so heres what I've done thus far to the car/engine.
engine:
1990 vh45de unknown mileage
new timing chain guides (bank one was in the pan)
new gaskets
spray bombed valve covers
just general clean up
chassis:
1991 240sx se coupe w/ working hud
awesome faded to hell maaco paint job (with paint chipping action when heat is applied!)
decent interior but gross carpet
I'll post up a running tally on parts and total cost but the chassis was 500$ and the engine and all accessories needed to make it run was 250$.
Post Title: Re: my vh project! (Carl H)
Posted by: Yellow4g63 at 7:12 PM 6/16/2008
Nick.
Post Title:
Posted by: Mettler at 9:46 PM 6/16/2008
shoot me an email w/ your number.
Post Title: Re: (Carl H)
Posted by: SuperHatch at 7:36 AM 6/17/2008
You can still get good gas mileage on 720cc injectors if it's tuned well.
Post Title: Re: my vh project! (Jeff Taylor)
Posted by: Carl H at 3:50 PM 6/21/2008
| Quote, originally posted by Jeff Taylor » |
| Nice paint scheme! You can still get good gas mileage on 720cc injectors if it's tuned well. |
also began to convert to 5 lug, fitted my hybrid hubs and j30/q45 front brakes to stop this thing...everyone knows std brakes are terrible on the s13.
check out this link http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/346514 for info on the hybrid front hubs.
will be fitting q45 5lug rear/lsd soon as i have time to go back to the junkyard and pull them.
Post Title: Re: (Carl H)
Posted by: hannibal at 6:06 PM 6/21/2008
| Quote, originally posted by Carl H » |
| actually im going hybrid bellhousing and using the ka trans... |
More info on this please...
Post Title:
Posted by: Carl H at 2:02 PM 7/25/2008
So came time to test fit the flywheel, and to my suprise worked quite well dispite the center hole bore being the same size as the vh's crank...nothing a quick hit with a sanding drum couldnt fix and it cleaned up bore nicely with still proper clearance.
what i had feared would happen did, and this is because i am choosing to use the ka trans and the block mounted starter, the flywheel is spaced too far out for the starter teeth to engage due to the z32 trans having a trans mounted starter.
after taking a break and looking at several different sr flywheels i came to the conclusion that about 5mm of material needed to be removed from the machined spacer of the flywheel...nothing a machine shop cant fix, decided to keep a 1mm 'step' to keep crank mounting directly in line with the flywheel ring gear.
I suspect that an sr20det kit will bolt right on with no issues but most sr kits are not capable of holding the vh's torque output, i also suspect that the z32 pp and clutch disc can be used on an sr flywheel but i have no way of verifiying this.
a common problem among nissan auto to manual swaps is the fact that some people overlook the fact that the autotrans converter bearing must be removed in order for a proper manual box bearing to be fitted, unfortunately i do not have a pic of this but it can be clearly seen in the crank pictures of the flywheel.
here is a picture of the manual pilot bearing and the auto converter bearing side by side:
here is the crank with the auto converter bearing removed:
and here is a picture of the crank with the manual bearing fitted:
as you can see there are differences in the diamaters of the bearings the auto one is slightly smaller than the manual's outer, so you need to remove this regardless, no need to grind down the manual pilot bushing to fit the auto bearing just remove the auto bearing.
thats it for now while the flywheel is turned, engine and trans will be comming out of teh s13 this weekend so look for an update then.
Post Title:
Posted by: midnightsliding at 2:28 PM 7/25/2008
fruits of my labour thus far:
fellow nico fourm member and good friend Bronze MFP showing us whats up:
next step was to refit the dust sheild for the time being to make sure that everything was kosher and to give an accurate measurement for spacing of the trans to block...easy here.
We also made sure that the engine was as level as possible to ensure good mock fitment, i ASSUME that in the q45 that the engine sits level but some clarification would be great so i dont cut and weld only to find out that its wrong...we also test fitted the trans and low and behold it slid right on with very little effort or issue.
After fitting the trans i realized that it wasnt being driven home all the way, after much inspection it appeared that the vh crank while drilled for a manual pilot bushing was not drilled deep enough for the ka input shaft, measuring the gap between the trans and the dust sheild yeiled a measurement of approx .14".
i then measured out .16" on the dial caliper and proceded to cut and grind down the appropriate ammount of material adding a taper for guidance when done; came out nicely and trans slides home with no effort now.
gap between bellhousing and trans:
modifying the input shaft:
modified input shaft, fits perfectly!
fitment against block, spot on...
the final task at hand is to figure out how to level the trans, i had guessed that the trans was tilted approx 5* and measurement showed it was tilted 6*, damn im good.
also dont mind the fisher-price protractor, my good one seems to have gone missing...
drilling a new 'pilot' hole allows for the trans to be leveled but will be cut out when i begin to section the trans...that is currently in planning stages.
backside shot of the assembly:
enjoy hopefuly i'll have an update monday on the flywheel and clutch install then its engine mount time!
Post Title:
Posted by: Bronze MFP at 6:14 PM 7/26/2008
.
after bolting the flywheel up and finding that it was fouling on the oilpan i realized that i ether a) had to buy a new flywheel or b) reuse the vh spacer from the flexplate...i chose 'b' as im a bit broke at this point; ended up working out ok tho with just the right clearance for decent starter engagement of the ringgear as well as clearance from the back of the block.
Now what sucks about using arp hardware is it might be fine if you're using a stock flywheel or otherwise un modified but since i decided to go with the arp honda clutch cover bolts as well as the pinto flywheel bolts i had to grind down the flywheel bolts since they were now too long and tap all the way thru the back of the flywheel...either way it sucked to the nth due to the flywheel being 'chrome moly' and the arp bolts being chrome moly 4rlz, gotta love metals that work harden.
about 3 threads removed:
used some brakeclean to clean all the bolts of grease and dirt and installed the flywheel with some locktite blue, torqued flywheel to 69ft/lbs and the clutch cover to 33ft/lbs.
flywheel bolted on:
final assembly:
the z32 flywheel is significantly larger than the stock ka, which doesnt make too much sense since the z32 clutch fits on the rb20/25 flywheel wich will bolt to the ka...no idea why but it is what it is, so the inner bellhousing required some clearancing to refit to the engine, however i dont have pictures of that as i called it a night.
stay tuned for tommorows update and with any luck a completed hybrid bell housing!
Post Title: Re: (Carl H)
Posted by: elwesso at 6:00 AM 7/30/2008
Good job man.
Post Title: Re: (Carl H)
Posted by: SuperHatch at 4:48 AM 7/31/2008
| Quote, originally posted by Carl H » |
| after bolting the flywheel up and finding that it was fouling on the oilpan i realized that i ether a) had to buy a new flywheel or b) reuse the vh spacer from the flexplate...i chose 'b' as im a bit broke at this point; ended up working out ok tho with just the right clearance for decent starter engagement of the ringgear as well as clearance from the back of the block. |
It's funny carl. I had the exact same issue with my custom flexplate. The flexplate itself fit great, but the torque conveter bolt heads were catching the corners of the oil pan. I ended up ordering new ARP hardware with low profile bolt heads. I'll still need to do some grinding on the block (maybe 0.100") to get sufficient clearance, but I guess this is the price we pay for going custom.
Either way, looks great, can't wait to see the finished product.
Post Title: Re: (Carl H)
Posted by: maxnix at 7:56 AM 7/31/2008
| Quote, originally posted by Carl H » |
| actually im going hybrid bellhousing and using the ka trans...no sense in spending 500-800$ on a z32 trans setup if the ka box can hold 300ftlbs of torque just fine and it comes with the car |
I like how it's coming along. Keep us updated.
Post Title: Re: (Carl H)
Posted by: l0nestar at 2:08 PM 7/31/2008
| Quote, originally posted by Carl H » |
|
I can only assume that you removed the last bit of threads sticking up, didn't you? 
Good work man!
... And what is with you NC guys and wearing sandals while working on cars? wear some shoes or work boots!!! Geeze!
Post Title:
Posted by: Carl H at 7:10 PM 7/31/2008
first section of the bellhousing, most important as it will locate the trans for the rest of the mouting...
trans bolted on awaiting second section, alignment is still good.
second section and modified bellhousing, notice large gaps from differences in bellhousing diamaters.
quick shot of the ringgear and one spot on the trans that needs more grinding for good clearance.
second section welded along with first section:
trans bolted to engine, she's quite snug and fits well...
all welds were reinforced from the back as well, so dont worry there.
did i mention that i hate welding aluminum?
on a side note i also got this awesome sunburn from welding, for those who dont know when you weld it generates a shistload of uv radiation, its akin to having your arm 6 inches from the corona of the sun...
thats it for now, hopefuly final section will go on tommorow and testfitting will begin this weekend.
Post Title: Re: (Carl H)
Posted by: Jeff Williams at 4:51 AM 8/1/2008
Welding aluminum is not so bad, but the gaps you are filling are huge!
Post Title: Re: (Jeff Williams)
Posted by: elwesso at 6:17 AM 8/1/2008
here is a pic of the bellhousing mounted on 4 of the 6 bolts, needed to see where i needed to section for the last and hardest part of the sectioning: the starter bulge.
front end view of the final product, yes its messy i know.
rear view of the same:
trans mounts to the engine nicely, i was lucky that i checked several times while fitting the trans to ensure flush fitment, its pretty good but i feel that i could have done better with it.
overall assembly:
back shot of the overall assembly, note breather hose and extended bits for the starter bulge due to bellhousing diamater differences.
clutch fork engages within an 1/8" of movement so i feel that it should be just fine in the car, when i mock mount the engine/trans for engine mount fab i'll bolt the slave up to make sure it actuates properly; would be very sad if it didnt.
overall it was about 8-10hrs worth of work and kind of a pita, would i do it again?
proly not but if the trans blows i can always source out another ka box cheap and reuse the bellhousing or ball out for the mazworx adaptor plate.
anyluck i'll be able to testfit the engine tommorow if it doesnt rain.
Post Title:
Posted by: Carl H at 6:22 PM 8/3/2008
be sure to check to make sure that there isnt a bronze mfp in the engine bay, they can cause all kinds of trouble:
intial drop in, yes i am standing on the transmission.
in the bay...kinda
the oil pan looked nummahs according to neil, i said it was proly axle grease.
measuring from the trans mount forward for fitment ideas...best idea of the day!
thats it for now, check tommorow for possible updates.
Post Title: Re: (Carl H)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 6:35 PM 8/3/2008
removed the battery tray and all 50 spotwelds holding it in place, began to mark off for alternator clearance:
frame rail cut:
quick shot of the engine in the car, not bolted in but resting on the ac compressor bracket...will have to be cut off for proper clearance.
suspention droop is not apparent, car appears to sit HIGHER than with the ka in place,odd to say the least.
front shot of the engine to the radiator support, again good clearance here.
alternator and clearanced rail...
oil filter fouling on the frame rail, FAIL!
shot of the rear of the trans bellhousing, ample clearance around the bellhousing so much that i could change the clutch in car.
while the engine was mock fitted into the car the slave was bolted up to the trans, aside from the normal pedal adjustment required for good feel the clutch engaged and disengaged smoothly with no issues.
i suspect next time the engine goes in i'll have a large majority of the stuff needed for modifications marked, clearnaced, and/or cut...so with any luck it will be headder fab time.
Post Title: Re: (Carl H)
Posted by: SuperHatch at 4:40 PM 8/5/2008
I did manage to box in the frame rails ala superhatch's setup...came out ok but for some reason the welder wasnt feeding the wire smoothly so i had to go over the welds in some places a few times; frusturating as i spent more time grinding material back down than i did welding it in.
spraybomb primer for now, just to keep it from rusting.
where i cut on the ac bracket:
Post Title:
Posted by: DriftingisLame at 7:46 PM 8/6/2008
Cool project, Do you have any thoughts on the difference in weight between this engine, and your RB20, or the KA that came out of it?
Post Title: questions
Posted by: ramper at 7:55 PM 8/9/2008
2.was budget the only reason you decided to go with the altered ka tranny or was there anything else like fitment involved?
3. Have you noticed any clearance issues with the brake booster?
Im very interested in your progress u have revealed some things I didnt know I was going to have to tackle but like they say what cant u put in a 240 lol. 
Post Title: Re: questions (ramper)
Posted by: anyotherone at 4:00 PM 8/10/2008
I ended up with an Origin hood that adds an extra 1 1/2" due to it's design and I've cut the filler off.
Post Title:
Posted by: Carl H at 9:53 PM 8/10/2008
First a few pics of the clearanced frame rails for the alternator and oil filter...alternator has just enough and the oil filter loads; however this will help when changing filters as you need some space to maneuver the old one out and the new one on.
Unfortunately when i install an oilcooler i'll also be relocating the filter so at that point it will have become redundant.
Alternator shot, note moved fusebox.
oil filter:
due to placement of the engine using the ka trans there is LOADS of space behind the engine, so much that you can change the clutch with the engine in the car.
not that intend to do so...
front shot of pulley placement, as center as i could get it.
oil pan clearance of the crossmember, it sits a touch lower than the actual crossmember but its better than having it hang an inch or more below it...chopping hood is perfered over loosing all my oil if i bottom out.
quick shot of the engine mount adaptor plates to use the vh engine mounts and mount plates with the ka crossmember, very VERY simple and VERY effective.
engine in the car and on the mounts loaded up, will be pulled out and painted but needed to make sure it 'worked' before i went further with them.
to fab your own set of adaptor plates you'll need about 20"l x 3"w x 1/8"t plate steel and length of about 12"l x 3/4"w x 1/8"t.
cut two lengths of the 3" stock about 5.5" long as well as two 3"x3" pieces; you'll also need to cut two lenghts of the 3/4" stock about 5.5" long as well and assemble as shown.
you'll need to drill holes for the ka xmember and access holes but that will atleast get you going.
bronze mfp actin a foo and showing us that saftey is coo.
and for the last bit, brake master mock mounted with a mystery booster, first person to correctly guess the booster gets a cookie.
fitment is damn near perfect and is an almost bolt on application...gotta love having a good eye for fitment.
did i mention that it bolts into the factory location and bolt holes with about 1/2" clearance to the head?
any luck i'll have the factory headders on and the car rolling under its own power this week.
Post Title: Re: (Carl H)
Posted by: ramper at 10:07 PM 8/10/2008
| Quote, originally posted by Carl H » |
| quick shot of the engine mount adaptor plates to use the vh engine mounts and mount plates with the ka crossmember, very VERY simple and VERY effective. engine in the car and on the mounts loaded up, will be pulled out and painted but needed to make sure it 'worked' before i went further with them. |
How do you plan on reinforcing these? The Plate->Crossmember bolts are heavily loaded in this configuration. I'm not knocking the design, an adaptor is the easiest solution. However, those bolts and/or the sheet metal they're bolted through will not hold up long under this stress.
Post Title: Re: (SuperHatch)
Posted by: sinfiniti at 6:18 AM 8/13/2008
How do you plan on reinforcing these? The Plate->Crossmember bolts are heavily loaded in this configuration. I'm not knocking the design, an adaptor is the easiest solution. However, those bolts and/or the sheet metal they're bolted through will not hold up long under this stress.[/QUOTE]
^^^ WHS
and why did you cut and shut the trans bell housing so much?
Post Title:
Posted by: Carl H at 1:59 PM 8/14/2008
sinfiniti - no way to chop the bellhousing off in one section or way to refrence the alignment without sectioning the bellhousing...not my favourite mod on the install but its pretty strong and should do fine.
so I've run into a few snags on the install and it looks like i wont have it running by the time i head back to school...sucks but what can you do right?
A majorsetback was the factory headers not clearing the car, the passenger side BARELY clears the frame rail (suprisingly enough) but the drivers comes no where close to fitting even with modifications to the header its self.
issue with the drivers header is the placement of the steering column, there is no space for it...i suspect this is because in the q45 the steering shaft is located a bit further out than on the s13 which makes sense due to the s13's narrower frame rails.
currently chopped the headders off at the collector tube so i can atleast crank the car and make sure the engine/wiring runs.
I did snap a few photos of the mounts and undercar clearance, oil pan is just about on the same level as the xmember which isnt bad but not what i really wanted.
swaybar clearance is tight but there is about 1/8" between the bar and the oil pan.
adaptor plate from the bottom, next revision will have a trangular plate welded between the vh mount bolts and then a piece of flatstock welded to the trangular part to bolt to the xmember. 
i painted the adaptor plates and de-tetanusified the brake booster, it got a quick coat of paint too.
In all of my planning and good eye for estimation i had glanced at the brake booster and thought the studs were alittle shorter than the ones on the s13 booster, the solution was to weld on some short extentions but i decided to go junkyarding again and see what i could find.
ended up finding another booster that was the same size (!) and diementions as the booster i had previously tried to use...except that the mounting studs were as long as the s13 boosters.
the center bore for the master is also the same where the old booster is slighly larger.
shot from the front of the boosters:
back shot of the boosters, notice the shorter studs on the booster located on the far left:
all i got for now, going to try cranking the engine today and see if i cant get it to run.
Post Title: Re: (Carl H)
Posted by: craigztoyz at 2:11 PM 8/14/2008
As in does your computer have a letter l that works? Sorry it made me laugh.
Nice project, we are deffinetly having a TXVH Club soon.
Post Title:
Posted by: Carl H at 5:23 PM 8/14/2008
i found out why the car wouldnt crank even tho i knew the wiring was right...verified that the fuel pump went live at the relay and it does but the pump is seized, look at what fun i found in the tank:
previous owner i am now convinced is/was a FCKIN MORON.
Irritated to say the least, tank is filled with corrosion and rust, gotta locate a new tank.
Post Title: Re: (Carl H)
Posted by: l0nestar at 5:31 PM 8/14/2008
the real news here is that i started the car...and i'll say this open headder is some kind of phenomnal noise.
She didnt take much to fire up but WOULD NOT fire unless i had my dash plug connected; apparently these engines need the ignition start signal to run right.
Started strong with no hesitation after that and settled into a nice smooth idle, not bad for an engine thats been sitting for quite possibly over a year.
blipping the throttle yeilds not only aural delight but also a suprisingly quick revving engine...engine revved up to approx 4k with just a breath of the pedal.
Too bad i have to go back to school tommorow...i'd love to finish the headers and tool around.
Post Title: Re: (Carl H)
Posted by: l0nestar at 10:02 PM 8/16/2008
Congrats man, hopefully you can finish it soon! When is your next weekend home? Labour day?
Post Title:
Posted by: Carl H at 5:25 PM 8/25/2008
under car shot of the driveshaft and trans.
shot of the shifter, it is tilted to the right but I'm 99% sure its due to the drivers header resting on the frame rail since when i originally dropped the engine into the car it was dead center.
filled the trans with oil and the clutch engages and disengages nicely, shifting is a bit notchy but the box has been dry for god knows how long.
plumbing the radiator turned out to be simple...to reroute the lower hose i took the stock bracket and trimmed down the mount tab and flipped it upside down, then bolted it to the head using one of the thru cover bolts...worked very well.
hoses were plumbed using the ka hoses with minor trimming but i'll need a joiner of sorts for the lower hose as can be seen from the pictures; that or a single piece of hose, would be perfered but hard to find.
might be stuck with the stock radiator and stock ac cooling fan for now, a friend has a taurus sho fan which I'll try to mount for ultimate cooling.
front shot:
drivers:
passenger, note the rerouted solid pipe and connection lacking a joiner.
heater hoses, have to use two different sizes due to the differences in s13 and g50 inlets and outlets, clearance is super tight but is there.
watch this space for powersteering magic and headers next week!
Post Title: Re: (Carl H)
Posted by: DJButton at 6:33 PM 8/25/2008
| Quote, originally posted by Carl H » |
| craig - sorry the joke is lost on me, not following. i found out why the car wouldnt crank even tho i knew the wiring was right...verified that the fuel pump went live at the relay and it does but the pump is seized, look at what fun i found in the tank:
|
VERY NICE!
Post Title: Re: (l0nestar)
Posted by: DJButton at 5:17 PM 8/26/2008
| Quote, originally posted by Carl H » |
| I was able to get most of the cooling system figured out tho plumbing the radiator turned out to be simple...to reroute the lower hose i took the stock bracket and trimmed down the mount tab and flipped it upside down, then bolted it to the head using one of the thru cover bolts...worked very well. front shot: drivers: passenger, note the rerouted solid pipe and connection lacking a joiner. |
Carl,
Just trying to give you a heads up. There is no way that the stock radiator and AC fan will keep up with the heat produced by this motor on a hot day. I'm speaking from experience.
My cooling setup is as follows... Koyorad AL race radiator and stock AC fan. I had the lower inlet moved to the other side to ease hose routing and to promote cross core flow, which the KA setup does not. I had a bung welded into the radiator for a thermoswitch that turns the fans on at 190 and off at 170. With the car idling in my driveway, hood up, on an 82 degree day, the fan came on at 190 and never shut off. I watched my coolant temp gauge come down to 182ish from 190 and then stay there. Had the hood been closed or if there was a load on the motor I would have been in trouble. Keep in mind, I don't have a heater core at all, so that reduces my cooling capacity somewhat, but with my much larger than stock radiator I was still in trouble. I'm now looking into a custom shroud on the AC fan. If that doesn't work, it'll be a dual fan setup...
There are two major players in cooling system capacity. Fan CFM and fluid volume. My setup has volume but limited CFM. Yours has neither... start saving the pennies! 
Post Title: Re: (SuperHatch)
Posted by: gs14racer at 6:49 AM 8/27/2008
if you hadn't read it i sudgest that you take a look...
http://home.satx.rr.com/nissan...t.htm
I'll proly use the stock fan/ac fan to get the junk out of the vh's cooling system and make sure its working ok before switching over to a spal fan/aftermarket radiator, as stated in that article and from personal experience i'll be fabbing some airguides for the radiator once it is in and running properly to get the most airflow out of the engine.
also keep in mind with that article that the people who wrote it are using large frontmount intercoolers which block a significant ammount of air...so the results are not exactly comprable to the non turbo vh.
Post Title: Re: (Carl H)
Posted by: SuperHatch at 9:33 AM 8/27/2008
| Quote, originally posted by Carl H » |
in the grand scheme of things radiator size only affects heat saturation, you can only shed about 10*f of heat thru a radiator at any given time from the time the water enters the inlet till it exits...the overall width and subsequently its capacity only dictates how long it will take before it completely heatsoaks. |
I completely agree with everything you've said with the exception of this point. While the water pump flowrate vrs RPM curve dictates the radiator inlet and outlet flowrates, the size of the core dictates the flow velocity within the core. If that "x GPM" flow entering the inlet now has twice as many cores to flow through, the velocity within the cores will be halved.
Convective heat transfer increases with velocity, so we reduce the transfer rate out of the coolant into the radiator body by increasing the number of cores. However, since the coolant is flowing slower the air passing over the radiator has more time to cool each part of the fluid. So while larger radiators most certainly increase the total thermal capacity of the cooling system, they can increase efficiency as well.
Edit: I just read that page you linked, and I'm going to refrain from commenting on it.
Modified by SuperHatch at 9:50 AM 8/27/2008
Post Title:
Posted by: Carl H at 6:36 PM 8/31/2008
raw materials pile, the exhaust is the super cheap ss autochrome 200$ shipped to your door special...cheaper than buying a muffler and piping to suit with a largeish center resonator and two individual mufflers it should be quite nice.
Sounds good on a friends ka so i'd imagine it will do fine on the vh.
for what its worth the finish is nice but fitment is absolute crap, piping is in the right place but the hangers are not; still not a hard fix.
here we are with the header just about finished and bolted to the head:
welding up the collector,took a while to fill in the large gap in the middle.
completed header with me looking like a total loon, dad insisted on a smile.
back shot of the header with me looking less than enthused:
for those of you who have kept up with nick's thread (who hasn't?) you'll remember that he sourced out a maxima powersteering pump.
Since the stock vh pump will come no where near close to fitting between the s13 frame rails i figured it was worth a go.
Low and behold it fits perfectly with about 1/2" clearance to the tc rod bracket...pic is bad but you get the idea.
have to swap over the vh mount bracket as well as the ps feed from the resivor.
I plan to cut up the pressure tube and weld on a -8 or so an fitting and having a short piece of line made up to link the ps pump to the rack while allowing for some flexibility in the system.
definately needs a shorter belt due to the smaller pulley but all in all should work out fine.
thats it for now kids, i'll have pics of the drivers header (the start) tommorow.
Post Title:
Posted by: Coolwhip at 6:46 PM 8/31/2008
Manifolds look good man, how much time was put into that one?
Post Title: Re: (Carl H)
Posted by: l0nestar at 7:26 PM 8/31/2008
I don't care what any of these other haters have to say, good yob!
Did you get another burn from the welding? Looks good!
Post Title:
Posted by: Neejay at 9:45 PM 8/31/2008
That header looks absolutely great.
Post Title: Re: (Neejay)
Posted by: gs14racer at 11:35 PM 8/31/2008
drivers and passenger from the back of the head forward:
same shot but again from the front:
headers upside down so you can see pipe routing:
and again from the front:
I will install o2 bungs in the 'y' pipe right after each collector they should be far enough apart to give decent readings from each bank while avoiding as much turbulance as possible.
I also forgot to install the egr tube pickup so that will have to be done as well...the list is never ending but atleast the end is in sight.
hopefuly an update in a week or so.
Post Title:
Posted by: Mettler at 6:10 PM 9/1/2008
I was not all that happy with the exhaust note on mine however, and have gone on to build a new set with even length runners. I recommend using a crossover pipe somewhere in your exhaust system, should hopefully improve the sound.
Post Title:
Posted by: Neejay at 6:17 PM 9/1/2008
one major thing i did was to refit the q45 pump to the block with the maxima pulley on the pump, this is not a direct bolt in affair as the shank on the q45 pump is slightly larger than that of the maxima's so the maxima pulley would not go home on the q45 pump.
grinding bit and a little bit of time i was able to enlarge the hole enough so that it slid over the shaft properly and sat home.
here is a quick pick of the q45 pump fully bolted to its mount:
since we're on the topic of power steering parts i also fabbed up a line using xrp fittings and hose available from a local speed shop...however any good hydraulic shop should have comprable fittings and hose.
I used the q45 pump outlet to allow for some play when positioning the hose as the maxima outlet ran right into the oil filter assembly after the hose was on.
hose consists of an m16x1.5 to -6 adaptor (thanks to djbutton), a bump tube m14x1.5 to -6 adaptor, a 90* -6 fitting, and straight -6 fitting.
sorry for the poor shots but it was terribly hard to get clear shots.
hose was routed between the engine mount plates and the block and wraps around near where the lhs lca bolts to the xmember.
pump outlet:
rack inlet:
ps belt had to be improvised as there was no belt available that would just 'bolt on'...belt is a 5pk1235 that was cut down one rib to fit the 4 groove setup...however it was very hard to get on so i'd sudgest finding a 5pk1245 if possible.
Cooling system was also addressed, radiator is a r32 skyline radiator off ebay (140$ shipped!) and a spal high performance 16" fan that pulls 2300cfm, once rigged up to my electromechanical control it will switch on automatically to regulate coolant temps.
all emissions are being retained on this swap except for cats as they are terribly expensive and did not come with my engine; so this means that egr had to be modified to work.
I ended up using the stock egr tube and welding a bit of straight on to it and then rotating the header fitting some...only is fed from one cylinder but it should work decently.
The headers have been painted as well as installed for good, however i took a few shots of the headers installed to give an idea of clearance.
steering rack does not bind on the header at all.
passenger side:
drivers near the oil filter housing:
drivers near the brake booster, note that the steering shaft DOES NOT touch:
back shot of the block, you can make out the egr tube near the steering shaft.
when fabbing the headers i made the mistake of building them independently without having the passenger bolted to the car...since the heads are slightly offset i tried to correct for this but over estimated resulting in the drivers sitting a bit higher than the passenger and the passenger being a hair bit longer.
name of the game i suppose but it will be fine when the y-pipe is made.
brakes have been fully reinstalled...booster and master placement will make changing plugs quite interesting but it clears without any modifications to the firewall, this is a bolt on nissan booster out of a VERY old sentra.
brakes feel good using the smaller booster but i suspect that there is some air in my rear lines giving the pedal a slightly spongy feel.
some hoses for the booster vac feed as well as routing of the accelerator cables:
quick shot of the air tube, need to find a maf adaptor of some flavor or i may just cut the tabs off and bolt a filter directly onto the maf body...not sure yet.
overall engine bay shot, fusebox and fan wiring are incomplete as i havent decided yet if i want to bolt the fusebox back in its stock location or to move it to where the battery was.
next time i go home i should have it finished and driveable...the quick turn up the street doesnt count much.
Post Title:
Posted by: Neejay at 10:38 PM 9/15/2008
Couple comments:
Do you have any concerns with overdriving the PS pump as much as you are with a smaller pulley?
With the brake booster, if there are any issues you might want to consider an S14 auto booster, mine fits with no issues.
Post Title:
Posted by: Bronze MFP at 7:53 AM 9/16/2008
here is the finished product:
a shot down the vband flange, unfortunately there was no way to expand the piping to reach the full id of the flange, so this will most likely cause some turbulance but i cant imagine enough to make a noticable difference in hp output.
the whole header back exhaust, i had to cut the mounting points off of the exhaust and reweld them for it to fit properly...had poor fitment when i started.
undercar shot of the exhaust, sorry for the poor lighting but was hard to take a picture at the time.
quick shot of what it looks like from the cockpit, fuel pressure gauge is there to diagnose the hesitation issues i was having:
instumentation, stock cluster works perfectly without fail, hud unit its self has failed but the digi speedo works correctly; tachometer has been recalibrated and i offer this service along side my wiring services.
sideprofile:
tail shot:
here are a few shots of the 95% complete engine bay, a few things to clean up here and there but very close to being complete.
need to wire wheel the rust off of the battery tray area and seal to prevent more rust as well as clean up the power supply wire.
dont mind the mountain dew bottle, have to source out a new catch tank as the one on the car is beyond dead (suprise suprise).
have to source out a new fuel pump, mount the battery properly, and modify the hood and she'll be on the streets!
Post Title:
Posted by: Coolwhip at 9:08 AM 10/13/2008
Yummy!| Quote, originally posted by LEMHEAD16 » |
| Do you have a wiring diagram you would like to post up? |
this effectively killed the fuel pump so the only option was a new pump...150$ later i have a new pump in tank and it drives flawlessly.
started on the hood so i wouldnt attract too much attention from local law enforcement.
have a bit more to do and need to cut and reweld as it is uneven in places but it does the trick for now.
an overall shot with a shot of her new shoes, r32 gtr wheels woo!:
tail shot, exhaust needs to be realigned tho.
a few engine bay shots, also note the work in progress with stuff here and there...have to cut a hole in the fender well for the cold air extention for the intake.
more to come, videos perhaps this weekend!
Post Title: Re: (Carl H)
Posted by: Coolwhip at 7:15 PM 11/4/2008
another clean looking swap in the bag carl, nice job man
Post Title:
Posted by: Neejay at 8:30 PM 11/4/2008
How long before a vid?!?
Post Title: Re: (Neejay)
Posted by: Yellow4g63 at 10:27 PM 11/4/2008
| Quote, originally posted by Carl H » |
first section of the bellhousing, most important as it will locate the trans for the rest of the mouting... trans bolted on awaiting second section, alignment is still good. second section and modified bellhousing, notice large gaps from differences in bellhousing diamaters. quick shot of the ringgear and one spot on the trans that needs more grinding for good clearance. second section welded along with first section: trans bolted to engine, she's quite snug and fits well... |
if your could do this but for a vq35de engine i would 
you! it would make my life soo much easier
Post Title:
Posted by: Carl H at 9:18 AM 11/5/2008
neejay - soon enough man...have to get her legal now to drive on the road.
yellow4g63 - that was the plan but the local yard is lacking q's currently.
Post Title: Re: (Carl H)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 11:13 AM 11/5/2008
| Quote, originally posted by Carl H » |
| irax - do what? hybrid bellhousing? a z33 trans bolts right on... |
| Quote, originally posted by Mettler » |
| Negative, that was discussed some time ago and it was established that the bellhousing pattern was much different. If that was the case, we'd have at least one documented example of someone having bolted a Z33 trans on to a VH by now. |
front view of the modified plate and maf:
decided due to the size of the filtercharger that it would be best to go ahead and put the maf in the fenderwell for not only space but also to insulate it from engine bay heat, the pipework is 3.5" mandrel bent.
quick shot of the maf/filter/extention pipe:
splash guard has been refitted to keep water from well splashing onto the filter and causing operational issues like hydrolocking.
also was able to start on the cowl hood sides and back, havent decided on how i want to seal off the sides/back to keep them watertight.
using some nice 16ga sheet steel a friend gave to me i started tracing out the needed patterns for the sides and cut them out...here only the passenger is cut.
and the cut passenger side test fitted...needs more triming but that is stuff to be done under the hood.
depending on how motivated i am tommorow i might pull the transmission and inspect the damage...i have a new complete clutch kit here if i have to replace the clutch but i hope it wont come down to that.
worst case scenario the trans assploded, best case its just a faulty throwout bearing...we'll see.
Post Title:
Posted by: l0nestar at 7:03 PM 11/27/2008
Hope that speedo converter works out for ya too!
Post Title:
Posted by: Coolwhip at 9:41 PM 11/27/2008
clutch disc was damaged and the spring had wedged its self between the pp and the disc causing it to not disengage.
transmission is still in one piece and does not appear to be damaged nor do i see any cracks in the welds.
here is another shot of the disc up close:
and one of the pressure plate:
i speculate that the disc was hitting the pressure plate on the large 'rivets' that can be seen under the diaphram, not sure why and if this was a defect of just poor design.
I think i may just order a standard organic full face disc from the parts store as they're cheap and readily available...pp does not appear to be damaged and with a light scuffing and cleaning of the mating surfaces should be fine.
keep an eye out, hopefuly an update this week.
Post Title: Re: (Carl H)
Posted by: SuperHatch at 3:20 AM 12/16/2008
| Quote, originally posted by Neejay » |
| Good job man. I really want some R32 wheels. |
Not to jack the thread, but I have a set for sale. They're not GTR, though - they're GTS. Email me.
Post Title:
Posted by: Coolwhip at 12:01 PM 1/2/2009
finally got some decent suspension on the car and it rides on the tokico lowering kit and blues...handles nicely and rides loads better:
also managed to get a baseline dyno of the car...before the dyno the car developed a missfire which would come and go.
end of the dyno session it was missing badly and sounded like it was running on 6 of the 8 cylinders.
problem comes and goes so i suspect either a tank of bad gas or injectors starting to fail; either way i have 8 good condition sr injectors to go in as well as the deatchwerks adaptor kit.
heres a quick scan of the dyno, but my floofy cat got in the way.
hoping to pull the plenum next time im home and r&r the injectors...stay tuned.
Post Title: Re: (Carl H)
Posted by: EMK at 9:27 AM 1/28/2009
What type of issues were there in the first place? What did you do to fix them?
Post Title:
Posted by: l0nestar at 5:42 PM 1/28/2009
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3tN8Tu8e0s
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mrA7mbtWF54
Post Title: Re: (Carl H)
Posted by: EMK at 6:56 AM 2/16/2009
B
Post Title:
Posted by: Aripug at 2:58 PM 3/13/2009
I'm writing from Italy!
I've just read all the page of this post....
this is really a great project!!!!!
You're great mans!!!!!
Ciao from Italy
Arian 
Post Title: Re: (Carl H)
Posted by: EMK at 7:56 AM 4/29/2009
how long did it take to fab the headers? would you do it again?
Post Title:
Posted by: Carl H at 7:15 PM 4/29/2009
car looks amazing....i knew its a big project but damn...
and the PS system...stock q45 with maxima pulley?
which radiator hoses did you use?
Post Title: Re: (YellowKoolAid)
Posted by: newbissan-tech at 10:23 PM 7/11/2009
Post Title: Re: (LEMHEAD16)
Posted by: newbissan-tech at 5:21 PM 7/13/2009
yellowkoolaid - they're unequal length headers made out of mild steel, first headers I had ever made so they kind of suck.
cost was approx 300$ in raw materials for headers alone but the real kicker here was the time involved, approx 10hrs in construction as i had no idea what i was doing at first.
you're spot on with the ps pump being the q and the pulley being a maxima, if i did it again it would be all maxima stuff with a nut welded onto the pump so it could be bolted down to the q bracketry.
radiator hoses are a concoction of upper and lower ka hoses for the most part...i think.
lemhead16 - its close to being complete, if you sitll have my email addy then drop me a line, i think within a week or so I should be ready to ship.
newbissan-tech - I got ya covered man
t45 - no its actually a k&n filtercharger kit for a sohc ka that my friend was able to chuck on a lathe and open the inlet some...we then drilled and tapped new holes for the q maf and its been working great since.
Post Title:
Posted by: T45 at 7:05 AM 7/15/2009
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