^ This is the car I started with. I purchased it in March of 2005.

The original plan for the car was to do the incredibly popular SR swap. I ordered a front clip from a business after talking with them a lot and they gained my trust. It was roughly $2500 out of my pocket. Unfortunately the businesses supplier flaked and didn’t ship the clips. I have received all but about $570 back from this business. It took nearly a year though. This basically destroyed my plans for the summer and I was stuck. Instead of selling it I kept it and looked at other options.

I was in a junk yard one day and happened to see an infiniti j30 which has the vg30 engine in it. I was going to do this swap but then wondered what engine was in the q45. I found out it was a 4.5 liter quad cam v8 called the vh45de. And basically found all my information about the swap here on nico.

^ So I ran across this 1990 q45 with 256xxx miles on it for 900 bucks. Picked it up for 800.
These engines are way overbuilt and known to last extremely long. The only thing that needed to be replaced on these early models were the timing chain guides because they were plastic and broke from becoming brittle. Unfortunately this engine did not have the guides replaced and it broke and became lodged in the oil pickup tube. The heads looked burnt and I became pissed. But my neighbor offered to take them to his work and clean em up but i would need to replace the valve seals and started looking at other options.

^ I stripped this thing of ALL of its wiring and anything I thought I might need. Then had someone come literally drag it up onto a flatbed and haul it away, which was really cool to see. (I kept the wheels so that’s why it they dragged it up)

^ Here is the engine out of the car.

Anyways my friend happened to find another q45 in a junk yard that only had 150xxx miles on it while looking for other parts. I checked it out and they said they would sell me the block, heads, intake mani… everything short of the alternator and a/c compressor for 150 bucks! I didn’t have to think twice about this because that was way less what it would cost me to rebuild the other engine. Plus now I had extra parts!

Now everything you see past this point has taken place just this past summer. Progress explosion!

^ Here’s the new engine I bought after I stripped it of everything but the heads.

^ New engine on the left, Old on the right.

^ Here on the top is a valve cover and upper timing chain cover from the bad engine. On the bottom is a upper timing chain cover from the good engine. Notice the difference?...

^ New engine’s valve cover. CLEAN…

^ This made my day when I pulled the upper chain guide cover and found that the guides had been replaced. See the metal backing? That’s good! (saves me about 370 bucks!) Also look at the front of the head! Its CLEAN! Very clean!

^ I was basically the happiest person on earth when I pulled the valve cover off on one of the heads. If a head looks this clean after 150xxx miles you know the previous owners did oil changes religiously, it also had a mobil oil filter which gave me an idea it was in good condition… and I thank them for that. Whoever that is…

^ Here is the tranny I am using for this swap. It is a n/a z32 manual transmission I drove down to Iowa to get it from a junk yard. (about $300)

^ Here is the custom adapter plate I ordered about a year and a half ago. Maybe longer. It was a group buy I happened to come across when I was researching the swap. Only 5 were made and it was made in the UK. ($750) The reason for this is that no manual transmission bolts up to this engine.

^ So here is the first time the engine was test fitted into the chassis.

^ Here are the engine and tranny mounts I made out of quarter inch steel. My friends dad welded them up for free. For the tranny mount I used the stock ka auto tranny and welded two 1/4” pieces of steel because it sat back a little bit. Some people actually cut the mount and re-welded it. Which I found un-necessary. The stock z32 rubber mount was used for the tranny bushing/mount/whatever you want to call it. And hockey pucks are used for the engine bushing/insulating/whatever you want to call it.

^ A close up of the tranny mount. I basically used that center hole as the new rear bolt holes on each side. And then drilled a new hole for the front.

^ Good engine with the re-surfaced stock n/a z32 flywheel.

^ Picture of the flywheel with aluminum spacer.

^ Adapter plate and RPS stage 2 clutch (6-puck disc).

^ Me fabricating the headers out of mandrel bent tubing. (Thanks to friends for letting me borrow the welder and helping me fabricate these) These weren’t finished in time so that’s why it had to go to storage again. I purchased all of my tubing through “Headers by ED” he also helped me figure out the correct size tubing for the exhaust system.

^ My buddy Brandon helping me fabricate the exhaust. Thanks man!

^ I cut the flange off of the stock vh45 headers and am now using them to make custom headers. These will be pounded round, welded and ground down to fit correctly.

^ Had to bend the ends of the tubing to fit into the flanges. A ball-peen hammer and an anvil type vise thing was my friend during this stage. Also an angle grinder…

^ Picture of the transmission bolted to engine with adapter plate and passenger side exhaust.

^ On the bottom of the engine there are two black braces for the bottom of the tranny. At first I wasn’t going to use them because I didn’t think it would allow for clearance over the steering rack. But it clears.

^ Picture of drivers side header.

^ Test fitting the drivers side header… Its extremely close to the steering column. It’s touching right now but that will be fixed. And lots of heat wrap will be used to keep the heat down.

^ Picture of engine in car!

^ Another picture of engine in car with the car actually on the ground. Notice how it doesn’t sit incredibly low in the front with the stock suspension.

^ Passenger side mount in car. Notice how close the exhaust ports are to the frame rails.

^ Clearance of oil filter. I thought I was going to have to do a remote mounted filter but I don’t think it will be necessary.

^ Another picture of oil filter clearance.

^ Here is a picture of the distance between the brake booster and the drivers side valve cover. This was after we re-drilled holes and moved it up and to the right. This is also a brake booster from a Nissan Sentra, s it is much smaller than my stock s13 auto booster. I have q45 brakes to make up for the loss in braking power.
I’m not too concerned about how close it is because the engine is mounted pretty solid in there.

^ Distance between firewall and back of engine… Don’t think I will have heat.

^ Picture of shifter position. It’s almost perfect, sits a little to the left. There was a rod originally on it that I cut off and just re-welded the bracket from the other end. You can see the welds where I did this.

^ My hood won’t close anymore.
And those wires’ hanging over is the custom harness I made. It’s there just for testing. Making sure it works and all. I got as far as cranking it over. I didn’t have fuel hooked up so it never fired. And the exhaust never got completed, I ran out of time.

^ Picture right before we towed it to storage just this past summer. Its sooo close!
And that’s my dad helping me hook it up to the trailer. Many thanks to him for letting me use the garage all these summers and bearing with the project.

^Just an overhead image of it before it goes to storage.

One main frustration of this project was figuring out the correct wiring. I think I had to wire up a total of 10 wires. All necessities.

I still have to have a custom driveshaft made. I called around and can get a basic 1 piece steel drive shaft made for under 100 bucks.

And I also still have to run the clutch lines and make a custom bracket for an alternator.
Will be using a 240sx alternator because of fitment issues, would have to notch the frame otherwise. Another person used it with this engine and works fine.

If you have questions please feel free to ask. This is an enormous project and I’m sure I haven’t covered everything in this single post.

I also have MANY more pictures I could post up if someone wants a different angle.

Thanks for looking!

- Chase Gardner

Modified by CrazyTrance at 12:53 AM 10/23/2008

Modified by CrazyTrance at 12:03 AM 1/30/2009

Modified by CrazyTrance at 12:07 AM 1/30/2009



Post Title:
Posted by: Mettler at 3:20 PM 10/22/2007

Is the transmission installed when you put it in storage?



Post Title: Re: (tmorgan4)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 6:17 PM 10/22/2007

Nice project, engine you put in looks really clean and shouldnt need anything but fresh guides to give you a lot of life even under abuse.



Post Title: Re: (elwesso)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 9:32 PM 10/22/2007

Your mounts look just like mine do hockey pucks FTW!!1 lol



Post Title: Re: (gs14racer)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 11:39 PM 10/22/2007

I know, i based them off your design. Thanks! question though. Does it shake the car much with the mounts being so solid? I would assume so. It doesn't matter to me. Just wondering



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: gs14racer at 5:23 AM 10/23/2007

nice work. nice phot and write up also.

hope this will give more information to others considering this unique, potent, swap.

good luck.

Regards
derrick



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: DeXteR at 6:15 AM 10/23/2007

i'd be interested in seeing whatever pictures you have.

i hope you don't mind, but i'm going to "right click" and "save picture as..." a lot on this thread. you're a year or two ahead of me. reading the beginning of this thread was funny because i'm thinking the exact same thing.

hmmm... j30 has a vg30... what's in a q45? 4.5L V8?!!! i must have a vh45de... i must acquire z32 tt tranny... i need to buy a q45...

i look forward to seeing next summer's progress.




Post Title: Re: (DeXteR)
Posted by: elwesso at 8:50 AM 10/23/2007

That thing in the center of the engine bay really makes the rest of the car look like a POS!!!!

I really like seeing that stock airbox in there... SOOO much better than a cone filer!

How do you anticipate the header fabrication as far as difficulty?



Post Title: Re: (elwesso)
Posted by: Jeff Taylor at 9:33 AM 10/23/2007

Awesome. Thats good news to me.

Quote, originally posted by doctorchee »

Hi nice work. nice phot and write up also. hope this will give more information to others considering this unique, potent, swap. good luck. Regards derrick

Thank you derrick, it took a while to make but i'm glad i did.

I hope others consider this swap too. Like you said, maybe this will help other peoples swap also.

Quote, originally posted by DeXteR »

i want to buy you a beer. i'd be interested in seeing whatever pictures you have. i hope you don't mind, but i'm going to "right click" and "save picture as..." a lot on this thread. you're a year or two ahead of me. reading the beginning of this thread was funny because i'm thinking the exact same thing. hmmm... j30 has a vg30... what's in a q45? 4.5L V8?!!! i must have a vh45de... i must acquire z32 tt tranny... i need to buy a q45... i look forward to seeing next summer's progress.

No it's cool man, save all you want. Just as long as you don't try to like re-distribute them or something wierd. But yeah its cool.

Oh i didn't use a tt transmission. I used the n/a transmission. Shorter gear ratios and WAY cheaper.
Edit: I'm dumb, internals are the same.

Next summer should be a blast i hope!

Quote, originally posted by elwesso »

that shot of the head looks amazing, really REALLY clean... I have to say though (im awaiting the hate!)... That thing in the center of the engine bay really makes the rest of the car look like a POS!!!! I really like seeing that stock airbox in there... SOOO much better than a cone filer! How do you anticipate the header fabrication as far as difficulty?

Yeah, the head is so clean i thought i was hallucinating at first haha.

But yeah, the rest of the car is kinda rough. It's ok though. She will get cleaned up.

Yeah, i think i might keep the stock airbox. it fits perfectly in there. I'm not 100% sure yet though.

The header fabrication is extremely tedious. At first i wasn't going to make an equal length header because i was going to just try to get it running. But since i ran out of time. I'm going to re-do the headers and make them equal length. Since i will have a whole summer to do so. This will be much harder. But it can be done. Plus it will flow alot better. People forget how much non-equal length can effect the engines performance. But when i was making them it was actually a really fun process making the headers. I don't know why but it is haha. Especially when working with a friend. But it is not something an impatient person should tackle. It can get overwhelming at times.

Quote, originally posted by Jeff Taylor »

Looks great man.... I'd like to see how well it runs with those nice looking headers.

Thanks! Me too!

Modified by CrazyTrance at 11:04 AM 10/23/2007

Modified by CrazyTrance at 11:06 AM 10/23/2007

Modified by CrazyTrance at 12:10 AM 1/30/2009



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: DeXteR at 11:37 AM 10/23/2007

oh, no. these would be going right into my private folder for "s13 inspiration" that i don't share on the internet. i'll share a link to this thread before i share the pictures.

thanks.

Quote, originally posted by CrazyTrance »

Oh i didn't use a tt transmission. I used the n/a transmission. Shorter gear ratios and WAY cheaper.

yeah, i caught that. i have my reasons for wanting the tt tranny.

best of luck to you, and keep us updated.



Post Title: Re: (DeXteR)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 12:59 PM 10/23/2007

Nice, many other people have turbo'd these engines. 600hp easy.
good luck to you too and you're swap!



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: Mettler at 1:35 PM 10/23/2007

Individual runner length simply determines where scavenging effect occurs in the rev range... having different length runners simply shifts this area of effect slightly up or down the rev range. You need something like a whole 12" difference in runner length to cause a mere 1000rpm shift in scavenging effect for that cylinder, so really the effect is nowhere near as dramatic as you may imagine.

Having said that however, my first set of headers did not have equal length runners, and while the engine performed awesomely... I was not entirely happy with the sound. I too am going to be fabricating a new set of headers with equal length runners... just finishing the remounting of my engine and then I'll be getting to work with the headers in my new workshop.

I can link you to a David Vizard exhaust article if it interests you, it taught me heaps about exhaust configuration.



Post Title: Re: (Mettler)
Posted by: gs14racer at 4:17 PM 10/23/2007

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f55mn5OA34U



Post Title:
Posted by: Rex at 4:34 PM 10/23/2007

I'm very excited to see this. I can't believe you kept this to yourself for this long.



Post Title: Re: (gs14racer)
Posted by: Mettler at 5:50 PM 10/23/2007

You are correct. It does effect more than anything the sound of the engine. I know it does not effect the performance aspect nearly as much.
I just meant that people sometimes forget that it does make a difference whether it's equal length or not.

The guy i bought all of my mandrel bent tubing from has been in the header business for over 40 years. He's the one that advised me with the tubing sizes for the headers and the rest of the exhaust. He also educated me on equal length headers and why it is important. Plus a whole bunch of papers with information on building your own header. So i am aware of the scavenging effects that are caused and how to pinch and weld the tubing together at the end for the collector. What maximizes flow and what not.

But i do appreciate that info you shared and would love to see what other people have to say about headers. If you could link me to that article i would appreciate that.

Quote, originally posted by gs14racer »

this is what equal length sounds like, not that I know what non equal length sounds like. I just wanted to wh*re out my car some more http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f55mn5OA34U

I have seen this. It sounds awesome! Just love it.

Quote, originally posted by Rex »

Beautiful. I'm very excited to see this. I can't believe you kept this to yourself for this long.

It was hard to keep it a secret!

Thanks all,
Chase Gardner



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: tmorgan4 at 10:28 AM 10/24/2007

If you have any way to post up this info I think it would be a good read.



Post Title:
Posted by: riu at 6:54 PM 10/24/2007

the difference in the actual transmission itself is the edge of the bellhousing has a different lip where on the TT the Starter sits several millimeters further than where it sits on the NA, this allows for a larger flywheel to bolt up to the TT transmission, but its marginal. I highly doubt you will have issues with the NA transmission, just make sure you use the right flywheel and the spacer neccessary for the Dixon Adaptor plate



Post Title: Re: (riu)
Posted by: gs14racer at 7:08 PM 10/24/2007

I really recommend you use merge collectors, they are expensive but they will get you a couple hp in the mid range and up too.

I got mine from this site for 400.00

http://performanceweldingheaders.com/compmerg.htm

Post Title: Re: (riu)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 7:08 PM 10/24/2007

Edit: wait... it just clicked... durrr i was thinking of the differential's final drive, just like you said. Wow i feel dumb. Oh well, **** happens

Right, I am using the n/a flywheel so it works fine. I've cranked it over and it seems to turn over ok. So we will see..

Thanks for the heads up though.



Post Title: Re: (gs14racer)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 7:16 PM 10/24/2007

Thanks for the info but i've already purchased my collectors... The guy i bought them from taught me how to pinch the four tube ends together before they go into the collector so it acts exactly like that.



Post Title:
Posted by: Mettler at 8:21 PM 10/24/2007

Post Title: Re: (Mettler)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 8:25 PM 10/24/2007

Ok, so the project is back in action everyone. I've made a little bit of progress so far. But it's slow going. Hopefully things will start to move along pretty soon.

Anyways, i just completed fabricating the alternator mount. I'm using a 240sx alternator as the q45 one is way too big to fit in the bay. I would have to notch the frame rail. The water pump and alternator will be run on one belt and the a/c tensioner will be flipped upside down to tension it. I'll show a pic of that later if i remember. Yeah i know, the welds are sloppy, they are just tac welds i did with my friends little 90 until i can go to my girlfriends house where they have a full size welder and finish them up.

Here's as far as i got last year on making the headers. I realize they are NOT equal length. I plan to re-do them eventually when i have more time. As of right now i'm just planning to get the car running.

Here is a picture of the passenger side header just sitting on the head.

And here's what i've got to work with. The mock-up engine is in the car without the tranny so it will be easier to finish making the exhaust. The tranny is huge..

Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 4:22 AM 8/8/2008

We had to redo the whole thing because the one i made last year was too close to the steering column. The new header clears it with much more room. Here are some of the pictures.

Checking for clearance around the steering column.

Another angle.

Checking that the runners clear the firewall and frame rail.

Another angle. Clears the firewall, frame, and column!

The header was on the engine outside the car for most of the fab work. After we made sure it would clear everything, we just hugged each runner to the other runners and made sure we could get the collector on.

The fourth runner will be made later this weekend hopefully. Then finish the collector on the passenger side and the headers are done. Then it's smooth sailing on the rest of the exhaust work.

Modified by CrazyTrance at 10:21 AM 4/21/2009



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 4:23 AM 8/8/2008

The shifter is finally figured out. Ended up cutting open the shifter hole and welding in a piece of steel, then welding the old 300zx shifter mounting to the bar. She is all lined up perfectly now. Can hit 1st through reverse smoothly now.

I also ran the clutch line today and bled it. The 6-puck RPS clutch feels NICE and is aching to be broken in.

Also had to re-drill a new hole in the brake pedal to accommodate for the relocation of the brake booster. So i did that and hooked that up. Now i can stop.

The headers are actually semi-complete now. All of the runners come together. Just need to take em apart and hand em over to my buddy to get welded up. Then it's collector and finish the rest of the exhaust time.

This is the muffler i think i'm going to get. It's a Dynomax Ultra-Flo X Muffler...

Let me know what you guys think.

Post Title: Re: My rediculous project... (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 4:24 AM 8/8/2008

Yay, i can rock jegs stickers now...

Post Title: Re: My rediculous project... (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 4:25 AM 8/8/2008

I've finished making the shifter mounting whatever you wanna call it.

Practically finished the headers.

I have a driveshaft currently in the works and should be done in a week or so.

And just got back some bling from the powder coater.

Here is me testing the drivers side deader after painstakingly working the tubing to meet together so i could magically fit a collector on the end. Hooray

Here i am making sure the header will clear the steering column.. i had to re-do this side becaus my first attempt wasn't good enough. YES i have to take the steering column out every time i need to pull the engine. and i need to pull the engine every time i need to take the headers off.. Yay for one-off custom ****.

Here is the end of a header just before i put the collectors on. I had to pinch the tubes together all in the middle so there would be as little turbulence as possible. then you weld a + across each seam and a half an inch or so up each side. so when you put the collector on it seals off from the atmosphere. twas fun

YAY!! this is a sweet picture. making sure the collectors didn't point up into the floor pan. This was a guestimate kind of cuz i still didn't have the mounts back from the powder coater... :/ so i just had the engine floating. but i think it'll be alright. i've looked at the engine enough times in the car to make a good guess.

Passenger side header all finished up minus the O2 sensor bung being put in place and finishing up the welding.

Delicious..

Money shotss

I'll post pictures of them on the engine later when i have a chance to put them on.


Modified by CrazyTrance at 10:18 AM 4/21/2009



Post Title: Re: My rediculous project... (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 4:26 AM 8/8/2008

Got back from PROVE FORCE (the clutch/u-joint place i'm going through) It's located in brooklyn park. They have sourced a yoke for me and have also found the rear flange that mates up to the differential. I HIGHLY recommend this place you guys. I've been working with Bernie. Call and ask for him. The guy is the shiz, super helpful

I Blue labeled these parts (2nd day) so they should get here on friday. He will call me to pick them up. I'll come pick them up. measure the length i need. Call him back and my driveshaft should be done on friday. Thats assuming everything goes as smoothly as possible and i can wake up for his phone call. (i work 3rd shift boys..)

I'm so ready to drive this thing you have no idea. 4 year projects FTMFW



Post Title: Re: My rediculous project... (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 4:26 AM 8/8/2008

This is an HDR image. because the lighting was just kinda crappy when i did it.. so this is the best i could do for now. Will get better pics when its actually in the car. i'm sure thats all any of you care about anyways, whether or not it actually runs haha

Post Title: Re: My rediculous project... (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 4:27 AM 8/8/2008

QUick pic of the headers. I dont have a pic of the headers in wrap right now.. took this before the wrap went on. will put one up if i get around to taking one..

But anyways. The Driveshaft is going to be completed TOMORROW!! So i basically will have EVERYTHING i need to get this car on the road this weekend! Bought some premium gas to throw in the gas tank so i can try firing it up this weekend!!! HAHAH yeah boyy!

I'm stoked. Are YOU?



Post Title: Re: My rediculous project... (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 4:27 AM 8/8/2008

I got the driveshaft back from the shop today (well yesterday).

TADAAA!!

The car is basically completely put back together, engine is in with headers on. We tried starting it last night but no such luck. It was making a clunking noise from the front of the engine when turning it over but a guy on nico said he had that same noise and it was just extra slack in the timing chain and went away once started. We also didn't have enough power, it was turning over really slow.. So i'm getting a new battery tomorrow thats big.

I think i've still got some quirks to solve in my wiring. Dont think the fuel pump is priming so i've gotta solve that issue out, and i'm not sure i've wired in the ignitors correctly either...



Post Title: Re: My rediculous project... (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 4:28 AM 8/8/2008

Yes, everything is hooked up like it should be. But i am missing one important thing. The ignition coil RELAY.

Why? Think of your fuel pump. When you turn the key to the on position it sends a signal to a relay, which in turn sends a signal to your fuel pump control unit which finally tells the fuel pump what the **** is up.

So in this case, the power transistor doesn't know what to do because i have NO ignition coil relay telling the ecu that yes, ok i have the key turned on. So it doesn't send a signal to the power transistor which in turn doesn't send a signal to the coil packs to turn the **** on so i can roast the **** outta my tires.. So no signal, no gravy.

THAT is what i think is wrong and why i have no spark. I'm not 100% sure yet, but i'm pretty sure this is what the problem is. I'll let you guys know for sure tomorrow. Or if i'm still stuck in a ditch, moving nowhere fast.

So let me know what you guys think! Think i'm right?? Or am i just making **** up. Post!

ANyways, here is the diagram for the ingition signal system and why i think what i think is right, or should be right.

P.S. no i didn't write on the actual book damnit. i have a tablet pc. used an editing program to write it with a paintbrush. so back off

Post Title: Re: My rediculous project... (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 4:29 AM 8/8/2008

While we were trying to start the car again with starter fluid, it backfired through the intake and lit my friends arm on fire, holy crap. hmmm..



Post Title: Re: My rediculous project... (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 4:32 AM 8/8/2008

BWASAHHAHAHAHHA. ****ing parkinglots here i com!!

Thanks for ALL of your help you guys!

It's not quite it DRIVING condition yet. Still need to get the rest of the exhaust made. And it doesn't like to idle for some reason.

Also i think the tach signal is like times 2 cuz its an 8 cylinder. Anyone know how to fix that?

Omfg i'm so happy.

4 years man... good god finally my car can hit the pavement.

Enjoy.

P.S. that squeeling is just a pulley. think its cuz i have no coolant in the system.

BWAHAHA

Post Title: Re: My rediculous project... (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 4:32 AM 8/8/2008

suspension is sloppy haha. i dont even have a stock rear sway bar cuz my endlinks are missing. need coilovers. anyone wanna sponsor me?? haha.

This thing is amazing. so much torque. I'm so excited guys.



Post Title: Re: My rediculous project... (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 4:33 AM 8/8/2008

Mostly exhaust stuff

Made an exhaust hanger for the muffler. The plate also doubles as my e-brake line holder thingy.

Dont nit pick about the welds. I'm welding quarter inch steel with a little miller 90. Its not a super structural piece so whatever..

Here it is mounted on the car

Another angle.

I like this one.

Almost there!!

YEAHH!!! GREAT SUCCESS!!

Wahoo! Now just gotta get the whole welded. It's just tacked.



Post Title:
Posted by: Carl H at 8:05 PM 8/8/2008

Thanks, its really a pretty simple routing, there arent many bends in the tubing which surprised me, made it a whole lot easier. and the clearance is decent also. Doesn't hang down too much.

Quote, originally posted by Bart »

Your welding looks great mate The look on your face when you started the motor up was great, hopefully i will experience the same thing in a few day when i start up my motor.

Thanks haha. It was awesome. The sound is amazing, you will have the same look. trust me.



Post Title:
Posted by: USsil80 at 6:44 PM 8/11/2008

Nice info on your build.



Post Title: Re: (craigztoyz)
Posted by: sr20deTsomeday118 at 12:22 AM 8/12/2008

I found two bad injectors. Number one and number two cylinders. I happened to have two brand new injectors from the other engine i got out of the q45 i bought. replaced them and decided to set the cas back to the center since that is where is is supposed to be.

This thing SCREAMS. Took it through this huge tunnel with a buddy of mine Holy **** balls you guys. This thing has its own sound. Nothing sounds like it.

It LOVES to be sideways. A flick of the throttle is all that is needed. TONS of torque. But holy **** is it hard to steer with no power steering. I need a remote mounted electric unit asap.. like one from the gen 2 mr2's.

Anyways. I'll video a highway run or a sound clip or something. It sounds WAY better than the first video i gave you guys. The exhaust does wonders.

I'm so god damn happy. Drove it 90 miles today and no overheating problems.




Post Title: Re: (USsil80)
Posted by: SuperHatch at 7:19 AM 8/15/2008

Everyone always asks this question, I'm assuming because they're worried about ground clearance.

The collectors WILL hang below the framerails no matter what. The framerails are not tall enough to hide the collector, even if it was touching the floorboard. There is simply no way to protect the primaries from ground impact using the framerails.

You either need shorty headers to get the collector tucked up higher, which BTW is nearly impossible on the drivers side, or just run a log manifold.

I am curious about Mazworx headers though, they were able to tuck their collectors up higher by placing them in the area under the slanted part of the firewall. They used extremely short collectors (shorter than I could find while making mine) and actually angles the collectors exit relative to the primaries. IF they don't hang below the framerails, that is most likely the only way to do it.

Post Title: Re: (sr20deTsomeday118)
Posted by: PresidentV8Fan at 11:04 AM 8/15/2008

Post Title: Re: My rediculous project... (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: titaniumbullet at 3:18 PM 8/21/2008

So yeah, my alternator went out on my way to school. So 300 miles from my destination i was running on battery alone.... Had to keep switching batteries between our van and my car to try and make it. Well one of the batteries took a crap on us so i had to leave it at some random restaurant haha. Bought a new battery the next day and barely made it to my house in rapid city. So i ordered a new alternator and it wont be here till wed..

****TY.



Post Title: Re: My rediculous project... (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: BMAR240SX at 10:34 AM 9/2/2008

Quote, originally posted by BMAR240SX »

One more video please

Lately i've been having some issues with it. It seems to be bogging and i'm sure this is timing related.

A couple things annoying me are that my speedo works very intermittently. I even swapped out the speedo for another one and it doesn't work. I think the signal from the z32 transmission is like a different voltage or something? I might have to get a custom spedometer or one from a 300zx... not sure, if anyone knows whats up let me know.

And i'm also trying to figure out how to get the tach to read correctly. I know you should be able to take it apart and add a resistor somewhere but i'm not sure where..

Other than that i'll try to work on getting a video up within the month. There is suppossed to be a little drift event going on out here in rapid city where i go to school towards the end of september so i'll probably get one up then.

One more thing. I need new tires



Post Title: Re: My rediculous project... (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: LEMHEAD16 at 10:18 PM 9/9/2008

???

There is no clearancing of the oil pan on an S-chassis car.



Post Title: Re: My rediculous project... (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: KrazyKyle at 7:45 AM 9/10/2008

i lost the sheet that had all of the wires i had to cross over. If i remember it was like 15 wires or so. Not exactly sure.



Post Title: Re: My rediculous project... (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: RowleyHKD87 at 7:06 AM 9/16/2008

Quote, originally posted by CrazyTrance »

Ok, so this thread is basically explaining what I have been working on during the past three summers. [edit]removed quoted post content because it was huge![/edit] - mod Thanks for looking! - Chase Gardner

Post Title:
Posted by: Mettler at 3:14 PM 9/29/2008

It was commonplace enough during burnout competitions at the nationals that the government has made it the law to require at least a 3mm steel transmission tunnel shield above the bellhousing area in all rotary cars.

Vids are available on youtube of a couple of oldschool RX7s blowing their flywheels and bonnet flying open... **** that's dangerous, imagine the red hot flywheel nailing a spectator!! Or worse, chopping off the driver's feet. Nasty! This is of course an extreme scenario, and what's more likely is the unbalanced load will simply reduce the life of your engine.

So yeah I am in full support of ensuring the flywheel and clutch setup is properly balanced with the engine's rotating assembly, and if a spacer must be used, that the appropriate length highest tensile bolts available are used to ensure maximum thread engagement!



Post Title: Re: (Mettler)
Posted by: gtrob at 4:22 PM 9/29/2008

I would still be very carefully with spacing the flywheel and cluth away from the back of the engine, even if it is balanced as you are putting huge stress on your engine. What do you do if you have a nut or a bolt that is tight and you cant get undone. you get a mechanical leverage on to what you are trying to undo. That is same as what is happening here. except the nut you are trying to undo has now turned into a rotating crank shaft.



Post Title: Re: (gtrob)
Posted by: White Comet at 11:36 AM 10/7/2008

Anyways. Here is a fairly large update.

Ok, so it’s been a while since I’ve updated this thing.

So what I’ve been up to?

Finally timed the car.
Replaced a bunch of hoses that were cracking and ****.
Replaced the clutch slave cylinder AGAIN as it was leaking from the piston (bought a while ago and it only lasted like a month..

vv Installed one of these so I can tell when to shift.

Bought a **** ton of tires and went to an event on stock blown suspension.. I sucked.

Small tight auto-x courses >> no powersteering.

Then I got some of these.

And borrowed some wheels from a buddy while his car is outta commission. And did some more…

Then we took some pictures!

And a video of the sound this thing makes.

My Noisy Car



Post Title: Re: My rediculous project... (gtrob)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 1:58 PM 10/22/2008

Hmmm. That is a good point. I see what you mean. I'm going to email the individual that designed the adaptor plate and ask him about this. Thanks for the concern.



Post Title: Re: My rediculous project... (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: White Comet at 8:34 PM 10/22/2008

i did some digging in to why my car runs like ***. And why #2 and #4 cylinder arent firing.

CHecked for spark. Got it. Electrocuted myself.

Put a screw driver on the injectors when it was running. I could hear both clicking, meaning they should be functioning correctly if they arent clogged. Dont think they are. Although #4 cylinder's injector ohmed out at like 25 ohms (should be between 10 and 14 ohms). Whatever.

So i pulled the plugs on #2 and 4; the tips are coated with oil. ONLY the tips are coated with oil, not the threads meaning the oil is coming from inside the chamber. I pulled the plug on #6 and that plug was bone dry. SO now i'm starting to panic because there is something obviously going on in 2 and 4 that arent in the rest..

So i'm going to compression test the damn thing and maybe leak down test it if i can get ahold of one. And i might be buying some new piston rings soon.. Or maybe just a new fuxing engine which i DONT have the money for right now. Unless someone magically has an extra long block with good compression lying around that they can sell to me for cheap.




Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: Unnatural1 at 7:45 PM 11/2/2008

Are you seeing any blue smoke coming from the tail pipe while running? I would recommend a leak down test. A leak down test will be a more accurate depiction of the health of each cylinder. Also, if you find a leak it will allow you to pin point the cause; such as piston rings, valves, etc....

I know this has got to be a bummer after all the work in getting this thing together and running.



Post Title: Re: (Unnatural1)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 8:30 PM 11/2/2008

Do you know of a way to check or do a test on those to see if thats the case without tearing the engine apart? I dont. And i cant really dig too deep as i'm not at my permanent home.



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: Unnatural1 at 6:45 PM 11/3/2008

Only problem is, valve seals won't cause a misfire (maybe if there was enough oil on start-up, but only for a brief moment). But, rings probably won't cause a misfire either. If piston rings are really badly worn or broken it's possible they could cause a misfire from compression loss or oil contamination.

One thing to try: Remove your radiator cap and make sure your radiator is full. Leave the cap off and start the engine and watch for coolant bubbling or erupting out of the radiator. If it does erupt out of the radiator, it is a sure sign of a blown head gasket (and you don't even need any tools! ).

If you already have a compression tester perform that test next. Things like bent rods, etc... will show up from a compression check. If everything tests good then move on to the leak down test. A leak down test will do a better job finding worn rings, burned or damaged valves, etc. and allow you to pin point the problem without disassembly.

At this point, you could have two different unrelated problems. Do some more testing before freaking out...and then freak out afterward!

~Brendan



Post Title: Re: (Unnatural1)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 1:30 PM 11/4/2008

Thanks for the detailed response!

Yeah i dont ever remember seeing blue smoke coming out of the exhaust.

I will do your radiator trick soon to see if anything comes up. Although i dont seem to be losing any antifreeze. The reservoir is still nice and full. Unless there is air in the radiator now. I just recently got a radiator flush also.

And i'm working on getting both a compression tester and leak down tester soon. Havent touched the car since friday night really



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: Unnatural1 at 7:17 PM 11/4/2008

How long has this been going on? There are lots of possibilities. If the rings are bad you would probably notice bluish smoke from the tail pipe, even once the engine was warmed up. Just verify the engine is mechanically sound first and THEN start worrying about everything else. Let us know when you get the results!

~Brendan

Modified by Unnatural1 at 7:30 PM 11/5/2008



Post Title: Re: (Unnatural1)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 9:04 AM 11/5/2008

I know smoke comes from my engine but thats because the service caps on the valve covers leak oil onto my headers.

It runs horrible!! I hate it



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: Unnatural1 at 12:17 PM 11/5/2008

Yeah my valve covers leaked pretty badly when I first bought my Q45. I replaced them when I pulled the plenum to replace 1/2 of my injectors. Keep us posted.



Post Title:
Posted by: Carl H at 1:29 PM 11/5/2008

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds...s.htm
I realize it's for a completely different engine altogether.... the procedure should apply for any engine though.

HEAD GASKET: The compression reading is low between two adjacent cylinders. the head gasket between the two cylinders may be blown. If there is the sign of white smoke coming from the exhaust while the engine is running may indicate water leaking into the cylinder.

It seems that one might be it. Because both #2 and #4 (which are right next to each other) seem to be missing. Like i said, unhooking the connector from the injectors or the coil on these two cylinders has no effect on the idle. A leak down test will either confirm or deny that assumption. I'm hoping thats what the problem is because i could probably do that in a weekend no problem.

Edit:

#8 from that link states:

"If a cylinder is unusually low, shoot about a tablespoon of clean engine oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and repeat the compression test. If the compression comes up after adding the oil, it appears that the cylinder's piston rings or bore are damaged or worn. If the pressure remains low, the valves may not be seating properly (a valve job is needed), or the head gasket may be blown near that cylinder. If compression in any two adjacent cylinders is low, and if the addition of oil does not help the compression, there is leakage past the head gasket. Oil and coolant water in the combustion chamber can result from this problem. There may be evidence of water droplets on the engine dipstick when a head gasket has blown."



Post Title:
Posted by: Carl H at 1:43 PM 11/5/2008

Correct, The hottest it's gotten i believe was like 205F or 210F. I try to keep it around 180F as thats just my guestimation on what normal opperating temp should be.



Post Title:
Posted by: Carl H at 2:16 PM 11/5/2008

A compression test may not tell you conclusively that you've got a ring problem. IMO a leak down test is your best bet for diagnosing worn rings.

You probably won't find a blown head gasket on these engines. I believe they use multi-layered shim gaskets. Those are not easy to blow out. But, a warped head will allow compression gases to escape. That first test I described above is an easy way to check for this kind of problem. BTW burning coolant shows up as white smoke.



Post Title: Re: (Unnatural1)
Posted by: BallzDeep1.9L at 11:49 PM 11/5/2008

Yesterday i got to borrow a compression tester..

Compression is supposed to be 185psi. 142psi minimum.

So i tested the two cylinders i thought were effed up. (#2 and #4)

#2 tested out at 183psi!

#4 tested out at 180psi!

I'm STOKED. During the #2 cylinder it started raining. SO i had to finish real quick and slap it all back together. But i'm psyched it's not anything serious on those cylinders. So i'm now suspecting injectors. Will hopefully get those done this weekend. BALLER

Was looking at getting some injectors from Deatschwerks. When i mentioned Deatschwerks on my local forum a bunch of people went crazy right away. Saying MANY people have had problems with them... like hydrolocked engines... among others. One guy with an RB25 had crappy problems with Deatschwerks injectors.

I've always heard good things from this forum about Deatschwerks, so what gives? How come many others have had messed up stuff? Anyone willing to defend em?



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: gs14racer at 5:20 PM 11/14/2008

Yes, that is awesome news for sure.

And thats exactly what i was thinking and the other guy that was skeptical agrees. It makes sense too since the person he was talking about had upgraded injectors from them. So i'll probably be buying their rebuilt injectors for $79 or whatever it is.

Also, we get a discount from them as NICO members right? I was reading in previous threads that it was a 10% discount. But when talking with someone on the AIM account they said the discount is free shipping. Which one is it? lol



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: SuperHatch at 5:38 PM 11/14/2008

You can also get reconditioned injectors from Z1 performance...

http://www.z1motorsports.com/p...b84bf

Just select the 90-94 TT injectors. They're only 40 bucks a pop as opposed to 79 from deaschworks. Unless of course you have a 94-96 VH45, then you're out of luck from them.



Post Title: Re: (SuperHatch)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 5:58 PM 11/14/2008

Are they as reputable? And are the quality of them as good as the rebuilt ones from Deatschwerks?
I've got the old style rail, 90-94. You have any experience with them?



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: Unnatural1 at 6:30 PM 11/14/2008

I've got 4 reconditioned DeatschWerks injectors running in my VH right now. I have not had a problem with them so far. They come with a 1 year warranty if I remember correctly. The Phase I injectors are $79.00 and the Phase II (mine!) injectors are about $63.00. I thought the 95-96 Z32 got the same "Phase II" injectors as my 94 Q45. Does Z1 offer those reconditioned too? Maybe I'm wrong on that one.

~Brendan



Post Title: Re: (Unnatural1)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 7:55 PM 11/14/2008

Definitely! Thanks man!

Sweet. I think they were just referring to the DeatschWerks injectors that they modify to increase flow rate that are not reliable.

Yeah, i think Z1 offers those injectors for your engine (95-96). And i think your right, they might have the same ones as yours. The z32 TT (90-94) has the same injectors as the q45's (90-94). I've not really heard about the quality of Z1's injectors they sell as reconditioned units. Not sure on what they do compared to DeatschWerks though.




Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: Unnatural1 at 9:18 AM 11/15/2008

I spoke to DeatschWerks about what they do to recondition their injectors. The thoroughly clean them and check their coils for proper resistance. Then they flow test them. I don't know what more you can really do to maintain quality when dealing with reconditioned parts. So far so good though.

What year was your VH? I have a 94 Q45 and originally bought Phase I (early style) injectors. It turns out that I have Phase II injectors which Nissan started switching to midway through the 94 model year. So, be sure to check the injector's plug before you order anything.

~Brendan



Post Title: Re: (Unnatural1)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 5:40 PM 11/15/2008

Any chance you still have those Phase I injectors?? Wanna sell them at a discounted price? hmm? haha



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: Unnatural1 at 10:51 PM 11/16/2008

Took the old crappy ones out that i thought were fubar.

Here is a comparison between the #4 cyl. injector and the Deatschwerks Injector...

I think what happened is that the pintle cap cracked or something, causing the fuel to not be vaporized or whatever in the air properly... maybe getting on the pintle cap and burning? Causing it to melt like this? Idk, it's weird.

vv Here's a picture vv

But anyways. I put the two new injectors in along with new plugs on those cylinders and holy **** what do ya know, it fixes ALL of my problems. It sounds WAY different now and actually pulls like it should, like a bat outta hell; it's a beast! The smell of burning rubber is the greatest smell ever. Especially when it comes with the sound this engine makes.

I can't wait for the summer drift events to start once school is out for the summer and i can finally get on the track as a driver.... Hot damn its gonna be fun!

I'll try and get up a sound clip or something like a dumb ricer flyby or whatever.

Psyched i am.. for sure.



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: John Dixon at 3:28 AM 11/25/2008

Oh yeah. Definitely a relief!
They were $79 each from Deatschwerks and i got free shipping when i told them i'm a NICOclub member over the phone.

Quote, originally posted by alexanderig »

nice build very nice

Thanks man



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: Unnatural1 at 2:44 PM 11/25/2008

~Brendan



Post Title:
Posted by: jace111 at 3:32 PM 12/2/2008

Quote, originally posted by jace111 »

damn. great thread. im sure your curious as to what it will run in the quarter?

Eh, not super curious. Thats not really what my intensions for the car are. But yeah, it would be nice to know some day.



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: Kalypso at 7:17 PM 12/5/2008

over in the vh45 forum...believe it

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zer...age=3




Post Title: Re: (Kalypso123)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 11:07 AM 12/10/2008

not according to this page:
http://forums.nicoclub.com/zeromain?id=173

haha. crazy you have a beautiful build btw



Post Title: Re: (Kalypso123)
Posted by: gtrob at 2:58 AM 12/11/2008

I know I'm late but congrats on getting it running.



Post Title: Re: (skeil)
Posted by: district_drftr at 4:23 PM 1/19/2009

Anyways. I just ordered some knock sensors and an adjustable FPR as in the hurry to get it done i forgot i had put a walbro in and its been running unregulated. So hopefully that will cure my misfiring issues at 2500rpm and under i'm still having. Yeah its dumb to run it on a stock fpr. But i was in a hurry lol.

Anyways, Thanks everyone!

I'll try to update with progress pictures of the install on those knock sensors.

I ordered 350z knock sensors as they are the same. You just need to solder on new connectors from a ka24de injector harness and shave part of the knock sensor. I'll be sure to take pics.

Quote, originally posted by 92SR20S13 »

How stiff are all you're mounts, Everything looks like it barrrely fits....Do you have problems with ****t rubbing at all?

They are very stiff. Its sitting on hockey pucks which is almost solid mounts.

I havent had much issues with anything rubbing. And there is 1/4 inch between the frame rail and the steering column. Hell my Oil filter is less than a quarter inch away from the frame rail.

Quote, originally posted by district_drftr »

man your projects alot simular to mine. i have a s14 and i bought a whole q45 off a guy for 300 dollars. i also have stances and a few other mods on it. my builds been under way for 2 months now so u might be getting some questions form me lol

I'd be happy to help. Its a sweet swap.

Post Title:
Posted by: slacker_221 at 5:34 PM 1/27/2009

Quote, originally posted by MN240SXDriv3r »

Amazing build man. Simply amazing. I noticed you were in Golden Valley, I live in Fargo, ND at the moment for school, but maybe one day that I come down to the cities, I could check this out in person. Update us some more! Also do you know of any other 240's around that are pretty cheap?

Possibly. And dude, you can find a 240 almost anywhere. Check Craigslist, AutoTrader, Local forums.. (D-Town, MNSC.net, etc.) 240's are almost always cheap, it's just not cheap to fix them or do anything to them.

Quote, originally posted by drifterdevin »

I’m going to do the same swap as you, only I paid only $100 for the infinity Q45 with only 133,000 miles on it. But what I would like to know is how dose the car handles with that V8 in it? Is there much of a weight difference

Well, it's comparible to an RB swap. It's quite a bit more weight. The block itself probably weighs the same as an SR hooked up to a tranny with everything attached.. At least somewhere around there. I never really drove it without the v8 in it.. so it's hard to tell. I let my buddy play around in it and he says its not that bad compared to his SR. But like Carl said. Get some decent suspension, tweak it and you will be fine.

Quote, originally posted by dsc4130 »

i have a question, im really thinking about ditching my rb20 and doing a vh45 swap. i like the idea of having the same power i have now, but the motor be n/a stock. how did you guys handle the speedo?

Mine works fine.. Well some of the time. I have a bad speed sensor i'm pretty sure. So it works on and off. Not sure if its the actual signal going to the speedo or that the signal is wrong.. I havent really cared enough to figure that out yet. I'm still trying to get it to run decently and not misfire every day haha. Oh what the lack of funds will do to a project...



Post Title: Re: My rediculous project... (WARNING 56k) **UPDATED** (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: Schmitz_7 at 10:25 AM 2/20/2009

Also, I noticed your hood isnt cut up, did I miss something? How is your hood clearing?

Any regrets, or things you'd do differently? I've sourced my motor and trans, getting ready to pull the trigger on this...

Thanks
-Max



Post Title: Re: (DriftingisLame)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 9:18 AM 2/27/2009

Yeah man, it's fine. The VH is so smooth if it's running right you wont even feel it. I Daily drive mine every day to school and back. Take it on 600 mile trips to my home in MN and back.

I have my engine mounted SUPER low. It's only 1/4 inch above my steering rack and all i have to do is prop up the back of the hood a little bit and it will close, just barely touching the plenum. But consequently my oil pan hangs really low.. It's up to you. Make your own mounts and have it low like me or mount it higher, OR buy the mazworx mounts.

Nope, no regrets. Well maybe the amount of time i spent doing it rather than hanging out with my girlfriend and friends... but other than that no haha. Just make sure you've got good injectors, good MAF, and good compression. Also dont forget to check your timing chain guides!!!



Post Title:
Posted by: DriftingisLame at 1:14 PM 2/27/2009

I'm really glad to hear I can keep my hood somewhat intact, my car doesnt sit incredibly low. I'm not very worried about bottoming out.

Thankfully things didnt work out with my ex girlfriend so I should have minimal distractions LOL.

Thanks for the prompt answers, I'll update you once I have the motor!



Post Title:
Posted by: bfreehill at 9:34 AM 3/1/2009

You've done the swap the closest to the way I'm going with it and I wanted to ask a few questions. Fuel system: What pump did you use and did you use the Q's fuel pump control unit and since it's cheaper do you think the walboro would work. What regulator did you use. and on the emissions and idle quality stuff did you use the KA's stuff or the VH's?



Post Title: Re: (EMK)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 6:59 PM 3/27/2009

I'm using a walbro 255 for a fuel pump. Nope, don't need the fuel pump control unit.

I was running it without an adjustable fpr for a while... but right now i'm running just a megan adjustable fpr. Got it from FRSport. It's working fine as far as i can tell.

As far as emissions stuff goes. I dont have any. Took out all the egr lines, took a steel plate and bolted it to where the egr solenoid would go using a new oem gasket inbetween.

It idle's fine. Sometimes when its cold and i start it it likes to rev up and down for a little bit for some reason... havent quite figured that one out yet.
But other than that it idles at a smooth 800rpm.

I believe Carl on here kept all of his egr stuff. I just figured the hell with it and pulled it all out.



Post Title:
Posted by: Carl H at 9:44 PM 3/27/2009

I think the highest i got was like 23mpg on the way to Minneapolis from Rapid City.

Just recently i got 19 or 20 on the way back from Minneapolis on a different occasion.

In town it sucks... or if your beating on it. haha



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: hannibal at 9:53 PM 3/28/2009

Quote, originally posted by hannibal »

Oops. Must have had you confused with someone else

It's cool, no worries.

Quote, originally posted by drkidd22 »

I have to give you +++++ on this. I think I'm going to get fired from work today cuz I have not done s*** during the morning because of reading every single post of this F**ng Great build. First of all you the man because you didn't give up on you goal when you was ripped with the clip with the SR. I had a simillar problem to your and almost gave up on my car build up, but my mom told me that I had to finish what I started and not to give up on it and she's not even a car girl. So great Job!. I'm going on my third year on my '89 240sx SR20DET build and all I need right now is to get it painted. And also I like that everything was done by you, just like I have done with my car, from putting the engine in to wiring the freaking thing up, not like other people that take it to a shop and have someone else do it for them then they say, oh look what I built.

Thanks, glad i was able to get you fired haha. But seriously, dont give up. It'll be worth it.

So here's an update. Some of these things i did a few months ago.

Knock sensors! These are from a 350z which are WAY cheaper than buying q45 knock sensors. I think they were like 35 bucks each or something like that. Anyways, get a pigtail from a KA injector harness and then solder them in place of the q45 knock sensor connectors.

Here's the knock sensors i received.

New knock sensor on the right, old on the left. Notice the difference in plugs.

Injector harness pigtails needed to be soldered.

You also have to cut one of the notches off the Z's knock sensors in order for the plug to fit. Once you do that it snaps right on.

Believe it or not, i was able to get both knock sensors replaced without removing the coolant y-connector.

On ething i noteced though is that the 350z knock sensor diagram shows that bothe pins are used. But i figured out one just needs to be grounded. I think i just put a crimp connector on the right pin (when looking at the knock sensor directly) and then twisted it and grounded it with the bolt that secures the knock sensor to the block. No problems thus far. Knock sensor code went away.

Plenum!!

So i had an extra plenum lying around and decided to clean it. Took it to a place to get it cleaned and they said they couldn't boil it because it was aluminum. So they put it in this tank that shot hot soapy water everywhere... Needless to say it didnt do much at all. Was kinda pissed. I could do more with acetone and a toothbrush when i brought it back to my house.

Anyways, told my buddy about it and got hooked me up with some free bead blasting!

Here's some pics after i painted the runners and plenum so they dont corrode.

Also finally got an adjustable FPR. Tried out the megan one. Got it from FRsport. It's working pretty well so far from what i can tell.

Also got a set of 8 used injectors for a pretty awesome price. Helped figure out my stumbling problems and what not. Although i know they wont last forever..

Thats all that i can think of right now. Other than that i'm having big cooling problems. My system isn't pressurizing for some reason. Going to bleed the system, replace thermostat, caps, and possibly get a new water pump and another new/different radiator if nothing else seems to be working.



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: RY2K at 9:51 PM 5/12/2009

Quote, originally posted by jbrobatl »

Do you run a front strut bar or does it not fit with that engine?

Doesn't fit so i would like to make a custom one myself. But it seems once i finally get something fixed or am about to make something better. Something's gotta break on me.... My latest catastrophe???

Broken transmission and clutch. AND flywheel spacer.

SO i was merging slowly onto the interstate in 5th gear and all of a sudden it sound like my transmission popped out of gear and made the most horrid grinding noise in the world. Long story short i towed it back to my house with my house with my room mates truck. I finally got around to tearing it apart to find out what happened.

Here are carnage pictures. (Sorry for them all being crapy cell phone pics, couldn't find my better camera)

Engine pulled.

Clutch disc's teeth on my ACT 6 puck unsprung completely stripped off...

This is what it SHOULD look like. (minus the busted out spring up top, was from my first RPS clutch that blew up on me)

Hard to see but transmission splines are messed too. Some actually look to be BENT

And my hacked up flywheel spacer.

The story with the spacer is that i didnt have a pilot bearing in. Basically it was something i did two summers ago. When i was putting this thing together with the original RPS clutch i had, i tried bolting the transmission up and it wouldn't go on using the pilot bearing supplied by RPS. It wouldn't go on all the way. Took it back apart and found the pilot bearing was hitting part of the transmission input shaft where the spline starts after the tip for the pilot bearing. So i think what happened was i took out the pilot bearing and never used it. I remember a friend telling me he never had one in his car either and it was fine. So i wasn't TOO worried about it at the time. I think i figured the difference was that i was using an N/A z32 transmission instead of the turbo one which is what the adaptor plate setup was designed for. (i remember reading the were identical besides their clutches) Anyways thinking back on it now i was really dumb about that and in too much of a hurry and paying for it in the end. As you can see the inside of the spacer is completely hacked... and i'm not sure but no pilot bearing might have been a part of it.

Also, i check online. The part number of my ACT disc is 6240006. Which is the correct part number for my application. 90-96 300zx Non-Turbo. It also happens to be by coincidence the same part number for the 79-83 Turbo 300xz. But thats just a clarification that i wasnt using an incorrect disc..

And now i dont know about you guys but i've NEVER seen anything like this happening. Even daily driving it i've seen the metal twist apart on the clutch disc from using an unsprung but never the splines...

Pretty sure a combination of a welded diff, 1-piece driveshaft, unsprung clutch, and nearly solid engine mounts combined with it being daily driven had a part in this...

Modified by CrazyTrance at 11:51 AM 7/4/2009



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: Bart at 8:13 PM 7/4/2009

solid engine mounts and welded diff arnt the culprit, the lack of the bushing was.



Post Title: Re: (Carl H)
Posted by: SuperHatch at 3:30 PM 7/6/2009

The pilot bearing has nothing to do with locating the trans, the dowel pins do that job, and that's why their location is so critical in designing a PROPER adapter plate.

As an FYI, I can name 4 OEMs who do not use pilot bushings/bearings. The input shaft is free floating in the crank. They are not a completely necessary item, just a really good idea and they form a more stable rotating assembly. The higher quality OEMs use them.

A good rule of thumb... If the car had one OEM, use it.



Post Title:
Posted by: Carl H at 4:46 PM 7/6/2009

as for the bushing/bearing bit goes chances are that those makes have the input shaft od machined into the id of the crank for an almost bushing like fit.



Post Title:
Posted by: z_roots at 2:11 AM 7/7/2009

You're a brave one taking on this swap, and that's too bad about the hard lesson learned

Keep us updated



Post Title: Re: (SuperHatch)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 7:38 AM 7/7/2009

Yeah that is a very good rule of Thumb So i'm going to try and bore it out to re-fit a roller pilot bearing in there. I keep wondering if it was a manufacturing defect or something. Because honestly i've never seen that happen. I've seen it stist the metal apart in between the spline and the pads so that makes me wonder why the splines gave out as i'm positive i greased the spline when i re-installed it.

Quote, originally posted by Carl H »

excuse me then, what i meant to say is it locates the input shaft and keeps it square... as for the bushing/bearing bit goes chances are that those makes have the input shaft od machined into the id of the crank for an almost bushing like fit.

Thats a reason i wasnt so worried about not using a pilot bearing. I thought the flywheel spacer fit perfectly around the input shaft at the far end of the spacer and acted as sort of a pilot bearing itself. Guess not.

Modified by CrazyTrance at 7:54 AM 7/7/2009



Post Title: Re: (SuperHatch)
Posted by: dsc4130 at 12:34 AM 7/8/2009

I have honestly never seen that happen either. Usually if the torque is sufficient to strip the splines, the input shaft would simply break.

Either you got an incorrectly marked disk (right part number/wrong part) or it was simply machined wrong. While I agree that all the solid driveline parts put additional stress on the clutch, it's not enough to do that.

My first thought looking at those pictures was that you put the wrong clutch disk on, but you said you verified the part number so that only leaves MFR. defect.



Post Title:
Posted by: Carl H at 7:48 AM 7/8/2009

Can you explain this wobbling?

There should be less than .002" clearance between the splined mating surfaces if they are mating and manufactured correctly.

Or do you mean the end of the input shaft where it should have been supported by the crank? I can understand your thought here, but if the clutch clamed down while the input shaft was off center, the splines would still be fully engaged, however the clutch disk itself would be distorted lightly like a potatoe chip... it still wouldn't cause that kind of spline damage.




Post Title: Re: (SuperHatch)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 4:31 PM 7/8/2009

I understand what you're picturing, I think, but when the disk is clamped down the crankshaft, flywheel, clutch, pp, input shaft, are all spinning at exactly the same RPM. It would but spinning off center, but the orientation of the input shaft, disk, etc. all stays the same until the clutch pedal is depressed again. The stress would be in the distortion of the disk face and on the input shaft bearings.



Post Title:
Posted by: Carl H at 5:53 PM 7/8/2009

I'd agree with you for the most part...but that really can't be applied to this forum!



Post Title:
Posted by: T45 at 4:45 AM 7/11/2009

I am still baffled by the pilot bearing theory. What's the point? To me it's just a part that will fail way before it's time. It's only (barely) useful at idle or when clutch is depressed, and even then would you really want an unsealed, unlubricated bearing spinning at 1-7k rpms?

Bushings work perfectly for thier purpose, no need to upgrade them. They are made from a softer material than the steel shaft for a reason. They wear at the perfect rate and to me I see no need to upgrade to an inferior bearing. Bearings have their place, but to me, in the end of a crank to exposed clutch dust and heat is not one of them.



Post Title: Re: (T45)
Posted by: volcomskater773 at 9:29 PM 7/20/2009

Thats the way to do it. Good luck on your project. Hope it goes smoother than mine lol



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 3:58 PM 10/5/2009

So this summer i didn't get squat done as i was working my a** off djing and working on the base out here along with having fun with the girlfriend.

Anyways, i also moved just recently so here's a few pictures for the hell of it.

Here it is in it's new home, much bigger garage.

One thing i did before i made the move was to fix one of my frame rails...rust.
Made this snazzy little sleeve.

SO. recently i just purchased a ton of parts to get this thing moving again.

Pics of said parts.

Ended up going with a lightweight flywheel from XTD. (12.5 lbs vs. i think double that stock = WEEEEEE)
Those shirts are to help support a local crew here in MN.

Also got myself a new toy. Helped me out with re-boring my flywheel spacer also. More on that later.

There are a lot more parts in the mail that i havent received quite yet.

Mazworx power steering line conversion (yay for PS!)
ACT 6 puck unprung clutch kit
Megan Racing Tension rods
Innovative LC-1 with XD-16 gauge
and most importantly a z32 Turbo trans with less than 40k miles on it.
ECU tuned by mr. Carl here on NICO.

So this flywheel spacer thing. You've seen pictures of it all mangled and what not. I was talking to my boss out on base and he hooked me up proper with a buddy of his thats got a little shop of his own.

Making sure it's on the lathe nice and true.

Ready for destruction. Homie Darren in the background.

The result. If you're wondering what that step is in there it's so the bushing doesn't fall through to the other side.

Here it is sitting on the back of the flywheel. Had to make sure it fits in the one i got haha.

Now that we bored it out it is much larger than the bore to accept the OEM pilot bearing. What to do?

MAKE ONE

Went to the machine shop here in Rapid and bought some bearing bronze. 9 something a pound. Bought plenty in case we mess up lol.
Outside diameter will be around 23. something mm (cant remember) But inside diameter will be bored to the OEM pilot bearing specs. Which is around .626" or .629" which is just under 16mm.

Plan on getting that done sometime this weekend hopefully.

Oil Pan

I'm sick and tired of bashing my oilpan on stuff around town. I've done it twice in less than a year... and NO i will not raise the car lol. I actually want to go lower..

Here's a pic of what i'm working with.

My plan?

Shorten it and add extensions off the side with baffles/trap doors. If you guys have ANY input here at all please let me know as i have never done this but i've ot a rough idea on what to do...

First cut

Final cuts

As you can see this thing came stock with a windage tray already in the pan. Along with another one bolted to the underside of the block. (cool)

I'm going to try and keep that there while raising the bottom of the pan. But as you can see in the mext picture i've also got to cut and re-weld the pickup tube in a higher location. I'm thinking about 10-15mm of clearance between the pan will be about right. (Any input here??)

You can also see where i plan to ad dthe extensions off the side..

So i bolted the cut up pan to the engine to see how everything sat...

This last picture is of it with the engine sitting in the bay so i can see how low it's still hanging below the cross member. To me it looks to be about flush with it or it just slightly hangs below the cross member.

PS: I took ALOT of pictures with the pan sitting on the engine this way as i'm sure it could help a few people out. I have yet to see a picture with the oil pan cut away and bolted to the engine on here.. So if anyone wants measurements or a different perspective chime in now while i've still got it like this.

I'm thinking about putting some spacers in my engine mounts to raise the engine up a little bit as it will help with clearance of the pan, exhaust, and PS pump. Only issue is that its going to hit the hood more......

SO there you have it. I will probably be posting quite a bit more pictures as stuff gets done and parts come in as i REALLY want to get this thing running soon. Want to tear up the street one more time before winter fully hits! (Even though it just snowed today lol) But i'm banking on one more dry week haha.

Modified by CrazyTrance at 4:04 PM 10/5/2009

Modified by CrazyTrance at 4:16 PM 10/5/2009



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: volcomskater773 at 2:17 AM 10/6/2009

And with raising the engine and spacing the hood up. It's already spaced up pretty far. I think i'm going to buy a different hood that provides more clearance eventually.. We'll see how much i can get away with as it already rubs on the hood after i've cut a bunch of bracing out already.



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: volcomskater773 at 4:41 PM 10/6/2009

This is the best option, but unfortunately i am not baller enough to fork out that kind of money for such a setup. Especially considering the amount of money i have just spent.

I've been talking to a buddy about making a completely new aluminum pan from scratch as i might be able to get the materials for super cheap and hooked up with some welding.. Not sure what i'm going to do yet. Decisions decisions.



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 5:21 PM 10/7/2009

Some PS stuff from mazworx. (smiley face unintentional)
Started putting it on the car yesterday. Had to notch the hell out of my tension rod bracket But i'll box that in later.

Finally man'd up and bought a wideband..

Trans!

A little dirty but nothing a pressure washer cant fix.
Awesome shippers broke the reverse and neutral switches on it.
But it came with a new starter and supposedly has under 40k on the trans. so i'm pretty stoked about it.



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: gs14racer at 6:19 AM 10/8/2009

go to the innovative forums and search for lc1 problems and see, these things are aparently so sensitive to electrical noise in the car, some people resorted to run a seperate battery to power them.

http://www.innovatemotorsports...x.php

After trying to get it to work consistently for TWO weeks, i gave up on it bought an aem uego, first try worked and connected to the lap top with out any problems.

good luck!!!



Post Title: Re: (gs14racer)
Posted by: White Comet at 7:35 AM 10/8/2009

Hmmm.... second person to tell me this.. Damnit i guess we'll see how it works. Otherwise i guess its buy a different one time. Thanks for the info though Jerry!

Quote, originally posted by White Comet »

looking good and i like the oil pan plan but would making it out of alum maybe be a bad idea? if it does hit something, the alum won't stand up to it

The plan is to raise it up enough to where it cant hit anything. But i also want to make a skid plate. And this thing is RAPIDLY turning into a track-only car with the occasional terror run around town hehe.

Small update before i go to bed.. Just got done making this thing with Gunar.

OEM bushing on left.. Custom bushing on right. Notice how much larger it is... yeah, that flywheel spacer was MESSED up.

In action..

Also... just received clutch kit in the mail today so HOPEFULLY i can get this thing rolling soon. Dont think i'll be able to work on it for at least a week though.. school is KILLING me right now.



Post Title:
Posted by: 1WheelWonder at 4:37 AM 10/14/2009

Which ps pump will you be running with the mazworx lines and such? The more I drive mine the more I wish I had ps.



Post Title: Re: (1WheelWonder)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 6:14 AM 10/14/2009

1. Are these fittings even going to hold the pressure? As some have mentioned these arent PS fittings.. I'm new to these AN fittings... so any input here would be awesome.

2. The fitting i'm assuming i'm supposed to use for the pump side of the high pressure line bottoms out before it even gets close to their "supplied seal".... wtf.

Jerry do you have any info on this?



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 3:45 PM 10/19/2009

Now i've read the couple threads that talk about doing this conversion and i'm not sure whether I should use the 96 lower seals on the 92 runners (as their outer diameter is a little smaller) or if i should use the 92 seals as you guys were thinking that by lowering the rail down it will seal fine. Has anyone had any issues doing this?



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 7:49 AM 10/20/2009

Use the old style lower seals, not the new ones. Use two thin washers between the rails and lower runners at the mounting points instead of the thick black isolator. That's all it takes...



Post Title: Re: (SuperHatch)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 9:33 AM 10/20/2009

I have subscribed.



Post Title: Re: (justinedible4)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 6:47 PM 11/4/2009

Slow progress is going on... managed to clear the bay of most things. Forgot how big of a pain it is to get the main harness out of there with those fuse blocks.

Got it all degreased, now just need to wipe everything down with some lacquer thinner and scuff it all up. Along with some other misc. things..

Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 8:31 PM 11/11/2009

Also got the bay all stitch welded up.

Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: tmorgan4 at 10:11 PM 11/11/2009

Just an engine swap to start...and then it all goes downhill. Unfortunately I had problems with my Innovative LC-1 (purchased brand new) as well. Sometimes it would work...somtimes it just sits at 22.4 AFR. I did notice a few of the wires being connected to the O2 poorly though so there's a good chance that's my problem. Might as well run it if you've already got it.



Post Title: Re: (tmorgan4)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 10:45 PM 11/11/2009

Dangit... I hope i dont have problems with mine.. Maybe i'll try and put some extra shielding around the wires or something to help with this issue. Seems like everyone i've talked to that has done a VH swap says thumbs down to innovate. I was under the impression they were the best.



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: tmorgan4 at 12:02 AM 11/12/2009

Quote, originally posted by tmorgan4 »

Sometimes it would work...somtimes it just sits at 22.4 AFR.

Exact problem i had with mine, i messed with it long enough for me not to trust whatever readings i got out of it.

I dont know if i posted before, but i ended up with the aem uego, it still plugs into a lap top for dataloging and worked fine from start up, and continues to work fine.

I hope you have better luck than me .




Post Title: Re: (gs14racer)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 8:59 AM 11/12/2009

Some people are getting the Error code 8 or something like that which is basically the same as it being crazy lean. Some people were getting it to work by doing a bunch of free-air calibrations, and by a bunch i mean from 6 or 7 up to 20 in a row..

Here's the link i was reading.
http://www.innovatemotorsports...=4286

Is that the problem you guys were seeing? I only read basically the first and last page..



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 11:58 PM 11/14/2009

Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: justinedible4 at 12:01 AM 11/15/2009

Anyways here's what i've got so far..

Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: justinedible4 at 10:21 AM 11/17/2009

Quote, originally posted by CrazyTrance »

No flake. It's BMW Alpine White III with gold pearl in the clear coat. My personal touch.

WOW! It looks so yummy. Are you going to paint the whole car, and if so, what color?



Post Title: Re: (justinedible4)
Posted by: CrazyTrance at 1:05 PM 11/17/2009

If anyone has ideas or criticism about that oil pan design thus far please pitch in. I'm in unknown waters with this and only going off designs i've been reading about for a while.

My plan so far is to put trap doors where the OEM pan walls used to be. And i'll only have the trap doors as high as the stock windage tray. ABove that will be a piece of steel with a couple large holes drilled into it similar to the extensions on the stock pan, although these were on a much smaller scale without trap doors.



Post Title: Re: (CrazyTrance)
Posted by: mattblancarte at 2:35 PM 11/18/2009

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