the black lines.
Post Title: Re: Headlights won't pop up... (s13sr20chris) Please help??? Posted by:Danrc30 at 8:21 PM 6/6/2005 Ok, I finally had a little time tonight to troubleshoot this. I did this cause my passenger side light decided to not go down anymore. I traced it to the grey retract relay in the relay box just behind the headlight. I put a used one in and that solved that problem. (I am going to get a new grey relay tomorrow at Nissan.)
I then went in the console and changed the headlight switch to see if that was the problem. It wasn't. It did the same thing... except the healights won't even come up now when I hit the high beams... not with either headlight switch! Who knows why this is. I don't know if this changed before or after I swapped out the relay.
Is there a relay or relays that make the lights go up when you turn the lights on?
---Dan
Post Title: UPDATE!!! Re: Headlights won't pop up... (s13sr20chris) Please help??? (Danrc30) Posted by:Danrc30 at 9:41 AM 6/10/2005
Ok, I just put the new relay in, and the high beams work the headlights again. They will go up and down when i hit the high beams, but still will not go up when I turn the lights on. Can someone please tell me which relay is next in line to replace? Please... any suggestions will be appreciated.
Post Title: Re: UPDATE!!! Re: Headlights won't pop up... (Danrc30) Posted by:Danrc30 at 10:39 PM 6/11/2005 Anyone?
Please????????
Post Title: Re: UPDATE!!! Re: Headlights won't pop up... (Danrc30) Posted by:s13sr20chris at 10:36 AM 6/12/2005
hmmmm, did you try whacking the headlamp timer unit?
Post Title: Re: UPDATE!!! Re: Headlights won't pop up... (s13sr20chris) Posted by:Danrc30 at 11:22 AM 6/12/2005
Quote, originally posted by s13sr20chris »
hmmmm, did you try whacking the headlamp timer unit?
Not yet. Where is it located?
Post Title: Re: UPDATE!!! Re: Headlights won't pop up... (Danrc30) Posted by:s13sr20chris at 4:25 PM 6/12/2005
by the drivers feet. its a small box. im not sure if its behind the knee bolster or behind the kick panel.
Post Title: Re: UPDATE!!! Re: Headlights won't pop up... (s13sr20chris) Posted by:Danrc30 at 6:28 PM 6/12/2005
Quote, originally posted by s13sr20chris »
by the drivers feet. its a small box. im not sure if its behind the knee bolster or behind the kick panel.
Could I get a better descrition of the box? Color maybe? Thanks.
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 4:41 AM 6/13/2005
Where did this replacement head light switch come from? New or used? The box is either white or green. The fact the lights do jump up when 2 other options are used leads me to the switch as it did Chris. I will breeze through the diag and see if I can give your a better guess to hang a part [since it is your money] but it would be more cost effective for you if you tested some circuits to determine what exactly is failing in the system. Not slammin you here just trying to save you some green back.
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:Danrc30 at 4:59 AM 6/13/2005
Quote, originally posted by NISTECH »
Where did this replacement head light switch come from? New or used? The box is either white or green. The fact the lights do jump up when 2 other options are used leads me to the switch as it did Chris. I will breeze through the diag and see if I can give your a better guess to hang a part [since it is your money] but it would be more cost effective for you if you tested some circuits to determine what exactly is failing in the system. Not slammin you here just trying to save you some green back.
The switch was used but it was from my parts car and the lights did work properly on that car. Since I have the parts car, I don't mind swappibg parts back and forth to see what the problem is.
As far as tesing circuits goes, I'm about as fluent with electronic circuits as Paris Hilton is with reality.
Sorry to put you guys through this, but like I said, I can just start swapping parts from the parts car. I just need to know what to start swapping first!
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 5:15 AM 6/13/2005
The difference in operation between the 3 modes of opening is the time control unit recieves a signal on terminal 3 when turning the headlights from parking lights to headloghts[the point at which the motors are suppose to operate to up] In the other 2 choices it does not send a signal to that terminal. BUT that circuit also uses its own fuse. so you need to look at the fuse too. Note though that fuse supposedly also powers your marker and tail lights. Still check to make sure the 3rd fuse up on the right side of your fuse box in the drivers kick panel has power on both sides when the switch is turned on. It is a 15 amp fuse. If it does go to the time control unit and do the same test on terminal #3 with the switch turned to the on position. The timer is located in the drivers kick panel, and its black not the colors I mentioned before. When you pull the kick panel trim off you will see 2 controllers one white and one black. the one further in is black, that is the unit your after.
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:Danrc30 at 6:14 AM 6/13/2005
Quote, originally posted by NISTECH »
The difference in operation between the 3 modes of opening is the time control unit recieves a signal on terminal 3 when turning the headlights from parking lights to headloghts[the point at which the motors are suppose to operate to up] In the other 2 choices it does not send a signal to that terminal. BUT that circuit also uses its own fuse. so you need to look at the fuse too. Note though that fuse supposedly also powers your marker and tail lights. Still check to make sure the 3rd fuse up on the right side of your fuse box in the drivers kick panel has power on both sides when the switch is turned on. It is a 15 amp fuse. If it does go to the time control unit and do the same test on terminal #3 with the switch turned to the on position. The timer is located in the drivers kick panel, and its black not the colors I mentioned before. When you pull the kick panel trim off you will see 2 controllers one white and one black. the one further in is black, that is the unit your after.
Ok, found it and swapped them out. But it didn't work...
I'm so frustrated... it makes no sense....
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 6:21 AM 6/13/2005
Did you check the fuse?
you have swapped all possible parts from one car to the other at this point so this leads to a wiring issue. You need to get a volt meter and figure out how to use it and start testing. I will help walk you through it. This is the only way you are going to find this problem.
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:Danrc30 at 6:48 AM 6/13/2005
Yes, the fuse is good.
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 7:00 AM 6/13/2005 I will say this though. once you test this circuit you will be very proficent at testing things as this is one of the more complex [stupid] circuits nissan engineers came up with.
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:Danrc30 at 7:05 AM 6/13/2005 hahaha.... ok, so where do I begin my fist lesson?
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 7:17 AM 6/13/2005 You need to test terminal 3 for power when you turn the head lamp switch to headlights. The black lead on your meter goes to a good ground, in the area your working in the steering coloum boot studs coming through the firewall are good ones. Test to make sure you have a good ground by touching the red lead of your meter to the backs of some of the fuses where the slots are on the fuses back side.[this also how to check fuses without pulling them out] when you see 12 volts you connection is good. now poistion your head light timer control unit so you can back probe the connector while its plugged into the unit. Locate terminal 3 and test it. terminal 3 is the one directly below the push clip to release the connector. It should be red with a blue tracer.
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:Danrc30 at 12:23 PM 6/13/2005 Ok. I pulled the fuse and with no key in and no lights on, the left side of the fuse has 12 volts, and the right side has nothing (when you're looking at the fuse box of course).
I put the fuse back in and tested the red/blue wire you suggested. I get nothing until I turn the parking lights on. They come on, and then that wire has power. I tested it fron the front while the black box was unplugged and with it plugged into the box.
What's next?
(this is going to turn into a great troubleshooting reference guide for a lot of people... lol)
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 2:47 PM 6/13/2005
Ok still at the time control unit you need to test for power on terminal 9 the same way. terminal 9 is orange and is located at the end terminal right next to another orange wire that is the second terminal in. you want to test only the end one at this point.
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:Danrc30 at 3:19 PM 6/13/2005 Ok, When I test this wire and hit the headlights, it jumps to around .09 and then quickly goes down to .02 to .04 volts. It does nothing when I just hit the parking lights.
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 3:29 PM 6/13/2005 disconnect it and test it. you should see 12 volts
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:Danrc30 at 3:38 PM 6/13/2005 Disconnected it and I got nothing.
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 3:45 PM 6/13/2005 ok you now need to move to the headlight switch and check for power at terminal 26. see Chris's post with the combination switch for the location of that terminal. it is a orange with black tracer wire in that connector. you need to remove the covers behind your steering wheel, but you do not need to remove the steering wheel to gain access to the connectors.
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:Danrc30 at 3:56 PM 6/13/2005 Getting 12 volts on that wire when the headlight switch turns on.
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 4:09 PM 6/13/2005 you have found the wire thats the problem, BTW that wire you tested at the head light switch is a direct feed to the last wire you tested at the timing control unit. Seem odd to you why at this end of the wire you have 12volts and at the other end you have almost nothing??
I think I know your problem but we want to check for voltage at one other location. remove retract relay #4 and check for power at terminal #1. the relay is in the box at the right of the engine compartment. the wire color is orange. My guess is you wont see any power there either but you should. If not we need to find the diode block, let me know what you come up with on your test and I will look for the diode block.
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:Danrc30 at 4:16 PM 6/13/2005
I pulled the relay (this is the same one I replaced a few days ago) and looked inside and saw a little number 1. I went to that terminal and turned the lights on. I got .02 volts.
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 4:18 PM 6/13/2005 make sure that wire is the orange one your testing. The numbers on top of the relay dont represent the terminal locations.
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 6:25 PM 6/13/2005 If you are sure that terminal was the orange wire the next thing your gonna test is the diode pack located behind your pocket below your radio. once you get 2 it you will see the 2 wires you have been testing on one end of the diode pack[orange with black tracer and orange]. with it still together back probe the wires and check for power again. this is the part I believe has failed. if you see power on one side but not the other this is your failed part, you can either swap it from your parts unit or you can jumper those 2 wires to test it, if your lights now work you need to permanantly replace that diode pack.
if you dont have power on either side post back.
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:Danrc30 at 7:38 PM 6/13/2005
Ok, I just took it apart and saw that I wasn't testing the orange wire. I did test it and when I turned the lights on I got 0 volts.
I then took my radio out and lookd for the black box behind the pocket, but I couldn't find it anywhere. Do you have any pics of what it looks like and where it's located?
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 8:21 PM 6/13/2005
Its not a black box, it looks like a connector with a plug in it. if you look at it from the end it looks like it has a bunch of arrows on it.
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:Danrc30 at 8:44 PM 6/13/2005 YES! THAT WAS IT!!! IT WORKS... IT WORKS!!!!!!!! HAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!! WOOOOHOOOO!!!!! YOU DA BOMB!!!!
Now, I gotta ask you this... at what point did you know that was my problem? Did I have to tear all of those other things apart to figure it out, or could we have switched that in the beginning to see if that was the problem?
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 8:53 PM 6/13/2005
I knew right before you rechecked the relay under the hood the last time.
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 8:54 PM 6/13/2005 More when you tested the headlight switch and told me it had power out of that line and the time control unit didnt I suspected it right then. They dont usually go out.
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 9:07 PM 6/13/2005 Yes you had to tear all that apart to test the circuit to find out, I try to stay away from guessing when I am unsure of the problem with a car because it can cost the customer money, so I will spend a little more time then what the customer was estimated, especialy if I am unsure of how long it will take me to find the problem. I know you have a car you can rip parts off of to fix this one but sometimes that can take longer then the testing will. Doing the test through the forums took quite some time but in real world cicumstances I would have found that problem in less then an hour.
Question for you now though. Do you feel more confident in your circuit testing skills? do you understand what you were testing and why? other then the whole picture, I mean why you were testing that particular wire. If you under stand what it was you were doing you will most definitly be able to takle something like this in the future with much more ease and likely with out assistance as long as you have a diagram and know how to trace the power flow of the circuit.
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:Danrc30 at 9:16 PM 6/13/2005
Ok, I know how to use a meter and find voltages and stuff, but I have a hard time reading wiring diagrams. I just haven't developed an aptitude for it yet and I get lost. I think I need someone to show me in person what to look for and how to troubleshoot. I did figure out on my own the other day that the retract relay was bad. I used the diagram and solved the problem... I'm just not very confident in this area.
I took that piece apart and I saw where it burnt out on the lil circuit board. Lil piece of crap... I have no idea why it's there and why they put it where they did. Often Nissan engineering makes no sense.
I now see exactly what you were doing, but I wouldn't have been able to follow that myself by using the book mainly because I had no idea where those parts were that we were testing...
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 9:20 PM 6/13/2005
That part is there to prevent back feed voltage when another feed is put into that wire. It acts as a gate only allowing voltage to flow one way. back in the 90's the engineers had a hard on for those things, they are all over the car. They still use them today but far fewer of them.
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:Danrc30 at 9:26 PM 6/13/2005 Ah... I see... Well, I'm extremely happy now that they work properly. Thanks so much for the help. If you need any parts, I'll see if I can hook you up. I still have some stuff left... white 93 hatchback...
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 9:30 PM 6/13/2005 Drivers power window master switch?
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:Danrc30 at 9:43 PM 6/13/2005 Sorry, car came with manual windows... it was a bottom line car. I just got it for a 5-speed tranny swap from the auto that came in mine.
I'll see if I can find you one though...
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 5:02 AM 6/14/2005
Nah dont sweat it man, mine works, I am just missing the black cap over the passenger switch. Its really not that big a deal. I appreciate it though.
Post Title: Re: (Danrc30) Posted by:onosqv at 10:59 AM 6/15/2005
Quote, originally posted by Danrc30 »
YES! THAT WAS IT!!! IT WORKS... IT WORKS!!!!!!!! HAAAAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!! WOOOOHOOOO!!!!! YOU DA BOMB!!!!
Now, I gotta ask you this... at what point did you know that was my problem? Did I have to tear all of those other things apart to figure it out, or could we have switched that in the beginning to see if that was the problem?
Can you take a pic of that bad boy? I'm having your exact same problem & was trying to follow your steps.
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:onosqv at 11:04 AM 6/15/2005
Quote, originally posted by NISTECH »
Drivers power window master switch?
Do you need just the switch & not the bezel? I may have the switch (bezel is cracked) - - I'm so excited I'm gonna pull my car apart tonite... maybe even @ lunch - finally, lights that go up correctly, hehheehhehehehehe. Been looking for this answer for MONTHS!
Post Title: Re: (brokeAs240sx) Posted by:Danrc30 at 11:05 AM 6/15/2005
If you mean the part I had to replace, a pic won't help unfortunately. This is because it's hidden under either a semi-clear plastic sheathing, or under black electrical tape. In both cars, the part was taped to another part of the wiring harness under and intertwined with the climate control unit's wiring harness. If you really dig deep back there, you should find it. When you uncover it, you'll see it's blue with a clear cap on the end and a bunch of arrows on it just like nissan mechanic said.
Hope that helps. Let me know if you find it...
Post Title: Re: (Danrc30) Posted by:onosqv at 1:06 PM 6/15/2005
Is it a blue plug w/ 6 wires? orange, orange w/ black tracer, 2 red ones, 1 pink one, 1 yellow one?
And connected to it should be a blue relay thing-a-ma-bobber?
The orange & orange w/ black tracer should be jumpered together right? I get power on one and not the other.
If so, I found my problem... had to remove that for the s13 digital climate control install.
Post Title: Re: (brokeAs240sx) Posted by:Danrc30 at 7:40 PM 6/15/2005
I'm not positive on all of the wire colors, but if you remove the semi-clear cap on the "blue-thingy" you'll see a tiny circuitboard. One of the lines on mine was burnt out. Take a look at that and if you see a burnt spot, you know yours is bad.
Post Title: Re: (Danrc30) Posted by:onosqv at 8:21 PM 6/15/2005 AND FIXED!!!!!! hoo hoo hoo.
And now to my other back feeding/power issues...
Post Title: Re: (brokeAs240sx) Posted by:NISTECH at 10:56 PM 6/15/2005
Quote, originally posted by brokeAs240sx »
Do you need just the switch & not the bezel? I may have the switch (bezel is cracked) - - I'm so excited I'm gonna pull my car apart tonite... maybe even @ lunch - finally, lights that go up correctly, hehheehhehehehehe. Been looking for this answer for MONTHS!
Yep just the switches the bezel on mine is fine.
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:Danrc30 at 11:48 AM 6/27/2005
Ok, now I'm REALLY ANNOYED!!! The right (passenger) headlight stopped going down again! (I guess you could say it's "stuck up" ) I already replaced the grey relay on the passenger side under the hood. The drivers side goes up and down as it should when the switch is turned on. What could be causing this now?!?!?!
Post Title: Re: (Danrc30) Posted by:onosqv at 12:15 PM 6/27/2005 Maybe your car just likes winking .
You're going to have to go through all that wiring test stuff Nistech taught you, haha.
So your passenger light will go up? but not down (i.e. you set it down manually, then it will pop up correctly)?
By now, you might as well rerun your own wires to the damn headlights, .
**EDIT: yea, Nistech, can't find the switches, o well .
Post Title: Re: (brokeAs240sx) Posted by:Danrc30 at 12:21 PM 6/27/2005
I haven't set it down manually... No way am I rewiring this car... that's a recipe for disaster! I't gotta be something stupid like another small part or relay that went bad.
---hoping nistech will once again come to the rescue...
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 12:48 PM 6/27/2005
pull the cap off the motor and manually crank it down. Make sure your lights and retract switchs are in the down position when you do it. If you start cranking it and it takes off on you and goes down. retry the switches and see if it starts functioning again. It may be the contacts in the motor are bad. If thats it swap the motor from the other car to this one.
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:Danrc30 at 1:06 PM 6/27/2005 I think my car either has a mind of its own, or it's possessed. Since it looks stupid with one headlight up, I just kept both up by using the switch on the dashboard. I just went out to try your method. I hit the switch and the drivers side went down right away, which was followed shortly by the passenger side. So now it's an intermittent problem. Does this mean the motor is on its way out?
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 5:26 PM 6/27/2005 Yep sounds like the motor has a poor connection internally since both lights use the same signal to go up or down.
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:Danrc30 at 7:50 PM 6/27/2005 Can I open up the motor and repair the faulty connection?
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 8:50 PM 6/27/2005 I have neer ripped one open but its probably possible just becarful with it as there are small parts in it.
Post Title: Re: passenger headlight won't go down again... Posted by:Danrc30 at 6:42 AM 7/20/2005 Ok, the headlight stopped going down again. I cranked it down several times and it pops up when I hit the lights but it won't go down at all on its own. I even tried using another motor and the same thing happens. I think I've ruled out a faulty motor. What else could it be?
(I used to love pop up headlights... )
---Dan
Modified by Danrc30 at 9:01 PM 7/20/2005
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 7:01 PM 7/20/2005
ok in your factory air cleaner area there is a black relay box sitting down in there. Find retract relay number 2. turn your head lights off and if your passenger head lamp is still up give that relay a little thump and see if the light goes down. If it does you have a bad relay.
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 7:08 PM 7/20/2005 Scratch that, looked at the wrong diagram sorry.Give me a bit, I think you have a connection problem somewhere, cause according to the circuit operation the only thing it could be is a motor. But I have to look at wiring diagrams to determine where the connectors all are.
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 7:46 PM 7/20/2005 ARGE!! I looked at the diagram and there are no connectors between the splice that feeds terminal 2 of the motors. So break out the volt meter and operate the lights to the down position. You should see 12 volts on terminal 2 [purple with white tracer wire. If you see voltage there it is your motor.
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:Danrc30 at 7:41 AM 7/23/2005
Quote, originally posted by NISTECH »
ARGE!! I looked at the diagram and there are no connectors between the splice that feeds terminal 2 of the motors. So break out the volt meter and operate the lights to the down position. You should see 12 volts on terminal 2 [purple with white tracer wire. If you see voltage there it is your motor.
Finally got a chace to check it... I'm getting 5 volts on the purple wire with white tracer when the lights are in the down position.
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 7:51 AM 7/23/2005
on both of them? or just the one that wont go down?
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:Danrc30 at 9:49 PM 7/23/2005
Quote, originally posted by NISTECH »
on both of them? or just the one that wont go down?
I only checked the one that won't go down...
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 10:24 PM 7/23/2005
Check the other I am curious to see if it is getting full power or only partial.
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:Danrc30 at 9:49 AM 7/25/2005 I get .03A on the drivers side light purple wire with white stripe when lights are down.
The kick in the a$$ is after I reconnected the passenger side light, it started working again! It's gotta be a problem in that plug... right?
Post Title: Posted by:CaoBoY at 11:24 AM 7/25/2005
sounds like you need a silvia front conversion, that would solve ur problems!
Post Title: Re: (CaoBoY) Posted by:Danrc30 at 11:45 AM 7/25/2005
Quote, originally posted by CaoBoY »
sounds like you need a silvia front conversion, that would solve ur problems!
How nice of you to offer... when should I expect delivery?
Post Title: Re: (Danrc30) Posted by:NISTECH at 5:52 PM 7/25/2005
Quote, originally posted by Danrc30 »
I get .03A on the drivers side light purple wire with white stripe when lights are down.
The kick in the a$$ is after I reconnected the passenger side light, it started working again! It's gotta be a problem in that plug... right?
Yep or the wires in the immediate area.
Post Title: Re: (Danrc30) Posted by:CaoBoY at 12:40 AM 7/26/2005
Quote, originally posted by Danrc30 »
How nice of you to offer... when should I expect delivery?
nistech can get you one, he owes me! lol i gave him my tranny for free, maybe he can spread the givingness and give you one! lol sorryi couldnt help, htats about all i can do. good luck though!
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 6:38 AM 7/26/2005 LOL yeah and that trans is still sitting right where I set it in my garage the day I brought it home. As I look around in my garage I dont seem to have any silvia clips sittin around though.
Post Title: Posted by:ma61_84 at 12:07 AM 9/25/2005 ive got this problem too only mine is much worse, the plastic connector that goes behind the headlight is melting at the connection. if i remove the second to last relay located near the air filter they pop up but then i have no power to the headlight. after taking it to an auto electrician they have stuffed it up even more now they dont pop up at all even with the relay removed. so frustrating. can anyone help?
Post Title: Posted by:ma61_84 at 7:10 AM 9/29/2005 nistech if ur out there i need ur help, ive got the same problem as Dan, if u could explain in easy to understand format i would really appreciate it thanks
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 6:24 PM 9/29/2005 Man the way you got it is the simplest way I can could give it to ya. The circuit is very complex , It has multiple functions and uses the time control unit to determine head light location and direction of travel. My first suggestion would be to correct the melted socket. Then check your grounds at the motor brakets , make sure they are clean and secure.
Post Title: Posted by:ma61_84 at 1:29 AM 9/30/2005 yeah ive checked the grounds and replaced the socket, is the blue relay behind the radio stuffed? is it the one with the plastic cover and have a square shape? do i replace this relay? cheers. ps my msn is 'sna1980@hotmail.com' if u could help me fix it i would really be grateful
Post Title: Posted by:NISTECH at 4:42 AM 9/30/2005 I dont use messenger. I think what your looking for behind the radio is the Diode pack. It just looks like a connector with a blind plug in it. It may be wrapped in tape along the harness. Once you get a visual of the connector there are little symbols on the blind connector side of it. they look like little triangles whith a line going across the point of the triangle.
Post Title: Re: Headlights won't pop up... (s13sr20chris) Posted by:abross at 5:40 PM 7/1/2007 Where did you find the diagram? And is there any way to get more diagrams on the internet?
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:jjanes123 at 7:56 PM 8/10/2007 I saw this old post and I was wondering if you could help. I am having the same problem with the headlights but I am also not getting any signals to include hazards. could that same voltage regulator be the issue? I am going to replace the swith on the steering wheel but I don't believe thats the problem. Any help
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:sleepersilvia92 at 3:58 PM 6/23/2008 is there any relays that would cause the gauge cluster to not light up
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:Andy65 at 8:21 PM 9/11/2008 Hi Nistech - if you're avail I was hoping you might help please! I enabled a kill switch that no-one knows how to operate and now I can't start my car. I'd like to remove it completely and perhaps install another at a later date.
No-one remembers how to activate/deactivate this switch, so after buying this car last month, I've been driving it with the intention of one day removing this switch. I was following your procedure to get my headlamps working (great post by the way) and you prob guessed by now - my connect/disconnect of various connectors under the dash led to reactivating this switch.
If you're able to help (I would really appreciate it), just let me know what you would need pictures of. Regards, Andy
Post Title: Re: (Andy65) Posted by:Andy65 at 4:58 PM 9/12/2008
No worries - I was able to do it. It was a key-pad kill switch. I just traced all the wires and started to remove all keypad wires. In the end, I was just left with Ignition wires which were easy to match up.
Works good now. Andy
Post Title: Re: (Danrc30) Posted by:Andy65 at 6:48 PM 9/16/2008
Good Job!! I walked through this tutorial and was able to follow the current to the #4 relay. Power was going in the orange but nothing going out the purple or brown. Before looking for the relay, I connected the orange to the brown (after pulling the relay) and the right headlight popped up. I'm going to get the relay tomorrow and hopefully all works. Regards, Andy
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:Andy65 at 7:34 PM 9/17/2008 OK Now I'm confused and need help please. If anyone can offer some advice - I would really appreciate it. Here's my problem with the headlights: The headlights illuminate when I use the headlight switch but the lights don't pop up. I traced the power as was mentioned in this article - the orange wire going into #4 relay was at 10.44 when the lights were on but nothing was on the brown or purple wires coming out of the #4 relay. I thought it was a relay problem so I bought a new one from our local Nissan dealer and no luck. If I bypass the relay by pulling it out and placing a connection from orange to brown, both headlight motors work and the lights pop up then turn on nicely - but that's it. I have to manually take them down, then start tracing all over again. Is there something I'm missing - am I looking in the wrong place? Please help if you can.
Post Title: Re: (Andy65) Posted by:Andy65 at 10:24 PM 9/18/2008 Fixed!! I knew it had something to do with retractable relay# 4 in the box just behind the battery. After extensive testing and studying the FSM wiring diagrams, it turned out to be that purple wire had no power. I realized the relay needed power from the purple to operate, so I traced it back to the fusible link in the same box. These are hard to see if their broken, even if you pull them out. Anyways, after pulling out the link and creating my own (with wires), lights worked perfectly. I'll be going tomorrow and get myself a link to fit in here. Whew!!
Post Title: Posted by:Crazian609 at 10:08 PM 10/28/2008 First Off I would like to Thank Nistech for all the help... I got pretty good using the volt meter... BUT I STILL NEED HELP...
After doing everything like u said testing votage from the switch to the Relays and Diode pack.. Everything tested A OK.. Power to everything.. my problem is my RET MTR Fuse located in the Fuse box next to the bat. It pops every time I try to push the Headlight Master button. My headlights Do go up and down if I jump the two connectors (Ya i know thats stupid cause itll eventually burn other things) But i got axious to try.. So I know everything is working UP to that point...
My hypothesis is that my wire to that fuse is grounding out... The car is completly stock.. Never lowered so Tire rubbage is not possible to the harness on the Driverside fender... Thing Is I dont know where that wire runs to Were it connects to. Were to start to test. The wire color to the RET MTR 25a Fuse Is solid purple correct?
Can you tell me were this wire connects to? Instead of me trying to find were it is grounding out.. I plan on rewiring this Wire Hence... Ghetto Rig it cause tracing this thing is a effen pain... Thank You for your help.
EDITED: OK today I got more into it... It wasnt the purple wire that was grounding out... That wire Leads all the way to the purple on the master switch... That wire should get a constant 12volt current... What I did find was the Solid green wire on the master switch was the one grounding out... When I Pull the terminal outta the plug It no longer pops my RET MTR 25amp fuse... And it does Make my head lights go up... But not down.. I traced that Green wire back to the Fuse box were ur HL Down and HL relays are... it connects to the HL Down relay.... That wire even though its unpluged is getting a constant 12 volts.. and it looks partly melted..... So again...
Were does this Solid GREEN wire connect to? so I can route my own wire around that?
Modified by Crazian609 at 5:14 PM 10/30/2008
Post Title: Re: (Crazian609) Posted by:underground_army at 6:26 PM 11/21/2008
ok here i go im stuck i tried to follow u guys and i did but everything is ok with my wires and relays and fuses also my lights wont go up or down they stay there since i tried to do sleepy eyes and i got a spark so help me out here
Post Title: Re: (underground_army) Posted by:richiev8s13 at 5:20 PM 1/15/2009 i have a smae proble but my lights dont go up they come down if i manualy crank them up and the diode pack has no burn marks on it and the low and high beams work but when i flick the high beams the head light dont go up either fuse is good also
Post Title: Re: (richiev8s13) Posted by:underground_army at 11:39 AM 1/17/2009 having the same problem and still cant figure out anything i wish i can help you out but i cant
Post Title: Re: (underground_army) Posted by:cole d at 11:43 AM 6/25/2009 Did any of you guys get your problems resolved my headlight won't pop up or down. They come on just fine though I've read through everything and tested almost everything with no luck. Please help
Post Title: Re: (NISTECH) Posted by:cole d at 9:52 AM 6/26/2009
Quote, originally posted by NISTECH »
The difference in operation between the 3 modes of opening is the time control unit recieves a signal on terminal 3 when turning the headlights from parking lights to headloghts[the point at which the motors are suppose to operate to up] In the other 2 choices it does not send a signal to that terminal. BUT that circuit also uses its own fuse. so you need to look at the fuse too. Note though that fuse supposedly also powers your marker and tail lights. Still check to make sure the 3rd fuse up on the right side of your fuse box in the drivers kick panel has power on both sides when the switch is turned on. It is a 15 amp fuse. If it does go to the time control unit and do the same test on terminal #3 with the switch turned to the on position. The timer is located in the drivers kick panel, and its black not the colors I mentioned before. When you pull the kick panel trim off you will see 2 controllers one white and one black. the one further in is black, that is the unit your after.
Alright guys I'm at this step and I don't have power to the right side of the fuse located in the driver kick panel any suggestions ?????
Post Title: Re: (underground_army) Posted by:TOYROCKSTAR at 1:16 PM 8/4/2009
ok on my 240sx the headlights won't go down i have to set them down manually, they do pop up. help anyone thanks
Post Title: Re: (TOYROCKSTAR) Posted by:dbrass240 at 6:56 PM 8/4/2009 its your headlight switch (the one that comes off the steering column)
I had the same problem and ordered a new one from advanced auto and it works fine now . . .
Post Title: Re: (dbrass240) Posted by:Sway5000 at 12:22 PM 8/12/2009
Im currently following this thread as well. My headlights will flip up when the button is pushed or when the brights are flashed but not when I just turn the headlights on. They will not go down my pushing the switch either. I have done everything almost. I have power at the fuse and at the red-blue wire at the timer. I dont have power on the orange wire at the timer nor at terminal 26 at the switch. When I backprobe the orange wires at the diode one has like 0.18V and the other has zero. I have not had a chance to check at the h/l retract 4 relay because its raining outside and I dont want to get shocked. Whats next?
Post Title: Re: (Sway5000) Posted by:Sway5000 at 1:57 PM 8/12/2009 Ok when I checked the orange wire at h/l retract 4 I had the same 0V with the h/l off and 0.18V when the headlights are on. The Purple wire had 12V at it. I have no idea what or where to go from here. Please help!
Post Title: Re: Headlights won't pop up... (Danrc30) Posted by:danielitogon at 8:18 AM 10/14/2009 while yours wont pop up, mine wont go down. i was messing with my radio one day trying to get some tweeters connected when i saw a cable hanging there. it unfortunately touched metal and, well you know what happened. i traced that cable back to where its origins where, and to my surprise, it was an old alarm system the car used to have. if anyone has any suggestions as to how to get the lights down, or what to do with that alarm box thingy, i would appreciate it.
Post Title: Posted by:mick at 3:58 PM 10/14/2009 Each motor has a knob you can turn to raise or lower the lights
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- I'm so excited I'm gonna pull my car apart tonite... maybe even @ lunch - finally, lights that go up correctly, hehheehhehehehehe. Been looking for this answer for MONTHS!
you'll see a tiny circuitboard. One of the lines on mine was burnt out. Take a look at that and if you see a burnt spot, you know yours is bad. 
) I already replaced the grey relay on the passenger side under the hood. The drivers side goes up and down as it should when the switch is turned on. What could be causing this now?!?!?! 
) 
